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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

miesk5

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Everything posted by miesk5

  1. Good! I wonder about some load ratings too, especially because of your Centurion's weight.
  2. Ignition Switch Removal & Installation in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty, F-Super Duty Motorhome and Bronco Workshop Manual; same as 92 through 95 and possibly earlier years. "... Ignition SwitchRemovalDisconnect battery ground cable (14301). Remove the upper steering column shroud (3530) by removing the self-tapping screws.Remove four bolts retaining lower steering column shroud and remove lower steering column shroud.Remove lock screw and disconnect the ignition switch electrical connector.Rotate the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) to the RUN position.Remove the two screws retaining ignition switch (11572).Disengage the ignition switch from the actuator.InstallationNOTE: A new replacement ignition switch assembly will be set in the RUN position as received.Adjust the ignition switch by sliding the carrier to the RUN position.Make sure the ignition switch lock cylinder is in the RUN position. The RUN position is achieved by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder approximately 90 degrees from the LOCK position.Install the ignition switch into the column actuator hole. It may be necessary to move the ignition switch back and forth slightly to align the ignition switch mounting holes with the lock cylinder housing threaded holes.Install retaining screws. Tighten to 6-8 Nm (53-71 lb-in).Connect the electrical connector to the ignition switch. Tighten lock screw to 0.8-1.3 Nm (7-11.5 lb-in).Connect battery ground cable. Check ignition switch for proper function, including START and ACC positions. Also, make certain that the column is in the LOCK position.Install the upper steering column shroud and lower steering column shroud."
  3. Yo, That's a bummer! See https://www.aa1car.com/library/tirefail.htm We checked for a squirrel nest on engine, driver side. They nibble on the vacuum hoses and fuel injector connectors. We bought concentrated peppermint to drop around area and top of driver side front tire.
  4. Yo, A previous owner or shop may have swapped a 94 through 96 5.0 or even a 5.8 in. Check the casting number; on the small block V8, it's is above the starter. For example; http://s420.photobucket.com/user/th3jessejames/media/Picture111.jpg.html F4T = 94 Truck: 4C1 = March 1 1994 See http://reincarnation-automotive.com/casting-numbers-page-2-ford-casting-numbers-explained.html https://classicmustang.com/decoding-part-numbers/ ○ 94 through 96 5.0 and All 5.8 have same firing orders, 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 . On these vehicles, the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire. To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap. ○ If you still have DTC 33, it must be solved. DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing.... To prevent the EGR valve from opening when the engine is cold, vacuum is not allowed to pass to the valve until the engine is warm. EGR isn't needed when the engine is cold, only when it is warm and under load. ○ "Dotted needle"; is in my vacuum leak test hot link; such as in #2, "NORMAL READING DURING RAPID ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION... "engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading." Note that the dotted neeedle is shown near zero on the gauge. Section 03-00: Engine, Service Workshop Manual SERVICE PROCEDURES Intake Manifold Vacuum Test Bring the engine (6007) to normal operating temperature. Connect Rotunda Vacuum/Pressure Tester 164-R0253 or equivalent to the intake manifold (9424). Run the engine at the specified idle speed. The vacuum gauge should read between -51 and -74 kPa (15 and 22 in-Hg) depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. SUBTRACT 5.5 kPa FOR EVERY 500 METERS ABOVE SEA LEVEL. SUBTRACT ONE INCH FROM THE SPECIFIED READING FOR EVERY 1,000 FEET OF ELEVATION ABOVE SEA LEVEL. The reading should be quite steady. It may be necessary to adjust the gauge damper control (where used) if the needle is fluttering rapidly. Adjust damper until needle moves easily without excessive flutter. Vacuum Gauge Readings, Interpretation A careful study of the vacuum gauge reading while the engine is idling will help pinpoint trouble areas. Always conduct other appropriate tests before arriving at a final diagnostic decision. Remember that vacuum gauge readings must be interpreted with care. Most vacuum gauges have a "normal" band indicated on the gauge face. Following are potential gauge readings. Some should be considered as normal; others should be investigated further. NORMAL READING: Needle between -51 and -74 kPa (15 and 22 in-Hg) and holding steady. NORMAL READING DURING RAPID ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION: When engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading. When throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure. NORMAL FOR HIGH LIFT CAM WITH LARGE OVERLAP: Needle will register as low as -51 kPa (15 in-Hg) but will be relatively steady. Some oscillation is normal. WORN RINGS OR DILUTED OIL: When engine is accelerated (dotted needle), needle drops to 0 kPa (zero in-Hg). Upon deceleration, needle runs slightly above 74 kPa (4 in-Hg). STICKING VALVE(S): When the needle (dotted) remains steady at a normal vacuum but occasionally flicks (sharp, fast movement) down and back about 13 kPa (4 in-Hg), one or more valves may be sticking. BURNED OR WARPED VALVES: A regular, evenly spaced, downscale flicking of the needle indicates one or more burned or warped valves. Insufficient hydraulic lash adjuster clearance will also cause this action. POOR VALVE SEATING: A small but regular downscale flicking can mean one or more valves are not seating. WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates (swings back and forth) over a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed, the valve guides (6510) could be worn. As engine speed is increased, the needle will become steady if the guides are responsible. WEAK VALVE SPRINGS: When the needle oscillation becomes more violent as engine rpm is increased, weak valve springs (6513) are indicated. The reading at idle could be relatively steady. LATE VALVE TIMING: A steady but low reading could be caused by late valve timing. IGNITION TIMING RETARDING: Retarded ignition timing will produce a steady but low reading. INSUFFICIENT SPARK PLUG GAP: When spark plugs (12405) are gapped too close, a regular, small pulsation of the needle can occur. INTAKE LEAK: A low, steady reading can be caused by an intake manifold or throttle body gasket (TB gasket) (9E936) leak. BLOWN HEAD GASKET: A regular drop of approximately 33-50 kPa (10-15 in-Hg) can be caused by a blown head gasket (6051) or warped head-to-block mounting surface. RESTRICTED EXHAUST SYSTEM: When the engine is first started and is idled, the reading may be normal. As the engine rpm is increased, the back-pressure caused by a clogged muffler, kinked tail pipe, etc., will cause the needle to slowly drop to zero. The needle then may slowly rise. Excessive exhaust clogging will cause the needle to drop to a low point even if the engine is only idled. When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. ALWAYS SERVICE VACUUM LEAKS.
  5. miesk5

