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  1. So it has been a while since I have posted on this forum but i've owned a few fords since then. Alrighty, so I just moved way up north to Washington from Texas. My lady and I moved up here to be closer to her family and better opportunities, well there has been an agreement on me and my lady's grandfather, Del, he has 1989 F150, 4x4, Single Cab, Swb, with a hopped up 351. So Del has been telling me the problems on this truck and it kinda has me lost diagnostically but I do want to ask questions about this darn thing. Del decided to take the old 351 block out did some work to it and put it back in. Well shortly after he started to experiencing weird problems with it. When you turn the key into the on position, the fuel pump runs constantly and will cause the truck to not want to start.Like the fuel pump should shut off after a couple of seconds but doesn't stop. He replaced the the fuel pump and the computer more than once. It'll run strong for a little while and start having problems, Del unplugged the battery for 10 days, hooked it back up and it started right up. He said something about letting the capacitors release all the data. Once again, it would run strong for a good bit and then just die. Well I got to put my hands on it and all I did was unplug the fuel pump relay, turned the key on, and the fuel pump never made a sound. I connected the relay back in, turned the key, and the fuel pump run constantly and didn't start. My guess is that I need to probably backtrack that wiring and check for a bad ground? Any help is appreciated! If I left anything out, i'll try to update this.
  2. Need some input from the fuel injection gurus out there. My fuel pump relay is clicking like its sending morse code, very erratic like. It wont start so Ive been reading it could be either the fuel pump relay itself or the EEC relay. My question is whats the difference between the two relays? They look identical to me but thats why Im asking the pros. Also if anyone happens to have part numbers for the two it would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance guys. 89 Full size 302ci E4OD trans
  3. I just went through dropping my fuel tank to replace the pump. I learned a few things along the way that I wanted to pass along. Hopefully it will make someone else's job easier! get the fuel tank as close to empty as possible before you start. messing with a tank that has even a few gallons can set you up for a hassle disconnect the battery. you will be messing with fuel. grab a fire extinguisher and have a friend nearby, just in case relieve the fuel line pressure. the valve should be on the fuel injector rail. it looks like a bicycle tire valve. be careful. its gas and if you were driving the engine and exhaust pipe will be hot. (there's a pressure release kit you can rent for this. It captures the fuel) get a fuel line disconnect tool. I added a pic. don't bother starting the job unless you have one. you can buy them at pretty much any auto parts store. if you never used one before, you have to push the line and the tool together before you can pull them apart. it was not all that easy make sure to clean the area under the tank because unless you have a lift you will be on your back the biggest "non-obvious" thing I learned, at the end of the job, was that by removing the left rear wheel, you get access to the fuel lines, vent lines, and filler tube MUCH easier. If you do not do it, you have to finagle your arms over the tank while you really can't see what you are doing. if you remove the wheel, you can see and reach right in. so, jack up the left side, put it on a jack stand, and remove the wheel use a floor jack to hold the tank up until you are ready to let it down. obviously good to use to lift it back in to place again as well not sure what the proper way is to get the pump out past the screen and float at the same time. but I ended up having to flex the float arm a bit. it did not seem to hurt anything. when putting everything back together, I found I had to connect the filler tube to the tank first, and then to the metal pipe that attached to the fuel door. Thats it. Hope it helped someone
  4. 1994 XLT 5.8 Fuel pump turns on EVERY time the key is turned, but engine doesn't always fire. Sometimes if the key is turned from off to on (not start) several times in quick succession, the system seems to generate (hold) enough fuel pressure for the truck to start. Always an audible change in the tone of the fuel pump when pump works/system is pressurized. Goes from mid-pitch to low-pitch. have already put on new fuel filter, pressure regulator, relay switch.... Engine has never sputtered, backfired, stalled, or seemed starved for fuel once it's running. When the pressure regulator was replaced, there was NO fuel pressure in the fuel rail, even though the engine had been running 5 minutes earlier. What, oh what, could the culprit be? Pump? Sending unit? Is there a pressure bleed-off valve in the tank or sending unit that could be bad? I'm completely baffled. Would like to save the money on a mechanic if i can, but I'm recovering from shoulder surgery and dropping the tank in 35 degree weather is too much for me right now.
  5. Hi Guys, Been wrenching on my Bronco for weeks, replaced everything in the fuel system (pump, filter, relay) but the computer (thats next). Main problem; weak pressure at rail. It runs fine, if I pour gas into the air filter. Really stumped, retired disabled minister age 57. Poor in Detroit, need help. Thanks guys. Matt Pittaway Phone number xxx-xxx-xxxx "PM ME" (personal message) xxxx xxxxxx St, Detroit 48228 www.HisHouseMedia.com
  6. I've been replacing different parts of my engine as they've needed replacing, trying to keep ahead of them as to keep it on the road. This week though, I got a fun new surprise - the fuel pump is not working. From what I've been reading, the '90 had two pumps, one in-tank and one in-line, but the '91 only has the in-tank ---Is that correct? I have a '91, with a 5.8, just to clarify. It wasn't the original engine, but it's what I got, so there are wires in the engine compartment that don't exactly have a purpose. My other question is, through my reading, I've heard that the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump inertia switch can also go out, leaving you with a non-responsive pump. Are these both in my '91? And if so, should I check them first? I've been doing most of my repairs in my apartment parking lot, but they don't seem to like that very much, so I may have to tow it somewhere to work on it. With the fuel tank currently having gas in it, is there any concern with doing it myself, other than being cautious, or should I seek professional assistance? Thanks John
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