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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Bully Bob

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About Bully Bob

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    TOP GUN
  • Birthday November 21

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Boulder City, Nevada (Las Vegas area)
  • Interests
    Going nose-to-grill with GIANT Bulls here in the high desert.
    Hence-forth my given C.B. trail handle;
    "Bully Bob"

    Hot women, 4x4'n, flying homebuilts -- or -- a nice Super Cub !

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?
    6677

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  1. Most panels are lined with a sealant type gasket & then spot welded.The welds have to be punched or drilled out. Sure seems like a lot of $$ ...... I might be tempted to get a new fiberglass body. Bronco Graveyard has a sheet metal "body blow-up" in their catalog.
  2. M5 put these addresses in for you. If you talk to Toms Bronco Parts and www.wildhorses4x4.com maybe even Bronco graveyard...., They've done this type of work (labor) & can give ya an indication as to a fair price (or ballpark) for your rig. I would call them. I myself haven't a clue what these services cost these days. Do keep us posted as to what you find out........ B https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Steel-Body/products/124/ https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/category/66-77-bronco-body-panels
  3. Hi PJ.., Hard to tell W/O seeing it. There's an old school repair called "leading-in" . That's what all the repairs were done with 'til "Bondo" came to be. Really bad places can be cleaned & patched if the structural strength is still OK. You can't do the Bondo patch work yourself..?? That's a lot of $$ ...! What's your intended use for this rig..? If it's out 4x4'n ..., a perfect paint/finish isn't all that necessary. I've patched/painted many & I'm NO expert..!! Nobody ever noticed. Mostly learned as I go. B
  4. Hi PJ.., Good to hear fr. you..!!! Go on www.craigslist.com You may see some 1/2 cabs there to compare too. It's pretty much what-ever you can get.., and, what the market may be there in Texas... Good luck & stay on board....✌️
  5. WOW nice find..!! I,m jealous....., Sorry to see you go however, this site has an F-150 page as well. You can check-in there if you like. Enjoy your new project...! Looks like a great start. Bob
  6. Hi wesside.., good job...!! Because that's a tough job starting from scratch. Here's a wiring diagram. The way I understand it.., there should be no voltage with key "off" ---- 6v with key in "on" (aka "run") position" 12v when key is turned to "start" . Is the key switch wired correctly..? Hope this helps.... B
  7. Forget that..., I just looked in an old book. The primary valve is on the "rear" of the MC. The secondary is on the "front". I'm assuming the rear brakes are the secondary. As for the proportioning valve..., I'm not sure. Maybe when installing the lines, they will line up with the correct holes on the valve. (assuming they're orig. hard lines)
  8. WOW..! Great look'n rig..!!! Sounds good...., Good job.
  9. I don't think it much matters.., the weather is warm so I'd drain it, put in the new oil & pour a bit in the new filter (not much 'cause it sits on an angle.) & go for it. A strong charged batt. helps. Again, a helper to watch for anything unusual while cranking/starting.
  10. Hi Skip, welcome..., Ditto M5's advice.., however you could give a bit more info. to help us help you. i.e. "will not start" could mean eng. doesn't turn over when you turn the key to "start". OR it could mean the eng. spins when you turn the key but does not "come to life/fire up"..!! A few drops of fuel down the throat of the carb., then turn the key (assuming the eng. rotates) will tell you if it's a fuel or ignition issue. If it attempts to run.., it's not the ignition..., it's a fuel issue. No fire.., it's ignition issue. Have you R&R;d distributors B/4..? you may have it in 180deg. off or somewhere in between. Can you give us some info. about your mech. experience..? And, any other info. about your rig & any other mods relating to engine setup..? Assume this is a V/8.., is it auto or stick.? Is it a stock 302, etc. (I'm not sure what a "Duro spark box" is) (Is this an Autozone ignition module.?) Point being, it's really tough to solve these issues without knowing the specifics. Don't give up.., it's probably a simple fix.
  11. Chuck., www.tomsbroncoparts.com has your Junction Block +-$85 Part # 2635 PH #(541) 779-1339 I don't think this one., or your current one is re-buildable or made to be taken apart. (they will know)
  12. By me.., I've not done this task. Maybe someone who has will chime in. (I didn't know they were serviceable, as in being able to be taken apart.)
  13. KEWL..!!!! We here won't give up on ya..., it's probable just some little thing.... Those brakes should put ya thru the windshield...
  14. My bad.., mine has no adj. either. (must have been the Land Cruisers) Where you're at now.., sounds like the M/C still has issues. When I do drum brakes.., I put the drums on with the shoes lightly rubbing the drum when turning the drum by hand. That way, you don't have to mess with that adjustment tool. (they will break-in soon anyway) That's the only other thing that would cause what you describe. (way too loose shoes) EXCEPT.., you can get a new/faulty M/C these days. PS When you bled the wheel cyl. did you do right rear, left rear, right front, left front..? (this usually insures no air in the lines.) WHEN are we gonna see some (resto-rig) pics...?????
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