    Need Help Troubleshooting!

    Yo Yeti, It's likely the EEC Relay (BROWN CONNECTOR) is hanging closed; If the EEC relay goes bad, it could be sending the signal to the fuel pump relay to turn the fuel pumps on; One easy test for this is: Without the key in ignition, bump the starter over @ the starter relay using a screwdriver. If it is the EEC relay, the truck will start without the key in the ignition..." You have ruled out the FP relay hanging closed. MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; When the ignition is switched to the ON position, it turns the EEC Power Relay on. The EEC Power Relay provides power to the EEC-IV processor and the control side of the fuel pump relay. Power for the fuel pumps is supplied through a fuse link attached to the starter relay (battery side). From the fuse link, current flow is through the fuel pump relay and Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch to the fuel pumps. The IFS switch is a safety device used to shut off the fuel pump in the event of a collision. If the IFS switch is "tripped," it must be reset by depressing the white or red button on the top of the switch. The fuel pump relay is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, the fuel pumps will operate. If the ignition switch is not turned to the START position, the PCM will shut the fuel pumps off after approximately one second. The PCM will operate the fuel pumps when the ignition is in the START position to provide fuel while cranking. After the engine starts, the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pumps unless the engine stops, engine speed drops below 120 rpm, or the IFS switch is "tripped." ○ Wiring Diagram in an 89 ○ Consider EEC & Fuel Pump Relay Swapping to Bosch Style Relays & Color Codes in all pre-'92 EFI Bronco & F-series; "...Working on ONE relay at a time, remove the terminals from the stock connector & discard it. I collected these Bosch-style sockets in junkyards, but they're available at most parts stores, from Ford, or several online suppliers like RJMInjectionTech.com as crimp-on kits for a near-factory look. Being careful to connect the wires to the proper terminals (using the list below), securely connect the old wires to the terminals of the new sockets. Try to keep the wires the same length so there's not a huge ratnest. EEC PWR 30 - Y (battery always 12V) 87 - Bu, DB, R (out to EEC) 85 - Wh/LB, R/LG (12V in from ig.sw.) 86 - Bk/LG, Bk (ground); FP: 30 - Y (battery always 12V) 87 - Pk/Bk, Br, DG/Y (out to inertia sw.) 85 - R (12V in from EEC PWR relay) 86 - T/LG, LB/Or (ground from EEC)...It's OK to reverse 30 with 87, or 85 with 86 on either relay. It's possible to just use common insulated flat blade terminals to connect the bare wires to the relay terminals without a socket, but it's not as secure or convenient. Now the truck will be MUCH more reliable, and can use the cheaper, heavier-duty, more common ISO relays that are easier to swap. Tape up the harness & secure the relays to a safe mounting location. Not all relays have mounting tabs like these, but the sockets or harness can be zip-tied to something solid..." @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/507187 ○ Here is the 1989 EVTM, Emissions & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @ https://drive.google.com/drive/mobil...?usp=drive_webSlow scrolling for me with lousy Comcast service.. Find page # of item desired in contents, then flip screen flip down like spinning a bearing (a no-no) then stopping periodically to see which page you're on. ○ Free registration for some wiring diagrams (86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96), same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products @ http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb/ Here are some PCM KILLER perpetrators and other causes:Old leaky capacitors, see https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ore-codes.html by jowens1126Smell around the PCM. If it smells like dead fish, it's bad. Bad Intel 8061 chip or bad Intel 8361 memory chipBad Voltage Regulator, ee http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/images/eec085.gif by Ryan MBurned PCM printed circuit board circuits (brown burn marks). Water damage from cowl leaks, ESPECIALLY if you you have wet carpet or mat near driver kick panel; or on PCM Connector due to a bad hood seal near cowl panel, viewable with hood up.The alternator could be generating an AC voltage spike due to bad diode(s),Bronco was jump started on reverse polarity.Overheated PCM. gl! Al
