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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size


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About entity-unknown

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    Bronco Mechanic
  • Birthday 08/25/1982

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    Mesa, AZ

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  1. entity-unknown

    What is it? Connector by TransferCase

    I've considered that too Al and honestly I'm not left with anything else to assume since it's clearly not aftermarket. Either way thanks for the thoughts as always and I guess I finally stumped you after all these years Happy New Year to you as well!!!
  2. entity-unknown

    What is it? Connector by TransferCase

    If it was interior then it'd be connecting to something like the seat or center console but there's def no electrical options here. I must say I'm dumbfounded now cuz if there was anyone that I figured would look at that connector and have an "Oh I know what that is " moment it woulda been you. So if it didn't jog your memory, then I see a bleak road of no discovery ahead but will remain optimistic
  3. entity-unknown

    What is it? Connector by TransferCase

    Everything works as far as I know so I'm not too worried about it Just don't understand what it's for. So if someone can identify it that'd be awesome but yeah I'm still gonna drive my truck with it "disconnected".
  4. entity-unknown

    PLEASE HELP 1990 with a 302 EFI

    The items I've had cause this at various times: Plastic vacuum lines going to EFI manifolds (Rough idle, Cruise failure, other random issues ) [ All were cracked due to age/material/location. Break all lines up to 1" of connections and replace line with rubber hose ] 02 Sensor (Brand new one but I sprayed it with Carb Cleaner so Out Of Box I fried it, replacement did fix all hill climbing issues) TPS Sensor (Rough idle and general power throughout) EGR Valve (Rough idle and general power throughout) Fuel Pump In Tank and On Frame (Rough idle, loud noises, then finally no more go) Fuel Accumulator/Resevoir [Just before On Frame Fuel Pump] (Hill climbs, rough idle, fuel spraying all over the place. This was the most recent item to fail) What should be notable is that each one had it's own "Rough idle" issue
  5. entity-unknown


    Every single belt I ever put on my Bronco squeaked and I tried a variety. Also tried different soaps such as bar and dish from backyard mechanic suggestions and even tried that belt dressing stuff but they all made it significantly worse especially when it was cold out. I finally bought a Gator Belt which apparently you can only find at "GM Stores"? whatever that means. I think I was told NAPA is the place to go and might just be where I bought them. In 15 years since I bought it, it has never squeaked once nor has the belt slack changed since I marked the tensioner after installing it years ago. I bought a 2nd one and keep it in the map pocket for the back seat just in case
  6. entity-unknown

    What is it? Connector by TransferCase

    Looks like I can upload pix again so here is that connector finally. No idea what this is and those pins are not shaved off since they have an original roundness you can see including equal wear/age. I'd like to think this is a Ford OEM connector to "something" too since the clip design looks like Ford and it has a specialized shape to ensure it goes in one way. So yeah, anyone recognize what the heck this thing is?
  7. entity-unknown

    pic test

    IT WORKS AGAIN!!! Dig the new upgrade to the forum too
  8. entity-unknown

    pic test

    Same error still today :\ Error The server returned an error during upload
  9. entity-unknown

    What is it? Connector by TransferCase

    It's def a Borg Warner 1356 and I do have the one electrical connection for the shift level position sensor. So yeah I'm in the same boat. I asked about the pic issue in the Test forum but still no dice on uploading. Don't wanna maintain another account just for these pix especially because of the bandwidth issues where they show up blank like you mentioned :\ Once I'm done with the water pump I'll get back under and trace it down too. Still def wanna show what I'm talking about because I've never seen a connector like this except for maybe the ABS excitor ring sensor but this can't reach that far and pretty sure that sensor is still plugged in too but I guess I'll look again for that too.
  10. entity-unknown

