Jump to content
66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

miesk5

Moderators
  • Content Count

    7,491
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by miesk5

  1. Yo 94, No one that I know has a pic of the "clip" . A friend of mine jury rigged a replacement clip, but never snapped a pic of it. Ask at a Ford dealership parts section. Show them the attached Bronco Graveyard diagram showing a depiction of the clip.. The tailgate Vertical interlock "rod assembly" guide clip snaps into the "Lower Torsion Bar Bracket" and upper part connects to Control Mechanism, aka Center Mechanism, . It "jams" the inside handle until the glass is all the way down. This bracket is bolted on. See how BikerPepe` "Also a good time to consider removing the "window down" safety feature... fixed it by securing the center mechanism Removing the L bracket and the rod... eliminates the safety feature If you choose to go that route... you need to be mindful that dropping the tailgate with the window still raised enough to contact the edge of the gate, can easily shatter the glass and potentially cause inury, or at least a considerable mess and major hassle, replacing said glass/defroster/etc. Handle according to your ability, confidence and that of others you may let use your rig.That said... removing the L bracket is easy. I simply took a grinder to the rear of the rivet at the center of the L bracket, on the back side.Once you've done that... no need to install the safety catch rod (or a place to put it, for that matter) and you might be able to re-use that same rod keeper, plastic clip... if it's in better shape than one you're keeping in service. If not... I've seen them available somewhere but have no idea to link you. This is the lever to remove if you want to delete the "window down" safety feature... passed" it by deleting the "window down" safety feature... This is the lever to remove if you want to delete the "window down" safety feature... See the two attachments below. Go through http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2742/12689-2 For a vg good collection of Big Bronco tailgate tech by Steve.
  2. Yo B, Best is to call Holley®. GL!
  3. Yo PRERUNNER BRONCO, Welcome, Please cite your year if you have any questions. GLz!
  4. Yo B, Are you using an electric fuel pump? Which brand pressure gauge/sender? Holley states: Please call Tech Support at 1-866-464-6553, M-F, 8-6 CST. Please have the part number of the product on hand when you call. Connect the fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter and the filter to the inlet port of the pump. Connect the carburetor feed line to the outlet port of the pump. Use of 3/8” fuel hose is recommended.A #6 (3/8") line size is sufficient for all street performance applications and some racing applications. #8 (1/2") fuel lines are used on everything else, including alcohol applications. Avoid using rubber fuel lines, or use them sparingly, for two reasons. First, rubber is more resistant to the flow of fuel than any hard line. An actual pressure loss can be measured over distance. Carbureted vehicle fuel pump; Most electric fuel pumps, including Holley are gravity fed and require mounting below the fuel tank. "MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS FOR ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPS: Due to the current poor quality gasoline that’s available, it is recommended that periodically a can of dry gas be used to absorb the water out of the fuel delivery system. The fuel filter element should be blown clean with compressed air every 6,000 miles and replaced every 12,000 miles to assure maximum protection. If your fuel pump fails to pump or fails to maintain adequate pressure, check the following: 1. Check the voltage at the pump to ensure 12-volt supply. 2. If this doesn’t solve the problem, turn the pump on and listen for a hum from the top of the pump. If there is no hum, the pump’s electrical system should be checked by a competent mechanic. If the pump hums, it probably only needs to be cleaned. 3. Check the fuel line (especially the fuel filter) for any obstruction. Use compressed air to blow the line free."
  5. Yo Zack, Welcome! Following is what a mechanic would check. Try to do as much as you can yourself. Feel free to ask more questions. For slow cranking:Inspect for loose battery posts, connectors, cables and visible wire strands & under insulation an inch or so under coonectors:- inspect for corrosion, damage or looseness.- include ground cables from battery post & connector to engine, frame, intake manifold, hood, etc.;- and positive cable from battery to relay to starter.- check starter relay body to inner fender for tightness to a clean, non-rusted/grime -free surface.- check battery for full charge; Voltage; "...a normal battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts, not just 12.0 V. by El Kabong "Cheesy clamp on end. Do not use for a long term repair. Only to get you home when nothing else is available. If you have one of these, suspect it before anything else" El Kabong @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...lies-faqs.html- use the red and black battery anti-corrosion felt "washers".Slow Cranking or a Grinding Noise; "... Problems with the negative battery cable is a major cause of starting problems in Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. Bad battery cables can cause slow cranking or a grinding noise when trying to start an engine. On some late model vehicles, the wire connection inside the battery terminal connector corrodes easily.➡️miesk5 note, look for greenish corrosion under insulation neat the connector.This will cause a voltage drop in the cable and result in low voltage being supplied to the starter. You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..."Source: by genco1.com"...Why are the cables and battery so important? The starter circuit pulls a lot of amperage, up to 500 amps depending on the starter, the engine load, and battery condition. This kind of amperage stresses all of the components in the starter circuit, including the battery, battery terminals, the cables including the ground path. Problems with these components are hard to find because they appear fine at rest or under a light load, but generate high resistance under heavy amperage draws. The result will be low voltage to the starter during cranking, resulting in heavier amperage draw and increased internal heat in the starter. Over time, this will cause starter failure. Voltage measured at the starter during cranking should always be above 9.5VDC..."Source: by powermastermotorsportsIf all passes, pull starter for a free starter no-load test @ local parts store. ● Shuts Off While Driving: Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19Post Code(s) here according to:KOEO & KOERA helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTSOr ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you. The majority of parts chain stores tests just OBDII vehicles now.Or purchase a coder reader such as;"Innova ODB-1 and we generally recommend getting the extension cord with it, so you can work the ignition key in the cab while watching/holding the reader. It will save the codes but knowing when to go through the cycles and ensuring you get it right the first time can save time and hassle, especially if you're working on it by yourself, as most of us do." by BikerPepe`. Some Code for now; DTC 14 & 18; If the distributor mounted Thick FiIm Ignition Module is failing from heat, it can give off computer codes 14 (PIP) and 18 (SPOUT). Stalling or sputtering when, hot but runs when it cools off can be caused by a faulty Module and the biggest culprits are heat. Another culprit can be a wire grounding out. Stall, NO Start - This bulletin addresses loss of module ground due to salt and moisture entering a module mounting screw. NO Start/Stall at Idle - New Ignition Module: This TSB talks about an internal short-circuit in some model TFI modules. Driveability Concerns - Moist EEC-IV Connectors: This bulletin asks the tech to check for unsealed EEC-IV connectors and check for moisture or corrosion. Wiring: Always check your wiring. Here is a picture of SPOUT (Spark Output signal) wire that was grounding out. The yellow spark output signal wire is without a section of insulation. This section happens to run through a shield ground that provided a convenient ground source for the SPOUT signal. Just the right bump in the road or vibration from the engine would provide a path of lesser resistance for the SPOUT signal, killing the coil trigger. SPOUT Connector pic in an 88 5.0 by jem270 BTW, the SPOUT connector is pulled out when timing the engine. ... This is where the TFI Modile plugs in to the distributor to get the PIP signal. Notice the defective insulation. Heat Is Your Enemy!: The top three leads (for PIP signal) can lose continuity with the back plate (ground) on the module when the unit is hot. You should consider a remote