Jump to content
66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Seabronc

  1. That is all contained in the turn switch. You need to pull the steering wheel to get at that portion you circled in red. You can get the part from http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=56
  2. If you are referring to the flashers, they are under the dash on the driver side.
  3. It is difficult to find a listing of Ford fusible links vs amperage rating. So here is what a manufacturer of fusible link wire has to say: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml Based on their chart, I would run a 12GA automotive rated wire to replace the old one. As far as the link placement, I would use an inline fuse placed where you can easily get to it for replacement. You could play with the fuse size or place an amp meter in series with the circuit to determine what the actual current draw is when the window defroster is in operation and then add maybe 50% for the size of the fuse. I suspect that the current draw would be under 30 amps. If I was placing the fuse, I would put it down near the existing fuse block. I replaced the power distribution fusible links in my truck with fuses. http://www.supermotors.net/registry/212/66214
  4. OK, had this problem before. We will contact the Admin. Al, could you add this to the previous problem report about the discount?
  5. The Duraspark III is part of the EEC system. Are you having any problems with it? That whole system was designed to meet California emission control laws and was installed in trucks that were destined for sale in California.
  6. What problems are you having? The EEC system was designed to meet the California requirements and I believe it is illegal to remove it from a road vehicle in that state.
  7. Dito the above. If you do need camber caster adjustment, you will need a set of these http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Adjustable-Alignment-Bushings-Pair-87-96-2wd/productinfo/33523/ , the stock bushing does not give a full range of adjustment.
  8. I believe the heavy duty suspension package was part of the towing package. It included dual front shocks, front sway bar and rear torsion bar.
  9. you might want to look here http://shop.broncograveyard.com/searchprods.asp . Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER.
  10. OK, I don't see the diagrams that use to be attached to this subject, got lost in cyber space I guess. So here are a few that may help you.
  11. The wires don't run under panels, they run along the frame under the truck. Key failure points are the connectors, and the cable between the rear door and the left tail light cavity. If worse came to worse replacement with three new auto grade 14 or12 gauge wires would not be too difficult. The reason for using 14 or 12 gauge is that it will keep the voltage drop to a minimum which will be better for the window motor. If you have sluggish operating window motors it is most likely caused by voltage drop caused by corroded connectors or wires that are mostly broken from flexing where they transition from the body to the door, a common problem in old wires.
  12. Caution when using Acetone: Acetone is a carcinogenic and immediately soaks into exposed skin. If you read the directions on a can of acetone it will warn of getting it in contact with bare skin. If using the home brew rust buster, you should use gloves. It always amazes me that women buy it in small bottles for nail polish remover but are not warned of the dangers of using it. Just saying !
  13. The voltage regulator does just what is called, it keeps the voltage from the alternator close to 12V, actually around 13.5V at the battery. The battery's function is simply to start the engine. Once the engine is running the alternator should supply the current demands of topping off the battery and supplying the electrical loads like lights, radio, small motors like door and tailgate windows if there, anything that requires electricity to operate. If you are adding large loads like off road lights, stereos, etc. you may need to increase the size of the alternator. The alternator only puts out enough current to supply the current demand, so if the demand is 10 amps then that is all it puts out. Older alternators had a maximum continuous output of around 50 to 65 amps which was more than enough for factory installed equipment. If however, the demand is 75 Amps then a 65 Amp alternator would not be able to handle the load and the difference would have to come from the battery. that of course, would end up discharging the battery, which is why you need to consider a larger alternator if adding a bunch of electrical gadgets to a vehicle. If running with factory equipment the existing alternator is plenty large enough to handle the load. Glad to hear that you found the resistive wire. You could cut the wire at the rub through, splice it using solder, and then seal with shrink tubing. Good luck with your project,
  14. If you notice the wiring in the diagram, the "Start" position of the ignition switch runs 12V directly to the coil but when it is in "Run" the connection to the coil is through the ballast resistor or the resistive wire. The resistive wire is pink and is usually folded back on itself a couple of times. As far as other wires are concerned, the size depends on the current drawn by the load and the length of the run. Here is a good source to aid in figuring out what is acceptable when wiring with automotive wire. https://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html Just so you know, the design of automotive wire uses smaller and more strands to make it up, which makes it less brittle and susceptible to breaking from flexing.
  15. I'll try to get back to you by tomorrow. For now, you should be using automotive wire not the standard stuff from some place like Home Depot. As Bob advised, if that is an older distributor and coil you need either the resistive wire or a ballast resistor in line with the 12V line to the coil' Attached is a Duraspark ignition wiring diagram. You will see the resistive wire in the top right of the diagram. So in that line you need resistive wire or a ballast resistor to keep the current down in the coil.
  16. This is probably what you will need if it is not what you have already purchased: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-1119 Call them before ordering, they can be a great help.
  17. My first suggestion, is to go to a local book store like Barns & Nobel and purchase some books on rebuilding Ford engines. They have several great books written by experts and just the kind us guys like with lots of pictures. You need to gain some knowledge about computer tuning if you are going to stick with EFI since your existing computer is set up to operate the engine as it is presently configured. Good luck on the project,
  18. Wow, sounds great. Looking forward to seeing some pictures.
  19. Welcome, feel free to include you input to any topic that you feel you can add value to.
  20. Here is another source: http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=29
  21. The tailgate also has a reinforcement piece if mounting a tire rack. It installs on the passenger side of the window regulator mounting hardware. PS If you are ordering a new tailgate, just move your existing hardware to the new gate.
  • Create New...