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66-96 Ford Bronco Forum - BroncoZone.com

miesk5

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About miesk5

  • Rank
    Al

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  • Website URL
    http://schwimserver5.com/?index=1128

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NJ Pinelands; near a neat overpass

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?
    1996

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Yo, Think someone needed a lug nut?
  2. Yo Robert, Good to see you here again! Razorback hasn't logged in here since Dec, but may have seen your reply. Be well! Al
  3. Engine Acc. Brackets

    Yo, 96 5.0 front view http://s837.photobucket.com/user/chrisrudeau/media/96 bronco/IMG_5020_zpsicnz7fwl.jpg.html http://s837.photobucket.com/user/chrisrudeau/media/96 bronco/IMG_5020_zpsicnz7fwl.jpg.html by Njbronco74
  4. Engine Acc. Brackets

    Yo, TS 90150 wrote; "When I swapped my 90 from 302 to 351 the brackets are the same. Just more holes. The 351 uses the widest while the 302 uses the narrower ones. This is on a serpentine pulley system," he has a 90 F150, but I'm pretty sure it is same as Bronco.
  5. Engine Acc. Brackets

    Yo, 1996 5.0 Source: by David C (Zak the Bronc, Big Green and Ugly, Dangling Dave) - Bronco Air York OBA installation, Saginaw installation
  6. Engine Acc. Brackets

    Yo pal, Here are pics of a 130 amp (3G) Installation in an 93 Bronco 5.8 by Bobby showing location. http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/35149-93-bronco-95-amp-130-amp-conversion.html My 96 5.0 has alternator in same location. 93 5.0 Alternator pic by kingpinfarr (My Lil Mule) ... same as in my 96 5.0 I checked Engine Conversion Kits for Bronco & Ford Trucks (sales catalog w/pics & descriptions) at http://www.landlproducts.comSource: by L&L landlproducts.com butnothing for your year, but give them a call. 1994 5.0Source: by rooster454 (Hellga) - engine bay pic, passenger side w/fender, bumper, grille & head light trim removed in a 95 5.0 @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/19133/71488-2 1994 5.0 Saginaw Power steering pump brackets: Source: by pfun41 1995 5.0 Source: by exfrog1985 - engine bay pic from front 1995 5.0 Source: by just_a_warning (Gronco) - engine bay pics hI http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/933953/thumbnail/100_2304.jpg[/img] See more pics at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/24908/79955-2 Same as my 96 5.0 Will look for bracket pics soon
  7. Yo, As a guess, PCV valve is on passenger side.
  8. Yo,

    Hope all is well my friend!!!!

  9. Yo, Manual Hub OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS: ONLY use fingers to turn dials. DO NOT USE PLIERS. Set the hublock dials to FREEand transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive. To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to LOCK and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low. Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks. Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel rive because it can cause drive train damage. Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between FREE and LOCK or it will damage the hublocks. Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage. Driving with the hublocks in Free ™ and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage. To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..." Source: by Warn® Many owners when driving on in snow/icesurfaces and then getting on dry surfaces usually keep hubs locked, then shift to and from 4x4 high. Some drive train wear can occur, but I haven't anything happen since buying our 96 new and driving in a snow state. "...The t-case disconnects the front driveshaft from the transmission, and the hubs disconnect the axleshafts from the wheels. The driveshaft is ALWAYS connected to the diff & axleshafts. Depending on how tight your diff is, both axleshafts MAY turn when you turn the d'shaft while BOTH hubs are unlocked, but at least one of them has to no matter what. If the d-shaft won't turn with both front wheels off the ground (or the hub locks removed), then the t-case is still in 4. If either axleshaft won't turn with its hub UNlocked AND the t-case in 2 or N, then that hub is stuck locked. I suspect you'll find some carmelized grease, and some surface rust on the lock rings, and probably a spring or 2 heavily rusted, to the point that they're ruined. But that's just a guess. Take both hub locks OUT of the hubs, and then roll the truck a little. You don't need to remove the tires, or even jack the front end up since the locks don't bear ANY weight. If the d'shaft still turns, the problem is in your t-case....."by Steve
  10. 53 ways to get great gas mileage