mounted TFI. Ignition Control Module (ICM) Location pic @ distributor in an 89 it's the rectangular object with wires on right side. Source: by Handy_andy_cv64 (Ed ) Take your ignition module off and have it tested. Have them test it up to three times. If it fails any one of those times, replace it. It is located on. Ignition Control Module (ICM) Removal Tips @ distributor; "...To remove the TFI = thick film integrated module you need to loosen the saftey "lock bolt" at base of the distributor so you can TURN the distributor for better access and removal but make a referecne mark so you can turn the distributor back exactly where it was otherwise you'll have to re-set the timimg so it will start and run properly. There's a special tool "ignition module socket, mfg by Powerbuilt # 648420 so you can remove the screws on the module to replace it BUT to test it you just need to turn the ignition key to the "RUN" position, engine off. don't remember what I paid for the "socket" maybe $15.00 range...?Source: by our late friend, JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) Go through this guide;Part 1 -How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).How To Test The Ford Ignition Control Module (Distributor Mounted) @ https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/ignition-control-module-tests-1 ●Some other Stalls When Hot Tests without a Code: "Long crank times may be traced to a sticking Idle Air Control (IAC) valve (TSB 97-9-5, April '97); "...After a 1-4 hour engine soak time, long crank times and/or long crank to start followed by a stall may occur on some vehicles. No further stalling or rough idle will occur after the engine is running. The long crank and/or stall may be due to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve sticking. Replace the IAC Valve with a revised IAC Valve if no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present." ● "Unplug the MAP sensor on the passenger side firewall and see if it starts. If it starts, you have a bad MAP sensor. Typically the computer will throw a MAP communication code for that one though".by Lil' RedMAP Location picby Richard C (Bigric, Money Pit)¤Unplug/test the IAC by SeattleFSB @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...-your-iac.html ●Some no code usual suspects by Ford;Vacuum Leak; "One way to do a quick check is to grab a vacuum gauge. Some parts stores will loan you a gauge with refundable deposit.The vacuum gauge should read between 15 and 22 in-Hg depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. SUBTRACT ONE INCH FROM THE SPECIFIED READING FOR EVERY 1,000 FEET OF ELEVATION ABOVE SEA LEVEL.The reading should be quite steady. .When engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading. When throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost."see my leak diagnosis link in post #11 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...odes-idle.htmlAir filter, is it relatively clean?Air inlet atop radiator support to filter box and to throttle body; look for obstruction; damaged tubing, openings in tubing, loose fit at throttle body or if at MAF sensor.Fuel quality; Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. You can check stored gasoline by pouring some into a clear glass container and comparing it side-by-side with known fresh gasoline. If your old sample looks noticeably darker than the fresh gas, you have strong evidence the gas has gone bad.Electrical connectors; inspect for corrosion, etc at coil, firewall, ICM, distributor, PCM, etc. especially those with broken locking tabs. GL! Al
  6. miesk5

    Hey all new here

    Yo RICKYg76, Welcome! We have a 96 too, bought new. It is the best vehicle in our family's history. No engine, transmission, differential (s) issues. Mainly due to fluid changes according to Ford's severe duty schedule. Find out if speed control, if equipped, recall work completed by a dealership. Call local dealer or register and view status @ https://owner.ford.com; or @ https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/ ... have VIN ready."Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ml#post6530073Note that the 93 recall is different than the 94-96 recall. □ Here's the 96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) via 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual 96 Bronco Owner's Guide, Maintenance Schedules & Parts and Accessories by Ford @ https://www.fleet.ford.com/partsands...owner-manuals/ 96 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ https://www.supermotors.net/registry/3549/15947-2 ... scroll down 96 Bronco Quick Tips Brochure Excerpts & some Eddie Bauer options @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/80431-2 Free registration for some wiring diagrams (partial, 86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96) same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products | TSB's & Wiring Diagrams Register to see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @ http://owner.ford.com . GL with your 96! Al
  7. Yo Trecar, Welcome and THANKS for coming back with your solution! Find out if speed control, if equipped, recall work completed by a dealership. Call local dealer or register and view status @ https://owner.ford.com; or @ https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/ ... have VIN ready.The affected vehicles were previously repaired using a wiring harness that is not compatible with the vehicle circuit polarity. As a result, the fuse is located in the output circuit rather than in the intended input power feed circuit, and may not offer the intended protection in the event of an electrical short to ground. This could result in an underhood fire. Dealers will install a new wiring harness, or replace the mating electrical component. east302 provided following for his 93 "I found the recall information on alldata...didn't know it was even there so that's a plus. Mine has the updated harness with two fuses instead of one, so it looks like the recall was addressed correctly."Use this guide by jowens1126 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ml#post6530073Note that the 93 recall is different that the other years. Here is the 1993 Bronco Dealer Brochure in Google Drive @ https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-x...NNcGprQTA/view1993 Bronco Dealer Training Video via silver70 @ https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=Fvne3bosE3s1993 Bronco, Venezuela Commercial @ Free registration for some wiring diagrams (86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96), same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products | TSB's & Wiring Diagrams
  8. Yo Billy, Google "Big Bear fullsizebronco" for you tubes, etc. See https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/32-west-coast-chapter/17379-big-bear-bronco-bash-04-a.html Enjoy!
  9. Yo Billy, Yes, lock both hubs first, start engine, E4OD in park or Neutral, push the "4x4 button located on the instrument panel. This shift can be done at a stop or at speeds up to 55 miles per hour (88 km/h)." "...❑Do not drive the vehicle in 4H or 4L with the manual locking hubs in the FREE position. ❑Do not drive the vehicle with the left and right manual locking hubs set to different positions. However, the front driveline will remain engaged to the front wheels until the manual locking hubs are disengaged. To disengage the manual locking hubs, stop the vehicle and rotate both hub lock selector knobs counter-clockwise to the FREE position. ] Operating in 2H with the hubs in the LOCK position increases fuel consumption, noise, vibration, and wear. For prolonged 2H operation on dry pavement, set the manual locking hubs to the FREE position." BY FORD IN 1996 Owner Manual. Except Ford didn't want to mention manual locking hubs. Download a free copy @ https://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandE4OD in park orservice/owner-manuals/
