4x4 problems

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BroncoPhilly

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I am new to this site i just bought a 1988 full size bronco with the 302 for 600 and it had a few problems (windows didn't work, 4x4 doesn't work, tires were terrible, and the lens on the turn signal was broken). I have everything fixed except the 4x4 and i have it narrowed down to the t case motor and the electrical switch. I am having problems locating where the switch is at and would like the help where it is at. Also i put new tires on and to save gas i downsized from what was on it back to the p235/75r15 stock and the speedometer is off i know the sensor is on the transfer case but i need to know how to reset it.

 
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miesk5

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yo Philly,

WELCOME!

Last time I was in South Philly, my 96 barely fit on a side street!

Take time to read through this by Ford;

Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for Bronco, F Series & Ranger (COMPLETE); Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting & Hub Operation; same for 87-96; exc for that in 87; power from Fuse 6 (15 amp) to "ELECT SHIFT CONTROL MOD" WHT-PPL and CB 12 (30amp) to "ELECT SHIFT CONTROL MOD" BLK-WHT; SEE A7 and A8 in the 4x4 diagram, it shows those two wires BLK-WHT as BK/W from SHIFT MODULE to P1 BATTY and and WHT-PPL as W/P to P2 Source: by Ford via Chilton

Check wiring colors to see if your 88 is same as the 87 or the later years. Then go to town on it.

1356 Electric Shift Wiring Diagram in an 87; Source: by Ford via miesk5 at broncolinks.com

Chassiswiring87-89Bronco.gif

1356 Electric Shift Motor Troubleshooting & Repair (travel stops)

Source: by Richard C (Bigric, Money Pit) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/4584/21843

If motor is shot;

1356 Electric Shift Motor Replacement in a 90 Source: by Casey.can.do at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

1356 Electric Shift Motor Connector, Missing Pins in a 95; "...I just went out and looked at mine. I have, at the Plug...10 wires total. Then, three of those wires go off to a seperate plug on the Tcase. The remaining 7 wires all go up in a bundle until they split and 4 go to the position selector, and three to the motor. So it looks to me like in Steves diagram, look in the lower right corner, you will see 10 numbered wires. #'s 1-3 are likely the ones that go to your motor. Check your wire colors. #'s 6-10 are position sensors, and 2 for the speed sensor, which are probably the ones that go into the tcase, so I would say you need those. wiring does not quite add up right, but the main point I think you need to check is that on your motor you got from JBG, at the connector, are there a total of 10 wires? If yes, then 3 of those will need to be spliced into your tcase 3 wires that you have..."

Source: by Shadofax (TheJuice, The Juice, Mark Z)

1356 Electric Shift Motor Connector, Missing Pins, Bronco & Ford; "...Carefully record wire pin positions. Using a suitable tool, release each sensor wire pin. NOTE: Some harnesses may have a center pin as shown in the sample graphic. If there is a center pin, it must also be transferred. Install wire pins in the replacement motor connector in the same position as in the original motor connector until they snap in place. Note that the sensor and harness wire colors must match. Verify pin placement, then replace red locking tab. This completes wire pin transfer. The white pins are the ones for the speed sensor that need to be transferred..."

Source: by CARDONE® cardone.com

============

Speedo as long as it isn't erratic,

have to replace gear in xfer case ext

Gear Change in a 90 (in Xfer Case Tail Housing) Source: by Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling) at SuperMotors.net

Gear Color Codes, 80 and up

100_3393.jpg

Source: by JBG via Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at SuperMotors.net

If needed, Cable Lubrication; This is for a Stang, but similar Cable & Speedometer Head "... Speedometers get into trouble when cables bind or magnetic heads cease due to the absence of lubrication. Like the humble car clock, speedometers need periodic maintenance, too. The spinning speedometer head needs occasional lubrication (speedometer-head lubricant). Pull the cluster out, disconnect the cable, and feed modest doses of lubricant into the head once a year. Don't overdo it. While you're at it, pull the speedometer cable out and bathe it in white grease and a low-viscosity engine oil. This combination will keep it happy for thousands of miles..." MIESK5 NOTE; Some Speedo ends (at Speedo) are held on by a plastic clip: place Index finger on Metal Tube & thumb on plastic ring flat surface; Press Flat Surface of clip & Pull Cable from Speedo (Ford calls the speedo end the Head; or screwed on:Turn the cable end counterclockwise to disconnect. You may need an open end wrench. This is by Chilton for an 85 Bronco; 1.Remove the instrument cluster as previously described. Remove the lens and the mask from the cluster. 3.Disconnect the speedometer cable. 4.Remove the speedometer attaching screws and remove the unit. To install: 5.Position the speedometer to the pack plate and install the two attaching screws. 6.Examine the square drive hole for sufficient lubrication. If required, apply a 3/16 inch dab of lubricant (B5AZ-19581-A or equivalent) in the drive hole. 7.Reconnect the speedometer cable. Total Cable replacement; 1.Reach up behind the cluster and disconnect the cable by depressing the quick disconnect tab and pulling the cable away. 2.Remove the cable from the casing. If the cable is broken, raise the vehicle on a hoist and disconnect the cable from the transmission. 3.Remove the cable from the casing. 4.To remove the casing from the vehicle, pull it through the floor pan. 5.To replace the cable, slide the new cable into the casing and connect it at the transmission. 6.Route the cable through the floor pan and position the grommet in its groove in the floor. 7.Push the cable onto the speedometer head..."

Source: by Jim SS at http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_1008_1968_ford_mustang_speedometer_cable_replacement/index.html

 

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BroncoPhilly

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The broncophilly comes from my name being philip and my parents called me that when I got the bronco. My uncle pointed out that I had the towing package and was wondering why they put the towing package on a 302. But I would like to thank you for the help

 

miesk5

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yo Phil!

ok...lol

I hear ya.

