1994 Eddie Bauer gremlins

[KYbronco3]

Hey all, so I have an electrical issue that just showed up over night. 2 nights ago, drove to/from the store everything fine. Next morning, won't start...jumped it off - while driving voltmeter and tach were erratic, but ran and drove ok, all lights dimmed a lot when coming to a stop. Next day, with a battery charger connected - key off, all interior lights are bright, turn key to on lights immediately go dim and sometimes the fuel pump relay and injectors are clicking.....where do we start???? I have tried to swap the fuel pump and horn relay (no change)

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

Check battery voltage; a normal battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts, not just 12.0 V. (Remember, when measuring battery voltage, everything in the car should be off, or the batteryshould be disconnected. Voltage measurements are always "no load" measurements unless the battery is being tested for it's performance under load)

Inspect for loose battery posts, connectors, cables and visible wire strands & under insulation an inch or so under coonectors:
- for corrosion, damage or looseness.

Check for poor  connections between battery and alternator, starter relay on inner fender, check alternator connector..  

- include ground cables from battery post & connector to engine, frame, intake manifold, hood, etc.

Grounds;

Engine Block pic in a 94 5.8; "...The black battery wire goes from the front bolt of the engine mount (on the block) to this tab & up to the battery post, where a smaller black wire goes to the core support, providing a continuous ground path between the engine, frame, battery, & body..." 

Source: by CodysBigBlueBronco (how much $???) 

Frame & Battery pic in a 93; "...With the wheelwell gone, it's easy to inspect the frame ground, just inboard of the spring tower on top of the frame rail. The battery ground cable is stripped ~3/4" and a tab is soldered on so it can be bolted to the frame..." 


Intake Manifold to Block Ground "Strap" Location pic in a 96 5.0 

Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) 

Plus:

Fender Apron (passenger side) 
G101 front of engine compartment, front of fender apron (D1) - RH = Passenger side mine has 2 small black wires between starter relay & headlight; this is #5 in the diagram 
5 — Body Grounds (Part of 12A581) 
19 14301 Chassis Ground 

Fender Apron, Left

10 N806972-S36MG ***** to Ground Wire Assembly this;
G100 & G104 (tied together in diagram) 
G100 @ LH front of engine compartment, on upper radiator support
G104 @ Rear of LH fender apron near hood hinge and 4WABS Test Connector (RED)
G100 Serves Component:
LH Oxygen Sensor
Fuel Pump Module
Inertia Fuel Shutoff
Misfire Sensor
Misfire Sensor Shield
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.0L 
4WABS Control Module
4WABS Relay #1
G101 Serves RH Oxygen Sensor
4WABS Pump Motor
....
G104 Serves Component:
4WABS Data Link Connector
Instrument Cluster
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.0L
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.8L
Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM)
Trailer Relay Box
============

Engine Starter Subsystem and Battery, 5.0L, 5.8L and 7.5L Engines

12 14301 To Engine Ground 
18 12A581 Body Grounds 
19 14301 Chassis Ground 
23 N802777-S36 Bolt for 14301 Frame Ground

G103 (battery to engine) Lower RH front of engine
Component
4WABS Pump Motor
Battery
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.0L
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.8L
Right Front Park/Turn Lamp
Right Front Side Marker Lamp
Right Headlamp
...

 

[KYbronco3]

Thanks miesk, sounds like we're on the same page....I was thinking I probably had a power or ground issue somewhere....I'll start digging into these and post back

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

Ok.

Will be back here a couple of times later. 

I won't be on line after 630 pm edst on any day.

 

[KYbronco3]

Not 100% sure, but may have found it....put a different battery on it and voila! It runs again!!!! I'm gonna feel like a real idiot if that's all it was

 

[miesk5]

Yo KY,

Could have been a Dead Cell; "... Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later. If this happens measure the S.G. in each cell. If one cell has a lower S.G. than the rest by a significant amount, replace the battery - there is no way to fix this problem. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory..."

 

[KYbronco3]

I've just never seen one fail that fast, literally over night....I'm just glad it wasn't something more complex

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

I had a dead cell in our 96. Nno crank then after turning to start a few times, it would crank.

"common cause of battery failure is acid stratification. The electrolyte on a stratified battery concentrates on the bottom, causing the upper half of the cell to be acid poor. This effect is similar to a cup of coffee in which the sugar collects on the bottom when the waitress forgets to bring the stirring spoon. Batteries tend to stratify if kept at low charge (below 80%) and never have the opportunity to receive a full charge. Short distance driving while running windshield wiper and electric heaters contributes to this. Acid stratification reduces the overall performance of the battery." by http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/archive/what_causes_car_batteries_to_fail