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Found 15 results

  1. So it has been a while since I have posted on this forum but i've owned a few fords since then. Alrighty, so I just moved way up north to Washington from Texas. My lady and I moved up here to be closer to her family and better opportunities, well there has been an agreement on me and my lady's grandfather, Del, he has 1989 F150, 4x4, Single Cab, Swb, with a hopped up 351. So Del has been telling me the problems on this truck and it kinda has me lost diagnostically but I do want to ask questions about this darn thing. Del decided to take the old 351 block out did some work to it and put it back in. Well shortly after he started to experiencing weird problems with it. When you turn the key into the on position, the fuel pump runs constantly and will cause the truck to not want to start.Like the fuel pump should shut off after a couple of seconds but doesn't stop. He replaced the the fuel pump and the computer more than once. It'll run strong for a little while and start having problems, Del unplugged the battery for 10 days, hooked it back up and it started right up. He said something about letting the capacitors release all the data. Once again, it would run strong for a good bit and then just die. Well I got to put my hands on it and all I did was unplug the fuel pump relay, turned the key on, and the fuel pump never made a sound. I connected the relay back in, turned the key, and the fuel pump run constantly and didn't start. My guess is that I need to probably backtrack that wiring and check for a bad ground? Any help is appreciated! If I left anything out, i'll try to update this.
  2. I have been working on my Ford '82 Bronco for a while now, and I'm buying it from my Dad once it's complete. But the only thing that's giving me trouble right now is the Taillights. The Problem has persisted for a while, and I'm running out of Options when it comes to fixing it. The Front Blinkers all work perfectly, the Nightlights on the Blinkers and Taillights all work, but here's where it differs. The Back-Right Taillight's Nightlight works, but will not flash when the signal-switch is signaling Right. The Front Blinker works just fine, but the Taillight doesn't. Neither does the Brake-light. The Back-Left Taillight nightlight will Light up, The Signals all work on that side, but the Brake-light doesn't. I've expended almost every option available, but to no avail. But I do have just one last possible fix to try. I've traced just about every single inch of the Cables, along with many other possible causes, but couldn't find anything. So I'm almost completely sure that it has to be a Relay that burned out. I'd hate to tear the Driver's Side apart to look for them, and I've got to wait to get to an Auto-Parts Store for the Tools necessary for removing the Steering Wheel, but regardless, I still need all the Help I can Get. I will take a look at the Relays once I get the chance, but any other suggestions will do a tremendous amount of help. Thank You in Advance! Edit: I've just cut out and replaced 3 sections of fried wire, and cut out a wire that was being pinched under the bolt on the Chassis. (Too rusty to remove, it's almost as solid as a Weld.) Still nothing. Edit: I cannot find where the Relays are, so any help on where-about they are would help tremendously! Edit: Finally, a Resolution! Well, I've managed to fix it! With some Willow-billy Wiring, I've rigged up a new wiring system that seems to work quite fine I recon. I'd discovered that the wire that goes from the Ignition to the Brake Switch was fried, and since I didn't have the time to figure out how to replace it, I just ran a wire from the Cigarette Lighter to the Brake Switch. I then ran a wire from the brake switch to both taillights with inline Diodes (which I rigged by modifying some inline Fuse Holders and curlin' the ends of the Diode to make it fit.) to keep the current from flowin' the right direction, and it worked! Then, I started working on the back-right Turn Signal Light. It was a bit easier because I ran a wire from the front Blinker to the Rear Taillight. Having the Brakes pressed, though, caused the Front Turn Signal to light up too, so I rigged another inline Diode (Once again, another modified Fuse-Holder) to direct the current to the Taillight, and Not back to the Front Signal. That was well and good, I mean that the Taillights and Stoplights worked separately, but when the Brakes were pressed at the same time that the Turn Signal was switched on the Brake Lights wouldn't flash on and off. So, I dug out some leftover 12-volt Relays from my project to create a Gauss Rifle (Which was Awesome by the way), and wired them up so that - when the Signal flashed Off, the Brake Lights would turn on, and when the Signal flashed On, the Brake Lights would turn off. Thus, Alaska's own Willowbilly Wiring! Now sure, it may be - well - "Unorthodox," but up here in Alaska - especially in Willow - you use what you have - including the parts and your own engineering - and you make due with it. I have to say, I'm not entirely happy with everything about it, (I mean, the Taillight clicks now!) but after crimping all the Wires, Shrink-Wrapping it and Sealing it with Silicone, I'd recon it'll last at least a good long while! Anyways, thanks to Seabronc for tellin' me what I needed to know to determine whether or not I was going to have a harder time fixing the actual wire, and I wish you the Best of Luck with your own Bronco. Well, I guess someday I might you on the Road! Here's a Health to the Company!
