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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

entity-unknown

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About entity-unknown

  • Rank
    Bronco Mechanic
  • Birthday 08/25/1982

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mesa, AZ

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?
    1987

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  1. entity-unknown

    87-92? AC Orifice Tube Replacement - How to

    You're welcome Mike! Your site is where I started 16 years ago and I try to help you out when I can. I even added tags I'll post a pic of my flush setup here soon too. Easy peasy cuz tools with a full rebuild puts you on a budget
  2. Hopefully this is the best pic you will ever see to explain how to replace this I searched around and sure diagrams and written explanations but sometimes a pic just helps.... You need the 1/2 plastic A/C / Fuel line disconnect tool. You also need a set of long, skinny needle nose pliers. I used Harbor Freight Item#63815 I need a 3/4 wrench and 5/8 wrench for the two disconnection points closest to the accumulator for the nuts near the radiator for the condenser. Remove the large nut suggested above with the 3/4 wrench using the 5/8 to hold onto the fixed hex nut closest to the nut you're working on for support. Use the 1/2 A/C line separator tool and slip it ON to the metal tube going to the evaporator just BELOW the larger round section at the end of the hose that goes to the condenser. Press up and seat the 1/2" A/C line separator tool into the condenser hose to you expand the spring lock ring. You'll feel it but spin it around once you feel you're good to make sure you're good. Because you were smart and disconnected the condenser line near the radiator, you can now spin the hose near the evaporator and pull up. Do it with precision and finesse and it will pop out. Don't force it or you'll bend the line and hate life. NOW you can see your orifice tube!!! If you look at an angle with a nice shiny light from above and your head isn't in the way. Yes it's kinda deep in there. Now comes the "fun". Pour some new refrigerant oil meant for your new setup and let it sit for a few minutes. 10-15 is good. Grab the top of the orifice tube down deep in there with the tips of the needle nose pliers. Keep them mostly compressed so you can grab that tiny lil tab on the top. Now comes the hardest part. Do NOT F' this up. JUST BARELY like 1/16, Twist a bit to the right then to the left. Start very gently with barely any movement. You will feel it begin to move easily and then increase then turns just a tiny lil bit more. If you exceed an 1/8 of a turn you'll probably break it and have fun extracting. Now you feel it's reasonably loose, squeeze hard on the pliers and pull STRAIGHT up. Brace yourself and try to use both arms to pull straight up because you need the most precision and both arms will offer it even if your back hates you. It will slip a few times and then pop out. Roughing up the inside tips of your new pliers will help provide some traction. I used a file and cut .5 mm separate lines with 2 cuts 1 each at opposing 45 degree angles. It will come out. Just keep trying but if you did the above it will be the easiest you'll chance you have. Have fun! So now you have it out! Just drop the new one in exactly as you see it aligned on the pic with the long red/blue part facing the sky and the short white part facing down. Hopefully that's exactly the same orientation when you pulled it too
  3. entity-unknown

    AOD Buzzing in Park when Warm

    Pretty sure the filter is good but the mention from your link about the needle bearing at the drum being bad sounds possible. It's relative to the area and I don't think it's teeth, just kinda like that sound but not really. Def thanks as always Mike!
  4. Howdy! My AOD for the last few years makes a buzzing sound when I have it in park after it's warmed up to full temp. Fluids are good. When it's stopped in any gear, no sound. Just immediately when I move to Park. It gets louder the warmer it gets but when it's at temp the sound remains consistent. It sounds like the gear toothed fly wheel would be contacting a small flap of metal. Kinda like putting cards in your spokes of a bicycle, just metal sounding and faster. I think it's something relative to how the torque converter separates? from the system but this is where my transmission skills are non existent Thoughts?
  5. entity-unknown

    rear window stuck

    Miesk always has the best advice! If you hear sound from the window motor, I usually found it to be those plastic bushings in the motor. The window is heavy so the motor wears out after all these years too. If you don't hear sound, I found that's usually a bad motor or the safety switches aren't engaged. Those lil round plastic things that go over the latches on the body are partly responsible for engaging the latch safety switch. Latching the latches? while the tailgate is down can help you with troubleshooting especially after removing that large panel to access everything. There's less gravity the window/motor will fight so this is an easy way to identify a weak vs. dead motor and also helps identify broken bushings. Careful!!! The metal arms that hold the window are spring loaded and WILL break an appendage. I had a narrow miss but damn scary...
  6. entity-unknown