  10. Yo Dameon, Welcome! Here ya go! Code reader or self test stops, try this "Scan Tool Won't Initiate Self-Test Due to Poor Grounds", Corroded Wiring, etc.; read more on how to Ground the STI & Proceed w/ Test;Source: by jermil01If still no codes, see No Codes by Ryan M @https://web.archive.org/web/20161015...om/page44.htmlDwell on items that can be easily tested such as battery voltage, etc. ● FYI; When the ignition switch is ON, it turns the EEC power relay ON. The EEC power relay provides power to the powertrain control module (PCM) . Check the relay, as long as horn can honk, swap horn relay in place of EEC power relay. EEC IV Power Relay is served by Maxi Fuse I (eye) in under hood power distribution box (PDB) . AND Maxi Fuse U serves Ignition Sys, PCM Power Relay Coil. PDB Diagram in a 95 by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) ● Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) Troubleshooting in 92-96; "...because wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown #17 fuse in TSB 92-22-5 for 92 Bronco & all Light Trucks. Had almost the same situation in my 96 a few yrs ago;Fuse #17 blew due to a harness short under steering column that affected the OD Cancel Light (it blinked randomly, no Trouble Codes or tranny malfunctions though); Here is a TSB that deals with it; for a 92 though.. and may apply... even tho year range is off... and your OD sw is in dash and 96's are on end of tranny stalk....but... itsa pure guess on my part..and it's an ez no $ check anyhowz1992 Ford Truck F 150 4WD Pickup V8-351 5.8LVehicle Level Transmission and Drivetrain Technical Service Bulletins Customer Interest Electrical Systems - Multiple MalfunctionsElectrical Systems - Multiple MalfunctionsArticle No. 92-22-5 10/21/92LIGHT TRUCK: 1992 BRONCO, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIESISSUE:The transmission control switch wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown # 17 fuse. The following symptoms may be associated with this concern.Early shifts Loss of power Poor acceleration3-4 shift cyclingTransmission control light cycling ON/OFF or inoperativeTransmission control switch inoperativeRear Anti-Lock Brake System (RABS) electronics (dash lights on, etc.) inoperativeLoss of instrumentation (tach, fuel gauge, etc.)Unable to read Self-Test codes (solid tone only)ACTION:Inspect the transmission control switch wiring for damage and repair or replace as necessary. Refer to the following procedure for service details.1. Remove the steering column cover. Refer to the 1992 Bronco/F-Series Service Manual, Section 11-04B, for the removal procedure.2. Examine the transmission control switch wiring for damage, Figure 1. (I don't have this Figure)3. Repair or replace the wiring as necessary.4. Install the steering column cover. Refer to the 1992 Bronco/F-Series Service Manual, Section 11-04B, for the installation procedure.CAUTION:DURING REASSEMBLY, ROUTE WIRING AWAY FROM ATTACHING SCREW SO AS NOT TO PINCH OR DAMAGE WIRE.OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONEWARRANTY STATUS:Eligible Under Bumper To Bumper Warranty CoverageOPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME922205A Repair Wiring 0.6 Hrs.DEALER CODINGBASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE15A808 X1 ● Was speed control, if equipped recall work completed by dealership? Call local dealer or register and view status @ https://owner.ford.com; or @ https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/ ... have VIN ready."Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."See this guide by jowens1126 to confirm recall status @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ml#post6530073Note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96.Here is the 1995 Bronco Dealer Brochure GL! Al
  11. Yo T, AOD is correct! ● Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19Post Code(s) here according to:KOEO & KOERA helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTSOr ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you. The majority of parts chain stores tests just OBDII vehicles now.Or purchase a coder reader such as;"Innova ODB-1 and we generally recommend getting the extension cord with it, so you can work the ignition key in the cab while watching/holding the reader. It will save the codes but knowing when to go through the cycles and ensuring you get it right the first time can save time and hassle, especially if you're working on it by yourself, as most of us do." by BikerPepe` Following should be verified at a trusted transmission shop or Ford dealership Service department, especially the throttle valve cable adjustment! Mis-adjustment can wreck the transmission internals!!! following in bold for some unknown reason` My AOD works fine in Park, Reverse, and Neutral, and will move forward in OD, D, and Low, but is always in first gear, what could cause this?There are a few common causes for this. The first is a disconnected or missing TV linkage. If the TV linkage is disconnected the transmission should default to full TV pressure which will make the transmission shift as if it were at Wide Open Throttle all the time. It is also possible that the TV valve in the valve body is stuck in the high pressure position. The easiest way to see if this is the case is to perform a TV pressure test as shown on our TV Linkage Adjustment Page. @ https://www.becontrols.com/tvlinkage.shtml If you are using a valve body with some mileage on it there may be enough of a ridge from the original range of travel to cause the TV valve to get stuck when it travels past the ridge.You could also have a stuck governor, or a stuck 1-2 shift valve. If the governor is sticking it will cause a delayed, or no upshift, depending on how bad the condition causing the sticking is. If the 1-2 shift valve is stuck, and will not stroke, the transmission will not shift out of first gear." byBaumann Electronic Controls, LLC ● by Jasper Engines & Transmissions ● See attached AOD INFO. ● 1989 Bronco Brochure @ http://www.lov2xlr8.no/brochures/ford/89bronco.html ● And 1989 Bronco Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM), Shop Manual, Emission Manual, etc by mrnewland1 https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0Bz1eScc6s4raOHd0WlVnMUw4WjQ?usp=drive_web Download it in case it is deleted from the internet. ● GOOD LUCK! Al
  12. Yo B, One possibility is "float needle valve is responsible for regulating the flow of fuel into the float bowl. When the tip of the valve becomes worn or debris prevents the closing of the valve, fuel flows continuously into the bowl thus flooding the engine. Under severe conditions gas may soak the air filter or overflow out of the carburetor and onto the ground while parked. Worn or stuck float valves are very common following prolonged storage or when gasoline has been allowed to sit inside the carburetor and begins to lacquer with age. Another common cause is the use of fuel containing any Ethanol. Many states now include anywhere from 5-15% Ethanol which can be detrimental to certain rubber parts over time. If the fuel in your state or region contains more than 10% Ethanol you may need to replace certain soft parts more often, including the float needle valve and the accelerator pump diaphragm." by CV Performance.
  13. Yo Jake, Welcome! Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19Post Code(s) here according to:KOEO & KOERA helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTSOr ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you. The majority of parts chain stores tests just OBDII vehicles now.Or purchase a coder reader such as;"Innova ODB-1 and we generally recommend getting the extension cord with it, so you can work the ignition key in the cab while watching/holding the reader. It will save the codes but knowing when to go through the cycles and ensuring you get it right the first time can save time and hassle, especially if you're working on it by yourself, as most of us do." by BikerPepe`. See my Vacuum leak test in post of Posted October 9, 2013 @ Air filter, is it relatively clean?Air inlet atop radiator support to filter box and to throttle body; look for obstruction; damaged tubing, openings in tubing, loose fit at throttle body or if equipped, at MAF sensor.Fuel quality; Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. You can check stored gasoline by pouring some into a clear glass container and comparing it side-by-side with known fresh gasoline. If your old sample looks noticeably darker than the fresh gas, you have strong evidence the gas has gone bad.Electrical connectors; inspect for corrosion, etc at coil, firewall, ICM, distributor, PCM, etc. especially those with broken locking tabs. A usual suspect is the Ignition Control Module mounted on driver side inner fender. some parts store may be able to test it, but ask them to test it at least 3 times so it heats up. 94-96 Broncos use BLACK CCD Ignition Module Motorcraft #DY1077. The parts stores and even Ford show incorrect part numbers, so go with DY1077 if it test bad and a related trouble code pops up.
  14. Yo B, Ok, if it doesn't work out find a Local NAPA store tgat has someone who can pull out fittingd cross reference books. You shoukd need to take in adapter, etc. Our NAPA store good guy looked up many parts for our John Deere RX mower ranging from OEM air filter source to switches.
  15. Yo B, I don't have that info, but to assist others, do you have an AOD or C6? Try asking sweet_performance @ https://www.ebay.com/contact/sendmsg?&recipient=sweet_performance&message_type_id=14
  16. /Yo 84, Welcome! If you have EEC 3 SEE, See more EEC 3 @ http://web.archive.org/web/20080719194641/http://home.comcast.net/~TommySpace/EEC3.html
  17. Yo T, Thanks! Now I know Ford dealerships have same mistaken ICM parts issue as the aftermarket suppliers. I checked ROCK AUTO yesterday for your CA emissions 95 Bronco 5.8 and they have Wells - F139 listed in the Info section for 6H1086 for alternate OEM part numbers. Let me know on your part number.