  3. I am fixing to start a restoration on my 81 Bronco Ranger XLT, and I could use some advice on where to find the best deals on parts and accessories. This is the first time I've ever tried to restore a bronco. I guess you could say I'm a Ford virgin, I have always owned a Chevy truck and have built several of them but, I have always wanted a Bronco I either didn't have the extra money for one or I needed a truck at the time. Lucky for me now I have a truck and I was able to trade my 4 wheeler for this awesome or what will soon be an awesome Ford Bronco. I am wanting to Install either a 4" or 6" lift and run a 35x12.5x15 tire. My question is will that tire clear with a 4" lift or will i need to go to a 6" lift, and what is the best lift for the money? Thanks bwheat1981
  4. I need to replace both outside mirrors on my wife's 1996 Ford Bronco, full size, XL. They are powered without heater or turn signal feature. Every new replacement mirror comes with 3 wire harnesses and my existing mirrors have 5 wires. I need HELP making the 3 wire mirrors work on my 5 wire system.
  5. Hey guys, had a bit of a snafu last week. Left lights on, battery died. Had a guy at the auto shop across the street from my work come jump with a portable battery. Got it going up and fine, but I didn't realize he didn't slam down the hood hard enough, just enough for the grill catch to engage. Got about 4 blocks down before the hood flew up on me @ ~25 mph. Was able to pull over safely. My problem is now the hood is low towards the cab and I can't figure out how to raise the rear portion of the hood. When the hood is fully closed now, the front of the hood is flush with the sides. The rear of the hood (closer to the cab) is lower by maybe half an inch or so on both sides. This also causes clearance problems when opening the hood and now the rear scratches the frame quite a bit. I believe I actually have to bend it slightly to get the hood open. See some pics below. Would I be best trying to loosen and reset the bolts that hold the hood to the levers? Maybe I should get a new set of those spring levers that hold the hood? They seem just the slightest bit bent at the stop that prevents the lever from becoming completely straight. Any help is appreciated!
  6. i need to move this pipe to get to the screw on the passenger side valve cover. I have no idea what it is except that it is part of the coolant system and I cant get any tools in there to remove the screw, nor do i have any way to move it..any tips?
  7. [1993 xlt 5.0] I was driving to work yesterday and I noticed my voltage gauge do a little dance and was sitting a little past the M on NORMAL for the voltage reading... I then was leaving work and noticed I had absolutely no tail lights or blinkers or hazards BUT reverse lights do work. I drove home in the dark with just my headlights on and the ass end of the truck was completely dark.. I went to push the hazards and it reved the engine up to 2 grand so I'm thinking it is unlocking my torque converter but I'm not 100% certain...got it home and discovered fuses # 7 and #13 were blown I put a new 13 in pushed the brake pedal it blew the fuse I took the 3rd brake light out took the bulbs out and the taillights out and the bulbs to makensure a fowl bulb wasn't the issue. Put another fuse in and it popped again so messed with #7 fuse put a new one in turned key on put right turn signal on it blew the fuse..then replaced the fuse and turned the turn signal to the left and the blinkers started going and the fuse did not pop... I am lost I am thinking it might possibly be the multifunction switch but I want to hear from all of you what your thoughts are...this is my first bronco had it for 7 months it is absolutely spot on perfect no rust never gave me any problems until now. ~thanks
  8. I just bought a 1985 ford bronco xlt v8 with a 351w and a new process transfer case. It only has 1340000 miles on it and has only been through two owners. Father and son. I am buying it for 700 dollars. And now the catch, I had stars in my eyes when I bought it. Thought as long as I had it I could make it work. Seei work for a van conversion company for big important people. Rappers and football team owners. So I know how to design. Ive also made furniture, and taken automotive. I really have plans. But I dont know where to start when it comes to stripping it down. The engine and everything needs to be rebuild. The frame needs to be sandblasted and probably have new hangers and cross members but in. And I have alot of body work to do and I dont even know how to weld yet. But were do I start with the who thing. Any pointers on this ground up restoration. More pictures to come