  6. Yo j, Hello again J! Let me post these tests again for your review and posterity; DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing;Testing & Operation; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor monitors the position of the EGR valve pintle. The EVP sensor converts the mechanical movement of the pintle into an electrical voltage signal which is relayed to the PCM. The EVP sensor is a linear potentiometer in which resistance varies with the EGR valve pintle movement.Voltage is fed to the EVP by the signal return circuit. As the EGR is opened the EVP directs more voltage to the EEC and less down the voltage reference circuit. The EVP sensor provides the PCM with information on EGR flow and EGR system failures. The EVP should read between 0.24 and 0.67 volts at idle with a closed EGR valve..."http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...placement.html by Seattle FSB EGR Valve Test; "...these procedures are based around a typical OBD II Ford system but the overall principals should hold on most vehicle lines. Engine running, so be careful and use proper care! Find the EGR valve and disconnect the vacuum line going to the top of the valve. There should be no vacuum there at this time. If there is then check for proper EVR (EGR vacuum regulator) operation and vacuum line routing. Repair and continue testing. Hook up your hand vacuum pump to the EGR valve and slowly apply a vacuum. If the EGR valve is functioning then the engine should begin to run poorly and stumble. If you apply full vacuum and notice no RPM change or can’t pull a vacuum at all, then check for a faulty diaphragm in the valve or a restriction of the EGR tube, exhaust or intake manifold EGR ports. I have run across many concerns where the EGR passages in the intake manifolds become plugged with carbon and prevent EGR flow, so try to keep this in mind during testing. Repair and continue testing..." by ?Damaged EVP sensor pull vac hose off @ EVP - I pull it off and use the straw sucking test; one finger over one end; and... ya get the idea? Or grab a hand held vacuum pump with gauge availableat local parts store for a refundable deposit.•Corroded or dirty connector•Damaged EGR valve•➡️Faulty Vacuum system•Broken wire in harness•Grounded harness•Damaged Computer □ Misfiring/Pinging due to Improper Spark Plug Wire Routing for 5.0; Diagrams for 5.0, 87-93 & 94-96 5.0 HO - INCLUDES 5.8 Source: by Ford via Tank92 (Tank) °Try my vac leak test @ http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...Test%3B+idlingpost #11 Inspect PCV valve for correct operation and its vacuum hose. Pull it and shake it. Should hear a rattle if good. Air filter; is it relatively clean?Air inlet atop radiator support to filter box and to throttle body; look for obstruction; damaged tubing, openings in tubing, or loose fit at throttle body. Fuel quality; Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. You can check stored gasoline by pouring some into a clear glass container and comparing it side-by-side with known fresh gasoline. If your old sample looks noticeably darker than the fresh gas, you have strong evidence the gas has gone bad. May need to test pressure and filter if all other possible perpetrators are cleared of this crime.Electrical connectors; inspect for corrosion, etc at coil, firewall, ICM, distributor, PCM, etc. especially those with broken locking tabs. Check for correct base timing. Check distributor cap, adapter, and rotor. Inspect spark plugs and plug wires.. Power and Grounds Check from batty post, terminasl to starter relay and alternator . Check both battery posts, and cables, connectors for looseness and corrosion. If you see corrosion on a cables wires strands between connectors or lugs and leading into the insulation, peel back the insulation to see how far back it reaches. check grounds from battery to frame, block, upper intake manifold and small black wires on inner fender near hood hinge on driver side. G100 @ LH front of engine compartment on upper radiator support-in front of WS washer/Coolant overflow tank; G101 front of fender apron-between starter relay & headlight, etc. Restricted Exhaust is much less likely: Inspect the exhaust system for crushed, bent or otherwise restricted pipes. Replace or repair as required. If pipes look good, temporarily remove the O2 sensor ahead of the converter. If symptoms are still present inspect for internal air gap pipe restriction ahead of the converter. If symptoms are no longer present, reinstall the front O2 sensor, remove the O2 sensor behind the converter and retest the vehicle. If symptoms are still present the converter is causing the restriction. Check for rich condition, excessive oil consumption, misfires or other root cause of failure. If symptoms are no longer present with the rear O2 sensor removed, the restriction is in the muffler or resonator. Inspect and replace resonator or muffler assembly as required. Here is the 1989 EVTM, Emissions & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @ https://drive.google.com/drive/mobil...?usp=drive_webSlow scrolling for me with lousy Comcast service.. Find page # of item desired in contents, then flip screen flip down like spinning a bearing (a no-no) then stopping periodically to see which page you're on.1989 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1989 Ford BroncoFree registration for some wiring diagrams (86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96), same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products: http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb/
  7. miesk5

