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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size


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About tjg8675

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    Bronco Mechanic
  • Birthday 12/31/1975

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  1. Hi Miesk5, Thanks for the info on the icm, I stopped by my local Ford dealer parts dept today to pick up my new coolant temp sensor and had them lookup the icm for my bronco, using my VIN # they told me the icm for my bronco is DY1075 (the grey one). I told him I'm pretty sure the one I need is the DY1077 (the black one), since the original one is still in my truck and is black. The parts guy didn't argue with me and looked up the DY1077. They wanted $210 for it so I told him I can find it somewhere else for much less, but this got me thinking why the other places are so much cheaper (I know the dealer has crazy markup but that is ridiculous) $136.99 at summit racing, $116.79 at rockauto, $64.19 at Amazon, $79.99 at autozone. The amazon and autozone must be knockoffs at those prices!! I guess I need to pull out the one in my truck and get the part # off it just to be sure but am finding this whole debacle frustrating, makes me wonder what other parts are mis-listed or could be cheap knockoffs Probably going to order from Rockauto (once I check on the original part #) since they have best price and seem reputable Thanks agian TJG
  2. Hi Miesk5, Thanks for the info A little off the topic but ...Do you have the correct part number for the Ignition Control Module for my 1995 Bronco 5.8l with CA emissions? Please correct me if I am wrong, but from what I understand there is some confusion surrounding this part due to an error in Ford's part listing to aftermarket vendors which apparently was never corrected. When I search O'reilly's, Summit Racing, Amazon, etc. they all direct me to p/n DY1075 which is a grey icm, my Bronco most definitely has a black icm which I think the replacement is p/n DY1077 but shows as incorrect part or not listed as available for my vehicle in the stores databases, Amazon sellers will not even ship a DY1077 to me in California due to Ca Air Board restrictions. Thanks for the help TJG
  3. OK thanks Miesk5, I have a new ECT on the way from Ford will be here monday, was cheap and easy enough to just replace, but I'll run the tests later today anyway I was also reading about high idle/check engine light issue here https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/100038-95-bronco-5-8-high-idle-problems.html he said it might be ACT although he had a code 133 (my book doesn't even show a 133 ???)
  4. Hi Miesk5, thanks for the info I started it up this morning and about 5 seconds after startup the check engine light came on and rpm's rose to and stuck at 1200 same as yesterday, I backed out of my garage and noticed that the exhaust smelled VERY rich, I put it in drive and tried to move but had NO power (it was like it was in 4th gear, but was actually in 1st). I then stopped and shut it off and restarted but check engine light was on again and still had no power (in hindsight I should've checked codes at this point but didn't). I drove to the end of my driveway, stopped and the engine stalled. I restarted it and the check engine light was off and power was restored. I then drove to my mechanics shop a few miles away with no issue and checked codes again, same result as yesterday, KOEO - pass and KOER - pass. From what I can tell the issue goes away once it warms up to operating temp, my mechanic does not think the lower temp thermostat is related to problem and suggested maybe the coolant temp sensor/sending unit might have something to do with it (not the temp gauge sender, the other one) I unplugged the IAC and the rpm's dropped a bit so I think that is a pass Wondering if it is either the coolant temp sensor/sending unit, ACT or an issue with the computer ??? Thanks again for the help
  5. Hi All, Thanks for the info Miesk5 gonna work on that soon, Had a weird issue on my way to and back from work today I was heading to work traveling about 40 mph down the road when the engine started running rough and I looked down at the instrument panel and the check engine light was on, about 3 seconds later check engine light turned off and engine ran normal the rest of the way to work. On my way home from work it started up ok but just down the street (maybe 1/8 mi) I was slowing down approaching a red light to stop and engine would not settle down to idle (stuck at about 1200rpm) and check engine light was on again. I put it in neutral and blipped the gas to see if it would unstick the high idle but didn't work, a couple seconds later the idle started jumping erratically from 1200rpm to below regular idle (about 500rpm) with no pedal input after doing this a couple times the engine stalled. I restarted it and check engine light was off and idle was normal so I proceeded cautiously. A little bit further down the road the erratic idle came back briefly along with a blinking check engine light (not steady blink, seemed to blink in time with the erratic idle) then went away. I made it home with no further issue after a stop for food and checked the KOEO and the KOER for codes and all I got was 111 and 10 (pass) on both tests. I'm wondering if this has anything to do with the recent change to the lower temp thermostat, could that be messing with the computer? (I noticed the temp gauge needle was below the "N" of NORMAL on both occasions, also it was a bit cooler today than it has been since the thermostat change) The symptoms also seem similar to an issue I had a couple years ago (Feb 2017) with the IAC where the idle would stick when slowing down approaching red lights, but did not throw a check engine light, I replaced IAC with a motorcraft replacement and has been good until today. Anyways I appreciate any help you can give Thanks TJG
