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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

j-rod

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About j-rod

  • Rank
    Duck Tape L'fixer :)
  • Birthday 05/13/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Neptune Beach, FL.

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Bronco Year?
    1978
  1. Thanks Miesk5 as always, you give great information. However, I should have posted last night that I found the problem to save you from posting all that. So being that everything looks original on the truck, including the motor and catalyst stickers, I just assumed it all was. When I did the tune up recently, I never bothered to check a diagram of how the wires went on the distributor cap because I just change them one at a time and it’s usually not a problem to do it that way, but I did make sure the #2 & #4, #7 & #8 wires weren’t close enough to crossfire since I know that’s a common issue with these years. Well last night I was out there double and triple checking to make sure all my wires were routed correctly and that’s when I noticed that the supposed firing order vs the way they were configured on the distributor cap wasn’t the same. So I pulled them all off for shits and giggles and put them in the configuration of the 1-5-4 firing order and it ran very roughly, which let me know this motor for whatever reason is supposed to be the 1-3-7 configuration. So where I thought I had to separate the 2&4 and 7&8 wires, I actually needed to separate the 1&3 and 5&6 wires. I did that and the problem is gone. Lesson learned, with an old vehicle, never assume the proper or original parts are still being used. Hopefully this might help someone who’s having a similar issue.
  2. Something else I just realized, the catalyst sticker on my air filter box says the firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, but my wires are routed in the configuration for the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. I even swapped it the the 1-5-4 config just to see and it ran like crap, so it’s definitely the 1-3-7 config. I know for a fact that the truck is an 89, but I’m wondering if someone has swapped the motor with a newer 5.0.
  3. Also, what do you mean by “dotted needle”, I’ve never heard that phrase before
  4. I have checked all those items and still haven’t found any smoking gun, that’s why I’m at a loss here.
  5. Got a bit of a weird one here, it’s a 1989 5.0 and it is running rough only at certain times. If you do a light acceleration from a stop, it will miss/hesitate all the way up to speed, but if you get on it pretty good and keep the rpm’s up it won’t do it. Also, if you’re cruising down the road at say 40 mph in overdrive and give it a light acceleration, like 1,000-1,500 rpms, it will also do it. Going up a bridge, if I give it enough throttle to drop a gear and keep the rpms around 2,000, it’s fine, but if I just try to creep up the bridge while still in overdrive it misses. Can not get it to duplicate while power braking. KOEO and KOER test only came up with a code 33 and I tested the egr, egr sensor on top of it, and evr and they all test good. The other problem that I’m sure is related is the fuel mileage has dropped significantly, from around 14-15 to 10-11 mpg I had recently done the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, but it’s still got worse over time. I pulled the plugs again to check and make sure they weren’t cracked and still gapped properly. The wires are ran good, no rubbing or touching. I did a water sprayer test but didn’t see any arcs. Did a vacuum test and it was good too. I’m sure I’m forgetting a thing or two but any help/advice is appreciated. oh also new fuel pump and fuel filter, replaced after it was already acting up, didn’t make a change although I replaced it because it went bad, not just to throw parts at it.
  6. 89 5.0L EFI. I pulled the iac and cleaned with carb cleaner, I also cleaned the throttle body plates but did not remove it. After reinstalling everything the idle was very high, like 2,000 in Park and 1,500 in gear. So I disconnected battery for 5 minutes then let it idle for about 15. Now it has come down some but it’s still too high, in gear it’s at 1,000 and in park or neutral it’s at 1,500. Any ideas?
  7. So I pulled the cluster and plugged in a spare one I have, and the voltage gauge started working fine but the fuel went all the way pegged past full, then after cycling the key a few times it went back to empty. So it looks like the problem is with the cluster itself. I stuck the original back in because I’d like to keep the mileage accurate if possible. Does anyone know how to repair just those two gauges on the cluster?
  8. Awesome, thank you everybody for the replies. Ron, it looks like that’s where I’ll start. Now does anybody know where ground G701 is located lol?
  9. Yes, coolant, oil, speedo, and tach are working fine
  10. Its a 89 5.0L efi Eddie Bauer. Just wondering if there is a common issue with this before I drop the tank to check the senor/float. My last bronco had the brass barrel float that had a hole in it, but since the volt gauge isn’t working either I’m wondering if it’s something else.
  11. I’m referring to fuel injected motors only, and assuming both have same maintenance history, which one would get better, or would they be about the same?
  12. j-rod

    Lifting my bronco

    Been a while, but I sold those rims because I just didn't like them. I picked up a set of tires off Craigslist, some Maxxis Big Horns, 33x12.5x15. I ended up using the stock rims and they actually fit pretty nicely. Put the leveling kit on as well, I still need to get new shocks though. Before After
  13. I have everything but the short block from a 2003 mercury marauder motor, it's the 4.6L DOHC cobra motor, and I was thinking about buying a block and throwing it in the bronco (86 with a 5.8L W). I would also put in a manual trans to match the engine and a basic computer just to run the powertrain without all the gadgets. Anybody ever done anything like this? Is it even possible?
  14. j-rod

    You know you named her....

    My 91 was Betty the bronco... My 86 is Betsy, not very original I know but at least all my friends know their names and refer to them by it
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