    Defoger

    Yo, For sure Joe!
  8. miesk5

    C6 transmission not engaging

    Yo, I got hung up in a 5 minute lag here. Any issues on your end diy?
  9. miesk5

    C6 transmission not engaging

    Yo diy, No. Manual shift valve inside transmission pan not connected or stuck. see https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1513688-how-to-remove-86-f150-c6-initial-shift-linkage-arm-from-shaft.html
  10. miesk5

    OBD II CODE TEST

    C5 CHECK FOR VPWR TO IAC SOLENOID Key off. TP sensor disconnected. Disconnect Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between the VPWR circuit at the IAC vehicle harness connector and the battery negative post. Key off. Was voltage greater than 10.5 volts? Yes No RECONNECT IAC solenoid. For Probe: GO to C13. All Others: GO to C6. VPWR is not present. RECONNECT TP sensor. For applications with EEC-V Power Relay inside CCRM (Mustang, Taurus/Sable and Thunderbird/Cougar): GO to Pinpoint Test Step X1. All others: GO to Pinpoint Test Step B1. C6 CHECK FOR SHORTED DPFE OR EGR VALVE POSITION SENSOR Key off. TP sensor disconnected. Disconnect DPFE sensor (EGR valve position sensor for 5.0L Explorer). Key on, engine off. Again measure voltage between VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE DPFE sensor (EGR valve position sensor for 5.0L Explorer). RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. For applications with a Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor (Taurus/Sable, Crown Victoria (ex. NG)/Grand Marquis, Town Car, Explorer, 4.2L F-Series and 4.6L F-Series): GO to C7. For applications with an A/C Pressure (ACP) sensor (Escort/Tracer, Continental and Mark VIII): GO to C8. For applications with Power Steering Pressure (PSP) sensor (2.0L Contour/Mystique): GO to C10. For applications with Injection Pressure (IP) sensor (NG Crown Victoria): GO to C11. All others: GO to C15. C7 CHECK FOR SHORTED FTP SENSOR Key off. TP and DPFE sensors disconnected. Disconnect FTP sensor. Again, measure voltage between the VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE the FTP sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to C15. C8 CHECK FOR SHORTED ACP SENSOR Key off. TP and DPFE sensors disconnected. Disconnect ACP sensor. Key on, engine off. Again measure voltage between the VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE ACP sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. For Continental equipped with optional Traction Control (with TP-B sensor): GO to C9. All others: GO to C15. C9 CHECK FOR SHORTED TP-B SENSOR Key off. TP, DPFE and ACP sensors disconnected. Disconnect Throttle Position sensor B (TP-B). Key on, engine off. Again measure voltage between VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE TP-B sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to C15. C10 CHECK FOR SHORTED PSP SENSOR Key off. TP and DPFE sensors disconnected. Disconnect PSP sensor. Again, measure voltage between the VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE the PSP sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to C15. C11 CHECK FOR SHORTED IP SENSOR Key off. TP and DPFE sensors disconnected. Disconnect IP sensor. Again, measure voltage between the VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE the IP sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to C15. C13 CHECK FOR SHORTED EGRP SENSOR Key off. TP sensor disconnected. Disconnect EGR Position (EGRP) sensor. Key on, engine off. Again, measure voltage between the VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE EGRP sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to C14. C14 CHECK FOR SHORTED EGRB SENSOR Key off. TP and EGRP sensors disconnected. Disconnect EGR Boost (EGRB) sensor. Key on, engine off. Again, measure voltage between the VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE EGRB sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to C15. C15 CHECK VPWR TO PCM Key off. TP sensor disconnected. All other sensors wired to VREF disconnected from previous test steps (if necessary, refer to Sensors Connected ToVREF chart at the beginning of this pinpoint test). Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between Test Pin 71 (VPWR) and Test Pin 77 (PWR GND) at the breakout box. Is voltage greater than 10.5 volts? Yes No GO to C16. SERVICE open VPWR circuit between PCM and splice to IAC solenoid. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C16 CHECK VREF CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND OR SIG RTN Key off. TP sensor disconnected. All other sensors wired to VREF disconnected. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. Disconnect Scan Tool from DLC. Measure resistance between Test Pin 90 (VREF) and Test Pins 51 or 103 (PWR GND) and 91 (SIG RTN) at the breakout box. Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? Yes No REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. SERVICE VREF short to ground. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C20 CHECK VREF CONTINUITY TO PCM Key off. Sensor where VREF check failed disconnected. Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 90 (VREF) at the breakout box and the VREF circuit at the appropriate sensor vehicle harness connector. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. SERVICE open VREF circuit. REFER to the EVTM schematic (if available), etc. and DTCs received to help pinpoint the location of the open. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C25 CAN THE ECT PID BE ACCESSED? Key on, engine off. Attempt to access the ECT PID. Can the ECT PID be accessed? Yes No GO to C26. GO to C28. C26 ARE KOEO DTCs PRESENT FOR TWO OR MORE SENSORS/SWITCHES CONNECTED TO THE SIG RTN CIRCUIT? Are KOEO DTCs present for two or more sensors/switches connected to the SIG RTN circuit (refer to the EEC-V schematic in Description and Operation)? Yes No GO to C27. SERVICE open SIG RTN circuit to the sensor where the VREF check failed. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C27 CHECK SIG RTN CIRCUIT CONTINUITY TO PCM Key off. Scan Tool disconnected. Sensor where VREF check failed disconnected. Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between the SIG RTN circuit at the appropriate sensor vehicle harness connector and Test Pin 91 (SIG RTN) at the breakout box. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No RECONNECT sensor. GO to C28. SERVICE open SIG RTN circuit. REFER to the EVTM schematic (if available), etc. and DTCs received to help pinpoint the location of the open. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C28 CHECK PCM PWR GND CIRCUITS Key off. Disconnect Scan Tool from DLC. Breakout box installed, processor disconnected. Measure resistance between the battery negative post and Test Pins 51, 77 and 103 (PWR GND) at the breakout box. Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No GO to C29. SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C29 CHECK GROUND CIRCUITS IN PCM Key off. Scan Tool disconnected. Breakout box installed. Connect PCM to breakout box. Measure resistance between Test Pin 91 (SIG RTN) and Test Pins 51, 77 and 103 (PWR GND) at the breakout box. Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No SIG RTN/PWR GND circuits are OK in the harness and PCM. VERIFY results of previous test steps. RERUN Quick Test to verify DTC/symptom. REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C35 CHECK VREF FOR SHORT TO POWER Key off. Sensor where VREF check failed disconnected. Disconnect all other sensors connected to VREF (refer to Sensors Connected to VREF chart at beginning of this pinpoint test). Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Leave PCM disconnected. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between the VREF circuit at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector and the battery negative post. Is voltage less than 0.5 volts? Yes No REPLACE PCM. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. SERVICE VREF short to power in harness. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.
  11. miesk5

