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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

miesk5

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About miesk5

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    Coronado, CA

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    1996

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  1. Yo, Talk about luck!
  2. Yo, The copy paste worked out well.
  3. CONTINUOUS MEMORY DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 212: CHECK IDM CIRCUIT CONTINUITY Key off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Disconnect Ignition Control Module (ICM). Measure resistance between Test Pin 4 at the breakout box and IDM circuit at the ICM vehicle harness connector. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes No GO to NA5. SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. NA5 CHECK IDM CIRCUIT FOR SHORTS TO POWER (EXCLUDING VREF) Key off. Breakout box installed. PCM and ICM disconnected. Measure voltage between Test Pin 4 at the breakout box and battery negative post. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between Test Pin 4 and Test Pins 40 and 60 at the breakout box. Is any voltage reading greater than 10.5 volts? Yes No SERVICE short circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to NA6 . NA6 CHECK IDM CIRCUIT FOR SHORTS TO VREF AND PIP Key off. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. ICM disconnected. Ignition coil disconnected on Non-CCD vehicles (refer to Pinpoint Test Schematic ). Disconnect Scan Tool from Data Link Connector (if applicable). Note: For proper results of this test, the Scan Tool must be disconnected. Due to the circuitry of the Scan Tool and the vehicle, voltage can be fed to the VREF circuit giving a false indication of a short to power. For Shorts To VREF: Measure resistance between Test Pin 4 and Test Pin 26 at the breakout box. For Shorts To PIP circuit: Measure resistance between Test Pin 4 and Test Pin 56 at the breakout box. Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? Yes No GO to NA7 . SERVICE short circuits. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components and SCAN Tool (if applicable). RERUN Quick Test. NA7 CHECK IDM CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND Note: During this check when 4-wire HO2S is connected to the vehicle harness on DI vehicles, a short to SIG RTN (Pin 46) may be indicated in conjunction with an actual PWR GND short. Key off. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. ICM disconnected. Scan tool disconnected from Data Link connector. Ignition coil disconnected on Non-CCD vehicles (refer to Pinpoint Test Schematic ). Measure resistance between Test Pin 4 and Test Pins 20, 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box. Is each resistance above 10,000 ohms? Yes No RECONNECT Scan Tool. GO to NA8 . REMOVE breakout box. SERVICE short to ground in IDM circuit. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test. NA8 CHECK ICM Key off. Breakout box installed. Connect PCM to breakout box. Reconnect ignition coil and ICM. Connect DVOM between Test Pin 4 and Test Pin 16 at the breakout box. Start engine. Observe DVOM when voltage is allowed to stabilize. Lightly tap on ICM to simulate road shock. Wiggle ICM connector (for 3.8L AX4S, 3.8L RWD, 3.0L, 7.0L and 7.5L Trucks, wiggle ICM, GCM and CMP sensor connectors). A sudden change in voltage indicates a fault. Is a fault indicated? Yes No DISCONNECT and INSPECT connectors. If connector and terminals are good, REMOVE breakout box, RECONNECT all components and REFER to Section 8A , DI Diagnostics (2.0L Probe, Section 8B). GO to NA9 . NA9 CHECK EEC HARNESS DVOM still connected between Test Pin 4 and Test Pin 16 at the breakout box. Key on, engine running. While observing a voltage change as in NA8 , perform the following: Grasp vehicle harness closest to ICM connector (for 3.8L AX4S, 3.8L RWD, 3.0L, 7.0L and 7.5L trucks, wiggle ICM, GCM and CMP sensor connectors). Shake and bend a small section of the EEC harness while working toward the dash panel. Also wiggle, shake and bend the EEC harness from dash panel to PCM. Is a fault indicated? Yes No ISOLATE fault and SERVICE as necessary. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test. GO to NA10. NA10 CHECK PCM AND HARNESS CONNECTORS Key off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Are connectors and terminals OK? Yes No GO to NA11 . SERVICE as necessary. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. (REFER to Quick Test Appendix, Section 5A .) RERUN Quick Test. NA11 CHECK PCM FOR SHORT TO POWER Key off. Breakout box installed. PCM connected to breakout box. For vehicles with Remote Mounted ICM and Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor: Disconnect ICM and CMP. 7.0L Truck: Also disconnect Governor Control Module (GCM). All others: Disconnect ICM. Measure voltage between Test Pin 4 and chassis ground. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between Test Pin 4 and Test Pins 40 and 60 at the breakout box. Is any voltage reading greater than 10.5 volts? Yes No REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. GO to NA12 . NA12 CHECK PCM FOR SHORT TO GROUND Key off. Breakout box installed. PCM connected to breakout box. Ignition coil (Non-CCD only), ICM and CMP sensor disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 4 and Test Pins 40, 46 and 60 at breakout box. Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? Yes No REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. For further diagnosis, REFER to Section 8A , DI Diagnostics (Probe, Section 8B). REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.
