1991 Won't Hold charge! Replaced Battery, Fuel Relay, Solenoid

[WolfmanTopHat]

Ok Fellas,

Before I spend $80 to $100

I replaced the Starter about 8 months ago.

I replaced the solenoid 2 weeks ago.

The Battery and the Fuel relay within the past few days.

Replacing the fuel relay allowed me to actually start it up and get it charging again.

but...

The battery won't hold a charge for more then 15min! I can sit and rev it all I want.

If I get it in gear and start driving it will power down after about 25ft.

If i turn on the Radio. Dead

If i roll down a window. Dead

If i turn on the AC. Dead

Also,

Recently when I charge it I've noticed the Positive charge glows RED HOT or will Spark when I get enough juice to turn it over and then boom battery is dead again and I have to start the charge again.

If I bang the starter it will start. But once again. Dies in about 15min.

All ground connections are good.

Wires are solid, no tears or weak points.

So.. Now I'm thinking ALTERNATOR!

Does this sound like an Alternator problem to you guys?

Or does it sound like there is something else going on?

First time Truck owner.

 

[miesk5]

yo Wolfman,

WELCOME!

Pull the batty and get it tested for free at local parts store. Have them do the tests shown in below TSB;

Battery Testing Procedure TSB 91-10-10 for 85-91 Bronco, Aerostar, Econoline, F-150-350 Series, Ranger; 85-90 Bronco II; 89-91 F Super Duty, F47, F-53, F-59; 91 Explorer, etc.

Source: by Ford via http://www.performanceprobe.com/misc/tsb.php?article=91-10-10

Battery Drain; "...Disconnect the positive clamp on your battery but take care not to touch the body metal with the wrench when doing this. Now connect a small light between the + terminal and the clamp. Put the clamp on a rag so it can't touch the sheet metal. If any drain is present the light will glow. Or you can check the amount of drain with an small ammeter. A drain of 1-2 Watts can be tolerated.

Next pull the fuse for the mechanic clock and the radio. Still any current flowing (light on)? Ok, so you really have a problem. Now start pulling the fuses in the fuse box one by one until the light goes off. This is the circuit in which the problem lies. Check your manual or the indications in the cover of the fuse box to see which systems are connected to that fuse. The next steps depend on the systems concerned. Try disconnecting each one of the parts connected in the circuit. Again it's the same - when the light goes out you've found the problem. Even better than a light bulb is an buzzer. Many people have one of those annoying little rascals lying around. Use it..."

Source: by Alain H

Dead Cell; "... Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later. If this happens measure the S.G. in each cell. If one cell has a lower S.G. than the rest by a significant amount, replace the battery - there is no way to fix this problem. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory..."

Source: by Gordon via miesk5

Parasitic Current Drain Test; "...you should be able to trace the "parasitic draw" on the battery in the normal way. Pull the (-) cable off & put an ammeter inline set to the 10A range (or higher if possible) to see how much current is being pulled out of the battery with the key OFF, the doors SHUT, & the hood light bulb REMOVED. Make sure absolutely NOTHING is turned on anywhere on the truck. If it registers 0 or below the meter's next range, switch it down a range until it shows some useful numbers. If it ends up being below 0.5A (500mA), then replace the battery. If it's above that, start by disconnecting all the alternator wires & see if the reading drops under 0.5A. Then move to the fuse block & pull them 1 at a time until there's a significant drop in the reading. That's the circuit that's draining the battery. Follow it to find the problem..."

Source: by Stev

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[Rons beast]

Hey Wolf TH, Welcome.

First a few questions.  Have you determined that the battery is indeed getting 13.2 to 14.7 volts when the engine is running?

What is the charging voltage?

Can you explain:  "...the positive charge will glow red hot or spark..." ?

What was the original problem?  No cranking?  Cranking but not firing?

You may have an alternator problem, but I would not like to guess. 

I know myself and many others on here would like to help, but more info is needed. 

 

[Seabronc]

The battery may be dead by now, but once a car is started it should run on the alternator not the battery.  The battery is only topped off once the engine starts providing the alternator is working.

Also, that red sparking at the battery terminal may indicate it is severely corroded.

You also need to check the battery (-) cable to the engine block and frame.  Check all connections and lugs for corrosion. If you see corrosion where the cable attaches to the lug, throw it away and replace it with a new one. 

 

[WolfmanTopHat]

Gentlemen, 

Thank you so much for the input. 

All is well now. 

After replacing the battery. 

My old **** poor Alternator drained the life right out of it, then I replaced the Alternator and had to return to the Zone to have them fully charge my battery. 

Started right up! 

Drove for about 15miles. 

Then whomp whomp.. DEAD again

Returned battery to have them check ( just to be sure ) 

Battery was good. 

After pulling a few moments of the old Pooh Bear " Think, think, think" Routine and reading through all your comments.

Yes!! Victory.

Replaced the Battery Terminals and VRROOOMM!!!  

GOOD TO GO!.

No further issues.

Thank you all kindly for the valued input. You were a great help.

Sincerely,

Wolfman