    Yo, Project M.P.G. in a Centurion 460; miesk5 Note, Results are Comparable to Tests in other Ford Engines Source: by performanceunlimited.com http://performanceunlimited.com/projectmpg/ I have always factored in any cost to improve MPG in the overall $ "savings". Free: reducing weight (of the Bronco and toold, accessories and ... passengers; driver's get a pass) proper tire pressure ensure that brakes are not dragging driving style/ light foot check for trouble codes Cost Items: alignment COLD air intake - insulate air intake from grille area to throttle body.AND BY Crown Auto Parts Inc.; "Under inflated tires Increase rolling resistance 1-2 mpg; Dirty air filter Causes excessively rich fuel/air mixture 2.0 mpg; Worn spark plugs Cause inefficient combustion, wasted fuel 2.0 mpg; Worn O2 sensor Unable to detect and adjust air/fuel mixture 3 mpg; Dirty or substandard engine oil Increases internal engine friction 0.4 mpg; Loose gas cap Allows fuel to evaporate 2.0 mpg; Potential loss in fuel economy if all of the above were neglected 11.4 mpg..
  11. Yo, Thanks for the update!
  12. hard top weatherstripping

    Yo Dog, Instead of the thumbnails, go directly to https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Weatherstripping-Bronco/products/196/ "Apply dry (Teflon) lube to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass; dry lube prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; take off the TG access cover and spray slides & tracks isWith PTFE in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy" by JKossaridesFord recommends, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and window weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain door window alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip. Use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B to lubricate door and tailgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China.
  13. hard top weatherstripping

    Yo; No adhesive needed.except for that one piece as described below; Weather Seal Location Diagram; "...There's 1 weatherstrip across the back of the cab that slips onto a lip of steel, and a reinforced rubber trim that covers another lip, but it doesn't seal anything. Then there's a foam rubber gasket glued under each side of the shell, terminating in a large foam block at the tailgate. So that's a total of 4 pieces, but only 3 are seals. Only the weatherstrip on the cab is marked in the 1st diagram, but all are shown in cross-section. ..." by Steve at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12740-2 See itkall, good stuff! Verify all hot links and prices below: Look @ Bronco Graveyard & the 92-96 WS Kits Jeff's Terminology is; 34386a 4 piece Inner and Outer weather strips 87-96 Ford Bronco Set of 4 window weatherstrip belts with clipsleft inner right inner left outer right outer ============ 34394 2 Upper weather strip runs 1980-96 Bronco ================== 36021 Tailgate to Bed Seal Seals the tailgate to the bed, mounts on the body of the Bronco =========== -36020 Rear Glass Run The seal that fits into rear of top that seals the tailgate glass to the top ============= 36030 1/4 Panel to Top Seal, Right (Passenger Side) 80-96 Ford Bronco Price: $29.00 =================== 36032 -1/4 Panel to Top Seal, Left (Drivers Side) 80-96 Ford Bronco same image as Right Side ====================== 34544A Weatherstrip End, Right & left (sold seperately) this is da right side (passenger) ======== 34543 Inner & Outer Tailgate Weather Strips (see Steve83's Info Link below) This is the inner and outer belts on the tailgate that the window goes between. Clips are made onto the belts. ============= 36016 Front Top Weatherstrip 80-96 Ford Bronco This is the seal that attaches to the front edge of the fiberglass top and seals against the cab. $20.00 ============= 36018 - Ridged Top Weatherstrip, 80-96 This is the wire imbedded seal that presses on the rear of the cab area for the top to seal against ========= 36038 Top Window Gasket, Left Drivers Side 80-96 This is a brand new aftermarket window gasket for the fiberglass top Side windows $60.00 36039 i right side == Also A Google for Ford PN's is good too; such as; E1TZ-98422A20 1978-1996 Ford Bronco Tail Gate Inner Glass Run Channels US $24.40 Buy It Now Comes as a pair Replaces one of many dealer part numbers including: E1TZ 98422A20 A , E1TZ98422A20A These channels may require minor trimming. They may need to be narrowed where they meet the window sweeps as they go down in to the tailgate. This listing has ended. The seller has relisted this item or one like this === For mostly 78-79 Broncos by bwautoparts.com REMOVABLE ROOF PANEL SEALS Diagrams, 78-96 w/Ford part numbers; D8TZ-9851322-A Removable Roof Front Seal On fiberglass roof; D8TZ-98513C22-PR Removable Roof Side Panel Seals on 78-79; D8TZ-9854732-A Front Roof Rear Seal on metal roof on 78-79; E1TZ-98422A20-A Back Window Glass Lower Side Run, RH or LH on 78-96 Roof Rail Seal ATTACHES TO THE REAR OF THE METAL CAB 78-79 Part #: D8TZ-9854732-A $40.95 ----- Source: by bwautoparts.com via web.archive.org http://web.archive.org/web/200603171...at2003.062.htm ================= Camper Top Location Diagram #1; "...There's 1 weatherstrip across the back of the cab that slips onto a lip of steel, and a reinforced rubber trim that covers another lip, but it doesn't seal anything. Then there's a foam rubber gasket glued under each side of the shell, terminating in a large foam block at the tailgate. So that's a total of 4 pieces, but only 3 are seals. Only the weatherstrip on the cab is marked in the 1st diagram, but all are shown in cross-section..." http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/282490 by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Camper Top Location Diagram #2 http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/282491 by Steve83 Weather Seal, Outer, Rear Glass Run Seal Removal (broncograveyard pn 34543 for 80-96); "...Use a screwdriver to gently pry the OUTER weatherbelt up just enough to pop the cllps loose. I've pulled the far end out to show the clips, but it should be left straight until ALL the clips are loose, then lifted out without bending. The inner seal is removed the same way, but use a rag between the screwdriver and the paint..." Source: Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net =============== Weather Seal, Camper Top Weather Seal, Glass Run Info & Ford pn; "...Some aftermarket versions are simply a continuous strip - they lack the formed corner pieces at each end..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net ========= Weather Seal, Threshhold in 78-96 Diagram; "...the body style shown is '78-79 (taillight & strike mounting) and the actual threshhold is NOT shown. But the seal & retainer are the same for '78-96. The 56928-S55 screws are phillips head with large integral washer ~1/4" long with self-drilling tip.The 55933-S55 screws are countersunk oval phillips head ~1/4" long with normal tip..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net ======= Weather Seal Parts Break-Out Diagram; "...The outside weatherbelt that wipes the glass is D8TZ-9841610-A and cost $24 in 1996. The inner (9841676 above) is F6TZ-9842072-AA and was $27. Use silicone spray lube on the weatherbelts & glass runs. The best grease for the slides & tracks is this: Teflon grease..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
  14. Running Cold

