1994 bronco electrical problems

[8vettes]

Hi everyone and thanks in advance fir any help
I have 1994 bronco that I have owned since I bought new in 1994 . She is my baby and I want to get her fixed up so I can drive regularly again. 1. I have a constant 5 beep then stop and repeat coming from under dash 2. The key reminder goes off when I remove the key. 3 abs module seems to have gone bad with no. Speedo or trans shifting so I jumped the abs connector and now drives ok but no abs. 4. overhead console lights no longer comes on when door is opened and overheard console compass not lighting up .
I have replaced speed sensor in rear end put in new ignition key cylinder and replaced clock spring due to small broken terminal in lock cylinder . I also found and purchased another abs module but it did not fix any of the problems seller stated it was fully functional but it performs same as my existing module. I know it’s a lot but I have been at trying to fix this situation for almost a year with any free time I have . If you can please advise me on how to get all any or all of this fixed thank you
Reply

 

[miesk5]

Yo 8,
Will, try to respond to each issue, but will need to stop to rest my eyes, but will be back.

Key-in-Ignition Warning Overview in a 96 from Workshop Manual, same for 94; "...The warning chime/buzzer sounds when the driver's door is open with the key in the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582), and continues to sound until the key is removed or the door is closed. When the key is in the ignition switch lock cylinder, the key-in-ignition switch is closed and ground is supplied to the warning chime/buzzer module through Circuit 158 (BK/PK). When the driver's door is open, the driver's door lamp switch (13713) is closed and power is supplied to the module through Circuit 159 (R/PK)..."it's becoming common for door lock cylinder to go bad, and triggering the chime is just one of the issues.


Key-In Contact Repair



If the key buzzer/chime is always on (even when the key is out & the cylinder bezel is properly aligned) or if the horn blows intermittently ('94-95 only), then the contact has probably come loose from the steering column, and is grounding against it (1). With the cylinder assembly & column shroud removed, the contact belongs fully in the channel under the cylinder with its upper tab hooked over the column's debossment (2). The tab commonly breaks, but even if it's intact, it's a weak retention method which can be improved easily by the addition of a zip-tie (3). Ensure the contact touches the switch on the cylinder when the cylinder is inserted (4). Finally, ensure the zip-tie does not interfere with the column shroud (5).

The lock cylinder catch pin (6) is accessible through a small hole (noticeably smaller than the ***** holes) in the bottom of the column shroud, and can be depressed only when the key is in RUN. Then the cylinder can be extracted with the key.

PINPOINT TEST C: KEY-IN-IGNITION WARNING INOPERATIVE​

This original '93 collar (using the 10-cut key) is very loose, causing several annoying problems. With the key in RUN, push a probe up through the small hole in the lower shroud (behind the word "continuous"), depress the catch pin, and withdraw the cylinder assembly from the column. I had a spare cylinder to put in so I could turn the ignition off while I was working. New AFTERMARKET 8-cut lock cylinder set ~$70~100 (3): with black keys (2), black ignition cylinder, stainless door cylinders (2); door cylinders alone (w/keys) are Standard DL140. Ford (1L3Z-11582-A) improved 8-cut lock cylinder kit MotorCraft SW-6383 ~$60 (not the A/C clutch pressure switch with the same number) StratTec is the OEM for the Ford kit, and its number is 707624 for about half the price. The blank key is 597638 for ~$2.50~6 each.

Collar02

C1 CHECK KEY-IN-IGNITION INPUT​

• Open driver door.
• Using a jumper wire connected to a known good ground, connect other end of jumper to Pin 4, Circuit 158 (BK/PK) at warning chime/buzzer module connector.

Does warning chime/buzzer module sound?

Yes	No
GO to C2.	GO to C3.

C2 CHECK CIRCUIT 158 (BK/PK) FOR OPEN​

• Disconnect warning chime/buzzer module.
• Disconnect key-in-ignition switch at steering column.
• Using an ohmmeter, connect one lead to Pin 4, Circuit 158 (BK/PK) at warning chime/buzzer module connector. Connect second lead to Circuit 158 (BK/PK) at key-in-ignition switch connector.
• Check for continuity.

