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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

fyreduck1921

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About fyreduck1921

  • Rank
    Bronco Mechanic
  • Birthday 10/07/1976

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Alton, IL

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Bronco Year?
    1976
  1. I recently looked at a nice 79 Bronco Ranger XLT with a 400ci that is available. The owner is the original owner. The truck has 108,000 original miles and the owner installed a new long block at 100,000 miles a "few" years ago. He said has hasn't driven the truck in a couple of years. I drove the truck around the block and when I got back, coolant was pouring out of the left side of the engine onto the oil filter. I couldn't see where the coolant was coming from, but it was a heavy stream. Any idea what the source of the leak is?
  2. Good Afternoon, I am finally getting my 93 Eddie Bauer 351W / E4OD put back together. The Air pump is seized up. Where I live, the truck is not subjected to emissions testing. Can I remove the air pump and buy a different serpentine belt to fit, or do I need the air pump for the truck to run right. It is stock, except for a set of headers. Thanks, Steve
  3. I have a 93 Bronco 351W / E4OD and the engine is blown. I have a donor engine from a 92 or 93 E150 Van. Does anyone know if the cam / timing is the same in this generation van? I know that there were years where van engines were de-tuned. I am conserned that if the donor / van engine has a different cam in it than what was in my Bronco, the Gen-1 / speed density computer will have fits with the changes. If it helps, the casting number on the van / donor block is FOAE6015aa9. Thanks
  4. Sorry to hijack, but BullyBob, can you elaborate on the "Y" steering vs "T" steering systems, please? I have a 76 Bronco with a 3.5" lift and she wanders on occasion. Thanks.
  5. Bruce, Sorry for just getting back to you. Depending on which VIN decoder you use will determine how close they get on your build date. Some only give you the year. Even so, if we are given that VINs 00001-12000 were in a given year and we have a truck who's VIN ends with 06000, it would be safe to assume that truck was made in the middle of that year.
  6. Auggie, I got a better look at the numbers on my desktop. This is what I see Glove box tag: U15GL02292 Frame: U15GL01228* with the last character being unreadable. From what I read, that only changes the serial number and not by much, so it would only affect the build date by a few weeks. Steve
  7. Vin U15 = Bronco wagon G = 302 V8 L = Michigan assembly plant 002292 = serial number Color - T = Candy apple Red Trans - C = 3 speed manual Axle - B8J = B8 is rear axle code = 3.50 ratio limited slip. J is front axle code = Dana 30 Limited slip DSO - 26 = New Orleans
  8. Hey all, I'm sure this has been covered, but I'm not finding it. I have a 93 Bronco EFI 351W / E40D / BW1356 shift on the fly. My engine and transmission need to be rebuilt. What is the easiest way to get them both out? Drop the transmission and transfer case out the bottom, then the engine through the hood? Or drop the transfer case and take the engine and transmission out through the hood together? Thanks for your thoughts. Steve
  9. Auggie, your Bronco has a Ford 9" rear axle. The axle code B8J can be looked up by searching "Ford Axle Code decoder." The B8 identifies a Ford 9" with a 3.50 ratio, 2900lb capacity and limited slip. The "J" means that your front axle is also a limited slip. http://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech/ford_axle_codes.shtml Hope this helps.
  10. How did you get your cage to clear your glove box?
  11. Existing engine has 200k miles, multiple bent valves and developed a death vibration that cracked the timing chain cover. Oh, and all of that happened 9yrs ago...been in the garage since.
  12. Good afternoon, I will apologize in advance for the long post, but I want to try to give y'all as much information as I can, in hopes that I get accurate information in return. I have a 93 Bronco with a 351W and and E4OD transmission. My understanding is that this is a Speed Density engine. I have been offered a rebuilt 351W for a great price. Here is what I have been told about the replacement engine. The replacement engine is a 351W out of a 92 Ford Van with an AOD transmission belonging to a friend-A. The engine was removed, rebuilt to stock, then installed into a 94 Ford Van (transmission unknown) belonging to a friend-A's coworker-B. Coworker-B reported to Friend-A that the 92 engine in the 94 van "never did communicate properly with the transmission" and "wouldn't shift right." Coworker-B removed the 92 engine from his 94 van and returned it to Friend-A, who is willing to sell it to me for $100. I have no way to contact Coworker-B to gather more information. My primary question is: Will the engine work in my truck as long as I re-use my computer and speed density sensor? What other components are critical to the swap? Thanks, Steve
  13. Husmann, I also have a 93 Bronco with a 351W. A couple of years ago, I looked into the mass air conversion, but, like you, didn't find enough information to be comfortable with moving forward. I have on occassion looked at various bolt ons like you have described here. Could you share the list of mods you have in mind, and the cam you have in mind? Thanks, Steve
  14. Hey everyone, I hope someone can help me out. I have a 76 Bronco Sport with a 302 and C4. I've had the Bronco since last August and have put about 3,000 miles on it in that time. The previous owner only had the truck about 3 years and had taken it as payment for a debt, so he knew very little about it. Based on the idle, I believe that it has a mild cam in it. He told me that he knows the heads are from an earlier year (71?) because the spark plugs from a 76 didn't fit. The truck also has an Edelbrock Performer intake and 4 barrlel carb. Under normal conditions, in town or on the highway, the truck runs at 190*F according to the factory temp gage. When I come to a stop, the truck maintains that temperature. When I turn the Bronco off, then turn the key back ON (so the gages work) the temperature quickly climbs all of the way to the peg on the hot side. If I start the truck with the temperature elevated above about 220*F on the gage, it is noticeably harder to start, and runs rough until the temperature comes back down to 190*F. The temp comes back down pretty quickly once the truck is running. I have not flushed the cooling system, but the coolant looks to be in good shape; clean and green. Am I damaging the truck by letting it get this hot? What are the potential causes and solutions? Thanks in advance for any thoughts. Steve
  15. I had a similar problem on my 76 Bronco. I have an Edelbrock intak and 4 barrel carb. According to my local shop, the electric choke on the factory 2 barrel carb ran on 5 volts, wired off of the stator on the alternator. The Edelbrock requires a full 12-volts. They ran a new power wire directly from the fuse box and now my hot idle is much better. Not sure if this helps. Good luck.
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