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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size


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About Broncobill78

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  • Birthday 01/01/1968

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    Treasure Coast, Florida
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    78/79 Broncos

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  1. The valley pan is a crush gasket kind of think so it really isn't reusable. As I understand it the purpose of the pan is to keep the hot oil off the bottom of the intake. People go both ways with these, either using a "standard" gasket set or a new valley pan. If you go with a new pan don't use the cork/rubber end pieces of the gasket set & just run a bead of silicone. Don't use any silicone on the valley pan flanges as it will eventually cook off from the heat & you'll have vacuum leaks. I've heard of guys using copper sprayseal and reusing valley pans but have no experience with it myself.
  2. You should be able to find 33's in 14" or 15" widths. You might be able to use what you have now depending on how wide your current rims are, you'll have to ck with the tire shops to be sure the tires you choose will fit the rims you have (the rims you have now might not be wide enough to run the tires you choose, can't really say without knowing what you have). On the other hand you can keep the 12.50's and swap to a rim with different backspacing that pushes them out more, but again you'd have to ck with the tire & rim shop/website to see just how much backspacing you can get & how much is available on rims that you like. Backspacing is one of those variables that changes a lot. Some rim mfg's offer a lot of options & others don't. You'll have to find a rim you like & see how much backspacing it's available with & if it isn't enough you'll just have to keep looking until you find a style you like that's available with enough backspace to get the look you want. There are a number of ways to get the look you're wanting.
  3. I don't have a 95' handy to refer to so I'm not really sure just where the O2 sensor is located on yours and that's what counts. Most that I have seen have the sensor mounted upstream (in front) of the cat. If that's the case with yours then no, it won't be an issue install the new exhaust pieces and be done with it, but like many others I'd recommend replacing it rather than just slapping in a straight-pipe. If you live in a state with any sort of emissions testing there's no way you'll ever pass without it and if/when you go to sell the truck it may become an issue to the buyer. If the O2 sensor is located either in the converter itself or downstream (behind) of it then you'll encounter some problems. First will be the ck engine light, the computer uses input from the O2 sensor to help it decide how rich or lean to run the truck so if you remove the sensor (or even change it's location or the length of the sensor wiring in some cases) the computer will either default into "limp home" mode or do something unpredictable with your fuel map. chances are it will err on the side of caution & run the thing pig rich dumping smoke out the exhaust when you hit the throttle & killing your mileage.
  4. Wheel spacers are a bad idea in general but particularly so with trucks. They're fairly popular with the guys in the go-fast crowd, especially with imports (1700lb cars with 13" tires) but just because others get away with using them doesn't make it a good idea. The size & weight of our tires works against you as well as the abuse that a lot of trucks see off-road. They're *really* hard on front wheel bearings. As previously mentioned the way to get the look you want is with physically wider tires and rims with enough backspacing to move the tire out farther. Personally I've never seen the attraction of that look or what's cool about making your truck look like giant water-bug. I know it works for the S-10 guys but I just don't get it. For the Bronco's I like a 35" tire with a width in the 14"-to-17" range with a 6" lift and a set of flares that's the look I've always liked. A tire 14" wide lets you get away with a standard set of flares (unless the local law-enforcement types tend to let that sort of thing slide in which case you can get away without needing flares) and something 17"/18" gets you into Bushwhacker territory. I've run 38.5x17 Ground Hawgs with only a 2" suspension lift and Bushwhacker cut-out flares (the lift was installed when I got the truck, since it was something of a beater to drive while finishing another project I just ran the tires/rims I had on-hand, left the suspension alone & traded an old 351M/C6 combo for the bushwhackers) and the truck looked pretty damn good. What you have to remember here is that by introducing a spacer between the rim & the drum/rotor you create a lever effect that puts tremendous strain on the wheel studs which is why you frequently see them break or see the lug nuts repeatedly loosen & back off. Loctite treats the symptom but does nothing about the underlying problem. There *is* no way to get around it which is why the factory, OEM suppliers and reputable shops never use them. Unfortunately wheel spacers are sorta like front lift blocks, they're a bad idea and inherently unsafe but you'll always be able to find *someone* out there who'll tell you that they ran them for years and never ad a problem. Using wheel spacers on a 3-ton truck is just plain ole' bad ju-ju, no two ways about it.