  4. Yo RR, Dr Al-be-Sure Suggest a you take an aspirin and see me in the morning. Until then, I recommend going through this list by Doc Ford in his 1996 Workshop Manual on how I stopped worrying about my old Bronco and fixed it". See http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm for more info. Vehicle overloaded or unevenly loaded. CORRECT as required.Improper (mismatched) tires and wheels. INSTALL correct tire and wheel combination. Improper tire pressure. ADJUST air pressure in tires.Loose steering gear mounting.ADJUST to 73-89 Nm (54-66 lb-ft).Front and rear suspension components loose, worn or exhibit damaged condition. TIGHTEN or REPLACE as necessary. "First step is to have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth (with the truck running) while you watch the steering shaft, pitman arm, drag link, tie rod, and tie rod ends. All of these parts should move with one another, so if you see one part moving before the next does, you've got an issue." by BigUgly88EBCheck all the tie rod ends for endplay. With the wheel-rocking trick, start at the pitman arm, there should be no motion between the arm and the drag link, or the drag link to the tie rod, or the tire rod to the steering arms. Replace and align as required..." Source: by Carl J Raise the vehicle and place safety stands under the I-beam axle beneath the spring.Have an assistant grasp the lower edge of the tire and move the wheel in and out.While the wheel is being moved, observe the lower spindle arm and the lower part of the axle jaw. A 0.794mm (1/32-inch) or greater movement between the lower portion of the I-beam and the lower spindle arm indicates that the front suspension lower arm ball joint must be replaced.To check the front suspension upper ball joints, grasp the upper edge of the tire and move the wheel in and out. A 0.794mm (1/32-inch) or greater movement between the upper spindle arm and the upper portion of the I-beam indicates that the front suspension upper ball joint must be replaced. By FordLoose, worn or damaged steering sector shaft arm drag link. TIGHTEN or REPLACE as necessary. Loose wheel lug nuts. TIGHTEN to specifications.Improperly adjusted front wheel bearing. ADJUST to specification.Steering column intermediate shaft coupling fractured. REPLACE as required.Incorrect toe setting. SET to specifications. .Improperly adjusted steering gear.Pre-load Adjustment, All Bronco & Ford, mid-70s to 00; "...1. Disconnect the pitman arm from the sector shaft using a Pitman Arm Puller (Tool T64P-3590-F). 2. Disconnect the fluid return line at the reservoir and cap the reservoir return line nipple to retain the fluid in the reservoir. 3. Place the end of the return line in a suitable container and turn the steering wheel from stop-to-stop several times to discharge the fluid from the gear. Discard the fluid. 4. Turn the steering wheel to the right stop, then back left 45 degrees. 5. Attach an inch-pound torque wrench to the steering wheel nut and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft slowly approximately one-eighth turn (45) toward center from the initial 45 degree position. Note this first value. 6. Turn the steering gear back to center and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft back and forth across the center position ( 90). Compare the center value to the first value, using the following criteria: * Vehicles with less than 5,000 miles (8046 Km): If total meshload over mechanical center is less than 15 in-lb (1.7 Nm) or greater than 24 in-lb (2.7 Nm), RESET to first value PLUS 11-15 in-lb (1.2-1.7 Nm). * Vehicles with more than 5,000 miles (8046 Km), or with new sector shaft: If meshload over mechanical center is NOT 7 in-lb (0.8 Nm) GREATER than the first value, RESET to 10-14 in-lb (1.13-1.6 Nm) GREATER than first value. . If reset is required, loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the sector shaft adjuster screw until the reading is the specified value greater than the torque at 45 degrees from the stop. Hold the sector shaft screw in place, and tighten the locknut. 8. Re-check torque readings and replace the pitman arm and steering wheel hub cover. 