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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Rons beast

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About Rons beast

  • Rank
    Supreme Commander
  • Birthday 01/19/1956

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Florida..in my mind , sitting on the beach
  • Interests
    sleeping, eating, building something, repeat.

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  1. Wishing all my Bronco Brothers as Safe and Merry Christmas and Happy healthy New Year! Ron
  2. I'm guessing that it will be a luxo/ cab for wannabe off roaders and expensive as M5 said.
  3. Hey Chuck, Proportioning valves are not serviceable for us home mechs....and with a problem such as you describe the valve would not be the culprit. It could cause other problems such as sticking or uneven braking but not a low or soft pedal. As Bully eluded: Your issue is either air trapped in the system, ( did you bench bleed the MC)? or a faulty master cylinder, and/ or brakes far out of adjustment. Good Luck
  4. Hey Bob...Happy belated Birthday.
  5. My #1 question is ...Why? It appears that you are building a show truck. If so you need to understand that in the course of making things bright and shinny you may have to compromise in other areas. I.E. the plated rod ends will look great, but may not have their best use or longest service in heavy off roading or racing. Same goes with the caliper brackets.I don't think the welds are compromised, ( just my thought, not any guarantee.) You can clean off the rust in the bolt threads. If it is superficial I think it's a non issue as Bully has said. The rod ends could be drilled, tapped and zerk fittings installed to grease them. ( The permanent grease is not viable any longer anyway.) What is your intended use for your Bronc?
  6. If the vacuum gauge is steady the valves and internals should be good. Try switching the #8 plug wire with another wire to see if the missing cylinder changes. I'm thinking the the problem is the plug wire. Better to do the easy stuff before getting into the engine.
  7. Hey E, welcome, Check the fuses and the fuse panel. The ignition switch gets its power from a red wire with light green stripe. ( on these old trucks the wire could have been spliced by the previous owner) . There could be a poor connection between the fuse block inner and outer halves. Check the fuses first. Good luck
  8. Have you hooked up a vacuum gauge to engine vacuum? What does the needle do?
  9. Drivers and passenger side not likely to be a swap.
  10. My 96 had a lever that pivoted the back forward and moved the seat forward as well. (As I remember). I didn't like to use it because it meant i had to readjust the driver seat to my liking each time. I think it was smaller and down by the pivot hinge. I don't know if it was an Eddie Bauer option ( I could be totally wrong.....I sold The Beast and it could be a false memory)
  11. What does the #8 plug look like?
  12. Hey krbjr, I've been thinking of your problem and would like to take an analytical approach to it. I would ignore the codes for now. (They could be the result of the initial problem and the backfire) I'm sure you did a visual check of the vacuum lines and wiring and such. Also check the battery connections at the battery and starter and solenoid. especially the grounds. Since you had the solenoid seize I'm thinking there may be an issue with connections. If they are all ok try the following checks in order: 1- check that #1 is indeed at TDC of the intake stroke. (your systems sound like a timing issue with it being 180 out......How, we will address after we find out ) assuming the timing is ok: 2-connect a test light between the + and - terminals on the coil. ( they HAVE to be connected at the coil for a proper test) Verify 12v at the + side with the key on. Crank the engine and watch for a flash of the test light in a good rhythm with the cranking speed. If the light flashes with good rhythm. assume the primary circuit is good and the coil is getting a proper "fire" signal. If not the problem is in the primary ignition system and could be poor grounding that isn't transferred through the ICM to the coil. Or a bad ICM or Dist. pick up, or wiring to the same. Remove the dist cap, disconnect the + wire from the coil for safety and crank the engine. Observe the rotor. Is it turning in rhythm with the engine? If it is move to 3. If not, the dist gear or cam gear or timing chain is the problem. 3- If primary ignition circuit and dist is good, reconnect the cap and coil primary wire. Disconnect the secondary coil wire at the dist. carefully hold it close to a ground and crank the engine. Check spark. Good strong spark in a good rhythm to the engine cranking clears the coil. Not good= malfunctioning coil. 4- if coil is good, reconnect the wire and do the same check at #1 plug. Repeat for all other wires. If all is good, pull the plugs and observe. Shake and turn each with electrode down. ( I had found plugs that had broken electrodes that would be pushed up into place under the compression stroke only to fall down against the ground during the power stroke and cause a miss. looking at the plug upside down showed no problem. I know bizarre, but its worth the check. ) If all is good, you can eliminate the ignition system as being the problem. Post results here and we will move on. I know its tedious, but its good to know what isn't the problem and eliminate them rather than "shoot in the dark" Good Luck
  13. What do you primarily use the truck for? If you remove the diff/ axle for any reason it would be prudent to have it professionally realigned unless you are using it off road only. Then you could do the poor mans toe set and move on. I see no advantage to welding the diff... other than having the satisfaction that you have a welded diff.
  14. Welcome Kr, Actually fuel injection is very simple once you get to know the components. Much more simple than carbs. What issues specifically are you having with your Bronc?
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