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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size


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About BroncoJoe19

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  1. LOL... if we had to pay a mechanic for everything that fails on 30-40 year old vesicles, they'd cost us more than they are worth.
  2. Miesk5, I'd bet that would do the trick. It's a shame that some try to upgrade and the salesman doesn't know enough about his product to properly advise the buyer.
  3. Man, that is a great looking truck! You'll be certain to turn heads at any car/truck show you take her to. Most importantly, have fun! Joe
  4. An '89 has two fuel pumps. A low pressure one in the tank, and a high pressure one on the driver's side frame rail about under his seat. You might have fuel in the tank, but you need to measure the PRESSURE at the fuel rail on top of the engine. If you don't have a pressure gauge, you can usually borrow one from a number of chain parts stores such as autozone, pep boys, or O'Reilys
  5. Yeah... moogs are what my front end mechanic recommended to me. I put a cheap tie rod end on my windstar and two years later replaced it. The original lasted 12 years.
  6. PCM stands for Powertrain Control Module (the engine's computer) In a 1992 they probably still called it EEC (I don't know what it stood for, probably something like Electronic Engine Control module) still... the engine's computer) PIP I think stands for Profile Ignition Pickup signal Did you read through the thread I linked to above?
  7. Did you put the battery in backwards? The positive cable goes to the fender mounted starter solenoid. ---------------------------------------------------------------- You may have more than one issue going on at the same time, otherwise I can't explain your symptoms. The fact that the pumps run and run is due to the fuel pump relay's coil side being grounded. That is normally grounded by the PCM for a couple of seconds, and then as long as it sees a PIP signal. Either you have a short to ground in the wire that the PCM uses to ground the Fuel pump relay or your PCM is fubar. On the other hand, it doesn't explain WHY the pump stops running when you go to START. That would point to a possible ignition switch problem. That however would not explain why it continues to run when in the ON position. You may find some helpful information in this thread. http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202246
  8. There should be a ground near the driver's left knee, on the bottom lip of the dash, check that one too.
  9. Just to be clear... when you turn the key to ON, the fuel pump runs, and runs, and runs, unless you turn the key to START?
  10. With a 1992, you can pull codes with a paperclip, you don't need a voltmeter. Does your CEL come on when you turn the key to ON? It should. Does it go off while you are cranking the engine? It should. If not, then your EEC may not be getting a PIP signal (that would explain why the fuel pump does not continue to run while cranking the engine) Pulling codes is definitely a good place to start troubleshooting.
  11. Pull Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) From your onboard computer. Your engine and transmission are computer controlled. The computer uses sensors to tell it a number of different things and it controls actuators that push or pull mechanical levers (kinda). If one or more sensors aren't working properly, the computer goes "blind" and doesn't know what to do. If the computer can "see" but one of the actuators is broken and therefore can't follow the commands of the computer; the engine won't run correctly. The computer is preprogrammed with set values for each of its sensors, and each of its actuators. It will run a self check of all systems, like the space shuttle; it will compare its set value(s) to the value(s) it recieves from its sensors, and actuators. If any sensor or acutator is out of the "normal" range the computer will generate a "code." It will generate some codes on the fly, and others will be stored while you are driving. There is a simple method to "pull codes" out of the computer for one to use for diagnostic purposes. Earlier versions of On Board Diagnostics OBD 1983-1995 can flash the error code to the dash board and can be pulled in one's driveway without any special tools. Later versions of On Board Diagnostics OBDII some 1995, and pretty much all 1996 and newer, require one to use a code reader or scanner tool. Some auto parts stores will scan your engine codes for FREE, you may want to call around. Some will scan OBDII but not the older (prior to 1996) OBD systems. SO here you go... How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway HowTo Pull Codes 1983-1995 Broncos, Mustang, F series Trucks, Econolines, 302, 351 and more
  12. Sorry... I have a mental block when it comes to the EGR. Regarding the low Vref, You might want to check a couple of grounds. Particularly from the battery to the frame and engine, look for a ground strap to the body, check the two small ones to the upper radiator support (one on the left, and one on the right) and the one to the EEC/PCM near the driver's side hood hinge.
  13. Hi Randi, I apologize, that I didn't read your first post before responding. When you said "it started shutting off while i was driving it, everything...just shut off like it was never on." Do you mean, "like someone turned the key off... even the dash lights went off"? If so, then I would really look at the battery connection to the battery side of the fender mounted starter relay. The EEC relay, and the Fuel pump relay both get power from there by way of separate fuseable links. You might try swapping relays around, or testing them. How to check a relay http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/electrical-lighting/144-howto-check-relay.html
  14. The ECM does not send power to the fuel pump, (and in an 87 you have two pumps, one in the tank and one on the driver's side frame rail). The EEC RELAY sends power to the coil side of the Fuel Pump relay, and the EEC sends a GROUND to the coil side of the fuel pump relay. That should trigger the switch side of the relay to close, and send power to the inertia switch and then onto the pumps. You might have a bad relay, or a burnt fuseable link (attached to the battery side of the fender mounted starter relay, (or it might be loose.) How to use self test connector to troubleshoot fuel pump electrical problems http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/engine-drivetrain/1396-1988-ranger-2-3l-wont-start.html Additional fuel pump diagnostics http://broncozone.com/topic/22512-no-fuel-pressure-diagnostics/
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