    C6 transmission not engaging

    Yo diy, Lokar should be able to give you tips.
  12. miesk5

    C6 transmission not engaging

    Yo, I believe Ford went from cable to rods sometime 80s, so; Shift Linkage Parts Break-Out Diagram in an 88 with nomenclature http://web.archive.org/web/20051229052026/http://ylobronc.users.superford.org:80/documents/linkage3.gif by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) Kick Down; "...I believe it's 1987+ that uses a cable and not a rod. Find a 1987+ Ford truck, van or Bronco that has a 302 or 351 with C6 and it'll have the cable you need..." Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) Shift Indicator Adjustment; "...There's a thin cable going from the shifter to the shift indicator. Once you take off the steering column cover, you'll see the small cable and the shift indicator component. The positioning is adjustable, just have to unscrew it and move it around till you get what you want..." Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at FSB Shift Indicator Cable Repair in an 84; "...The plastic tubing that holds the gear indicator cable is broken in several places, starting at the point where it meets the indicator housing, which removes from the rest of the cluster with two screws. I ended up removing the cable entirely (which was broken as well) and replacing it with a thin piece of wire (from a CAT5 cable, actually) that is flexible but rigid enough to not bind. I still need to find a thin enough piece of plastic line to house it before I can reattach it to the shift arm, though..." Source: by jkorbes at FSB W
  13. miesk5

    87-91 Front Bumper

    Yo, See https://www.carid.com/xenon/front-air-dam-unpainted-mpn-5361.html?singleid=453429214&url=3053990 Picture, info and price are copyrighted here, but was able to find an un-copyrighted pic; http://www.uniqueconceptsusa.com/catalog/index/220?conversion=Other+Companies&year=124&make=61&model=107&category=%2Fcatalog%2Findex%2F220 This is also shown @ https://www.bodykits.com/search.html?#!year%3D1987||make%3DFORD||model%3DBRONCO $433.99 ●● I have checked at: Call http://www.uniqueconceptsusa.com/catalog/index/220?conversion=Other+Companies&year=124&make=61&model=107&category=%2Fcatalog%2Findex%2F220 ⊙ http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/3d_carbon_front_air_dam/1104000062_1921.aspx ⊙ At https://www.carid.com/universal-bumper-lips/?vehicle=2306 "Please Note: There are no vehicle specific body kits available for your 1988 Ford Bronco. Please view our selection of universal fit products below. Dominator Race® D2X Dirt Lower Aero Valance (0 Reviews)# 1119280148 Universal D2X Dirt Lower Aero Valance by Dominator Race®. Material: Durable hi-impact plastic. Quantity: 2 pieces. 3-1/2" wide-lowerd left side of nose. This product is made of high-quality materials to serve you for years to come.... High quality at an affordable price Expertly made from premium materials +2 $76.67 Dominator Race® Modified Valance Kit (0 Reviews)# 1119278148 Universal Modified Valance Kit by Dominator Race®. Material: Durable hi-impact plastic. Quantity: 3 pieces. This product is made of high-quality materials to serve you for years to come. Designed using state-of-the-art technology and... +2 $88.17 Dominator Race more details on - https://www.carid.com/universal-bumper-lips/?vehicle=2306 ..." ⊙ See this Go Industries Air Dam Valence, no dimensions https://rstparts-com.3dcartstores.com/mobile/87-91-Ford-Bronco-F-150-F-250-Air-Dam-Valance_p_55.html NPD, JEFFS, ETC, GOOD LUCK!
  14. miesk5

    C6 transmission not engaging

    Yo diy, Yes if fluid is in vacuum line, replace modulator. Yes, black striped modualtor.
  15. miesk5

    C6 transmission not engaging

    Yo, part deux, NOTE: If automatic transmission fluid is present in the vacuum side of the vacuum modulator or in the vacuum hose, the vacuum modulator's diaphragm is leaking and must be replaced. by Ford C6 Description & Operation, Adjustments, Diagnosis & Testing (partial), Disassembly & Assembly, Parts Break-Out Diagram, Hydraulic Control System Diagram, Removal & Installation & Specifications @ http://web.archive.org/web/20090529064029/http://www.thedieselfiles.com/Ford/C6%20Automatic%20tranny.pdf
  16. miesk5

    C6 transmission not engaging

    Yo diy, Vacuum Modulator on passenger side of transmission; Check for vacuum at mod. Should be around 16 - 21 psi in idle. Pull vac line off,if there is a flow of trans fluid, replace modulator. Low fluid level Shift linkage;Purl="http://web.archive.org/web/20101224143958/http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/linkage3.gif"]http://web.archive.org/web/20101224143958/http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/linkage3.gif[/url]" Parts Break-Out Diagram in an 88 with nomenclature @ http://web.archive.org/web/20051229052026/http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/linkage3.gif">http://web.archive.org/web/20051229052026/http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/linkage3.gif by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy Vacuum Modulator Replacement in an 89; "..The different color bands indicate the diameter of the rubber diaphragm inside the modulator. The two COMMON colors from auto parts suppliers are PURPLE and GREEN. These are for CARS. TRUCKS like OURS REQUIRE the BLACK banded modulator, likely from a transmission shop or dealer. This is regarding the mid/late 80's models, maybe more... Id venture to say any C6 with a slip in modulator. Again, PURPLE and GREEN are NOT the correct units to use, BLACK is the intended modulator as was designed for TRUCKS; by MyFullSize (Andrew) Or Clogged filter.
  17. miesk5

    quick wheel question (or two)