9. Connect the fluid return line to the reservoir and fill the reservoir to specification with the specified fluid. Check belt tension & adjust if necessary. Do not pry against the reservoir to obtain proper belt load. Pressure will deform the reservoir and cause it to leak...." Steering column misaligned.Steering column components loose or exhibit excessive play. REPAIR as required.Tips;Scrubbed tires indicate the wheels have incorrect toe. Parts to check are the idler arm, strut rod bushings, tie-rod ends, pitman arm and center link. Cupped tires are symptoms of incorrect camber. Parts that could be worn and ready to replace are the ball joint, coil springs and control-arm bushings. Cupped tires may also be a symptom of frame fatigue. Uneven tire wear suggests that the alignment is loose or parts are worn. Check for loose wheel bearings, loose ball joints and worn bushings. Make sure the wheels are balanced, and inspect the shock absorbers. Variable tire wear indicates the tires are improperly inflated. Overinflated tires have excessive wear in the center; underinflated tires have excessive outer wear. Make sure tires are inflated to the proper pressure. Regularly inspecting the three interrelated systems — braking, steering and suspension — and replacing worn parts help assure safe, trouble-free driving. ..." by MOOG® Have to go and see an 88 owner with a leaky rear... edit: I meant his 88 has a rear leak
  5. Yo Griff, Fir more towing info, see 96 Bronco Owner's Guide, Maintenance Schedules & Parts and Accessories by Ford @ https://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/owner-manuals Note, 96 is same as most earlier years especially 92-95, except for:92 through 95 uses the Electronic Engine Control, version Four (EEC-IV, aka On Board Diagnostics (OBD-I)) engine management computer.96 uses the OBD-II (EEC-V) engine management computer;4WABS (93-96);RABS (87-92);Air Bag (94-96);3 Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensors in 96 Federal emissions and one more in 96 California Emissions3 Screw Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.);R134a in 94-96;2-piece Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS) used on 5/95 to 96 Broncos & F Series 1/2-ton 4WD;Ford added Crankshaft Position Sensor, aka misfire detection sensor and the tone ring in 96. The misfire sensor is an electromagnetic inductance coil similar in operation to a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. A four-point stator, or pulse ring, located behind the crankshaft damper generates an electrical impulse in the sensor at each 90 degrees of rotation. The powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) monitors the sensor pulses and flags any misfire events. When a specified number of misfires occur within a certain time frame, the powertrain control module will alert the driver to the condition by turning on the CEL.Most 92-95 Speed Density (SD) EFI uses a Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP), a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) & an Air Intake Temperature Sender (ACT) that gives the engine certain volumetric efficiencies over it's RPM range. SD EFI also uses what is called bank fire injection. 4 injectors are fired at one time on each side of the engine (only 2 wires for firing injectors from EEC-IV).Mass Air Electronic Fuel Injection (MAF), aka Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection (SEFI) in all 94 5.0,most 95 5.8 are SD, 95 5.0 & 95 5.8 California models are MAF and all 96s are MAF. Need to verify other Bronco years/engines. Mass Air directly reads the mass of air (or number of molecules of air). By doing this, it can detect the changes in the volume of air, in addition to it's pressure & temperature. Mass air has one separate wire for each injector & fires them twice for every power stroke of the engine. This makes the injector timing more accurate & will help emissions along with power.96 5.8 do not have the Air Injection (AIR), Secondary Air Injection; Pump (Smog Pump), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoids; Diverter, Check & Bypass Valves, Cross-Over Tube, etc. But 96 5.0 does have the system.Only 95 5.8L California models & all 96 have the Differential Pressure Feedback (DPFE) Sensor instead of EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor.The 96, Vapor Management Valve (VMV) replaces the canister purge valve (CanP valve) used in EEC IV. But the 96 manual still shows CanP valve probably because it was a late addition to the 96 production line.The Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) in a 93 Bronco is located on the driver side frame rail, but in 94 through 96 it is on the master cylinder.Still researching other differences
  6. Yo, You most likely have the C6 transmission. What is the current issue with your Bronco?
  7. Yo Skitter, Keyed? Our 96, bought new was keyed on driver side too onky 3 months after we purchased it. Some have no proper upbringing.
