1995 302

[gunther123]

> I turn the key on ...hear the fuel pump go on and then try to start...will not start....I wait a while with the key on and hear the pump kick on again for a brief amount of time...the engine will then start....it is taking longer for the pump to kick on the second time......any ideas

Thanks

 

[89Bronco58]

if you think it may eb a fuel pressure building problem then I would check the pressure witha guage first and see what you come up with, you could have a clogged filter or something fairly simple to fix

 

[gunther123]

if you think it may eb a fuel pressure building problem then I would check the pressure witha guage first and see what you come up with, you could have a clogged filter or something fairly simple to fix

Can the computer sense pressure and turn the pump on and off or does the punp come on for a fixed amount of time? I changed the fuel pump last year and the fuel filter twice since then.

Thanks

 

[miesk5]

Can the computer sense pressure and turn the pump on and off or does the punp come on for a fixed amount of time? I changed the fuel pump last year and the fuel filter twice since then.
Thanks

The computer (via the EEC relay) provides power to the fuel pump relay for about 2 seconds when you first turn the key to to start...then ON

by Will; "...You should test your relays by applying 12 V across the small terminals, listen for the click and check continuity across the large terminals. This will rule out the relays themselves being a problem. Usually they ARE the problem, so hopefully you can stop there. They absolutely HATE moisture so if you are missing your cover Im sure some moisture got inside the relays themselves."

and, is the Check Engine Light ON?

Ryan has an overview of the EEC IV system that may help you to troubleshoot;

 

[89Bronco58]

i agree, mainly because a relay swap is the cheapest and fastest way to possibly fix the problem, like what, 25 bucks and 5 minutes...good deal

 

[miesk5]

what year is your Bronco?

if 92-96, try swapping Horn Relay with da FP Relay... only works on 92+

 

[gunther123]

what year is your Bronco?if 92-96, try swapping Horn Relay with da FP Relay... only works on 92+

I swapped out the horn relay with the FP relay....same problem......This was the same advice a friend gave me.......Once again the only way my Bronco will start if I leave the key on and listen for the FP to go on briefly then stop...the truck will then start......

Any other ideas

 

[gunther123]

Can anyone identify the relays located to the right of my power disribution box on my 95 302 bronco. The first one was very hot so I swapped it out with its neighbor.

 

[Roadkill]

Can anyone identify the relays located to the right of my power disribution box on my 95 302 bronco. The first one was very hot so I swapped it out with its neighbor.

This is from a '96, but it should be the same in your '95.

 

[89Bronco58]

you are only supposed to hear the fuel pump for a few seconds, maybe 1-2 seconds, until it fills up and then its silent, thats how mine has always been, it just gets quiet because it gets full of gas which makes it silent mostly and when u first turns it on its empty mostly, have you checked your fuel pump on the frame rail? im not sure if 95's had a fuel pump on the rail but if it does it wouldnt hurt to check it, seems like you may have some sort of a block thats making your pump take a little extra time to make the fuel reach your motor, another thought is ignition, have your truck sit over night and forst thing in the morning check to make sure as soon as its cranked for the first time that day that there is spark, do the same with the fuel as well

 

[gunther123]

This is from a '96, but it should be the same in your '95.

On the right side of the distribution box there are 3 relays and 1 diode....I can't identify them....not in manual.

Thank

 

[gunther123]

you are only supposed to hear the fuel pump for a few seconds, maybe 1-2 seconds, until it fills up and then its silent, thats how mine has always been, it just gets quiet because it gets full of gas which makes it silent mostly and when u first turns it on its empty mostly, have you checked your fuel pump on the frame rail? im not sure if 95's had a fuel pump on the rail but if it does it wouldnt hurt to check it, seems like you may have some sort of a block thats making your pump take a little extra time to make the fuel reach your motor, another thought is ignition, have your truck sit over night and forst thing in the morning check to make sure as soon as its cranked for the first time that day that there is spark, do the same with the fuel as well

Very good information here......So basically the fuel pump is always on when you turn the key on.......I'm gonna check the voltage to the FP relay when I am starting it and make sure that it is always on.....the strange thing about this problem is the way I can hear the pump kick on very briefly after I already tried to start the car. Once I hear this sound it starts right away......it is starting to sound like some kind of restriction........My 95 has 1 pump.....Is there any area that is in the fuel line that is most likely to block>

Thank You

 

[89Bronco58]

yes everytime u turn the truck off, and then back on, your going to hear the pump very briefly as it refills itself with fuel, you dont need to check for voltage most likely, if the truck will run, the pump is working, the most likely place for a block is either the strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump, or the fuel filter which should be on the driverside inner frame rail pretty much right under the driverseat