Back as far as 86, Ford had the towing package available as an option even in the 4.9, as well as the 5.0 and 5.8; in std, xlt and EB trim levels.

 

miesk5

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yo,

Sure! For over 2,000 pounds Gross Combined Weight Rating you need a frame-mounted weight distributing hitch; see this and more info in:

Trailer Towing Section of Owners Manual in an 88; w/the various engine/tranny & gear ratio combos.

Source: by Jem270 at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/442089\towing.jpg

GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating)

GCWR is the maximum combined weight of the towing vehicle (including passengers and cargo) and the loaded trailer. The GCWR is specified by the manufacturer to indicate the combined maximum loaded weight that the vehicle is designed to tow.

GL!

 
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BroncoPhilly

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can not find a weld on hitch receiver i dont want to drill through the frame and my father welded about 25% of the coleman generators frames so i know a pretty good welder

 

nelbur

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I doubt that the 75R15 is the stock wheel / tire combo. My '86 came with 29" 16s from the factory, which I upgraded to 31"s, which straightened out my speedo. Maybe you meant 16s instead of 15s?

As to towing, I guess you don't have the step, bumper? I have towed a boat and trailer which weighs about 4500# for 25 years with my step bumper. I'm sure this is above the rating but it looks plenty beefy to my eye.

 

miesk5

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yo

For weld-on call and look @ http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Specialty_Trailer_Hitches-sf-Heavy~Duty_Truck_Hitch.aspx

P235/75Rx15XL BSW all season were std on Custom XL 680a package & XLT 682a

P235/75Rx15XL RWL all terrain std on XLT 684a and EB & optionaol on Custom & XLT 682a

and 31x10.50C RWL all terrain were optional on all

Door Jamb Label (Certification Label, also referred to as the Patent Plate, Data Plate & the Warranty Plate) pic in an 88 showing 31x10.50C

door-sticker.jpg

Source: by Jem270 at SuperMotors.net

Build Sheet Information (Ford 999 Report); Ford's build sheet reply letter w/original build date, optional equipt., axle ratio, paint color, etc. in an 88 5.0

ford-build-letter.jpg

Source: by Jem270 at SuperMotors.net

Build Sheet Information (Ford 999 Report); replaces former "Ask Kate"; MIESK5 NOTE, suggest using Customer Relationship Center Phone Number 1-800-392-3673; Available 8:00a.m.-5:00p.m. Local Time, Monday-Friday or by mail @ Ford Motor Company Customer Relationship Center P.O. Box 6248 Dearborn, MI 48126

 
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BroncoPhilly

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thanks and the door jam says 75r15s when I bought it it had the 31/10.50s wish I would have stayed with that size now

 
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BroncoPhilly

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noticed the other day my muffler has bolt on brackets and someone also welded the brackets to the muffler which created a hole so my muffler has a hole in it i kinda just thought i was running straight pipe from the noise but is the hole hurting gas mileage

 

miesk5

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yo,

No affect on MPG

But I'd fix that asap so CO doesnt leak into cab area.

Walker has and still makes most of our Broncos exh sys incl the cats and hangers' sells thrpugh NAPA, Auto Zone etc.

88 Bronco 5.0:

12572.gif


 
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BroncoPhilly

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do not want to deal with fixing my 4x4 problem just gonna take it in if it's the motor how much will that cost and if it's the 4x4 module how much will that cost and I want including labor cost

 
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BroncoPhilly

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I am tired of lookin for the module how much will it cost to have that replaced and if it's the motor how much will that cost where I live there is a shop that is undercutting everyone because they quit from one place and started their own shop

 
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BroncoPhilly

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took it in this week and there was a wrong signal coming out of the module so he replaced that and that didnt fix my problem could this be the motor still or is it bad wiring

 

miesk5

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yo,

Since that shop told you it was a wrong signal coming out of the module & he replaced that and that didnt the problem, go back and tell him to read that Ford Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for Bronco, F Series & Ranger (COMPLETE); Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting & Hub Operation; same for 87-96; exc for that in 87; power from Fuse 6 (15 amp) to "ELECT SHIFT CONTROL MOD" WHT-PPL and CB 12 (30amp) to "ELECT SHIFT CONTROL MOD" BLK-WHT; SEE A7 and A8 in the 4x4 diagram, it shows those two wires BLK-WHT as BK/W from SHIFT MODULE to P1 BATTY and and WHT-PPL as W/P to P2 Source: by Ford via Chilton

Print ti ou;

then tell him to read page 9;

Nothing Happens (Dead System)

check the power sources, fuses and grounds

If these check out, you should run the shift control module self-test. Figure 22 shows the module with pigtail “A,” “B” and “C” attachments. The self-test button and self-test LED are located on the side of the shift control module.

The transmission sensor (automatic or manual) should be closed with the clutch in, or the automatic shift in neutral. The speed sensor should show 225-275 ohms with the vehicle stopped. Check at the module connection.

The BW 1356 Xfer Case has its own speed sensor in the tailhousing.

The speed sensor is important because the vehicle must be stopped for a shift into or out of 4L. The shift module won't make the shift if the vehicle is moving. Miesk5 Note Ford Part Number is 7f293 speed sensor.

etc. etc.

Drew has a pic of it and info;

"here is a pic I have with the speed sensor hole exposed, it's the one in the red circle, my problem is I broke the other wire (blue circle) that goes to the magnetic clutch and haven't figured out how im going to fix that yet

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i160/drinkbrew/truck/E4OD.jpg

here's a few pics of the transfercase speed sensor if it helps, not the best quality it was my iphone and a flash light:

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i160/drinkbrew/truck/1267164445.jpg

 

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