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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Bully Bob

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About Bully Bob

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  • Birthday November 21

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  • Location
    Boulder City, Nevada (Las Vegas area)
  • Interests
    Going nose-to-grill with GIANT Bulls here in the high desert.
    Hence-forth my given C.B. trail handle;
    "Bully Bob"

    Hot women, 4x4'n, flying homebuilts -- or -- a nice Super Cub !

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  1. 6cyl v8 swap

    Wellll..., maybe you've already discovered this ---- V/8 eng., pwr. steering, & discs require a very deep wallet. For example, V/8 swap requires everything changed from radiator to driveshaft front joint. EXCEPT for the transfer case. For starters, I would recommend a compression/leak-down test on your I-6. Those results will give you info. needed to move on. (you can rent free the tools to do this test.., or have it done) Freshening up the I-6 may be the best investment. Disc brakes usually req. power brakes as more pressure is needed. (this also can be expensive) Freshening up the drums, etc, would be 1/4 the price.., maybe even less. Power steering runs approx. $800 - $1000
  2. 6cyl v8 swap

    Skitter is right..., 302 (& sometimes a 351) is the most common change-out. I would add.., I've had 4 EB's with the V/8 along with my present '66 with the I-6 (one V/8 had the A/T) You see which one I kept..!! Just noticed this new board format wiped out the signatures..? And, the gallery. Hmmmmmm....., I'm going to have to re-think how to answer these questions from now on... I'll have to get back to ya......, Long/short.., keep it the way it is with just a few mods.
  3. The '66 year model (most) has the vin tag on the driver side kick-panel.., just left of the clutch pedal.
  4. Dana 30 king pin covers

    Hmmmm.., You're ahead of me there..!! I've not done mine as yet as they were solid/in good shape when I bought my rig. I'm assuming you're talking about the square piece after the 4 bolts are out.., not the bolts themselves. How 'bout twisting with a large spanner wrench.? http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com & http://www.Wildhorses4x4.com have the kits (everything you need) including the dampers, etc. You might call them..., they might know a good way to pop them lose..... Do let us know what works....
  5. Hi Christy.., welcome..! The actual cable is a hardened steel wire so to speak. The other end is formed in a corkscrew/pig-tail type of connector. It just slips on the actuator peg. You should be able to put it back in place. "...control knob for the temperature" If you're calling out the "correct" knob., this one runs out to a valve on the pass. side valve cover. These valves have a short life in some cases soooo.., that may be the real problem here. Other cables run to heater box. defroster, trap doors.etc. Let me know what you find.
  6. Then it is likely the sender.., or a dead short in the sender wire.
  7. Well..., that's not a real good way. Normal eng. temps are 180-190 deg. Trying to touch anything under there (eng., radiator, etc) would cause one to yank their hand back reeeeeal quick..., let alone an over heated engine. Harbor Fright has a (+-$20) lazer temp reader that comes in handy all over the house & garage. BTW., is the temp needle pegged or just reading high (i.e. somewhere above normal) ..? A high reading often indicates a falty thermostat.
  8. Hi Tavar., welcome..!! You can try replacing your sending unit on the engine. They can get dirty, leak &/or just plain fail. However, how are you determining that it is, in fact, not overheating..?
  9. 1976 Bronco Door Hard to Open

    Well.., like most 40+ year old rides.., things ware down. Could be the hinge pins are worn, causing a bind. (door hanging too low) Or, the outside door handle Mechanism is worn in several places. You could open up the pass. side panel and have a look to see what's different. Keep us posted... B
  10. Hardware plating question

    I don't see any possible issues with what you've described. HOWEVER... don't have a clue what this means..? "Got some self lubricating rod ends nickel plated and now it’s no longer greased and difficult to manipulate tho not impossible,"
  11. Swapping 3 speed manual for four speed manual

    Hi 55.., welcome...! All your current parts are good. Your post is a bit vague. What experience do you have..? What RU going to do with this rig..? Where RU..? "I would like a four speed" WHY..? It's a bit of mod work & (IMHO) serves little purpose in a 4x4 road/off road rig. Get the #'s & letters off the trannie..., The tag is on the pass. side. 351 is fine except for some cooling issues from time to time. 302 will likely give you all the engine you will ever need. Give up as much info. as you can, even if you think it's unnecessary. This will allow much better help from our members. (& rid of a whole lot of guessing)
  12. c4 transmission removal tips

    Hi Ken.., welcome..!! Sounds like you're refering to the bellhousing bolts.? Ya.., it's a bit tight. They (the top ones) can be reached with a box-end wrench, while crawling on top of the eng. OR., remove the (4 or 5) bolts that hold the trannie to the back of the bellhousing. In either case, support the weight at the back of the eng. so it doesn't drop down. (As you may know, the rear motor mounts are on the trannie/transfer adaptor.) Meaning the rear of the eng. is just "floating" once the trannie is removed. The trannie/transf. is a "heavy package". Soooo., be careful. A transmission jack is pretty much a necessity.

    Forgot to mention.., that's a good carb when rebuilt right, Also., what you describe could be a faulty/dirty needle-n-seat (fuel inlet) OR a sticking float. All an easy fix.

    Hi Jay.., welcome..!! Awesome rig..!!! WE NEVER GIVE UP HERE..!! You didn't mention what you did AFTER each issue...? Flooded condition will have an obvious "smell" --- in the eng. bay., and at the exhaust. Fuel starved.., Eng. will start with "either" spray (starting fluid) --- carry a can with you. How's your tank & fuel lines..?? If the tank is full of crud.., on a long run, crud can plug the fuel screen in the tank. Then tend to drop the crud when suction is gone. "vapor locking" Is your eng. runn'n hot..?? Fuel pump is easy to test.., auto parts stores loan free testers. If fuel/air mixture is found to be correct; If the "reluctor" is failing.. ('lil bolt-in thingie in the distributor) it will do as you describe. Ya., a coil will/can fail ---- usually when old & there's "heat" --- then work when it's cold. More often., they fail completly. Keep us posted..... B
  15. Gas Gauge not working?

    Hi Hotfeet.., welcome... Yes..., This diagram is from a 1967 Factory manual. (assuming that's a copy of my post in the past) His is a '70 catalog but is the same...............