    Yo, YW! As our friend Skitter302 suggested about the core; Heater Core; Plugged Heater Core: Check to ensure the engine coolant is at the proper level, then start the engine and let it run until it is warmed to operating temperature. Turn on the heater and feel the inlet and outlet heater water hoses (18472) to the heater core (18476). If the inlet heater water hose is hot and outlet heater water hose is cooler, the heater core may be plugged. NOTE: Make sure that an appropriate container is used to collect any coolant that is lost during the heater core bleed procedure. To bleed air from heater core, remove the hose at the outlet connection of the heater core (hose leading to the water pump). Allow any trapped air to flow out. When a continuous flow of coolant is obtained, connect the hose to the core. Do not overtighten heater hose clamps. Pressure Test; mieskk5 note, most shops just run flusher solution through heater core by placing temp at hot, to floor and fan on med. Some just force a small garden hose nozzle into one heater hose to flush out through the other hose. Drain the cooling system. Disconnect the heater water hoses from the heater core. If constant tension clamps are used, be sure they are properly positioned. Install a short piece of heater water hose (approximately 100mm [4 inches] long) onto each tube of the heater core. Fill the heater core and heater water hoses with water and install Plug BT-7422-B and Adapter BT-7422-A from Radiator/Heater Core Pressure Tester 014-R1052 or equivalent in the ends of the heater water hoses. Secure the heater water hoses to the heater core, plug and adapter with clamps. Item Part Number Description 1 — Bleed Valve (Part of 014-R1052) 2 014-R1052 Radiator/Heater Core Pressure Tester 3 7422 Adapter B 4 7422 Plug 5 8287 Hose Clamp 6 18C266 Heater Hose (4 Inches Long) Attach Radiator/Heater Core Pressure Tester 014-R1052 or equivalent to the adapter. Close the bleed valve at the base of the gauge and pump 207 kPa (30 psi) of air pressure into the heater core. Observe the pressure gauge for a minimum of three minutes. The pressure should not drop. If the pressure does not drop, no leaks are indicated. If the pressure drops, check the connections at the core for leaks. If the heater water hoses do not leak, remove the heater core from the vehicle and test the heater core as described in this section. Refer to Section 12-02 for removal and installation procedures for the heater core.
  15. Running Cold

    Yo, It was 4 deg F here this morning ... with blizzard yesterday. if I started our Bronco now, I probably wouldn't have heat for first 2 miles while at 25 mph, and maybe longer if driving into the wind. Try driving at 25 mph and see if you get heat like I would.
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