    pic test

    I was able to upload pictures the other day but have not been able to upload anything of any size (78k to 2MB same pic just trying different sizes) in the last couple days. I've tried Chrome and Internet Explorer. In every situation it gives me "Error The server returned an error during upload" Is it my issue or is there something going on with the server the last couple days?
  11. The last mount point for the connector is dead center on the cross member in front of the Transfer Case. The wire continues for a couple feet suggesting it's for the Transfer Case but I only see two ports which one is already connected, and the other is for my speedo cable so not sure where this one goes. The connector itself has 3 very short contact pins, maybe 3mm long and about 2 mm wide arranged in a triangular pattern. They are not a normal spade type, just round contacts. So any thoughts? If not, I'm still gonna keep tryin to upload my pic either here or in the gallery (neither work)
  12. entity-unknown

    Lincoln Locker - Weld Front Dana 44 IFS 87 Bronco

    It will probably help to say I have a 250A TIG/Stick welder and something tells me I'm stickin this one but TIG tacks might be wise.
  13. It's time to service the front diff. I want to weld it up but I have to remove everything so I can't weld it in place i.e. I can't have the existing alignment. I imagine I should be able to set it up on the bench with the axle shafts in place to support the setup but I guess that's as best as I can figure so why not ask and maybe find someone that has done it. I've searched but I'm only finding welding it in place applications, not the D44 IFS specific setup where it has to be removed and benched for welding. Any advice/thoughts are appreciated The only thing I ask is don't tell say how it's a bad idea. I'm going to run with one manual hub locked WHEN I engage 4x4 which is almost never but will be fun off in the desert. Still it will only ever be one unless I'm stuck and then I'll suck it up, step out, and lock the other but only to get me unstuck. Then at least 1 will be unlocked and/or I'm out of 4x4 all together. I know what I'm going for, I just need advice on how to get it done successfully and keep things aligned.
  14. entity-unknown


    ABS is rear so that should not affect pulling unless it's only during turns I'd imagine. I've had several pulling situations and they came as follows: bulged tire due to age. Take em off and roll em down the drive way. If they make it to the end at least once of out three tries, and walking it feels straight, you're good otherwise you're not. Worn Radius bushings. Age. Polyurethane but it does squeak if you grease em like they tell you too. Might be worth it to leave it but they'll still squeak a lil. Bent Radius arm. Oops Steering input shaft to steering wheel after pulling steering wheel out of alignment. That lil notch is never quite spot on. Ball joints out of alignment after replacing front Springs. JBG sells some awesome adjustables to accomodate. Worn Tie Rods. Yep you need to grease em and even then they get old and take some of the most abuse in all categories. Steering gear box was weak. Replaced with RedHead and upgraded to Saginaw steering pump and it drives like a dream now after replacing all of the above. It's very fluid, a bit floaty, but precise. Bumps in the road make it more responsive.
  15. entity-unknown

    Plasti Dip'd the CARpet :)

    I was scared to do it. I really figured it'd be another project I'd ruin but I usually do get MOSTLY the results I wanted which is usually owed to research from places like this I searched for Dip'n carpet but couldn't find anyone that's done it. Either way I took the gamble and surprisingly it did turn out but certainly it's all fresh so we'll see The rubber pad below the pedals is peeling but I expected that so I'll probably remove the stuff from that area or just let it wear away. As time goes on I'll let you know how things work out but considering the nature of rubber and carpet, which is known to never come up I really think I should be good. Working with liquid latex and reading the horror stories of it getting in carpet (latex was my first thought so I could keep the natural brown color) but the horror of it getting in carpet was my exact goal since it's permanent in carpet/fibers and naturally waterproof. You can tint latex but it's more expensive by the gallon thanks to Hollywood/The Walking Dead type shows hence why I went with Plasti Dip. So yeah, it wasn't quite a fools errand; I did put several years of thought into this project and the timing with Plasti Dip's popularity (color options, price, gallons options) worked out. So really it's almost guaranteed to last a lifetime with relative proven history. The real question is would be how well will the color hold up and perhaps will I get flakes