Is continuity present?

Yes	No
REPLACE key-in-ignition switch. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.	SERVICE Circuit 158 (BK/PK) for open. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.

 

[miesk5]

Yo,
Chime Wiring @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjd9005.htm
●
No ABS:
Fuse 13 Blown, Stop & Hazard Lamps, Stop Sensor for Anti-Lock Brakes (4WABS) Speed Control & PCM Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 for 94-95 Bronco & F Series; wire harness may be pinched/shorted on steering column support behind the dash where the 14401 wire assy may come in contact w/a sharp edge on dash panel wall, I had same short here too & caused E4OD's TCIL (OD switch-LED) to blink like a friggin pia; wires pinched @ brake/tail lights, my 96's stop/turn/tail lights wires were almost cut in half on passenger side against 1/4 panel (inner); wires pinched @ high mount brake light & @ driver's left hand seat belt anchor bolt @ base of B Pillar. See the location diagram; Miesk5 Note; for Fuse E, also see TSB 95-5-21 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Ford via Chilton

By Ford:

Section 07-07: Transfer Case, 4x4 System, Service

1996 F-150, 250, 350 (4x4), and Bronco Vehicles with Manual Shift Transfer Case; All Bronco and F-150 4x4 Vehicles with Electronic Shift Transfer Case Only Workshop Manual​

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

---

Symptom Chart — Transfer Case, 4X4 System​

NOTE: Use Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter 105-R0051 or equivalent to perform electrical pinpoint tests.





SYMPTOM CHART — TRANSFER CASE, 4X4 SYSTEM

Condition	Possible Source	Action
Power and Grounds	Bad or intermittent power to control module. Faulty control module ground.	GO to Pinpoint Test A.
Electronic 4WD Indicator Lamp Inoperative	Electronic 4WD lamp not functioning properly. Electronic 4WD lamp open or shorted.	GO to Pinpoint Test B.
Brake Switch Input	Stoplamp operation. Bad or intermittent brake switch input.	GO to Pinpoint Test C.
Park/Neutral Position Switch or Transmission Range Sensor Inoperative, Will Not Start	Control module to park/neutral position open. Faulty park/neutral position switch failure. Transmission range sensor failure.	GO to Pinpoint Test D.
Transfer Case Speed Sensors Diagnosis	Speed sensor power supply. Continuity testing of the speed sensor lines. Short-to-ground testing of speed sensor lines.	GO to Pinpoint Test E.
Transfer Case Clutch Diagnosis	Bad or intermittent power to clutch. Clutch circuit short-to-ground. Continuity testing of clutch circuit.	GO to Pinpoint Test F.

---

Electronic 4WD Indicator Lamp Inoperative

Electronic 4WD lamp not functioning properly. Electronic 4WD lamp open or shorted.

GO to Pinpoint Test B.

PINPOINT TEST B: 4WD INDICATOR LAMP DIAGNOSIS​

B1 ELECTRONIC 4-WHEEL DRIVE LAMP NOT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY

• Check for voltage at the module harness connector Pin 4:
  • Key off.
  • Back-probe the module harness connector C2 at Pin 5 with module connected.
  • Set voltmeter to the 20 VDC scale.
  • Check the voltage between Pin 5 of the control module and chassis ground with the ignition switch off.

Is voltage less than 3V?

Yes	No
GO to B2.	REPAIR short to B+ between control module (Pin 4) and the electronic 4-wheel drive warning lamp.

B2 ELECTRONIC 4-WHEEL DRIVE LAMP NOT FUNCTIONING​

• Check for voltage at the control module Pin 5:
  • Back-probe the module harness connector C2 Pin 5 with the controller module connected.
  • Set the voltmeter to the 20 VDC scale.
  • Key to RUN.
  • Check the voltage between the electronic shift control module Pin 5 and chassis ground.