  8. Yo Skitter, Too bad about the Power... I use Motorcraft brake parts since we purchased our 96 New. No issues except for me defunct dealer's decision to let their Dodge dealership install the rotors h7bs incorrevtly. The Motorcraft parts are actually supplied by MAT Holdings, parent to ther manufacturing entity, GRI Engineering for brake pads, shoes, shims, back plates, discs, calipers. MAT Auto also "...supplies ride control products including shocks, struts, and suspension systems for the North American commercial vehicle market..." "...MAT Auto Group maintains multiple technical centers of excellence around the globe to support product development with OEM customers such as General Motors, Ford, Mercedes Benz, BMW, Audi, Jaguar, Land Rover, Volkswagen, Nissan, TRW, Continental Teves, Bosch, WABCO, and Knorr-Bremse among others. In addition MAT Auto Group supplies high performance OEM products to auto racing companies AP Racing, Brembo, Hi Spec Motorsport, and Maxx Autosport..." Read THE TRUTH ABOUT DEALERSHIP VS. AFTERMARKET PARTS By Andy J @ https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/advice/cars-101/the-truth-about-dealership-vs-aftermarket-parts I know that Ford and other auto manufacturers require different and more stringent specs than say, a national chain such as the zone.
  9. Yo BB, The F series boards are said to be longer . I never heard of shortening them, but believe it can be done. Broncograveyard does sell 1980-1997 Ford Bronco & Ford Truck Running Board Support Bars @ 1980-1997 Ford Bronco & Ford Truck Running Board Support Bars https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-1997-Ford-Bronco-Ford-Truck-Running-Board-Support-Bars/productinfo/35510/ The bars tend to rust.Have you tried Craigslist? There's almost always people parting them out on there. For YARD SEARCH on-line, I use; https://www.hollanderparts.com A yard that uses Hollander Interchange can search other yards and have it shipped. "...For over eighty years, Hollander has been making the best tool for fast, interchangeable part matches. The new Edition Hollander Interchange contains more interchangeable options than ever before. The Hollander Interchange provides auto recyclers and auto collectors, rebuilders, and others with the easiest and most comprehensive solution for identifying interchangeable auto parts..." See their yard Directory @: https://www.hollanderparts.com/SellerDirectory Can select certain parts Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles If a specific part, such as the tailgate torsion bar isn't listed, search again for the next higher assembly, such as in this instance, the tailgate. ¤ or http://www.car-parts.com/ Can select certain parts Can search by year range, such as 92 through 96 & has best item condition descriptions such as "COVER BAD LEATHER PWR BKT GRY" Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles incl. interior/dash, back seat, front & rear and engine bay ¤ http://www.picknpull.com This is a Company name w/yard locations in various states Can NOT Select certain parts Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles ¤ http://row52.com/Search Can NOT Select certain parts Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles AND Want a Part? It's Easy... 1. You create a Parts Wanted Listing. 2. Parts Pullers respond with offers. 3. You pick the best one. A Parts Puller gets the parts you need. ¤ For obsolete parts by Ford long version pn: http://www.partsvoice.com/ http://www.rearcounter.com http://www.greensalescompany.com https://nospartsltd.com & For new discounted Ford parts: https://consumerlink.oeconnection.com/91554453363118850 (suggested by JScatt!) ¤ Stop by a local Ford dealer parts department and ask. They will look it up in the Interchange Guide data base. The Ford bean counters deleted the public Interchange Guide and Buyer's Guide a few years ago to save their $ & make it more difficult for us to maintain our Broncos. As an example, here is Ford Motorcraft's buyers guide info for a ""Motorcraft basic pn": "12A646 is a relay.EEC power, mostly found under the hood next to the fuel pump relay on EFI vehicles. . RELAY, ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (ASSEMB DY-865 [Universal Relay] 2 Bbl.; E1VB-12A646AA,E3AF-12A646B1A,E3UF-12A6461A1,A2A, B1A,,B2A,E3TF-12A646A1A,A2A,B1A,B2A and from the Buyers Guide: Part No.: DY-865 Manufacturer: MOTORCRAFT Part Type: ELEC ENG CONT ASSY RELAY Total No. of Vehicles: 275 FORD (202) 1983-1994 AEROSTAR (9) 1986-1992 1992 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U 1991 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U 1990 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U 1989 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U 1988 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U 1987 L4-140ci 2.3L F/I Vin A 1987 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U 1986 L4-140ci 2.3L F/I Vin A 1986 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U BRONCO (18) 1983-1991 1991 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1991 V8-351ci 5.8L F/I Vin H 1990 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1990 V8-351ci 5.8L F/I Vin H 1989 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1989 V8-351ci 5.8L F/I Vin H 1988 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1988 V8-351ci 5.8L F/I Vin H 1987 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1987 V8-351ci 5.8L 4 BBL Vin H 1986 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1986 V8-351ci 5.8L 4 BBL Vin H 1985 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1984 V8-302ci 5.0L 2 BBL Vin F 1984 V8-351ci 5.8L 2 BBL Vin G 1984 V8-351ci 5.8L 4 BBL Vin H 1983 V8-302ci 5.0L 2 BBL Vin F 1983 V8-351ci 5.8L 2 BBL Vin G ETC." ¤ Pull-A-Part SEARCH INTERCHANGEABLE PARTS INVENTORY, @ https://www.pullapart.com/inventory/...