1990 Bronco; Considering Purchase

[benbery150]

thank you for the help but the guy is selling it to someone else today, if anyone has a Bronco for sale for cheap I would probably buy, please email [email protected] for offers

thanks

 

[Skitter302]

Yo! Welcome to the Zone!

Photos help I could describe my Bronco as being a many conditions but Potos don't lie!

5 speed Auto? only 4spd autos came from the factory for that year. The price seems a but high for the year. Maybe $7500-$8000. Look it up in NADA.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Ben,

Welcome!

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We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed, etc, using Ford's severe duty schedule.

One of thek most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).

Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

Check VIN for Model Year & Engine Type (for example; 5.0, 5.8, 4.9) .

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Decoder; for 81-86 & 87-96 Bronco & Ford Trucks

Order a CarFax. Although not all accident info is provided other important info is providee @ https://www.carfax.com

While you take a test drive, have someone stay behind or follow and check for leak puddles, exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc.

Member @dash_cam offers very good advice on having an independent inspection done at sellers location! If you cant inspect it yourself, post Location in the noobie section and ask members for their help or seek out an ASE certified shop in area to inspect it for you.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:

- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford

- try opening and closing tailgate glass

- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight

- auto tranny - E4OD in 90 to 96 had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing.

For it and C6 or AOD, look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).

If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.

- engine rear main/timing chain cover seals, etc.

- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive $ patch or full panel replacements at a body shop, but some diy.

check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass

- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings

- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96, aka speedometer/odometer), make sure it works; look for a slight waver in the needle at highway speeds.

- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.

- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)

- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com

- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace

- body mount deterioration and frame rust

-transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop and/or the motor connector is fouled, etc.

Also in non-carbureted Broncos the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning

If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.

Is CEL ON when starting or while driving?

Same for:

E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) , it is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

Is it flashing while driving?

For pre 96 with EFI do a SELF TEST for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)s by my pal BroncoJoe

"1987 was the year the rear anti-lock brakes (RABS) were standardized on Broncos; ". It operates only the rear wheels, especially important with light trucks, which often carry heavy loads supported primarily by the rear suspension and wheels..."

The RABS module monitor the electromechanical components of the systems. Malfunction of the system will cause the Anti-lock brake electronic control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power assisted braking remains. Malfunctions are indicated by the amber ABS warning light inside the vehicle.

Suggest you buy the official FORD Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis (PCED), Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) on DVD.. be sure your pc, etc will be able to read the DVD, or buy a paper version.

Cash is King.

As craigslist advises, "Do not extend payment to anyone you have not met in person.

Beware offers involving shipping - deal with locals you can meet in person.

Never wire funds (e.g. Western Union) - anyone who asks you to is a scammer.

Don't accept cashier/certified checks or money orders - banks cash fakes, then hold you responsible. Sometimes a seller may "promise" to return a certain amount of money during negotiations .

Transactions are between users only, no third party provides a "guarantee".

Never give out financial info (bank account, social security, paypal account, etc).

A summary of questions to ask the seller;

"* Do you have all the maintenance records?

* Do you have the title in hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?

* How do I get the title?

* Has the vehicle been in any accidents?

* Do you have all the maintenance records?

* How much tread is left on the tires?

* Are there any scratches or dents on the vehicle?

* Can I receive close-up pictures of a specific area (miesk5 note, such as on 1/4 panels, tailgate, seats, dash including odometer, etc)?

* Are there any document or preparation fees?"

* is Courtesy of ebay

GL!

Al

GL,

Al

 

[Skitter302]

thank you for the help but the guy is selling it to someone else today, if anyone has a Bronco for sale for cheap I would probably buy, please email [email protected] for offers

thanks

What do you define as cheap? $5k?

 

[benbery150]

What do you define as cheap? $5k?

id say about $5k-$7k is good