  18. Yo, But this set of tests includes use of Ford's old Break-Out Box; so, as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the break-out box, go to the EEC V connector pin instead; Substitute EEC V connector pin Number for breakout box number PCM Connector Pin-Out Diagram with Circuit Functions in a 96 5.0 and 5.8 Pin Number Circuit Circuit Function Iggie the ? Marks. 1 315 (P/O) PCM to Transmission Shift Solenoid No. 2 2 658 (P/LG) PCM to Check Engine Indicator Lamp 3 � Not Used 4 � Not Used 5 � Not Used 6 651 (BK/Y) Dedicated Ground 7 � Not Used 8 � Not Used 9 � Not Used 10 � Not Used 11 � Not Used 12 � Not Used 13 107 (P) PCM Flash EEPROM Power Supply 14 784 (LB/BK) 4x4 Low Range Switch to PCM Indicator Lamp 15 915 (PK/LB) J1850 Bus Negative/Data Negative (Return) to PCM 16 914 (T/O) J1850 Bus Positive/Data Positive 17 � Not Used 18 � Not Used 19 � Not Used 20 � Not Used 21 � Not Used 22 � Not Used 23 259 (O/R) Dedicated Ground to TFI Module 24 570 (BK/W) Dedicated Ground � PCM 25 875 (BK/LB) Ground Logic Module 26 � Not Used 27 237 (O/Y) PCM to Transmission Shift Solenoid No. 1 28 � Not Used 29 224 (T/W) Transmission Overdrive Cancel Switch to PCM 30 � Not Used 31 � Not Used 32 � Not Used 33 676 (PK/O) Vehicle Speed Sensor � Negative (Return) to PCM 34 � Not Used 35 392 (P/LG) Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor No. 3 to PCM 36 968 (T/LB) Mass Airflow Return 37 923 (O/BK) Transmission Oil Temperature to PCM 38 354 (LG/R) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor to PCM 39 743 (GY) Air Charge Temperature Sensor to PCM 40 238 (DG/Y) Fuel Pump Monitor to PCM/Fuel Pump Relay to Safety Switch 41 198 (DG/O) A/C Pressure Switch to Control Relay 42 � Not Used 43 � Not Used 44 200 (BR) PCM to Air Management No. 2 (Was TAD) 45 � Not Used 46 � Not Used 47 360 (BR/PK) PCM to Electronic Vacuum Regulator � Constant Current 48 382 (Y/BK) PCM to Test Connector No. 2 49 395 (GY/O) Profile Ignition Pickup to PCM 50 929 (PK) PCM to Spark Angle Pulse Width/Spark Output 51 570 (BK/W) Dedicated Ground � PCM 52 � Not Used 53 924 (BR/O) PCM to Transmission Coast Clutch Solenoid 54 480 (P/Y) PCM to Transmission Converter Clutch Control 55 37 (Y) Battery to Load 56 191 (LG/BK) PCM Top Vapor Management Valve � Constant Current 57 310 (Y/R) Knock Sensor No. 1 to PCM 58 679 (GY/BK) Vehicle Speed Sensor � Positive to PCM 59 917 (DG/LG) Misfire Detection Sensor � Feed 60 74 (GY/LB) Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor No. 1 to PCM 61 � Not Used 62 � Not Used 63 � Not Used 64 199 (LB/Y) Manual Lever Position Sensor to PCM 65 352 (BR/LG) Delta Exhaust Pressure Transducer to PCM 66 � Not Used 67 � Not Used 68 � Not Used 69 � Not Used 70 190 (W/O) PCM to Air Management No. 1 (Was TAB) 71 361 (R) Power Output from PCM Relay 72 561 (T/R) PCM to Fuel Injector No. 7 Cylinder 73 559 (T/BK) PCM to Fuel Injector No. 5 Cylinder 74 557 (W) PCM to Fuel Injector No. 3 Cylinder 75 555 (T) PCM to Fuel Injector No. 1 Cylinder or Bank No. 1 76 570 (BK/W) Dedicated Ground � PCM 77 570 (BK/W) Dedicated Ground � PCM 78 � Not Used 79 911 (W/LG) PCM to Output Circuit Indicator Lamp/Overdrive Cancel Indicator 80 926 (LG/O) PCM to Fuel Pump Relay Control 81 925 (W/Y) PCM to Electronic Pressure Control No. 1 82 � Not Used 83 264 (W/LB) PCM to Idle Speed Control Motor No. 1 84 136 (DB/Y) Output Shaft Speed to PCM 85 � Not Used 86 � Not Used 87 94 (R/BK) Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor No. 2 to PCM 88 967 (LB/R) Mass Air Flow Sensor to PCM 89 355 (GY/W) Throttle Position Sensor to PCM/Diesel Fuel Injector Pump Lever Sensor 90 351 (BR/W) Power to Engine Sensors 91 359 (GY/R) Sensor Signal Return 92 511 (LG) Stoplamp (Brake On/Off) Switch to Stoplamps 93 387 (R/W) HEGO Sensor Heater Voltage Monitor No. 1 to PCM 94 388 (Y/LB) HEGO Sensor Heater Voltage Monitor No. 2 to PCM 95 389 (W/BK) HEGO Sensor Heater Voltage Monitor No. 3 to PCM 96 � Not Used 97 361 (R) Power Output from PCM Relay 98 562 (LB) PCM to Fuel Injector No. 8 Cylinder 99 560 (LG/O) PCM to Fuel Injector No. 6 Cylinder 100 558 (BR/LB) PCM to Fuel Injector No. 4 Cylinder 101 556 (W) PCM to Fuel Injector No. 2 Cylinder or Bank No. 2 102 � Not Used 103 570 (BK/W) Dedicated Ground � PCM 104 � Not Used A1 ATTEMPT TO CRANK ENGINE NOTE Note: Verify Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch is set (button pushed in). Refer to Owner Guide for location. Does engine crank? Yes No GO to A2. REFER to Group 03 in Service Manual. A2 IDENTIFY TYPE OF NO START NOTE Note: The purpose of this Test Step is to identify intermittent No Starts in order to guide the technician to the proper repair procedure. Does the vehicle start now? Yes No Vehicle is an intermittent No Start. GO to Pinpoint Test Step Z50and prepare to use the Ignition Intermittent Analyzer, DIST tool. Natural Gas Crown Victoria: GO to A15. 3.0L Windstar: GO to A3. All Others: GO to A4. A3 CHECK MIL DURING CRANK Key off. Key on, observe Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). MIL should be on, if not, go to Pinpoint Test Step NB1 Turn the key to start position and observe MIL while cranking the engine. Did the MIL turn off during crank? Yes No MIL turning off during crank indicates PIP circuit is OK. GO to A4. GO to A6. A4 CHECK FOR VREF AT THROTTLE POSITION (TP) SENSOR Key off. Disconnect TP sensor. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between VREF circuit and SIG RTN circuit at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Is voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No RECONNECT TP sensor. GO to A5. GO to Pinpoint Test Step C1. C1 IS VREF GREATER THAN 6.0 VOLTS? C2 CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE Is VREF greater than 6.0 volts? Yes No GO to C35(to check VREF for short to power). GO to C2. C2 CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE Key on, engine off. Measure voltage across battery terminals. Is voltage greater than 10.5 volts? Yes No GO to C3. Key off. REFER to the Charging/Electrical Group in the Service Manual to service discharged battery. C3 CHECK SIG RTN CIRCUIT TO SENSOR WHERE VREF CHECK FAILED Key on, engine off. Sensor where VREF check failed disconnected. Measure voltage between battery positive post and SIG RTN circuit at the appropriate sensor vehicle harness connector. Is voltage greater than 10.5 volts and within 1.0 volt of battery voltage? Yes No GO to C4. SIG RTN/PWR GND fault present. GO to C25. C4 CAN THE ECT PID BE ACCESSED? Key on, engine off. Attempt to access the ECT PID. Can the ECT PID be accessed? Yes No GO to C20(to check VREF for opens). GO to C5(to check for VPWR, and VREF for shorts). C5 CHECK FOR VPWR TO IAC SOLENOID Key off. TP sensor disconnected. Disconnect Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between the VPWR circuit at the IAC vehicle harness connector and the battery negative post. Key off. Was voltage greater than 10.5 volts? Yes No RECONNECT IAC solenoid. For Probe: GO to C13. All Others: GO to C6. VPWR is not present. RECONNECT TP sensor. For applications with EEC-V Power Relay inside CCRM (Mustang, Taurus/Sable and Thunderbird/Cougar): GO to Pinpoint Test Step X1. All others: GO to Pinpoint Test Step B1. C6 CHECK FOR SHORTED DPFE OR EGR VALVE POSITION SENSOR Key off. TP sensor disconnected. Disconnect DPFE sensor (EGR valve position sensor for 5.0L Explorer). Key on, engine off. Again measure voltage between VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE DPFE sensor (EGR valve position sensor for 5.0L Explorer). RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. For applications with a Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor (Taurus/Sable, Crown Victoria (ex. NG)/Grand Marquis, Town Car, Explorer, 4.2L F-Series and 4.6L F-Series): GO to C7. For applications with an A/C Pressure (ACP) sensor (Escort/Tracer, Continental and Mark VIII): GO to C8. For applications with Power Steering Pressure (PSP) sensor (2.0L Contour/Mystique): GO to C10. For applications with Injection Pressure (IP) sensor (NG Crown Victoria): GO to C11. All others: GO to C15. C7 CHECK FOR SHORTED FTP SENSOR Key off. TP and DPFE sensors disconnected. Disconnect FTP sensor. Again, measure voltage between the VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE the FTP sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to C15. C8 CHECK FOR SHORTED ACP SENSOR Key off. TP and DPFE sensors disconnected. Disconnect ACP sensor. Key on, engine off. Again measure voltage between the VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE ACP sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. For Continental equipped with optional Traction Control (with TP-B sensor): GO to C9. All others: GO to C15. C9 CHECK FOR SHORTED TP-B SENSOR Key off. TP, DPFE and ACP sensors disconnected. Disconnect Throttle Position sensor B (TP-B). Key on, engine off. Again measure voltage between VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE TP-B sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to C15. C10 CHECK FOR SHORTED PSP SENSOR Key off. TP and DPFE sensors disconnected. Disconnect PSP sensor. Again, measure voltage between the VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE the PSP sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to C15. C11 CHECK FOR SHORTED IP SENSOR Key off. TP and DPFE sensors disconnected. Disconnect IP sensor. Again, measure voltage between the VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE the IP sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to C15. C13 CHECK FOR SHORTED EGRP SENSOR Key off. TP sensor disconnected. Disconnect EGR Position (EGRP) sensor. Key on, engine off. Again, measure voltage between the VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE EGRP sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to C14. C14 CHECK FOR SHORTED EGRB SENSOR Key off. TP and EGRP sensors disconnected. Disconnect EGR Boost (EGRB) sensor. Key on, engine off. Again, measure voltage between the VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Key off. Was voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE EGRB sensor. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to C15. C15 CHECK VPWR TO PCM Key off. TP sensor disconnected. All other sensors wired to VREF disconnected from previous test steps (if necessary, refer to Sensors Connected ToVREF chart at the beginning of this pinpoint test). Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between Test Pin 71 (VPWR) and Test Pin 77 (PWR GND) at the breakout box. Is voltage greater than 10.5 volts? Yes No GO to C16. SERVICE open VPWR circuit between PCM and splice to IAC solenoid. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C16 CHECK VREF CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND OR SIG RTN Key off. TP sensor disconnected. All other sensors wired to VREF disconnected. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. Disconnect Scan Tool from DLC. Measure resistance between Test Pin 90 (VREF) and Test Pins 51 or 103 (PWR GND) and 91 (SIG RTN) at the breakout box. Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? Yes No REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. SERVICE VREF short to ground. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C20 CHECK VREF CONTINUITY TO PCM Key off. Sensor where VREF check failed disconnected. Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 90 (VREF) at the breakout box and the VREF circuit at the appropriate sensor vehicle harness connector. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. SERVICE open VREF circuit. REFER to the EVTM schematic (if available), etc. and DTCs received to help pinpoint the location of the open. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C25 CAN THE ECT PID BE ACCESSED? Key on, engine off. Attempt to access the ECT PID. Can the ECT PID be accessed? Yes No GO to C26. GO to C28. C26 ARE KOEO DTCs PRESENT FOR TWO OR MORE SENSORS/SWITCHES CONNECTED TO THE SIG RTN CIRCUIT? Are KOEO DTCs present for two or more sensors/switches connected to the SIG RTN circuit (refer to the EEC-V schematic in Description and Operation)? Yes No GO to C27. SERVICE open SIG RTN circuit to the sensor where the VREF check failed. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C27 CHECK SIG RTN CIRCUIT CONTINUITY TO PCM Key off. Scan Tool disconnected. Sensor where VREF check failed disconnected. Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between the SIG RTN circuit at the appropriate sensor vehicle harness connector and Test Pin 91 (SIG RTN) at the breakout box. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No RECONNECT sensor. GO to C28. SERVICE open SIG RTN circuit. REFER to the EVTM schematic (if available), etc. and DTCs received to help pinpoint the location of the open. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C28 CHECK PCM PWR GND CIRCUITS Key off. Disconnect Scan Tool from DLC. Breakout box installed, processor disconnected. Measure resistance between the battery negative post and Test Pins 51, 77 and 103 (PWR GND) at the breakout box. Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No GO to C29. SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C29 CHECK GROUND CIRCUITS IN PCM Key off. Scan Tool disconnected. Breakout box installed. Connect PCM to breakout box. Measure resistance between Test Pin 91 (SIG RTN) and Test Pins 51, 77 and 103 (PWR GND) at the breakout box. Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No SIG RTN/PWR GND circuits are OK in the harness and PCM. VERIFY results of previous test steps. RERUN Quick Test to verify DTC/symptom. REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. C35 CHECK VREF FOR SHORT TO POWER Key off. Sensor where VREF check failed disconnected. Disconnect all other sensors connected to VREF (refer to Sensors Connected to VREF chart at beginning of this pinpoint test). Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Leave PCM disconnected. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between the VREF circuit at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector and the battery negative post. Is voltage less than 0.5 volts? Yes No REPLACE PCM. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. SERVICE VREF short to power in harness. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. A5 CHECK FEPS CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER Key off. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between Pin 13 at the data link connector and battery negative post. Is voltage greater than 9.0 volts? Yes No SERVICE short to power. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. For 3.4L Taurus SHO: GO to A17. All Others: GO to A6. A6 CHECK FOR SPARK AT THE PLUGS Disconnect the spark plug wire to any accessible cylinder. Connect spark tester between spark plug wire and engine ground. Connect Spark Plug Firing Indicator D81P-6666-A or D89P-6666-A or equivalent. Crank engine and check for spark. Reconnect the spark plug wire to the spark plug. Was spark present and consistent? Yes No GO to A7. For 3.0L Windstar: GO to Pinpoint Test Step JA1. For 2.0L Probe: GO to Pinpoint Test Step JK1. All Others: GO to Pinpoint Test Step JD1. A7 CHECK FUEL PRESSURE WARNING: BEFORE SERVICING OR REPLACING ANY COMPONENTS IN THE FUEL SYSTEM, REDUCE THE POSSIBILITY OF INJURY OR FIRE BY FOLLOWING DIRECTIONS IN PINPOINT TEST HC WARNING, CAUTION, ANDHANDLING. Key off. Release the fuel pressure. Install fuel pressure tester. Scan Tool connected. Key on, engine off. Enter Output Test Mode (refer to Diagnostic Methods) and run the fuel pump to obtain maximum fuel pressure. Is fuel pressure between 35 and 40 psi (240-280 kPa)? Yes No GO to A8. For Continental: GO to Pinpoint Test Step KB45. All Others: GO to Pinpoint Test Step HC1. A8 CHECK FUEL PRESSURE LEAKDOWN Observe WARNING, CAUTION ANDHANDLING in Pinpoint Test HC. Fuel pressure tester installed. Scan Tool connected. Key on, engine off. Enter Output Test Mode and run fuel pump to obtain maximum fuel pressure. Exit Output Test Mode, key off. Verify fuel pressure remains within 5 psi of the maximum pressure for 1 minute after turning pump off. Does fuel pressure remain within 5 psi? Yes No GO to A9. For Continental: GO to Pinpoint Test Step KB45. All Others: GO to Pinpoint Test Step HC1. A9 CHECK CONTINUITY OF IGNITION GROUND CIRCUIT Key off. Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Install EI diagnostic harness (Rotunda 007-00059 or equivalent) to ignition breakout box. Connect ICM tee to vehicle harness. Install ICM overlay. Measure resistance between Test Pin 23 at breakout box and IGN GND circuit pin at the EI diagnostic harness. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No GO to A10. SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. A10 CHECK PIP CIRCUIT CONTINUITY Key off. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. EI harness installed, ICM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 49 at breakout box and PIP circuit at the EI diagnostic harness. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No GO to A11. SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. A11 CHECK PIP CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER Key off. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. ICM disconnected. EI harness installed. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between Test Pin 49 at breakout box and battery negative post. Is voltage greater than 1.0 volts? Yes No SERVICE short to power. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to A12. A12 CHECK PIP SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR SHORTS TO GROUND Key off. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. ICM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 49 (PIP) and Test Pins 23, 51, 91 and 103 (short to ground). Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? Yes No GO to A13. SERVICE short circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. If vehicle does not start. GO to A13. A13 CHECK PIP SIGNAL Key off. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. Reconnect ICM. Measure voltage between Test Pin 49 and Test Pin 23 at breakout box. Crank engine, record reading. Is voltage between 3.0 and 7.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RERUN Quick Test. REPLACE ICM. REMOVE breakout box. RERUN Quick Test. A15 CHECK FUEL PRESSURE Connect Scan Tool to DLC. Access IPS PID (fuel pressure). Record fuel pressure. Connect fuel pressure gauge to schrader valve. Key on, engine off. Record fuel pressure. Is fuel pressure between 105 and 130 psi on the Scan Tool and fuel pressure gauge? Yes No GO to A16. GO to Fuel Systems Pinpoint Test Step HB1. A16 CHECK INJECTOR SIGNAL FROM NGV MODULE Key off. Install 60 pin breakout box to NGV module, keep NGV module connected. Connect test lamp between Test Pin 75 and ground. Crank engine. Does test lamp have a dim glow while cranking? Yes No GO to A6. RECONNECT all components. No light or continuously bright light. GO to Fuel System Pinpoint Test Step HA47. A17 CHECK PCM DRIVER TO COILS Key off. Connect PCM breakout box. Connect incandescent test lamp between B+ and to each coil driver circuit. Crank engine. Does lamp blink consistently and brightly (one blink per engine revolution)? Yes No REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to Pinpoint Test Step JD4. A20 IDENTIFY TYPE OF NO START NOTE Note: The purpose of this Test Step is to identify intermittent No Starts in order to guide the technician to the proper repairprocedure. Does the vehicle start now? Yes No Vehicle is an intermittent No Start. GO to Pinpoint Test Step Z50. GO to A21. A21 ATTEMPT TO CRANK ENGINE NOTE Note: Verify Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch is set (button pushed in). Refer to Owner Guide for location. Does engine crank? Yes No GO to A22. REFER to Starting/Engine Service Manual Group. A22 CHECK FOR VREF AT THROTTLE POSITION (TP) SENSOR Key off. Disconnect TP sensor. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between VREF circuit and SIG RTN circuit at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Is voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No RECONNECT TP sensor. GO to A23. GO to Pinpoint Test Step C1. A23 CHECK FOR SPARK AT PLUGS Disconnect the spark plug wire to any accessible cylinder. Connect spark tester between spark plug wire and engine ground. Crank engine and check for spark. Reconnect the spark plug wire to the spark plug. Was spark present and consistent? Yes No GO to A33. GO to A24. A24 CHECK FOR SPARK AT COIL Remove high tension coil wire from distributor and install spark tester. Check for spark while cranking. Reconnect high tension coil wire to distributor. Was spark present during crank? Yes No GO to Pinpoint Test Step JB12 for ICM, cap, rotor and wire diagnosis. GO to A25. A25 CHECK CONTINUITY OF IGN GND CIRCUIT Key off. Disconnect Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 104 pin connector. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Connect DI diagnostic harness to EEC breakout box, connect B- lead to negative post of battery, connect ICM tee to ICM and vehicle harness, and connect CMP tee to CMP vehicle harness. Do not connect B+ lead of DI diagnostic harness to battery. CAUTION: Do not connect PCM to EEC breakout box when it is used with DI diagnostic harness. Make sure PIP OPEN/NORMAL/SPOUT OPEN switch on DI diagnostic harness is in the NORMAL position. Use DI overlay on breakout box. Measure resistance between Test Pin 23 at breakout box and Pin 35 at the DI diagnostic harness (IGN GND circuit). Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No GO to A26. SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. A26 ISOLATION OF PROBLEM TO SPOUT CIRCUIT Reconnect CMP sensor to vehicle harness. Breakout box installed. Connect PCM to breakout box. Timing switch to "DIST" position on breakout box. Attempt to start vehicle. Does the vehicle start? Yes No Timing switch to "Computed" position on breakout box. GO to A31. GO to A27. A27 CHECK SPOUT SIGNAL Key on, engine off. Breakout box installed, PCM connected. Timing switch to "DIST" position on breakout box. Crank engine. Measure AC voltage between Test Pin 50 (SPOUT) at breakout box and battery negative post during crank. Is voltage between 3.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No EEC system OK. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. GO to Pinpoint Test Step JG1 for DI system diagnosis. PLACE timing switch to "Computed" position and GO to A28. A28 CHECK SPOUT AND PIP CIRCUITS FOR SHORT TO POWER Key off. Breakout box installed. Disconnect PCM. Disconnect ICM and CMP sensor. Key on. Measure voltage between Test Pin 50 (SPOUT) at breakout box and battery negative post. Measure voltage between Test Pin 49 (PIP) at breakout box and battery negative post. Is voltage greater than 10.5 volts? Yes No SERVICE short circuit to the START circuit or to the VPWR circuit in the harness. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to A29. A29 CHECK SPOUT AND PIP CIRCUITS FOR SHORTS TO GROUND Key off. Breakout box installed. PCM, ICM and CMP sensor disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 50 (SPOUT) and Test Pins 23, 51, 103 and 91 (short to GROUND) and 49 (short to PIP) at breakout box. Measure resistance between Test Pin 49 (PIP) and Test Pins 23, 51, 103 and 91 (short to GROUND) at breakout box. Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? Yes No GO to A30. SERVICE short circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. If vehicle does not start, GO to A30 A30 ISOLATE SHORT(S) IN PCM TO POWER AND GROUND Key off. Breakout box installed. Reconnect PCM to breakout box. ICM and CMP sensor disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 50 (SPOUT) and Test Pins 71 and 97 (short to POWER) and Test Pins 51 and 103 (short to GROUND) at breakout box. Measure resistance between Test Pin 49 (PIP) and Test Pins 71 and 97 (short to POWER) and Test Pins 51 and 103 (short to GROUND) at breakout box. Is each resistance greater than 500 ohms? Yes No RECONNECT all components. GO to A31. REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. A31 CHECK PIP SIGNAL Key off. Breakout box installed, PCM connected. Measure voltage between Test Pin 49 and Test Pin 51 or 103 at breakout box. Crank engine, record reading. Is voltage between 3.0 and 7.0 volts? Yes No REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to A32. A32 CHECK CONTINUITY OF PIP CIRCUIT Key off. Breakout box installed. Disconnect PCM. ICM and CMP sensor disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 49 at breakout box and PIP circuit at Pin 15 and Pin 34 at the DI diagnostic harness. Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No REMOVE PCM breakout box. RECONNECT all components. GO to Pinpoint Test Step JG1for DI system diagnosis. SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. A33 SPOUT SIGNAL VERIFICATION Key off. Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box and connect PCM to breakout box. Ensure timing switch is in "Computed" position on breakout box. Measure voltage between Test Pin 50 (SPOUT) and Test Pins 51 and 103 at the breakout box during crank. Is voltage between 3.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes No GO to A34. GO to A28. A34 CHECK FUEL PRESSURE WARNING: BEFORE SERVICING OR REPLACING ANY COMPONENTS IN THE FUEL SYSTEM, REDUCE THE POSSIBILITY OF INJURY OR FIRE BY FOLLOWING DIRECTIONS IN PINPOINT TEST HC WARNING, CAUTION ANDHANDLING. Key off. Release the fuel pressure. Install fuel pressure tester. Scan Tool connected. Key on, engine off. Enter Output Test Mode (refer to Diagnostic Methods) and run the fuel pump to obtain maximum fuel pressure. Is fuel pressure between 35 and 40 psi (240-280 kPa)? Yes No GO to A35. GO to Pinpoint Test Step HC1. A35 CHECK FUEL PRESSURE LEAKDOWN Observe WARNING, CAUTION andHANDLING in Pinpoint Test HC. Fuel pressure tester installed. Scan Tool connected. Key on, engine off. Enter Output Test Mode and run fuel pump to obtain maximum fuel pressure. Exit Output Test Mode, key off. Verify fuel pressure remains within 5 psi of the maximum pressure for 1 minute after turning pump off. Does fuel pressure remain within 5 psi? Yes No RETURN to Symptom Flowcharts, Symptom Index. GO to Pinpoint Test Step HC1. Intro