-parts/search/ Handy_andy_cv64 01:08 PM 11-01-2014 Times three on the truck info. That always helps. El Kabong 02:07 PM 11-01-2014 $350 seems awful high. If you are patient you should find one for less. Around here they seem to run about $50-$100 when they show up on CL. Did your Bronco originally have an external spare? Part of the reason for the bumper spare carriers is that there is internal bracing for the carrier that isn't there on trucks that didn't originally have the external carrier. The bumper versions also carry more weight without body damage. Mine was an internal carrier originally. Here are the details about the addition of the external carrier: Quote: Originally Posted by El Kabong 22- My Bronco doesn't have an exterior tire carrier. Can I add one? Yes, but... Broncos that came with a stock external tire carrier have additional supports behind the sheet metal that trucks with internal carriers don't have. If you don't add interior support, the carrier will rip the sheet metal. Some have had trouble with large spares damaging the tailgate even with the stock supports. The strongest solution seems to be a rear bumper with a tire carrier built on it. Several of us have added the stock type spare carrier, with various results. If you add a stock external carrier, you'll need to add support inside both the tailgate & the fender. I added an external carrier to my 90. It has been ok so far. I carry a 33" BFG m/t on an aluminum rim, so it is not as heavy as some spares. I wheel it, but I'm not crazy with it. No jumping. I can see some flex in the quarter panel when the spare is all the way open. I am always careful when it's opened. It seems solid & tight when it's closed. It is somewhat misaligned in that the rubber block at the bottom hits before the latch. I think it keeps it tighter & may prevent damage. I also kept the interior spare carrier. It's pretty much out of the way with no spare it, gives me something to lash to, & makes it easy to carry 2 spares on the trail (Some guy named Tom told me early on I should always have 2 spares ). For the tailgate, you probably want to use the stock support for inside the tailgate. It's just way too easy to install the stock brace to even consider making one. It has to tie into the structure inside of the tailgate to distribute the load. It can be unbolted from one truck & bolted into the next. If you add a carrier to a Bronco that never had one, use that support. Here's a pic of the tailgate support (Pic borrowed from Dustball, the last I heard he's still selling this part). The top is at the left. You can see the 3 holes for the latch. The other holes mount to the structure inside of the tailgate. Quote: Originally Posted by Dustball There is also a support inside the fender, but it can't be removed from a good truck without a lot of work/damage. It's better to get that part from a truck that's being parted out, or to make a new one. If you use the stock fender support, you may have to cut it to fit it into place. My internal fender supports are made from 3/16 plate, bent to fit. They are each bent twice with 2 flats that contact the fender at the bolt holes, & a center portion that doesn't contact around the curve. The edges are ground round, to try to keep from them punching through. They don't connect to each other or to the existing internal bracing like the stock brace does, but it would be stronger if they did. I may still modify them to do so. It's easier to make the supports to fit the shape & hole pattern of the carrier hinge brackets. The hinges are the same shape as the fender, & it's much simpler to work with the hinges on the bench than trying to bend the steel to match the truck. Here is a sideways view of the stock support inside the rear fender from Mickaila's Bronco build. Quote: Originally Posted by mickaila Here is an overall view, again, ITS UP SIDE DOWN, as you can see the top portion of the panel (where the soft top sits) on the ground presently: And a shot through the taillight opening of one of my homebuilt braces (It's getting rusty in there, it should have been painted. Even inside of the quarter panel in California ). You can see how it isn't formed to the fender at the curve, but takes a straight line across. Be aware that the design of the latch changed (I think the break is between 89 & 90, but I'm