1980 Ford Bronco wiring

[Goliath]

I have a 1980 Bronco, and it was in a flood a few years back.

Since then I have been having problems with various things, mainly charging.

If I dont start it up at least every couple of days, it loses its charge and I have to jump it.

I have looked and disconnected everything i can think of except for the radio and obvious other electrical things it needs to work, and still no luck.

So unless you guys have another idea.

Mine is to replace the wiring harness.

I know that might be extreme but i have brought it to other professionals who always say they fixed it and just been throwing money out for bad.

Before I stopped using it as a daily runner, the problems that brought the electrical to my attention was the sluggish running of my rear electric window as well as the driver and passenger windows.

My question really is, I havent been able to find anyone that makes a full wiring harness for this truk, be it from ford "Discontinued" or aftermarket.

Any help would be appreciated.

Goliath

p.s., I have tried ..Jegs, Broncohut, Toms Bronco parts, Jeff Duffs, Bronco 4x4 and no luck

p.s.s. and i love this truck and have no plans to get rid of it, as a matter of fact i am seriously considering a full off body restoration.

 

[Seabronc]

If you are not willing to spend a bit of time isolating the power drain then the only place I know of is a junkyard.

1st are you sure the battery will not loose it's charge if you disconnect the positive cable. It is possible that it has a bad cell. If it holds, then I would disconnect wires that are attached to the positive cable at the starter solinoid and only hook up one circuit at a time to see which one causes the discharge. Once the wire that causes the discharge is determined, I'd work down that path.

It's a simple process of elimination proceedure.

I would suspect that it is a wire with the insolation worn thru and touching the body or frame some place. The process would be quickest if you can get an ammeter with a shunt hookup to put in series with the battery, preferably right at the battery. Then you can immediately see the result of addding a circuit.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Bully Bob]

Ditto..! what Seabronc said...

Firstly, I would make sure the batt was fully charged, (not a trickle charger)

Second, do the volt test... 12v with key off...14v (or so) with eng. running.

Third, load-test batt. (while fully charged) ..... AutoZone will do this or most any auto parts store.

We have this prob. with the boats at the shop a lot!! Bad batt 80% of the time. Alternator/volt reg. 15% & misc the rest.

Cost "0" to do these batt/charge system tests. $-)

There's a batt shut-off switch avail. for a quick fix if all above is "good"

There's also a cheap 'lil gaget to test for batt drain, shorts, etc.

HTH

Bob