Is voltage steady and greater than 9V?

Yes	No
GO to Pinpoint Test C.	REPLACE control module.

PINPOINT TEST C: BRAKE SWITCH INPUT DIAGNOSIS​

C1 STOPLAMP OPERATION​

• Check for stoplamp operation:
  • Apply the service brakes and observe the rear stoplamps.

Are stoplamps operating with brake pedal depressed?

Yes	No
GO to C2.	REPAIR the stoplamp circuit and RETEST.

C2 BAD OR INTERMITTENT BRAKE SWITCH INPUT​

• Check for intermittent open in the control module brake switch circuit:
  • Disconnect the module harness connector C2 from the module.
  • Set the voltmeter on the 20 VDC scale.
  • Check the voltage between the module harness connector C2 Pin 5 Circuit 783 (GY) and chassis ground while the brake pedal is depressed.
  • Shake module harness. Recheck for intermittent voltage.

Is voltage steady and greater than 9V?

Yes	No
REPLACE control module.	REPAIR break in the module to brake switch circuit.

 

[miesk5]

Yo,
"overhead console lights no longer comes on when door is opened and overheard console compass not lighting up ."

Dome Lamp Inoperative

Damaged switch. Circuitry open/shorted. Damaged bulb.

GO to Pinpoint Test C.

"

PINPOINT TEST C: DOME LAMP INOPERATIVE​

C1 HEADLAMP SWITCH CHECK DOME LIGHT ON

• With the headlamp switch in the ON position for the dome light, use a volt-ohmmeter to check for voltage at terminal D2 of the headlamp switch.

Is voltage present at Pin D2?

Yes	No
GO to C2.	REPLACE headlamp switch. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.

C2 CHECK CIRCUIT 53 (BK/LB)

• Disconnect dome lamp.
• With headlamp switch in the ON position for dome light activation, use a volt-ohmmeter to check Circuit 53 (BK/LB) at the dome light for voltage.

Is voltage present?

Yes	No
GO to C3.	REPAIR open in Circuit 53 (BK/LB). RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.

C3 CHECK DOME LAMP GROUND

• With a volt-ohmmeter check the dome lamp ground side.

Is there resistance?

Yes	No
REPLACE dome lamp.	REPLACE dome lamp fixture. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

COMPASS: "overheard console compass not lighting up ." See fuse 10? Check below wiring diagram to Confirm fuse # ​

Connector, see above LegendP ​

 

[8vettes]

Miesk5 thank you for your info you also sent me a pic on how to jump the abs control module a while ago which got the bronco up and running minus the abs system but brakes still working fine . Most of my electrical issues started at the same time do you any commonality in these issues that might point to one or two culprits.
Ps I bought a used abs module and after connecting it the truck did the exact same things it did with the original one connected. So I’m thinking another issue is causing problems not abs module

 

[miesk5]

Yo 8,
YW!
See
4WABS Troubleshooting; miesk5 Note; for all Resistance tests, battery needs to be disconnected; remove Negative cable at battery
Source: by Ford via Steve83

My internet times out too fast!
If same for you,go to https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...IQFnoECA8QAQ&usg=AOvVaw1olZ8IYxs_xjPuf-Ft5fso and enter http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=255501&original=1
However web.archive.org is under maintenance right now.
It's one 9f those friggin' days!

 

[johnnyreb]

Yo 8,
YW!
See
4WABS Troubleshooting; miesk5 Note; for all Resistance tests, battery needs to be disconnected; remove Negative cable at battery
Source: by Ford via Steve83

My internet times out too fast!
If same for you,go to https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...IQFnoECA8QAQ&usg=AOvVaw1olZ8IYxs_xjPuf-Ft5fso and enter http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=255501&original=1
However web.archive.org is under maintenance right now.
It's one 9f those friggin' days!

 

[johnnyreb]

I,m sure glad I have a 78 instead of one of these . With all the electric problems. Hope your internet and eyes are doing better Mike. Thanks for the information knowledge . For serving our country and all who has and are serving now.