351w Cranks But No Start

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Pezster

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I've previously rebuilt my fathers 351w Fuel Injection motor, because the Head Gasket was leaking. The truck has been sitting for about 2years till it was rebuilt. I have spark and I can smell gas. There was about an 1/4 tank of 2year old gas I've filled the tank to half way. Ive hooked up a light to test the fuel injectors there good. I tested the cylinder compression. Which reads,

Cyl1 - 130

Cyl2 - 140

Cyl3 - 135

Cyl4 - 135

Cyl5 - 145

Cyl6 - 145

Cyl7 - 145

Cyl8 - 140

Fuel Pressure - 36

I've also tested the fuel pressure with key on and off and that read 36. The entire top half of the engine is rebuilt, everything is stock. Possibly I'm missing a major vacuum hose or sensor somewhere but everything looks to be hooked up correctly. The engine spins and starts for only about 5seconds then dies, ive checked the timing probably over 10x's. I'm using this firing order and I had Cylinder top dead center. 1 - 5 - 4 - 2 - 6 - 3 - 7 - 8.

Any Ideas?

Q:What's the pressure with the engine running? Did you use rebuilt injectors or new ones, or the old ones? The distributor runs counter clock wise? Does it die all at once or is it more like it's running out of gas?

A:I didn't check the pressure with the engine running. I would imagine it being the same. The injectors are used, brother is a mechanic he cleaned them and put i guess the new orange caps on that are placed in the intake. Yes the distributor does run counter clock wise. The truck runs like garbage for the 5seconds or so that it does run, I need to have the throttle fully opened for it to start. I've tryed spraying starting fluid into the upper intake. Still samething.

I've replaced the Rotor and Cap. Ignition Control Module, Ignition Coil.

Q:Was the cam timed with the crank? If it's not a fuel issue then it sounds like a timing issue. There's no blockage on the exhaust? I'm just brainstorming here. The compression looks allright. You're obviously getting spark because the engine is trying to run but something is breaking the cycle. It's either fuel or timing.

A:Well I'm going to rule out the fuel because I can hear the fuel pump kick on and like I said I've tested the fuel pressure. Ive tryed both timing orders 1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 and 1 - 5 - 4 -2 - 6 - 3 -7 - 8. Both allow the truck to start for several seconds because there'ss 4 cylinders the same on both firing orders. Ive choosen the 1 -5 - 4 one because well it says it on the sticker in the motor compartment. I've tryed taking out the distributor and spinning it 1 tooth in either direction to seen if theres a difference and well what I have right now is the best I can get it. I was thinking a possible leak in the upper intake gasket? or some sensor.

 

BroncoJoe19

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Pezster

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A dirty IAC would allow the motor to run for about 5seconds then shut off? Even with the throttle fully open?

 
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Pezster

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I've replaced the IAC. Motor still does the same thing. There were no check engine lights on, then error nubmer 67,96 came up.

Neutral Saftey Swich and Fuel Pump. I already knew the neutral saftey swich was bad because i have to hold the gear lever up for the motor to crank. As fare as the fuel pump goes ive disconnected the gas line turned the key and gas flowed for about 2seconds steadily, also wile cranking motor gas flows steadily also. I honestly dont know what else i can possibly replace on this motor that i havnt already.

 

50joe

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I've replaced the IAC. Motor still does the same thing. There were no check engine lights on, then error nubmer 67,96 came up.
Neutral Saftey Swich and Fuel Pump. I already knew the neutral saftey swich was bad because i have to hold the gear lever up for the motor to crank. As fare as the fuel pump goes ive disconnected the gas line turned the key and gas flowed for about 2seconds steadily, also wile cranking motor gas flows steadily also. I honestly dont know what else i can possibly replace on this motor that i havnt already.
Check the coolant temperature sensor. (not the one pin for the gauge, the 2 pin the ECU uses). If that isn't connected, shorted, or not in the coolant, the ECU reads a default temp of -40 degrees. This causes the injectors to dump fuel, flooding the engine. the reason it probably starts with the pedal on the floor, the TPS (throttle pos. sensor) reads 100%, goes into clear flood mode, and shuts off the injectors. May not be your problem, but I would start checking there.

 
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Pezster

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Well only another 15$ or so lol. I'll read the computer error codes again because I know i had a coolant temperature error code but then i moved the wire and it went away. I'll test the voltage on the wires to see if its correct, have any idea what the correct voltage should be?

 

BroncoJoe19

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Code 96 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure. The EEC did not sense battery voltage on the Fuel Pump Monitor circuit.

I don't know what the monitor circuit is, but this is a pretty clear code.

Could it be a failing Fuel pump relay?

A bad ground to the pump? or to the relay?

Check your ground to the driver's side upper radiator support that should be the ground for the fuel pump.

 
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Pezster

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Replaced the map sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump relay today. Fuel pressure looks to be alot better. Still not worrking anymore ideas?

Still recieivng error 51. Temp Coolant sensor voltage is to high. No Idea on that 1 but i dont think that would cause it to not start.

 
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Pezster

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Cam was changed. The orig firing order for the motor is wrong. Ive clogged 3 holes with paper towls . 1,5,3. 1 then 3 popped so its the 1.3.7 firing order not the 1.5.4. The engine fired up for 10seconds about the longest it ran. Then died. New Distributor. Seems like when the motor sits over night and is turned over the day it fires right. Like it isnt flooded?. Spark is bright white so spark is good. getting error number 96. Thermactor air system problem? Not sure what that is.

 

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