351W swap issues

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broncodawg

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I am still in the process of doing my 351W swap and I am having some issues. Can anyone give me some advice?

1. I bought a Summit Racing bracket racer harmonic balancer and a Super Kooler aluminum water pump. The new damper won't clear the bottom of the water pump. I had to reuse the stock damper and with all of my upgrades I wanted the stouter one.

2. My shorty header on the passenger side sits right on the frame rail, and is causing issues with my clutch linkage from my NP435.

3. My crank pulley is is rubbing on the water pump also. Do they make a smaller crank pulley? Won't this be the opposite of underdrive pulleys? or will underdrive pulleys be smaller than stock?

4. Can I notch the frame rail on the passender side to run the dual exhaust? Will this seriously affect the structural integrity of the vehicle?

5.My motor mount holes aren't lining up properly with the 351w. I thought they were identical to the 302?

If anyone can help I'd really appreciate it. I want to get it running again this weekend and I have all this detail stuff to figure ot.

I could have sworn the 351W was an almost identical engine to the 302 other than the deck height and would bolt right in.

 

yusuebronko2_86

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notch for the exhaust, box frame with 1/4" plate on both sides of the notch (on the open end of the rail of course). it's not expensive (like 40$) to get 351 mounts, best bet.

 
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broncodawg

broncodawg

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Thanks. I ordred a smaller damper from Tom's Bronco parts, which is where i got the water pump. They say this should solve my clearance issues on both the damper and the crank pulley. A friend of mine that works on the EDM machine here at our plant is fabricating a new bracket to relocate the clutch linkage and he says we can fix the motor mount issue also.

 
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broncodawg

broncodawg

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I'm still having issues with the clutch linkage being right on the collector for my drivers side shorty header. My buddy thinks I should swap in a hydraulic clutch set up. Anyone here ever done that with an NP435 on an EB? Anyone doen that at all? Help please. This is the only thing holding me back from getting it running again. Thanks

 

TX '73

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Can you remove the header - heat and bend the tubes toward the fender and reinstall? Or would we be talking about a MAJOR bend?

 
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broncodawg

broncodawg

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I've got shorty headers. (see pic) Can I really bend them, even with heat?

DSC00624.JPG

 
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i dont know if this will be of any help...

i installed a 351 w in my 72 sport the 351 and the 302 are the same as for bolt paterns.

1- if you use the 302 front timing chain cover & water pump it should eliminate your harmonic balencer isues..

as well as the isues with the power steering pump and alternator having a wider profile with the windsor front assy your power steering pump pully is verry close to your steering box and you will have to purchase a new radiator with the suply and return ports reversed.. useing the stock 302 front assy eliminates alot of issues and a trip to the nut house.

the motor mounts are the same on the w and 302.. if you have cammed your w you will need to use the 302 firing order..

i actualy made a rod for my clutch assy with a bend to go around my exaust it has 2 bends it is droped an inch from where it atatches to the pivot arm and then it is shaped like a bow with a threaded adjustment tube instead of the standerd slip tube with a lock nut... hope this might be of some help...

 
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broncodawg

broncodawg

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Thanks. That put me over the top. The clutch linkage was my last problem. i switched to the stock water pump/timing cover this past Sunday and put the damper and aluminum water pump on ebay. I appreciate the help.

 

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