  19. Yo T, ignition control module DY 1077 from Rock Auto is Genuine Ford Motorcraft®⚠️ Remote Mount Black CCD "Computer Controlled Dwell" ICMFord Bronco -[/IMG]Motorcraft - DY1077 (supercedes DY679, DY667, DY645)Ford - 5U2Z-12A297-D (supercedes F1PZ-12A297-A)Wells - F139Niehoff - FF413BWD - CBE40Standard - LX-241NapaEchlin - TP29Delphi - DS10056Transpo - FM544I am fairly confident in my research, except for the non-Bronco Distributor Mount Black CCD ICM. I do not believe that the Bronco ever came with this so another Ford ICM is subsituted. What I looked for was a 6+3 Pin "Black" Ford TFI Ignition Control Module and crossed referenced it to other brands." by Seattle FSB @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/183668-ford-tfi-ignition-control-modules.html Next is to ensure Motorcraft® parts for sale are Genuine Motorcraft and not knock-off junk. On 21 May, 2019 I purchased a 96 Ford Bronco 5.0 ignition control module, Motorcraft® DY 1077 from Rock Auto.I received it 23 May and noticed the usual Motorcraft® logo wasn't impressed on it. The box looked the same as what I have purchased in past from our local Ford dealership.I e mailed Ford Global Brand Protection and asked, "is this is a genuine Mototocraft part?"Here's the reply;"After reviewing the information you provided, the part you purchased appears to be genuine. The OE current model part does not have a Motorcraft/Ford logo on it and looks like the part in your photo. Since the vehicle model year for this part is very old the supplier of the part most likely has changed. Also we have not had any prior issues with Rock Auto selling non-genuine parts."Lisa W. Ford Motor CompanyGlobal Brand Protection"What Is Global Brand Protection?The Global Brand Protection group exists to protect the consumer by ensuring high quality original equipment parts are used in your vehicle that are recommended by Ford Motor Company. Counterfeit products potentially compromise consumer expectations because they do not meet Ford Motor Company’s rigorous testing and quality control standards. Global Brand Protection focuses on:Preventing the distribution of and removing counterfeit parts from the marketplaceEnsuring that the company’s trademarks are used appropriatelyMaintaining the integrity of the sale and distribution of Genuine Ford parts..." Ford | Global Brand Protection BTW, it is the aftermarket that has screwed up the ICM year, make, model etc mess, not Ford.😎 Finally; Section 03-07A: Ignition, Distributor 1996 F-Series and Bronco with Gasoline Engines Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Ignition Control Module Removal Remove two screws retaining ignition control module (ICM) (12A297) heat sink assembly to left fender apron. Disconnect harness connector from ignition control module. Remove two screws retaining ignition control module to heat sink and remove ignition control module. Installation Coat ignition control module baseplate with silicone compound, approximately 0.0179mm (1/32-inch) thick. Use Silicone Dielectric Compound (WA-10) D7AZ-19A331-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A. Position ignition control module onto heat sink and tighten two retaining screws to 1.2-1.8 Nm (11-16 lb-in). Install ignition control module heat sink assembly on left fender apron using two retaining screws, and tighten to 9-14 Nm (80-124 lb-in). Connect wiring to ignition control module.
  20. Yo T, Right, 133 doesn't apply to our Broncos. DTC 113 Does; The sensor signal is greater then the Self Test max volt of 4.6 or higher - "...indicates that the corresponding sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum. The maximum for ECT and IAT sensors is 4.6 volts. Possible causes: Open in harness (IAT or ECT), Faulty connection, Faulty sensor, Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)..." Source: by miesk5 at FSB as does DTC 112 to 114, (ACT prior to 92 or IAT) Troubleshooting & Possible Causes; Codes 112 to 114 will set a IAT sensor code in the EEC, remove and inspect the sensor it could get contaminated by engine oil , K&N oil or dust. Clean the sensor with isopropyl alcohol. If the sensor still fails replace the unit. by me
  21. Yo T, Your mechanic may be right! ECT Sensor test; Unplug the harness connector. First, check the signal voltage at the connector with the key on, engine off. Should be approximately 5.0v. Then, check the resistance of the sensor cold. Should be between 58,750 to 40,500 ohms. Plug in the harness connector and warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Then, unplug and check the resistance of the sensor hot. Should be 3,600 to 1,840 ohms. See more info in attached docs.GL!
  22. Yo CrashCrad88, Welcome! Ignition Key CYLINDER is spinning due to Drive Gear (last tooth on drive gear isn't engaged (last notch) on columns actuator).. http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/7...t-exploded.jpg 2 Part #73 Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder 11582Part #70 Steering Column Lock Gear 3E717 or 64 Steering Column Lock Lever Upper Actuator 3E723 (with roll pin, not shown) is stripped Lock Cylinder Replacement in a 94 (from Bronco, F-Super Duty Chassis Manual); "...To install ignition cylinder use steps 1-6 on the left column...) Source: by Ken B (Kenny's 94) at https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ush-start.html ●NOTE: Accessories such as radio, starter, etc. that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch. Disconnect battery ground cable. NOTE: A new replacement ignition switch (11572) assembly will be set in the RUN position as received. Adjust the ignition switch by sliding the carrier to the RUN position. Make sure the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) is in the RUN position. The RUN position is achieved by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder approximately 90 degrees from the LOCK position. Install the ignition switch into the column actuator hole. It may be necessary to move the ignition switch back and forth slightly to align the ignition switch mounting holes with the lock cylinder housing threaded holes. Install retaining screws. Tighten to 6-8 Nm (53-71 lb-in). Connect the electrical connector to the ignition switch. Tighten lock screw to 0.8-1.3 Nm (7-11.5 lb-in). Connect battery ground cable (14301). Check ignition switch for proper function, including START and ACC positions. Also, make sure the column is in the LOCK position. ●Does ignition Key have the usual spring back from Start to Run?The ignition switch, mounted inside column's shroud is where the spring-back is provided, but the actuator(s) is often damaged. Ensure switch is securely mounted first.Ignition Actuator Removal in a 95 w/Tilt; "...Symptoms of the problem before tearing into the steering column was that I could start the truck, but not shut it off. The key was easily turned without any normal resistance/spring to it and all accessories had power with the key in any position. The rest is pretty simple though. All reverse of installation..." Source: by KC200787 @ Steering column teardown and ignition actuator replacement in a 1995 (92+ Columns) - FSB Forums ● Test the ignition system key cylinder mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinderbinding ignition switch lock cylindershroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinderburrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinderinsufficient lube on actuatorbinding ignition switch ● Was speed control, if equipped, recall work completed by a dealership? Call local dealer or register and view status @ https://owner.ford.com; or @ https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/ ... have VIN ready. "Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ml#post6530073note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96 1994 Bronco Brochure, Partial; Cover & Page 3; plus pics of EDDIE BAUER model accessories. by BigRob at 1994 Ford Bronco Bronco Accessories pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.netFree registration for some wiring diagrams (86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96), same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products | TSB's & Wiring Diagrams GL! Al