 

[gunther123]

yes everytime u turn the truck off, and then back on, your going to hear the pump very briefly as it refills itself with fuel, you dont need to check for voltage most likely, if the truck will run, the pump is working, the most likely place for a block is either the strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump, or the fuel filter which should be on the driverside inner frame rail pretty much right under the driverseat

I changed the ignition module today .........it ran fine.....tried starting about 2 hours later.........nothing.....no spark at all......I am running out of options here......someone told me to check the pickup...is it on the crank or the distributor.....95 302

 

[89Bronco58]

distributor, so it has moved to an ignition problem now?, is the fuel pump taken care of?

 

[gunther123]

distributor, so it has moved to an ignition problem now?, is the fuel pump taken care of?

Car has been sitting at the shop for about 10 days now......it starts for them all the time....the few times it wouildn't start there was no spark......they want to change the fuel pump but I question that because there is no spark at the same time......now they are thinking ignition switch..........I gotta take it home soon

 

[miesk5]

Car has been sitting at the shop for about 10 days now......it starts for them all the time....the few times it wouildn't start there was no spark......they want to change the fuel pump but I question that because there is no spark at the same time......now they are thinking ignition switch..........I gotta take it home soon

yo!

Hate to say this, but you need to ditch these "mechanics" and find someone who Knows how to diagnose Ford TFI ignitions & da simple ign switch circuitry and do a Simple friggin' multimeter or "bulb" test on da TFI ignition - Hall Effect Sending Unit, switch, etc.:

or read some of this below and on my site for the Hall Effect & TFI troubleshooting as well as ign switch ts...and DIY

btw, do you have a Check Engine Light (CEL) lit when engine is running?

some basics;

Hall Effect, Stator (RPM) Overview & Wave Form, Ford Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection

and his ign sw diagrams...

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/public/Ig...chConnector.gif

&

An essential part of the EEC-IV system is the fuel system. Often, the fuel system is blamed for faults which actually occur elsewhere; however, a simple test can test many components. A high pressure fuel tester must be connected to the fuel relief valve on the fuel rail (Schrader valve).

First relieve fuel system pressure, then attach the tester.

Next, turn the key on (engine off) to prime the fuel system. T

here should be 36-42PSI of pressure. Start the engine. The pressure at idle should remain within the same range. Rev the engine a few times to ensure fuel pressure remains constant.

Excess pressure usually determines a faulty FPR.

Too little pressure could be the FPR, fuel filter, fuel pumps, or a leak.

 

[gunther123]

yo!Hate to say this, but you need to ditch these "mechanics" and find someone who Knows how to diagnose Ford TFI ignitions & da simple ign switch circuitry and do a Simple friggin' multimeter or "bulb" test on da TFI ignition - Hall Effect Sending Unit, switch, etc.:

or read some of this below and on my site for the Hall Effect & TFI troubleshooting as well as ign switch ts...and DIY

btw, do you have a Check Engine Light (CEL) lit when engine is running?

some basics;

Hall Effect, Stator (RPM) Overview & Wave Form, Ford Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection

and his ign sw diagrams...

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/public/Ig...chConnector.gif

&

An essential part of the EEC-IV system is the fuel system. Often, the fuel system is blamed for faults which actually occur elsewhere; however, a simple test can test many components. A high pressure fuel tester must be connected to the fuel relief valve on the fuel rail (Schrader valve).

First relieve fuel system pressure, then attach the tester.

Next, turn the key on (engine off) to prime the fuel system. T

here should be 36-42PSI of pressure. Start the engine. The pressure at idle should remain within the same range. Rev the engine a few times to ensure fuel pressure remains constant.

Excess pressure usually determines a faulty FPR.

Too little pressure could be the FPR, fuel filter, fuel pumps, or a leak.

I had the pickup changed today....the car is running without stalling all the time now...so far...The only problem is the car is running terrible.....can the pickup be put in wrong ....could the module been fried....does it need to be timed...the car runs like it is on 6 cylinders.....I gotta bring it back

Thanks

 

[miesk5]

I had the pickup changed today....the car is running without stalling all the time now...so far...The only problem is the car is running terrible.....can the pickup be put in wrong ....could the module been fried....does it need to be timed...the car runs like it is on 6 cylinders.....I gotta bring it backThanks

ok. do you have a Check Engine Light ON?

yo,

try a DIY Code Check by Ryan

Even if the Check Engine Light is not on - "Don