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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Bully Bob

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About Bully Bob

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  • Birthday November 21

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    Boulder City, Nevada (Las Vegas area)
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    Going nose-to-grill with GIANT Bulls here in the high desert.
    Hence-forth my given C.B. trail handle;
    "Bully Bob"

    Hot women, 4x4'n, flying homebuilts -- or -- a nice Super Cub !

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  1. That's a tough one.., I think the 1st thing I would do is jot down the block #'s & show them to Ford parts counter clerk. If it's truly a performance trans-plant motor, that would tell you & also the year. If it's the original 302 block..., it's possible the performance mods aren't compatible. Meaning the cam, lifters, pushrods, & roller-rockers. I think some cams are stamped on the timing gear end. (would req. removal of timing chain cover.) I believe block #'s are above & to the right of the starter. There's #'s on the intake manifold as well that might help. It could be something simple.., like wrong length pushrods.
  2. Hi Frank.., Un-clear, are they related..? Meaning did the noise began AFTER the T-chain cover change..? A "knock" is a "deeper" sound than a ticking or tapping sound. The latter is usually a rocker arm or lifter. You can find it by removing one plug wire at a time (eng. runn'n of course). The noise will quit or lessen on the subject cylinder. Was the timing chain OK..? i.e. NOT sloppy loose.
  3. I know I feel better..!! TKS for the update....
  4. Wellll.., you've jogged my memory..! That looks like a "GRANT" wheel & horn assembly. It appears both those spring loaded pins ride on the same copper ring..?? Seems it would need two seperate rings..? Tightening those 3 shoulder bolts too tight can warp the plates & cause issues. www.grantproducts.com likely could help. (Glendale Calif.) Even if I took my wheel/horn assy. apart.., I couldn't figure why yours in honking W/O pushing the horn button. You've got me stumped...........
  5. As I see it, there would have to be TWO wires frayed ---- 1 hot (12v) wire & the other, the wire that goes down to the actual horn. i.e. those two wires rubbing together............... The odds of this are VERY unlikely. "MURPHY'S LAW" states, if there's a frayed 12v wire.., it will short to ground..., & blow a fuse..!!
  6. Do let us know what you find.., this is a real mystery., seeing as how it's a new wiring kit & new(er) str. wheel assy.
  7. "......there are two wires which connected to the back of the horn button" YES.., of course., the horn button is simply a "switch" when pressed, it allows 12v to pass thru it to wire that runs back down to the honker-horn... If you took the button out of the loop., & touched those two wires together, the horn will "honk" If you now wiggle those wires (while apart) & the horn doesn't honk..., there may be an issue in the "button"
  8. As to #3 did a NEW turn signal switch with all those wires come in the wiring kit--- or--- is that system all original..? (I know all the aft. mkt. wheels come with a horn button kit.) Is the horn button in good shape & wired correctly..? Would a volt meter help you check voltage & continuity..? Also, the horn req.only 1 wire.... the horn is grounded to the body. That's a mystery where that wire is picking up 12v to honk horn...!!! Any bare 12v wire would short to ground & pop a fuse..!! Are any of the old wires to the dash mounted horn button still floating around...?
  9. Hi PJ., It's not all that bad. If you look just under the dash, up at the column, you'll see 7 or 8 color-coded wires coming out of the column. (As I recall, on the later models, ea. wire has a male-female plug connector under there, the same color so you can't mix them up.) With the str. wheel off, you can attach a strong string to all the wires & pull them up out of the column. (after un-plugged) The string will allow you to pull the wires back down in place. HOWEVER, your description is unclear..., you may not have to go that deep into the fix. 1) Where abouts did you "rewire" the horn..? Under the hood or at the steering wheel.? 2) Randomly honks when you are driving.., or working at the steering wheel. 3) Assume you're pulling on a wire at the steering wheel -- str. wheel off..? 4) Factory wheel or aftermarket? A hot wire (a) runs up the column to the horn button --- pushing the button connects that wire to a wire (b) that runs back down the column to the actual horn/horn relay. The horn can't honk 'til that wire (b) is energized. It would be very rare that a wire is frayed inside the column. There's a rubber grommet where the wires exit the column. Bob
  10. "Is the longer nose pump only a 1/4" difference?" This I don't know. This pulley would be "used" parts-----not shown in catalogs. Call Toms OR Wildhorses tomorrow. I'm sure they can help.., or send you in the right direction. Also., do we have the original harmonic balancer/crank pulley on there..? They would know this also. (I think some had two sheaves, if memory serves) HTH Bob
  11. Hi Project..., Hmmmm.., A bit more info please......, Assuming you're measuring on the vehicle. 1) You might try removing the pulley to be sure there's no "shim" or "Spacer" stuck in there on the nose of the pump. 2) Ford had (as I recall) a couple diff. pumps available for a 302..., some had a longer nose. (could be the longer one in this case) 3) Is it poss. he pulled a (transplanted) 351 from that '74 ...? 4) Is it a 3-hole mount or a 4-hole...? Some center holes are diff. as well. 5) Wrecking yards have many Ford pulleys.., as do Tomsbroncoparts.com & wildhorses4x4.com
  12. Ya., a freeze plug is very likely.., beings it gets cold there. However., if the eng. was replaced., those would be new(er). Other possibilities; head gasket failure, warped head, cracked head, intake manifold gasket, cracked block. Seems obvious to me, that's why he's selling it. He has to know it's leaking..!! Have him fess-up..!! He likely knows what & where it's leaking from.
  13. Hi.., Ya.., there's always other issues to deal with when you make a change/mod. The new intake & carb. sit higher & air filt. won't clear the hood. The linkage will need mods. Exhaust back pressure.., or the lack, of can affect tuning. The smaller Edelbrock (spell) is the most popular I would guess. My thoughts are; unless you do a lot of high-speed freeway driving, it could be rare that you ever get into the back two barrels. There's hood scoops that allow filter clearance. Also aft. market "flat" filters that might help if they clear the linkage. Give us more info. on your intensions & how your rig is equipped.., that would help us help you..... B
  14. ALSO, if you do decide to "do a lift" ---- go with the 11 pack rear leaf kits. That's what I did & the ride is as good or better than stock. LIKE www.tomsbroncoparts.com or www.wildhorses4x4.com Keep in mind a lift brings about other changes.., several things like front end alignment, caster, drag-link, rear-end/driveshaft angle, etc. Sometimes the brake lines & emergency brake cables need changing. It's all doable.., just takes time & patience..... B
  15. You can measure the distance between the ground & frame compared to a stock rig...., the top & bottom of the coil spring seats. Dist. between the rear axle & the frame, etc. Also, ask auto parts store what the fully extended length is for a "stock" front shock is & compare to yours fully extended. The body mounts aren't blown out (at least the one showing) ..., that surface cracking is normal. BTW., the radius arm "donut" bushings can be poly or rubber. (rubber flexing better) From that front end view., it doesn't look like it's been lifted. Rear leaf springs look stock with maybe an overload bottom leaf.
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