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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size


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Everything posted by Shadow_D

  1. 1. How do you like the Bronco Zone? 2. Is it easy for you to navigate the forum? 3. Are there any changes you would like to see? 4. How does the Bronco Zone compare to other forums you use? I'd like to see what other people think of our forum and maybe use this information to help make the Bronco Zone a better place for all. This thread will open at Midnight on August 31 and will close at 23:59 on September 28. UPDATE! Thread has been reopened and will stay open due to limited response! Thanks Darrin
  2. X2 ^ Are you getting fuel???
  3. I'd use it on maintenance items as mentioned above or fuel... If you want something to add to the truck I'd look into a good winch.
  4. 1. I'm not too sure about the A/C... Is the compressor running? If not it might need a bit more freon. 2. Check the "For Sale" Section. 3. If you use a soft top you will need to make a change to your 3rd brake light and you might need to find a way to mount the shoulder straps of the seat belts. 4. I used a 6" Rough Country suspension lift kit that I bought on eBay for around $400 and it has most everything needed except for the longer brake hoses. 5. Most often when this question is answered the common reply is BF Goodrich MT tires. If you use the search function of the forum, you should be able to find most of your answers... Good luck.
  5. I'd say it is the bottom of the motor... I had this happen with my Beast and I had to put a new motor in it. I could have rebuilt the motor myself but at the time I didn't have the space or equipment to do that so I had the Stealership do the work thinking I would have a good Ford Warranty HA! what a waste that was!
  6. I say NO WAY IN HELL! If I decide to sell Beast (I was going to do it earlier this month but now I'm not) I would be better to part it out rather than let them give me $4500 toward a new car that I can't afford. Plus I don't think it's right that they put a chemical into the engine to seize the motor so NO ONE can use any of the parts.
  7. Ok it took a little bit but I finally found what I was looking for... http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?act...ost&id=7861 this is the wiring diagram for the tailgate...
  8. I saw an idea once a while back... It consisted of a boat trailer hand crank with 2 cables attached to it. those cables went to a 2x4 each, 2x4s were long enough to span the top. Next there were 2 each straps per 2x4 with flat type hooks on the ends that would slide under the top at each corner. After that you are kinda on your own but I would suggest a better way of storing it when its off maybe set it on a set of saw horses and putting 2x4s under it then using the straps to lift it back up by the 2x4s...
  9. ok I can't find the info I'm looking for but give me some time... Also someone else has the pics I'm lookin for and he will most likely post them...
  10. Valve covers are easy as Bronc76 said... "U" joints are also easy unless you need to replace the ones in the TTB. Unbolt the drive shaft at the "U" joint pull one of the caps then unbolt the joint and replace... They may be "pressed" in but that still isn't that hard to replace.
  11. Sounds like you have a bad connection. Do as Wolf says and you should be good to go...
  12. Ok IIRC there should be 2 more plugs under the truck... check them for corrosion
  13. Ok first things first... It's prob not your fault so take a deep breath and relax BUT DON"T GRAB A BEER YET! Chances are the wires are broke between the tail light and the tailgate, they usually break after years of use. Pull the driver side tail light out and look for the harness that comes from the tail gate and unplug it Now start checking for power on the "truck" side of the plug. Also look to see how badly corroded the plug is. Chances are you will have good power at that point. If you do, start looking at the wires in the "fold" between the gate and the body. thats where they usually break. If you use the sharp point on the probe you should be able to find the break and repair it.
  14. This user has been BANNED for spamming the forum!

  15. Shadow_D


    Most people know my feelings about body lift kits but I will give you my opinion in case you don't know. Keep in mind this is only my opinion... Body lifts are dangerous. A body lift uses longer bolts to hold the body to the frame, doing this means you have new weak points. In a serious accident they could *AND HAVE* sheered off detaching the body from the frame. This sends the body in another direction out of control. I would much rather see you do it right and use a suspension lift. Rough Country kits are less than $600 complete. Just give it some thought. I know body lifts are cheeper but maybe not in the long run...
  16. All it is is a secondary filter after the main filter...
  17. You are almost correct... If the 351 is injected and the 302 is carbed you can still use the 351 BUT you will need to change the intake to a carbed setup. other than that it should work fine.
  18. Shadow_D


    I don't think I have EVER seen any "fuel saver" gadgets that work... The best way to save fuel is to keep your foot off the accelerator. Keep up with regular maintenance i.e. tune ups, oil changes etc. The only product that I've seen that is worth anything is the K&N air filters, IMHO they do work. Fuel system cleaning products are kinda hit and miss... If you want to go that route, you could "Sea Foam" the engine. There might be a "how to" thread on here somewhere. Come to think about it the ONLY "gadget" that does work (and it is not advertised as a fuel saving device, it's a performance enhancer) would be a real computer programming chip from companies like "Hyper-Tech" but they only work on ODB1 computers. ODB2 computers need to be re-programed with a computer. Other than that, don't waste your time or money...
  19. it is a crank case breather... L.A.P. store sells them but you don't really need it...
  20. Typically it would have come stock with automatic hubs HOWEVER, most of those auto hubs really didn't work too well and people would swap them for the more reliable manual locking hubs. Noise could be the wheel bearings. Easiest way to tell is to jack the truck and try to move the wheels up and down, side to side... If the wheel moves in any direction other than with the steering gear, your bearings are bad. If there is a lot of movement, you will need to replace the races as well but I would just replace those with the new bearings anyway...
  21. Yea thats what I was thinking too... looks like its time for that F250 upgrade I've been thinking about :/
  22. I'd be willing to bet your fuel pressure regulator is going bad... I had this happen to me not too long ago and that solved most of my problems. IIRC they aren't much more than $20 - $30...
  23. when the truck is idling, does it have a "wet" firing sound? Do you see black or dark smoke from the exhaust when you get it running after it stalls?
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