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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Shadow_D

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Everything posted by Shadow_D

  1. I had an idea and I thought I'd bounce it off you folks. I have a 1990 full size bronco with a new 351W and the E4OD trans that has a fresh rebuild but that the body is too far gone to repair. I also have a 98 Expedition with the 4.6 but I'm not sure what trans it has, that has a head gasket issue and has never towed anything in it's life. I'm looking to get a newer car but to do that, I need to get rid of my Bronco. Problem is I still need something that I can tow with. Question is... Does anyone know of any issues that would prevent me from swapping the 4.6 and trans in the Expo with my 351 and trans? Thanks D
  2. I've been looking at HIDs for some time now and I'm not sure they are worth it. Yes they are bright and if the lights are not aimed correctly they will blind other drivers. You will also lose your high beams when switching to HIDs, I know they make them with the second filament but there is a delay when switching from high to low and the HIDs come back to temperature causing you to have very little light when driving, not safe. Just my oppinion...
  3. I haven't had any experience with them. The general consensus here is that a 6" lift is better and for the small amount extra they usually cost, it's worth it.
  4. When I needed to replace both headlight assemblies, I bought them from an ebay seller and had good luck. Below is one of the seller's auctions, it is for all 6 front lights. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bronco-F150-F250-Headlight-Parking-Light-Set-6pc-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZMakeQ3aFordQ7cModelQ3aBroncoQ7cYearQ3a1994QQhashZitem5196d5a2b2QQitemZ350422934194QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Below is the same seller, complete front and rear set. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bronco-F150-F250-Headlight-Parking-Light-Taillight-Set-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZMakeQ3aFordQ7cModelQ3aBroncoQ7cYearQ3a1994QQhashZitem5196e023c1QQitemZ350423622593QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Prices are good as well PLUS they are offering FREE Shipping.
  5. I kinda thought thats what he was talking about, just wanted to be sure.
  6. What do you mean by "Quarter Windows"?
  7. My first thought would be that the ignition switch melted somehow. This would cause the stiffness in the key. There is a rod that follows along the steering column, this rod connects the cylinder (where you put the key) to the actual ignition switch. Find this rod and watch it as you work the key. If the rod bends as you rotate the key to the start position, your switch is the problem. Have you had a burning plastic type smell that you couldn't find? Next thing you could try is spray WD-40 into the cylinder and try your key again.
  8. No problem, I'm glad it was something simple I miss not having a User CP like vBulletin or even the setup phpBB has.
  9. I don't have that problem, I'm gonna have to say it's something with your browser settings. Maybe you have the cookies turned off or at some point the site was blocked from storing cookies on your machine.
  10. Well thats part of the problem... They don't always run. every once and a while I will walk by the truck and they will come on for a few seconds then shut off like they are trying to keep pressure. after a day or so the battery is dead... See why I've been beating my head against the wall
  11. miesk5: Yea I remember you did reply but I just couldn't find the old post. Those are the relay's I've replaced several times so something is causing them to short out, maybe a chaffed wire somewhere??? I guess I'll need to dig around under the hood to see if I can find this thing. One thing that I might not have mentioned and forgot about until just now, about 3 or 4 years ago (truck hasn't been driven more than 500 miles in the last few years) my neighbor stopped me when I came home to tell me that my horn started blasting in my truck and had been for over an hour. When I investigated it the horns were hot and smoking so I pulled the battery. I checked everything and couldn't find a reason, replaced the now burned out horns and it hasn't done it since...
  12. Ok folks time for my issues again... I tried to search for my old post about this problem but couldn't find it. Problem is, when the key is off the fuel pump will run on it's own. Ive been told to look for a bad ground or a shorted wire but I haven't found one yet. I've also had to replace the relays under the hood a few times over the years (6 or more times, I've lost count). Someone also told me to look at the wiring under the brake booster but I just haven't had a chance to check yet. Any other ideas?
  13. Well you are almost right... I remember there is something that NEEDS to be disconnected before you work on the timing but hell I, for some reason, can't remember what it is...
  14. Broncos have had trouble with corrosion for years, therefore you should run your own power for all accessories. This can be as simple or elaborate as you want, I've done the elaborate type and I have around 50 hours building it. First is the primary power wire going from the battery into a fuse then to a pair of breakers on my board. One breaker is a 30A, and the other is 25A. The reason for the second breaker is so that I can run that wire to a relay and only power those accs. when the ign key is on. Then from the relay I ran a wire to a power distribution block. The other breaker goes to another power distribution block that always has power. I've also installed an aux fuse block from a Crown Vic that I run my equipment through. I've included a picture with labels so you can get an idea as to what I'm talking about. Keep in mind, I built this several years ago and have made a lot of changes to it so it isn't as neat and clean as it used to be. Maybe after I get the Beast back up and tunning, I'll go through it and clean it up again. WARNING! THE PICTURE IS HUGE!
  15. It all depends on the kit but AFAK there should be enough play in the shafts to go 6". I have a Rough Country 6 on my Beast with stock shafts. I'd go with the 6 because once you have and install the 4 you will wish you had the 6...
  16. I have a 6" lift on my Beast and still run with 31" tires. It really looks like I need bigger tires...
  17. I would double check your torque on all bolts & nuts. Sounds like something is loose, I know when i did mine it wasn't easy to get at some of the bolts and could have been easy to miss one or two...
  18. It sounds like some of the wires are backward or it could be a short somewhere...
  19. Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
  20. I know it's not an Expo but this is what someone I know is doing to his GMC... It should give you some ideas. Go to Page 3 about 1/4 of the way down, he is building one from scratch and it looks great. http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113016 Good Luck
  21. I could be wrong but I don't think so... The 92 - 96 has a different front end, including the bumper, that is slightly more rounded than the 87 - 91...
  22. That is what I was looking for originally... I'd like to see a "User Control Panel" (UCP) that list all "Active" threads that I have subscribed to, I.E. Say I've subscribed to 50 threads and some people have posted in 10 of them, the UCP would show the 10 threads that have new information and a link to the first unread post... Just about every other forum I'm on has this setup. I'm think most people would think it would be easier to navigate.
  23. I'm not sure about it either but we needed to make some changes... In time we will get used to it...
  24. I noticed the same type of noise after I lifted my Beast. I too decided it was coming from the Tcase. I have a strong vibration that almost sounds like a grinding noise. After I unlocked the hubs, the noise seems to have gone away.
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