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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Bully Bob

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About Bully Bob

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    TOP GUN
  • Birthday November 21

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    Male
  • Location
    Boulder City, Nevada (Las Vegas area)
  • Interests
    Going nose-to-grill with GIANT Bulls here in the high desert.
    Hence-forth my given C.B. trail handle;
    "Bully Bob"

    Hot women, 4x4'n, flying homebuilts -- or -- a nice Super Cub !

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?
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  1. "Is the longer nose pump only a 1/4" difference?" This I don't know. This pulley would be "used" parts-----not shown in catalogs. Call Toms OR Wildhorses tomorrow. I'm sure they can help.., or send you in the right direction. Also., do we have the original harmonic balancer/crank pulley on there..? They would know this also. (I think some had two sheaves, if memory serves) HTH Bob
  2. Hi Project..., Hmmmm.., A bit more info please......, Assuming you're measuring on the vehicle. 1) You might try removing the pulley to be sure there's no "shim" or "Spacer" stuck in there on the nose of the pump. 2) Ford had (as I recall) a couple diff. pumps available for a 302..., some had a longer nose. (could be the longer one in this case) 3) Is it poss. he pulled a (transplanted) 351 from that '74 ...? 4) Is it a 3-hole mount or a 4-hole...? Some center holes are diff. as well. 5) Wrecking yards have many Ford pulleys.., as do Tomsbroncoparts.com & wildhorses4x4.com
  3. Ya., a freeze plug is very likely.., beings it gets cold there. However., if the eng. was replaced., those would be new(er). Other possibilities; head gasket failure, warped head, cracked head, intake manifold gasket, cracked block. Seems obvious to me, that's why he's selling it. He has to know it's leaking..!! Have him fess-up..!! He likely knows what & where it's leaking from.
  4. Hi.., Ya.., there's always other issues to deal with when you make a change/mod. The new intake & carb. sit higher & air filt. won't clear the hood. The linkage will need mods. Exhaust back pressure.., or the lack, of can affect tuning. The smaller Edelbrock (spell) is the most popular I would guess. My thoughts are; unless you do a lot of high-speed freeway driving, it could be rare that you ever get into the back two barrels. There's hood scoops that allow filter clearance. Also aft. market "flat" filters that might help if they clear the linkage. Give us more info. on your intensions & how your rig is equipped.., that would help us help you..... B
  5. ALSO, if you do decide to "do a lift" ---- go with the 11 pack rear leaf kits. That's what I did & the ride is as good or better than stock. LIKE www.tomsbroncoparts.com or www.wildhorses4x4.com Keep in mind a lift brings about other changes.., several things like front end alignment, caster, drag-link, rear-end/driveshaft angle, etc. Sometimes the brake lines & emergency brake cables need changing. It's all doable.., just takes time & patience..... B
  6. You can measure the distance between the ground & frame compared to a stock rig...., the top & bottom of the coil spring seats. Dist. between the rear axle & the frame, etc. Also, ask auto parts store what the fully extended length is for a "stock" front shock is & compare to yours fully extended. The body mounts aren't blown out (at least the one showing) ..., that surface cracking is normal. BTW., the radius arm "donut" bushings can be poly or rubber. (rubber flexing better) From that front end view., it doesn't look like it's been lifted. Rear leaf springs look stock with maybe an overload bottom leaf.
  7. As to rubber or poly.., Rubber is a smother ride & better flex. It lasts 20-30 yrs. Poly is a bit stiffer & lasts longer...., It's owners choice. Body mounts the same. However, they don't have to be done at the same time as suspension. Whole different job. Suspension can be a bit dangerous..!! You'll need plenty of jacks & jack-stands, wheel chocks, etc, safety is key. However, it's not hard, just take your time. What's wrong with your current suspension..? Looks like you already have a lift........
  8. TKS for the up-date PJ.., I think that's a good decision. Cleaning up the "bad spots" ----- then treating some areas with rust-stop chemicals ---- then re-bondoing is a common repair. On line or even library books can get you started. If this was to be a "show truck" then spending big $$$$ would likely be the path to take.
  9. Most panels are lined with a sealant type gasket & then spot welded.The welds have to be punched or drilled out. Sure seems like a lot of $$ ...... I might be tempted to get a new fiberglass body. Bronco Graveyard has a sheet metal "body blow-up" in their catalog.
  10. M5 put these addresses in for you. If you talk to Toms Bronco Parts and www.wildhorses4x4.com maybe even Bronco graveyard...., They've done this type of work (labor) & can give ya an indication as to a fair price (or ballpark) for your rig. I would call them. I myself haven't a clue what these services cost these days. Do keep us posted as to what you find out........ B https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Steel-Body/products/124/ https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/category/66-77-bronco-body-panels
  11. Hi PJ.., Hard to tell W/O seeing it. There's an old school repair called "leading-in" . That's what all the repairs were done with 'til "Bondo" came to be. Really bad places can be cleaned & patched if the structural strength is still OK. You can't do the Bondo patch work yourself..?? That's a lot of $$ ...! What's your intended use for this rig..? If it's out 4x4'n ..., a perfect paint/finish isn't all that necessary. I've patched/painted many & I'm NO expert..!! Nobody ever noticed. Mostly learned as I go. B
  12. Hi PJ.., Good to hear fr. you..!!! Go on www.craigslist.com You may see some 1/2 cabs there to compare too. It's pretty much what-ever you can get.., and, what the market may be there in Texas... Good luck & stay on board....✌️
  13. WOW nice find..!! I,m jealous....., Sorry to see you go however, this site has an F-150 page as well. You can check-in there if you like. Enjoy your new project...! Looks like a great start. Bob
  14. Hi wesside.., good job...!! Because that's a tough job starting from scratch. Here's a wiring diagram. The way I understand it.., there should be no voltage with key "off" ---- 6v with key in "on" (aka "run") position" 12v when key is turned to "start" . Is the key switch wired correctly..? Hope this helps.... B
  15. Forget that..., I just looked in an old book. The primary valve is on the "rear" of the MC. The secondary is on the "front". I'm assuming the rear brakes are the secondary. As for the proportioning valve..., I'm not sure. Maybe when installing the lines, they will line up with the correct holes on the valve. (assuming they're orig. hard lines)
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