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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size


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About tjg8675

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    Bronco Mechanic
  • Birthday 12/31/1975

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  1. Hi Miesk5 and Skitter, Thanks for the info So far B1 - Yes - Radiator filled to spout and overflow filled to cold fill line (maintains this level after 26 mi round trip to work and back) B2 - Yes - Coolant brand new when new radiator installed Saturday 3/23 B3 - No - New radiator installed 3/23, condenser cleaned summer 2018 no dirt, mud or obstructions B4 - No - Upper radiator hose and heater hose very warm to touch after warmup B5 - Cannot run test there is no Fan Clutch Spec for 5.8l 351w (please advise if fan clutch spec is available somewhere else for 5.8l) I think I installed a severe duty fan clutch when I changed it a couple years back (is this OK?) I was doing a bit of towing at the time and thought this would be better, not much towing these days though also... -thermostat installed correctly -A/C condenser clean (I replaced entire system last summer, except condenser which I thoroughly cleaned, no mud or debris present) I will look into a temporary temp gauge to check if dash temp gauge working correctly Thanks for the info so far
  2. Hi All, I have been having cooling system issues for a while now (years I've been dealing with this), mostly a very erratic temp gauge, to the point I'm scared to go up steep grades and big hills for very long or risk overheating. I mostly stick to flat roads and an occasional hill here and there. The last time I took it up a big hill the temp went way past the "NORMAL" range on the gauge and almost into the red before I reached the top of the hill and I was able to coast down to cool it off. I have known for a while that my old radiator was clogged with corrosion (wouldn't even drain out of the petcock valve, too plugged up), so last weekend I bit the bullet and installed a new all aluminum "Cold Case" radiator, unfortunately this did NOT solve my problem. I still have the erratic temp gauge (temp goes up to between the M and A on gauge when accelerating and goes down to between the N and O when coasting). I remember when the temp gauge would stay steady between the N and O and never move, even up huge steep hills and would like to see that performance again. This is what I know... -I am running a 192 degree motorcraft thermostat which tested good before putting in new radiator. -New radiator (flushed system a week before installing new radiator, filled with water and Prestone System Flush and ran for a week until draining and installing new radiator) -New radiator cap -Filled with 50/50 premix -Fairly certain all air is bled out of system (I usually hear gurgling from the heater core during startup when air is in system) -Water pump is a couple years old, this was one of my early attempts at fixing problem, also didn't work -Replaced Fan Clutch , also a couple years ago but didn't fix problem -I also replaced the Temp sender to gauge and ECT when water pump was replaced (How tight should the Temp Sender be? I remember screwing it down until it stopped which seemed odd to me at the time, seemed to deep, and have wondered if this might be part of the issue, maybe sender is touching the metal of the block and either blocking the way or giving bad reading because it is not supposed to touch metal???) Any help appreciated thanks in advance 1995 5.8L Bronco XLT 189,000mi CA emissions compliant
  3. Hi miesk5, That manual had the answer thanks, It says "RTV sealant on the mating surfaces of the transfer case and the bearing retainer" Great resource, I don't know how I got on before without it . Thanks Diesel Dave Thanks miesk5
  4. Hi miesk5, I know its a flange connection on the broncos (#6 in bottom bw1356 esof diagram). What I am wondering is if #14(cap, bearing/extension - short stubby one for the bronco, part of #9 assembly) requires a gasket or some sort of sealant (to keep water out) on the side that connects it to the t-case?
  5. Hi all, I am swapping my transfer case out with a remanufactured t-case and am wondering if I need a gasket betwern the t-case and the adapter to the rear driveshaft? It would be a gasket with 4 holes, if the gasket is required what is the part #? Thanks for the help
  6. I just changed my Transfer case fluid and am a little confused with the capacity difference of fluid coming out and going back in... About 1 gallon of fluid came out and only 2 quarts went back in before coming out of the fill plug hole. Could there be an issue with my transfer case input shaft seal causing transmission fluid to leak into transfer case? Or is there another way to fill this that I'm not aware of by removing transfer case from vehicle or something?
  7. I seem to be having issues with the ignition switch, my guess is the button that the ignition lever in the steering column pushes to start the motor is failing, it works most of the time but sometimes after multiple stops and starts I get a "no start" and have at times resorted to jumping the ignition relay with a screwdriver. I am thinking about installing a "start button" but am unsure what a good way of doing this is, any help would be much appreciated. also Miesk5 would you happen to have a good steering column diagram?
  8. Hi All, Just to follow up if anyone else needs the info, issue #2 was fixed with a new Motorcraft SW5591 Turn Indicator Switch ($93.34 on amazon) And issue #1 hasn't been acting up since cleaning crankshaft pulley and belt (I used some alcohol, but I hear acetone works well too), I will update if stays ok or chirps again onto other projects...(see next post)
  9. Thank You for the info Miesk5, I will check it out over the weekend
  10. I have two annoying issues I need help with for my 95 bronco 351w Issue 1 - Serpentine belt chirps when cold, belt chirps when warming up in the morning (not a squeal, definitely a "chirp"). I have noticed wear marks along the edges of the belts that I think is where the chirp is coming from (I have read might be misaligned pulleys, but all look okay from eyeball view). I have replaced tensioner and idler pulleys and belt multiple times, also water pump, a/c pulley and p/s pump but the chirp keeps coming back (stays quiet for a little while after getting new belt, but keeps coming back). Issue 2 - Windshield wipers run almost every time I start the engine or when turning key to accessory position (usually 3 swipes, sometimes just 1). Like I said just annoying issues, but would like to get them fixed and at least need a starting point for correct repair. Thanks in advance for help
  11. Mission accomplished! Almost couldn't get the new one in, what a PITA couple good whacks with a hammer sent it to its new home Thanks again
  12. Thank you both for the responses, I had seen that video but couldn't make out the jack location either, and thank you miesk5 for the torque specs that was going to be my next question no worries on the profile change I've been meaning to update it Thanks again
  13. Hi All, Just wondering if anyone can help me with the correct procedure for replacing the transmission mount in my 1995 bronco A4OD. I'm just not sure where the safest location to put my floor jack so I don't mess up the transmission, I know it is a easy job but understand that it is a very heavy lift involving lifting the engine and transmission a few inches. My mechanic says OK to lift from transmission pan with a wood block on the jack, but I'm not to sure about that after watching a couple videos online that do not recommend lifting by the pan. Hoping someone here can confirm that info before I mangle it by putting all that weight on the pan. I do not have a transmission jack BTW, hoping to use standard floor jack with a large wood block. Thanks
  14. OK thanks Miesk5 that diagram helps a lot, Does that front pump seal need to be replaced every time the tranny/torque converter get removed? Also what is the typical lifespan of an oil pump? I have 171,000 on mine but never had any oil pressure issues Thanks for the help, much appreciated
  15. What is the pump seal you are referring to? AT front pump seal?
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