  6. Hi All, Just getting around to dealing with this again... Good news and bad news... Good news is I think a lower temperature thermostat fixed the erratic temp gauge issue, I installed a 180' thermostat today and it seems to have fixed the issue ( I previously was using a 192' thermostat as recommended by the Ford Dealership). Before the temp was all over the place now seems to rest on the "O" in "NORMAL" with slight variations...although I have yet to test it on a big hill (will do sometime this week). Not sure why they recommend the 192', that thermostat caused me nothing but headaches (I think I might need to swap that back in again before my next smog check though). Bad news is when I went to change out my Temperature gauge sender, I buggered up the brass 6-point top of it and now can't get it out , stuck good with nothing left to get a socket on. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
  7. Hi Miesk5 and Skitter, Thanks for the info So far B1 - Yes - Radiator filled to spout and overflow filled to cold fill line (maintains this level after 26 mi round trip to work and back) B2 - Yes - Coolant brand new when new radiator installed Saturday 3/23 B3 - No - New radiator installed 3/23, condenser cleaned summer 2018 no dirt, mud or obstructions B4 - No - Upper radiator hose and heater hose very warm to touch after warmup B5 - Cannot run test there is no Fan Clutch Spec for 5.8l 351w (please advise if fan clutch spec is available somewhere else for 5.8l) I think I installed a severe duty fan clutch when I changed it a couple years back (is this OK?) I was doing a bit of towing at the time and thought this would be better, not much towing these days though also... -thermostat installed correctly -A/C condenser clean (I replaced entire system last summer, except condenser which I thoroughly cleaned, no mud or debris present) I will look into a temporary temp gauge to check if dash temp gauge working correctly Thanks for the info so far
  8. Hi All, I have been having cooling system issues for a while now (years I've been dealing with this), mostly a very erratic temp gauge, to the point I'm scared to go up steep grades and big hills for very long or risk overheating. I mostly stick to flat roads and an occasional hill here and there. The last time I took it up a big hill the temp went way past the "NORMAL" range on the gauge and almost into the red before I reached the top of the hill and I was able to coast down to cool it off. I have known for a while that my old radiator was clogged with corrosion (wouldn't even drain out of the petcock valve, too plugged up), so last weekend I bit the bullet and installed a new all aluminum "Cold Case" radiator, unfortunately this did NOT solve my problem. I still have the erratic temp gauge (temp goes up to between the M and A on gauge when accelerating and goes down to between the N and O when coasting). I remember when the temp gauge would stay steady between the N and O and never move, even up huge steep hills and would like to see that performance again. This is what I know... -I am running a 192 degree motorcraft thermostat which tested good before putting in new radiator. -New radiator (flushed system a week before installing new radiator, filled with water and Prestone System Flush and ran for a week until draining and installing new radiator) -New radiator cap -Filled with 50/50 premix -Fairly certain all air is bled out of system (I usually hear gurgling from the heater core during startup when air is in system) -Water pump is a couple years old, this was one of my early attempts at fixing problem, also didn't work -Replaced Fan Clutch , also a couple years ago but didn't fix problem -I also replaced the Temp sender to gauge and ECT when water pump was replaced (How tight should the Temp Sender be? I remember screwing it down until it stopped which seemed odd to me at the time, seemed to deep, and have wondered if this might be part of the issue, maybe sender is touching the metal of the block and either blocking the way or giving bad reading because it is not supposed to touch metal???) Any help appreciated thanks in advance 1995 5.8L Bronco XLT 189,000mi CA emissions compliant
  9. Hi miesk5, That manual had the answer thanks, It says "RTV sealant on the mating surfaces of the transfer case and the bearing retainer" Great resource, I don't know how I got on before without it . Thanks Diesel Dave Thanks miesk5
  10. Hi miesk5, I know its a flange connection on the broncos (#6 in bottom bw1356 esof diagram). What I am wondering is if #14(cap, bearing/extension - short stubby one for the bronco, part of #9 assembly) requires a gasket or some sort of sealant (to keep water out) on the side that connects it to the t-case?
  11. Hi all, I am swapping my transfer case out with a remanufactured t-case and am wondering if I need a gasket betwern the t-case and the adapter to the rear driveshaft? It would be a gasket with 4 holes, if the gasket is required what is the part #? Thanks for the help
  12. I just changed my Transfer case fluid and am a little confused with the capacity difference of fluid coming out and going back in... About 1 gallon of fluid came out and only 2 quarts went back in before coming out of the fill plug hole. Could there be an issue with my transfer case input shaft seal causing transmission fluid to leak into transfer case? Or is there another way to fill this that I'm not aware of by removing transfer case from vehicle or something?
  13. I seem to be having issues with the ignition switch, my guess is the button that the ignition lever in the steering column pushes to start the motor is failing, it works most of the time but sometimes after multiple stops and starts I get a "no start" and have at times resorted to jumping the ignition relay with a screwdriver. I am thinking about installing a "start button" but am unsure what a good way of doing this is, any help would be much appreciated. also Miesk5 would you happen to have a good steering column diagram?
  14. Hi All, Just to follow up if anyone else needs the info, issue #2 was fixed with a new Motorcraft SW5591 Turn Indicator Switch ($93.34 on amazon) And issue #1 hasn't been acting up since cleaning crankshaft pulley and belt (I used some alcohol, but I hear acetone works well too), I will update if stays ok or chirps again onto other projects...(see next post)
  15. Thank You for the info Miesk5, I will check it out over the weekend
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