  5. Need more info. Just *how* does the truck die when this happens ? Does the engine just quit like you turned the key off (indicating that it's maybe an electrical/ignition issue that's killing the spark) or does it sputter & surge then die (pointing towards more of a fuel issue instead of something ignition/electrical in nature) ? You said the fuel pump & filter were good, have they been replaced recently ? If so how about the in-tank filter/strainer ? Those can get clogged up & cause fuel starvation problems that resolve as soon as the engine dies & the suction stops but once you restart it the problem comes right back. Someone else will have to double check me on this, but as I recall, the 1990's have just the single in-tank fuel pump right ? Not the dual pump (low pressure in-tank feed pump & high-pressure framerail mounted booster pump) arrangement that the 87/88's have right ? If you *do* have the dual pumps then that's obviously something to look at. Is this a constant problem or intermittent ? Is it stalling when the engine is cold, after it's been driven awhile and is hot or under both conditions ? Off the top of my head the fuel pump relay comes to mind. What's the history of the truck, what problems/repairs has it had in the past ? Any work been done to it recently ? When is stalls does it restart easily & will it only restart the once or are you able to restart it a few times before it packs it in & quits. Does it seem to restart more easily if you wait 10-15 minutes ? Does it refuse to restart if you try it immediately ? Is there a pattern to this or does it all seem completely random ? Just one last comment, thanks for joining the site it's always great when new people come in and everyone loves knowing there's another Bronco-guy out there Something that's helpful here is to add the info about your truck (year, engine, transmission, modifications, etc) to your signature so it automatically gets added to each post. This gives others the basic info about your truck that we would otherwise have to ask about. Glad to have you here, don't be shy about asking for help, suggestions or moral support
  6. Just a personal opinion but I'd run with the pro-jection setup for the 351M, primarily because you say what's most important to you is the ability to tow. The H.O. is a great motor for the LSC or a Mustang/Cougar but it's really not setup as a towing engine. Add to that the fact that there was never a 302 option for the 78/79's so it's not really a bolt-in deal. To use the 302 as a tow motor in that truck you're looking at a new cam, new flexplate, a different bellhousing (302 & 351M have different bolt patterns) and some 302 motor mounts from a 73-79 F-series. Not that any of it is high-dollar stuff but add it all up AND toss in the time & effort to pull two engines & install the 302 and all it's associated wiring and I'd be inclined to stick with a solid running 351M and add the throttle body EFI which will increase your hp, torque & mileage. You'll spend roughly the same amount of cash and save a whole bunch of time & banged-up knuckles. Just my two cents.
  7. Are we maybe talking about the air bypass valve ? I know it's got a gasket between the valve & throttle body but I don't recall it tapping into the coolant passages in the throttle body. Dunno, without a better photo it's hard to say but the bypass valve could look like a sensor sorta thing & it IS on the righthand side of the throttle body.