    Yo, "Evenly tighten 1/2-20 lug nuts to 74-133 lb-ft NOTE: Torque specifications are for clean, dirt- and paint-free, dry bolt and nut threads. Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts." by Ford
  18. miesk5

    quick wheel question (or two)

    Yo, CrazyBRONCOguy 04:18 PM 02-24-2016 wrote: "The lug nuts you have for your wheels should work fine with that steel wheel. The Ford steel wheels have the taper on them, as to the factory aluminum ones. I had a f-150 that I have had each on without issue" JScatt 05:10 PM 02-24-2016 "Quoted: Originally Posted by Mikey350 "All my Bronco's have used the same 1/2 x 20 TAPERED SEAT lugnuts. I have/had the premium wheels on all of them, and the spare was ALWAYS a steel wheel rather than the aluminum rim. (The factory lugs have a thin sheetmetal shell over a steel lugnut, FoMoCo doesn't recommend using an impact wrench on those lugs, because if you do, the sheetmetal shell will loosen,and eventually fall off.)" Exactly this^^^. All the factory wheels used the 1/2-20 tapered nuts prolly for the last billion years or so." But the new wheels need to looked at by a tire/wheel shop for the lug nut type.
  19. miesk5

    quick wheel question (or two)

    Yo diy, I don't know. Stop by a mom and pop tire store and ask. I will look in my 96 Owners Manual, will post if I find anything relevant.
  20. miesk5

    quick wheel question (or two)

    Yo diy, Tried to reply yesterday, but my Comcast stopped, then got error messages here, so... See http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/744829 http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/910883 & https://www.roadkillcustoms.com/wheel-bolt-pattern-cross-reference/5x5.5-wheel-bolt-pattern-5x139.7mm-5x5.50-inches/#Hub_Center_Bore "Bore 3.45 inches is the rear when I had custom axleshafts built. front is the same." By Kingfish or measure the hole in your spare. I personally would trust my own numbers. https://www.4wheelparts.com/a/tire-wheel-package-guide-wheel-offset-backspacing I lost all my back spacing info when my German Host comoany took my annual fee and ran.
  21. Yo, Consider Dorman - Conduct-Tite Top and Side Post Anti Corrosion Washers $2.00 @ most parts stores,
  22. miesk5

    Transfer case swap

    Yo, Good! YW! BTW, Note, 96 Workshop Manual is same as most earlier years especially 92-96, except for:92 through 95 uses the Electronic Engine Control, version Four (EEC-IV, aka On Board Diagnostics (OBD-I)) engine management computer.96 uses the OBD-II (EEC-V) engine management computer;4WABS (93-96);RABS (87-92);Air Bag (94-96);3 Screw Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.);R134a in 94-96;2-piece Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS) used on 5/95 to 96 Broncos & F Series 1/2-ton 4WD;Speed density EFI uses a Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP), a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), an Air Intake Temperature Sender (ACT) that gives the engine certain volumetric efficiencies over it's RPM range. Speed density EFI also uses what is called bank fire injection. 4 injectors are fired at one time on each side of the engine (only 2 wires for firing injectors from EEC-IV).Mass Air Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), aka Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection (SEFI) in 95 5.8 California models and in all 96s. Mass Air directly reads the mass of air (or number of molecules of air). By doing this, it can detect the changes in the volume of air, in addition to it's pressure & temperature. Mass air has one separate wire for each injector & fires them twice for every power stroke of the engine. This makes the injector timing more accurate & will help emissions along with power.96 5.8 do not have the Air Injection (AIR), Secondary Air Injection; Pump (Smog Pump), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoids; Diverter, Check & Bypass Valves, Cross-Over Tube, etc. But 96 5.0 does have the system.Only 95 5.8L California models & all 96 have the Differential Pressure Feedback (DPFE) Sensor instead of EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor.The 96, Vapor Management Valve (VMV) replaces the canister purge valve (CanP valve) used in EEC IV. But the 96 manual still shows CanP valve probably because it was a late addition to the 96 production line.The Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) in a 93 Bronco is located on the driver side frame rail, but in 94 through 96 it is on the master cylinder.Still researching other differences.
  23. miesk5