not sure). The older ones have a long release lever & sort of a hook strike, while the newer ones have a short release handle & a latch mechanism similar to the doors. Make sure that the strike you buy matches your carrier. My experience is with a 90. I have heard that the hinge brackets are a different shape to match the rear fenders of 78-79s, 80-86s, & 87-96s, so be sure to use the matching hinge brackets for your fenders. I have also heard that the carriers themselves will swap between 78-79s, 80-86s & 87-96s if you use the correct hinge brackets, but don't know that personally. They also went from 2 holes mounting the latch to 3 at some point. The 2 & 3 hole parts may work with each other, but you might have to drill a 3rd hole & add a nut behind. My internal tailgate brace had only 2 holes. They matched 2 of the strike holes, & I drilled the 3rd. Here's an earlier strike (89 & before?): Somewhere there's a pic of the later strike (90 & later?) When I find it I'll add it. III%er 12:02 AM 11-04-2014 I am just missing the carrier and I have to drill and tap or easy out one hole. When I repair my tailgate I will see what I can do to beef up the support on the tailgate. It looks like the damage on the top of the gate is from having spare tire plus years of rain getting in there. I keep looking for the carrier and hopefully I find one, but I don't need it till after Christmas, because that's when I am doing the body work. dlogeston 03:49 PM 11-06-2014 I like jeffs bronco grave yard. But I find a lot of good stuff on ebay. GetBent4x4 07:29 AM 11-09-2014 row52.com by Taboola Sponsored Links You May Like 2019 Audis Worth Considering, and WhyKelley Blue Book 20 Historical Photos They Dare Not Show You In SchoolSoGoodly Common Signs of Psoriatic ArthritisPsoriatic Arthritis | Search Ads Michigan Brothers Unearth 220 Year Old TreasureOmgCheckItOut Beautiful Cross Breed Dogs That Will Leave You Wondering Why People Still Buy Dogs From BreedersLivestly 20 gardening hacks that will make your neighbours jealousTip Tricks The Wild Secrets Buyers Learned About Their Homes After the Deal Had ClosedRealtor.com 5 Luxury Cars So Amazing You Won't Believe They Cost Under $50kStuff Answered Reply Up Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc. 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  10. Yo 93, If your 4WABS system is not working, You can tap into the 4WABS Control Module Connector Jumper 14 (CKT 530, LG/Y)to 21 (CKT 519 (LG/BK) Jumper & 39 (CKT 491 (O/LB)to 22 (CKT 523, R/PK)..." Source: by Turbo Ghost Or if 4WABS Is Working, open the harness to Connector and splice into those four wires about 4 inches from Connector.
  11. Yo fyre, I believe leak may be from a freeze plug. 3 freeze plugs behind the exhaust manifold on both sides.
  12. Yo RR, YW! Url Tag Img Thumb DoorGsktFiller.JPG | Hits: 1773 | Size: 75.14 KB | Posted on: 12/19/12 | Link to this image To rejuvinate collapsed door gaskets, insert foam caulk backer rod. Larger foam will fit, but this is sufficient, and fairly easy to install. I was able to push about 5 feet directly in, and then use needle-nose pliers through the vent holes to pull the rest through. A long wire fed through beforehand would have made pulling the rod in even easier. Any leftovers can be used in the doors: Immediately after this, the doors should be fully aligned to prevent further damage to the seals. http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?6884-Door-Alignment Finally, apply silicone spray lube &/or teflon dry lube to the gaskets to keep them soft, clean, and silent doorfrontfill.jpg | Hits: 1546 | Posted on: 1/29/13 | View original size (392.18 KB) This scrap of caulk-saver rod from the door gasket filler will prevent small pebbles & parts from jamming in the narrow gap, causing dents or rust. The bottom is open to allow water to drain rearward. It can also be used above the rear wheel arch reinforcements, and inside the door seals
  13. Yo R-R, Stuff happens! Been there, done stuff too!😎 Problem with the "new look" here, our signatures don't show our Bronco or F Series years, nor engine, etc, so; I figure you need this; Two ECTs, one for the TEMPERATURE GAUGE and other for the EEC IV (ECT). ECT = engine cooling temp sensor which threads into the "octagonal" tree shaped tube that's threaded into the lower intake manifold and has a small TB cooling tube and hose AND another metal tube/hose threaded into the side which goes to the heater core inlet IIRC.This "octagonal" tree shaped tube is available at Rock Auto for: 1993 FORD BRONCO 5.87 V8 : for exampleHeat & Air Conditioning : Heater Hose / Pipe Suggest buying Motorcraft, all day, every day!MOTORCRAFT KT81 Click for more information about this part {#E8TZ18B402C} HVAC Heater PipeTube to manifold$46.79 btw, this is a priced drop of $2.00 since June 2016!!! Same for 93 5.0. BTW, Ford advises to apply pipe sealant or Teflon® tape to the threads of the new temperature gauge sender.
  14. Yo George, Post the codes here. True, always something in a 23 yo Bronco!😎
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