'82 Climate Control

[veniz23]

1982 full-size, 302w, 4bbl carb. When the engine is under load(low-vacuum) the A/C switches to the floor vents(which are the default vents I assume) instead of staying on the dash vents. One of my problems I assume is that the vacuum reservoir is not hooked up correctly. I guess it is the reservoir(little black ball mounted on pass. side fender well that has 1 hose coming out of it). There is a black plastic valvle mounted to firewall(pass. side) that has 3 vacuum outlets. Here is a little drawing. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction. I have been trying to figure this out forever and no one seems to know the answer.

 

[Seabronc]

That block is supposed to be connected as shown. The third connection is supposed to go to the Transmission. You might try putting in a larger vacuum reservoir also.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Shadow_D]

First off Welcome to the Bronco Zone!

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You may have a bad vacuum reservoir, i.e. cracked or plugged on the inside.

I would go with seabronc's suggestion and get a bigger one. If that doesn't work you could have a bad line somewhere.

You need to search for any hiss sound coming from under the hood when the truck is running. I know from experience this is not as easy as it sounds but with some patiences & a stethoscope you should be able to find the hiss and fix the problem.

 

[Lou85bronco]

another suggestion for the vaccuum, if you can't hear the sound. Take a small torch, the little green propane ones and turning it on low.. with the engine running run the unlight torch along the vacuum lines if the engine picks up RPM's then there is a spot where the gas is getting into the system.. a good possible point for a leak... just be sure not to smoke or be around a flame when attempting. Ive done it a few times and found quite a few leaks before of previous vac systems...

 

[Seabronc]

Lou85bronco's suggestion is a good one for finding leaks.

The resevoir needs to be connected to the transmission so the vacuum kickdown doesn't drag the system down too much. They make a vacuum resevoir that looks like a large tin can, that's because it is a tin can :lol: . The problem with them is that they rust out.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Lou85bronco]

a 4 dollar bottle of liquid electrical tape does wonders also.. I put it around all my vac fittings.. also coat the bean can..err..resevoir (it paints on) with liquid electrical tape.. looks factory.. prevents all rust. I tried it and put it in a 200hour salt water test.. not a bit of rust to be found (I love the advantages of being able to make custom parts and testing them at my job) / what they dont know if they fuel my addiction "yeah this part is for a forklift that is out of date..im just testing it..." :-"

 

[Seabronc]

Forget what I just said. I had my application in mind. The actual reason for the resevoir in your system is to provide a vacuum boost for the AC. There should be a connection from the block to the plastic connector under the hood. The line to the resevoir should have a T in it which connects the AC vacuum feed. So the complete connection is a line to main vacuum, a line to the transmission, a line to the resevoir with a T in the middle where the AC vacuum should connect. The actual purpose of the resevoir is to provide the vacuum boost at that point. The AC should be connected at this point not to the tap on the manifold.

You probably could eliminate the transmission from the connections as long as it is connected to main vacuum someplace else and use that connection for the AC instead of a T.

Good luck,

>-

 

[veniz23]

That little plastic thing that has three connections is located at the firewall on the passenger side and has three outlets. The line I have going from that plastic thing to the manifold is T'd off and also goes to the transmission. The middle outlet is plugged so nothing is hooked to that and the last outlet is hooked up to the little actuator thing that changes the vents for the climate control. The reservoir is'nt hooked up to anything right now. I tried hooking it up to that middle outlet on the plastic thing that is plugged right now, and that didn't work. I just need to know where to hook what.....The only other vacuum lines I am using are from the carb and they go to the brake booster, and the vacuum advance on the distributor. Also , I don't have any EGR.

Thanks for the help guys!!! B)

 

[veniz23]

I was confused but I think I know what you are talking about now, SeaBronc. Your saying that the line that I have going to the manifold should be hooked up to a T connector, which connects the manifold,reservoir,and the plastic thing with 3 outlets? Then hook one of the other hoses coming from another outlet on the plastic connectore with 3 outlets to the Vent valve thing on the far right of my picture? If I do this there is still going to be a third outlet that isn't being used? Does that sound right?

Peace

 

[Seabronc]

Sorry about the confusion. The plastic connector on the passenger firewall normally has three lines connected to it.

1. One line to main vacuum at the intake manafold.

2. One line to the transmission.

3. One line to the vacuum reservoir. This line has a T to the AC control.

Ths one thing I'm not sure of, and am checking on, is if there should also be a check valve in the line from the T to the AC control. I'll try to get back to you on that later today.

Keep in mind the firewall unit may be leaking and the reservoir may also be bad.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Seabronc]

>- Ok here it is. I went to my local friendly auto recycler and took some pictures of the stock installation h34r: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .

Instead of a T you need a check valve that is sort of T shaped, picture attached. I had two of them in the garage so, without my wifes knowledge :-" , I put them on the sofa and took this picture B) .

The stock installation is as I stated in the last post with the exception of the T.

You could actually eliminate the thing on the firewall since your transmission is already T'd from the manafold main vacuum port. I'm going to try to post three pictures;

1. The check valve

2. Two shots under the hood of a stock installation.

Ok looks like I'll have to post them one at a time.

 

[Seabronc]

Next picture

 

[Seabronc]

Check valve

 

[Seabronc]

If you want, PM me with an address an I'll send one out to you.

Good luck,

>-

 

[veniz23]

Thanks for all of the trouble you went through. Those pictures help out allot. I am going to try and hook it up like the pictures and see what happens. I guess just by-pass the 3 outlet connectore and use a check valve to connec the manifold vacuum to the A/C control and the vacuum canister. Awesome your a good man!!! Especially for sneaking the pictures and risking getting caught by the wife. Ill post update.

 

[Guest]

I tried hooking the reservoir up to the T , which connects the manifold and the A/C control thing. It is still changing vents when motor is under load. Could you tell me where each of the lines in your pictures go to. The pictures dont show where the two lines on the right of the connector go. Does one go to the Tranny and the other goes to the intake manifold? I see the one in the picture on the far left that goes to the reservoir and A/C control. Where do the other 2 go? Thanks.

 

[veniz23]

That was me that posted that last question, Seabronc. I forgot to login.

 

[Seabronc]

Yes one goes to the intake manafold, one goes to the transmission and the other goes to what looks like a T. However a strait T WILL NOT work. It must be a check valve as shown in the other picture on my wife's sofa :lol: . If you don't have one of those, PM me with an address and I'll mail you one.

Make sure your vacuum reservoir is good and that the block on the firewall is good with no cracks.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Seabronc]

Also, note the arrangement on the check valve. The hose comming out of the bottom goes to the firewall block. On the top, one goes to the AC Control and one goes to the Vacuum Reservoir.

If that doesn't work, get a vacuum gague and check your vacuum. Your system shold have 15 to 20 inches at warm idle. If not, you have a problem someplace and we get back to what Lou85bronco suggested. That being using an unlit propane torch with the valve cracked and move it around your engine while running. If the engine speeds up you have a leak where the nozzle is pointing.

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