    Transfer case swap

    Yo, All I know is to go by the diagram. Here is the 1996 Bronco Workshop Manual http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm See Section 07-07A: Transfer Case, Electronic Shift DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj77a13.htm Or manual shift My COMCAST keeps freezing. Remove Yoke to Flange Seal
  24. miesk5

    Transfer case swap

    Yo, Overwrote this: BW 1356 Manual (F1TA-7A195-EA) Exploded (shown with optional PTO plate)IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.1 7045 Shaft Nut (163-203Nm, 120-150 lb-ft)2 7B368 Output Shaft Yoke Washer 3 7052 Oil Seal 4 7B215 Yoke to Flange Seal 5 -- Extension (Rear Spline) Cap, Bearing (Rear Yoke/Flange) (Serviced As Part of 7085 Assembly) 6 7085 Extension Assembly (Rear Spline) Cap Assembly, Bearing (Rear Yoke/Flange)7 7A443 Bolt and Washer Assembly (30-49Nm, 22-36 lb-ft)8 -- Flange (Rear Flange) (Serviced As Part of 7B214 Assembly)9 7917 Ring, Snap10 7025 Bearing 11 7917 Ring, Snap12 7100 Shift Collar Hub 13 7127 Caged Needle Bearing 14 7A010 Plug, Pipe (9-23Nm, 7-17 lb-ft)15 7917 Ring, Retaining 16 7D164 Lockup Hub17 7D126 Spring, Lockup18 7106 Lockup Collar 19 7177 Sprocket, Drive 20 7A210 Hose 21 382486-S Clamp, Hose 22 7A291 Pump Housing to Case Bolt (4-4.5Nm, 36-40 lb-in)23 7E215 Retainer, Pump24 7A152 Cover, Pump 25 7A149 Housing, Pump 26 7A250 Pin, Pump 27 7A205 Spring, Pump Pin 28 7061 Output Shaft 29 7100 Shift Collar Hub 30 7A398 Front Planet 31 7C122 Ring, Retaining 32 7A153 Ring Gear 33 7A098 Filter, Oil 34 -- Gear, PTO (with PTO Only)35 7917 Ring, Retaining 36 -- Ring, Retaining (Part of 7B215) 37 7166 Case Deflector Gasket (with PTO Only)38 7165 Transfer Case Cover (with PTO Only) 39 381673-S Bolt (with PTO Only) 40 7034 Vent 41 7E440 4WD Indicator Switch 42 -- Setscrew (Part of 7E440) 43 -- Fork, Reduction (Serviced As Part of 7289 Assembly)44 -- Facing, Shift Fork (Serviced As Part of 7289 Assembly)45 7289 Ford Assembly Reduction 46 7235 Roller, Cam (Service As Part of 7289 Assembly) 47 -- Pin (Part of 7289)48 7C430 Facing, Shift Fork49 -- Retainer (Serviced As Part of 7289 Assembly) 50 7289 Fork Assembly, Shift, 2W-4W 51 7240 Shift Rail52 7219 Shift Fork Spring53 7C349 Spring, Detent54 7C191 Bushing, Detent 55 7F063 Cam, Shift56 7288 Shifter Shaft Seal57 7B106 Lever, Shaft and Pin Assembly58 7005 Case Front 59 -- Pin Dowel (Part of 7005) 60 7L027 Oil Pan Magnet61 7917 Ring, Retaining 62 7061 Output Shaft 63 7177 Sprocket, Driven 64 7119 Thrust Washer 65 7917 Ring, Retaining 66 7A029 Chain, Drive 67 -- Yoke (Serviced As Part of 7B214 Assembly)68 7005 Case RearF2TZ-7210-K 4X4 Shifter Assembly (Mazda R2, ZFLD)F2TZ-7210-N 4X4 Shifter Assembly (E4OD)F2TZ-7210-P 4X4 Shifter Assembly (T18, C6, AOD, ZFHD)F2TZ-7B051-A Control Rod (Mazda R2, ZFLD 7.25" OC)F2TZ-7B051-B Control Rod (ZFHD)F2TZ-7B051-C Control Rod (T18, C6)F2TZ-7B051-D Control Rod (AOD)F2TZ-7B051-E Control Rod (E4OD)The ZF/C6 shifter detent plate also fits the Mazda M5OD-R2.
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