    What is it? Connector by TransferCase

    I've considered that too Al and honestly I'm not left with anything else to assume since it's clearly not aftermarket. Either way thanks for the thoughts as always and I guess I finally stumped you after all these years Happy New Year to you as well!!!
  7. entity-unknown

    What is it? Connector by TransferCase

    If it was interior then it'd be connecting to something like the seat or center console but there's def no electrical options here. I must say I'm dumbfounded now cuz if there was anyone that I figured would look at that connector and have an "Oh I know what that is " moment it woulda been you. So if it didn't jog your memory, then I see a bleak road of no discovery ahead but will remain optimistic
  8. entity-unknown

    What is it? Connector by TransferCase

    Everything works as far as I know so I'm not too worried about it Just don't understand what it's for. So if someone can identify it that'd be awesome but yeah I'm still gonna drive my truck with it "disconnected".
  9. entity-unknown

    PLEASE HELP 1990 with a 302 EFI

    The items I've had cause this at various times: Plastic vacuum lines going to EFI manifolds (Rough idle, Cruise failure, other random issues ) [ All were cracked due to age/material/location. Break all lines up to 1" of connections and replace line with rubber hose ] 02 Sensor (Brand new one but I sprayed it with Carb Cleaner so Out Of Box I fried it, replacement did fix all hill climbing issues) TPS Sensor (Rough idle and general power throughout) EGR Valve (Rough idle and general power throughout) Fuel Pump In Tank and On Frame (Rough idle, loud noises, then finally no more go) Fuel Accumulator/Resevoir [Just before On Frame Fuel Pump] (Hill climbs, rough idle, fuel spraying all over the place. This was the most recent item to fail) What should be notable is that each one had it's own "Rough idle" issue
  10. entity-unknown

    TOO MANY NOISES

    Every single belt I ever put on my Bronco squeaked and I tried a variety. Also tried different soaps such as bar and dish from backyard mechanic suggestions and even tried that belt dressing stuff but they all made it significantly worse especially when it was cold out. I finally bought a Gator Belt which apparently you can only find at "GM Stores"? whatever that means. I think I was told NAPA is the place to go and might just be where I bought them. In 15 years since I bought it, it has never squeaked once nor has the belt slack changed since I marked the tensioner after installing it years ago. I bought a 2nd one and keep it in the map pocket for the back seat just in case
  11. entity-unknown

    What is it? Connector by TransferCase

    Looks like I can upload pix again so here is that connector finally. No idea what this is and those pins are not shaved off since they have an original roundness you can see including equal wear/age. I'd like to think this is a Ford OEM connector to "something" too since the clip design looks like Ford and it has a specialized shape to ensure it goes in one way. So yeah, anyone recognize what the heck this thing is?
  12. entity-unknown

    pic test

    IT WORKS AGAIN!!! Dig the new upgrade to the forum too
  13. entity-unknown

    pic test

    Same error still today :\ Error The server returned an error during upload
  14. entity-unknown

    What is it? Connector by TransferCase

    It's def a Borg Warner 1356 and I do have the one electrical connection for the shift level position sensor. So yeah I'm in the same boat. I asked about the pic issue in the Test forum but still no dice on uploading. Don't wanna maintain another account just for these pix especially because of the bandwidth issues where they show up blank like you mentioned :\ Once I'm done with the water pump I'll get back under and trace it down too. Still def wanna show what I'm talking about because I've never seen a connector like this except for maybe the ABS excitor ring sensor but this can't reach that far and pretty sure that sensor is still plugged in too but I guess I'll look again for that too.
  15. entity-unknown

    pic test

    I was able to upload pictures the other day but have not been able to upload anything of any size (78k to 2MB same pic just trying different sizes) in the last couple days. I've tried Chrome and Internet Explorer. In every situation it gives me "Error The server returned an error during upload" Is it my issue or is there something going on with the server the last couple days?
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