  9. Hello, I have a 1987 Full Size Bronco, I am making a whole new circuit for the automatic 4x4 transfer case motor. The transfer Case Motor has 5 wires coming out of the module. purple, yellow/white, orange/white, brown/white, and white. The orange and yellow wires just run the motor back and forth What wires do I have to connect to get a light for 2H, 4x4low, and 4x4 high? I am using a on/off/on momentary rocker switch that reverses polarity for the motor. I want to illuminate the 3 main positions of the pointer in the module. I have a diagram that shows yellow/white as the common. The pointer in the module stops at 2H and 4H. 4L has to be guessed. It seems that one bump of the rocker switch puts the pointer in the correct position for 4L when the pointer is in 4H. I ran 12 volts from the motor side of the rocker switch to the orange and yellow wires that control the motor and its polarity. Now I have these 5 wires that I need to wire up so the LEDs I bought will light at 2H, 4x4High, and 4x4Low How do I wire up those 5 wires to tell me where the pointer is. 5 wires and 3 main positions? Is it possible? Is there anyone out there that can guide me through this? Thank You, Norm
  10. I was wondering if I replace my stock manifolds to some shorty headers will my y pipe be able to bolt back to the headers without having to move anything around? In other words will they be an exact fit?
  11. When I first received the bronco it started no problems, twice. It sat for a week I went to start it to keep the battery charged; I heard something click once internal lights, external lights, instrument lights, all died and would not turn on again. I tried to to start again this time no clicking noise, no lights. I started troubleshooting 15 min in to it and magic, lights returned! So I turn the key to standby position brake light energized, turn to start, everything dead check wires-good, battery-good, starter-good, starter relay-good(It cranked only once out of countless tries). I disconnected the starter from the starter relay and turn the key, relay clicks on; when key is released to "run" relay clicks off-as it should-lights stay on and everything. Connect starter and it returns to one click lights out. So I bought a new starter installed it turned the key, click and lights out. Voltage test on the "S" terminal of the starter relay turn the key to start: 12.5V. Twelve was on the alternator, distributor, and starter coil. So figured it was the starter relay, bought a new one...NOPE! Same deal! Ideas?
  12. Alright folks this is going to be the first of many posts. I am a complete NooB in every sense of the word when it comes to repairing/restoring auto anything. I am eager to get my hands dirty but I am looking for a place to start. I did my homework when it came to buying and i bought what I consider a solid 1977 Ranger package from Colorado. It has power steering, disc brakes and it is an automatic. It has the 302 and it is a runner. Brakes seem to be good and it drives straight. The plan for this project is to have as much fun driving it around with the family as possible while I fix it up. I am not looking for a show vehicle but would like to get it in good enough condition to get a decent paint job on it and make sure to seal the crap out of the entire Bronco so that it does not rust away. I am looking to keep it for a very long time. So where do I start? Do you start from the top down or the ground up? Do I spend a bunch of time on my back sanding the underneith side before I look to get it sealed or do I just seal it? What are the essential tools for starting out on a project like this? Grinder? Dremel? Orbital sander? Any advice on where to start would be much appreciated
  13. I am a new owner of an 86 bronco. The power windows and tailgate window are both not working. I checked all the fuses and wondered if the motors were blown. I am Leary of this theory because I thought it was a little weird for all 3 to be blown. The driver side switch is hooked up but there are no buttons on it. The rear window switch on the dash and passenger switch are both in good condition. Do I need to go ahead or buy new motors or is there a simple fix? Thanks -James
  14. I want to lift my 1986 Ford Bronco II 4x4 with the base trim. I don't want to overdo it, and I know that if I lift it too high, it will become much more unstable and top heavy. I need suggestions on how to combat this topheaviness, as well as low prices. Anyone who can help should! Pictures to come
  15. I need suggestions for low priced, cool add-ons/aftermarket parts for my 1986 Ford Bronco II 4x4. Currently fitted with the base trim. Pics to come
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