  8. small amounts of oil usually look black, if it's burning a lot of oil the smoke tends to look more blueish. Old engine oil that has a lot of contaminants & old fuel (usually from worn rings) can do that but they're just guidelines & subject to interpretation
  9. I can't quite be sure from the pic but are you talking about the throttle body (the large rectangular thingie with the two butterfly valves)? The throttle body has a small diameter (3/8" or so) hose that runs to it carrying coolant. I believe it's to warm it up for cold starts in winter. They do leak from time to time. To the best of my knowledge that tube isn't really a replaceable item, it's part of the throttle body assembly. I'd take the hose off to get a better look at it. I might just be an old hose that needs replacing or a new/tightened hose clamp. If the tube on the throttle body *is* trashed you could try cutting it back to get to good tubing or using a new longer hose that you can work up past the rotted part
  10. You'll need the intake & carb but the electric fuel pumps in the truck (feed pump in the fuel tank & the high pressure pump on the framerail) produce too much pressure for a carb. You *might* get away with stepping it down through an adjustable fuel pressure regulator but I always seem to hear that guys who go that route aren't happy with it and wind up up swapping over to either a mechanical pump or a low pressure electric designed to work with a carb. You'll also need a duraspark distributor & matching ignition module. Your current distributor & ECM are designed to work with the fuel injection (the distributor gets it's signals from the ECM and the ECM won't sent out the trigger signals if it doesn't see the injectors) So, in a nutshell what you need to do is swap in an intake, carb, distributor, ignition module & a low pressure electric fuel pump and you're good to go. I'm in the process of helping a friend convert an 88' to a carb, scroll over one page in this forum & you'll find the thread "converting an 88' to carb" (sorry, tried to paste the link but this new version of FireFox doesn't let me right-click anything anymore, arrrgh) http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18694 Hah, figured out how to insert it Unless someone swapped transmissions you've got an AOD which will run just fine regardless of fuel system since it's a mechanical 4-speed. The later AOD-E/E4OD uses the ECM to lockup the torque converter for overdrive and that *would* be a problem for you but you don't have one so it's not a problem. The AOD is a good transmission and you'll be fine.
  11. As Joe said, white smoke is steam. If it's gone after a few min of driving then it's just condensation in the exhaust & perfectly normal, particularly in cold climates. If it *doesn't* go away then you need to look for the source which is usually a head gasket. Black smoke is oil or fuel that generally comes from something like worn valve seals, piston rings or a carb that's running rich Gray smoke is usually transmission fluid coming from something like a blown modulator valve.
  12. Couple questions, *where* are you measuring the oil pressure ? From the port right above the fuel pump or from the top/rear of the block ? In the past I've found it useful to put 2 gauges on to see what the pressure is right above the pump as well as at the top rear of the block. Also, did you by chance change/replace the pushrods ? I had a no pressure problem with a 460 I built that wound up being caused by new pushrods that were fractionally too long, they weren't letting the lifters pump up so I had no top-end pressure. Just a thought.
  13. I've got a friend who's lost his patience troubleshooting his EFI and wants to convert his 88' over to a carb. Never actually having retrofitted one before I wanted to ck with anyone who's done it to see what we need. Obviously we need the intake & carb as well as a durasparkII distributor & ignition module, but what else ? I don't know if the 88's even have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump anymore, how about bypassing the HP pump & using the LP fuel pump w/a regulator ? Or is it better to just run a new elec fuel pump meant to feed a carb ? Any help will be appreciated.
  14. Look on the axles and you should find the "BOM" or Bill Of Materials number stamped on them which is pretty much the number that tells you what the axle is & what it was originally equipped on. Once you have that number ck it against the many other BOM's listed in the Dana 60 & 70 manuals I'm attaching and that will tell you what it came out of, what the gear ratio was & what type of differential it had. D60_manual.pdf D70_manual.pdf
  15. Swapping to a 4bbl intake is the best way to go. There *are* 2bbl-to-4bbl adapters out there but without the proper intake you're kinda pissin' in the wind. I wouldn't bother with it. As far as size goes I'd stick with 500-550cfm for a small block. I ran a 750 on a reasonably well built 460 and had to jet it down 3 times before I got it running well. Even a 500 is a lot for a 351M/400 unless it's running a decent size cam & has modified heads. If it's a basically stock engine then I'd either stick with a *new* 2bbl or a very small 4bbl. Bolting a larger carb on really doesn't do anything other than drop your mileage & kill performance. Combined with other upgrades it can help but all on it's own I'd say it's a bad idea.
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