  23. Yo TJG, Let's rule out the t'stat for now until we clear up the idle issue. Try unplugging the Idle Air Control (IAC)Location pic by SteveTesting.."First let me say this little thing has many names. But they all talk about the same item under the hood. Here all the names I've had the torture of learning throughout the years:•Idle Air Bypass •Idle Air Control •Idle Speed Control •Throttle Bypass Air •Idle Bypass •Inlet Air Controller •Inlet Air Bypass •Intake Air Bypass •Intake Air Control.This is really easy to test. First as with all problems you should gather the trouble-codes from the computer. Follow the codes for testing and repair. If you get a code that points to a problem with the IAB start the vehicle and bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle without any driver input to the throttle or pedal. Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAB. If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAB is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAB for inspection.The IAB can pass and still need repair, or it can fail and not need replacing. The plunger and internal spring can get clogged with dirt and oil. This will slow down the air flow and not allow the IAB to function properly. Remove the IAB and clean it. There are 2 halves to the IAB, and you can not buy just one half, but you can take it apart to clean it. But if the internal solenoid is faulty the IAB needs to be replaced." By Ryan M. IAC Cleaning by Bobby (blue) in a 93 @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/3982/17193-2 ...This is by Nelbur; "I have spent some time this week trying to set up an air bypass around the IAC valve by cutting away some of the gasket between the IAC in and out air holes, rather than pay big bucks for Fords spacer kit. I cut away the center of the original IAC gasket from the outside of each hole to the outside of the other hole, giving about 1/2" gap for the air to pass through. I noticed an immediate improvement in the engines starting behavior, but it would still die occasionally.For most of my trucks life it has been dying when it was started hot. It would rev up and then drop the idle so low it would die unless I would catch the idle with the accelerator. It would never die when cold as the IAC would keep the idle speed up, and it never died at stop lights. Now it's worst situation seems to be when it has been shut down for a half hour or so, and restarted. I wonder if the heat soak is fooling the ETC into thinking the engine is warmer than it really is.I decided that more improvement could be had if I had a thicker gasket, because the original IAC gasket was very thin (0.018"). I had some 0.030" gasket material so I made my own with the same 1/2" cut out. This gave enough bypass to noticeably raise the idle speed and almost eliminate the dying. After maybe 50 starts in the last few days, it only died twice. After so many years of catching it with the accelerator it is darned hard to leave my foot off it. It is clear to me that by trial and error one can tune the air bypass without the need for the expensive Ford kit. I may combine the two gaskets for more bypass, but the idle is about as fast as I would want now, especially for driving in snow."Nelbur mentioned this Ford kit in..Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others; "...Hard cold starts, hesitation and stalls on initial start-up or during idle or decel may be caused by sludge in the throttle body and/or idle by-pass valve. Sludge deposits or oil film on the throttle body bore and plate or the idle air by-pass valve may cause one or more of the following conditions. Hard Cold Start, Stall On Initial Start-Up, Stall During Idle, Stall During Decel, Rough Idle, Rolling Idle, Hesitation During Acceleration. A new idle air by-pass service kit (F2PZ-9F939-A) is now available for service use to correct sludge contamination concerns of the throttle bore and plate only. It eliminates the need to clean the majority of past model throttle body applications. Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years..." Buy another Motorcraft IAC in event it needs to be replaced. Check for vacuum leaks see my test, post #11
  24. Yo dude, LTNS! STARTER RELAY GROUND; Check for continuity between relay mounting bracket and clean chassis ground. Rust, grime, paint etc interferes with relay control circuit. Here is the 1989 EVTM, Emissions & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @ https://drive.google.com/drive/mobil...?usp=drive_webSlow scrolling. Find page # of item desired in contents, then flip screen flip down like spinning a bearing (a no-no) then stopping periodically to see which page you're on. Download it for faster scrolling and to use the table of contents. See no crank TROUBLESHOOTING procedure with wiring diagram below.Battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts at rest with engine off and all lights and accessories off.Inspect the terminals for loose or corroded connections.Are battery connections including grounds to frame, intake manifold etc., clean and tight? by El Kabong @ "Cheesy clamp on end. Do not use for a long term repair. Only to get you home when nothing else is available. If you have one of these, suspect it before anything else" El Kabong @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...lies-faqs.htmlPull red/light blue wire push-on connector off of the inner fender starter relay. Relay pic in an 89 5.8 by Handy_andy_cv64 (Ed at With key in start position, should have batty voltage at red/light blue wire. If not, check for voltage at re/light blue wire on Neutral Safety Switch (also referred to as Back-Up Switch), then at ignition switch. No voltage there in the "start" mode and you have a problem in the wiring, ignition switch, or neutral safety switch. With a large screwdriver, jump the two large studs on the starter relay to see if starter cranks over.When you turn the key to "RUN/START" and there's no spring resistance feeling it usually because the actuator inside steering column is broken or ignition switch is loose.Overview; "...The ignition rod is attached the upper ignition actuator by a 3/32 x 38 roll pin ($0.12 each) and the rod needs to be straight so it travels enough to trigger the igniton switch but it's a chore to take it off as you need to remove the steering wheel and tear it down to the (Tilt or Non-Tilt) knuckle, usually down when you replace a broken upper ignition actuator. The ignition switch located on the lower part of the steering column has slots so it can be adjusted by loosening the 2 -7/16 nuts and move it up or down but a lot depends on what's wrong up top with some of the other parts, ie: ignition rod, key cylinder, lower igniton actuator and upper igniton actuator. These parts are timed so when you turn the key to RUN they all need to move forward/downward so the rod triggers the igniton switch to START the BKO..."Accessories that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch. Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinderbinding ignition switch lock cylindershroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinderburrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinderinsufficient lube on actuatorbinding ignition switchThe ignition switch can be adjusted by loosening the mounting screws, and sliding.A clunk while jumping the starter relay'(on the inner passenger fender liner) two large posts indicates bad starter relay contacts, bad wiring to starter, bad starter, corroded connections or a frozen engine.
  25. Yo 79GreenHorn, Welcome to you and your Great looking 79! Here is some info for you;Ford 1979 Bronco/F Series Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual via topsig (Ziggy) @1979 Ford Bronco Wiring Manual pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.netIt shows Electrical component location, operation, troubleshooting, with wiring and vacuum diagrams.1979 Ford Bronco Wiring Schematics, Connector Pin-outs, etc by Ranger429 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...chematics.html1979 Bronco Brochure (partial) @ http://broncohq.com/Broncosales/79/79salesinfo.html1979 Ford Bronco vs. Blazer Article by Ford via Indybronco @ 1978 Ford Bronco Bronco vs. Blazer (79) pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.netSee Technical Service Bulletins @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products and Turbochargers | TSB and Wiring Diagrams DatabaseFord Shop Manual Diagrams: 1978-1979 Full Size Shop Manuals, partial @ https://broncograveyard.com/rt-1273-...-archives.htmlMy Tablet takes hours to download, so try the first in this list as long as you have Adobe Acrobat 9 or later installed.Includes:Wiring Manuals & Diagrams Download PDFThis complete manual for the 1972-1979 Ford Bronco Includes Rear Lights DiagramMotor Manuals & Diagrams Download PDFThis complete manual for the 1972-1979 Ford Bronco Includes Air Cleaner DiagramChassis Manuals & Diagrams Download PDFThis complete manual for the 1972-1979 Ford Bronco Includes '78 Brakes Diagram, Gas Tank Setup DiagramBody Manuals & Diagrams Download PDF This complete manual for the 1972-1979 Ford Bronco Includes; Upper Body Diagram, Front Clip Diagram, heater Ducts Diagram, Tailgate Diagram, Console Diagram, Front Clip Diagram, Grill Setup Diagram, Heater Controls Diagram, Interior Trip Diagram, Rear Sheetmetal Diagram, Tiltwheel Diagram, Tire RackLet me know if the downloads are worth the effort.See Bubba's M-Block Ford V8 Workshop by Dave Resch @ Bubba's M-Block Ford V8 WorkshopPartial Chilton Manual for 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981 Bronco. Scanned by broncocity.com @ https://web.archive.org/web/20130419...6-81manual.htmDave Graham's 1979 Ford Truck Manual on CD @ https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...r+manual,10335Authorized copy of the Ford manual for all systems. Ask seller if it will run on your PC, etc. with it's operating system such as WIN10. Three Volumes!Search Google for a better deal. wobble; A wheel weight may have fell off, or a balance weight on a brake drum may have come off. bent wheel. a bent axle shaft will ruin a bearing and seal, may hear a grinding sound.
×
×
  • Create New...