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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

miesk5

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About miesk5

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    Coronado, CA

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?
    1996

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  1. Yo Skitter, Too bad about the Power... I use Motorcraft brake parts since we purchased our 96 New. No issues except for me defunct dealer's decision to let their Dodge dealership install the rotors h7bs incorrevtly. The Motorcraft parts are actually supplied by MAT Holdings, parent to ther manufacturing entity, GRI Engineering for brake pads, shoes, shims, back plates, discs, calipers. MAT Auto also "...supplies ride control products including shocks, struts, and suspension systems for the North American commercial vehicle market..." "...MAT Auto Group maintains multiple technical centers of excellence around the globe to support product development with OEM customers such as General Motors, Ford, Mercedes Benz, BMW, Audi, Jaguar, Land Rover, Volkswagen, Nissan, TRW, Continental Teves, Bosch, WABCO, and Knorr-Bremse among others. In addition MAT Auto Group supplies high performance OEM products to auto racing companies AP Racing, Brembo, Hi Spec Motorsport, and Maxx Autosport..." Read THE TRUTH ABOUT DEALERSHIP VS. AFTERMARKET PARTS By Andy J @ https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/advice/cars-101/the-truth-about-dealership-vs-aftermarket-parts I know that Ford and other auto manufacturers require different and more stringent specs than say, a national chain such as the zone.
  2. Yo BB, The F series boards are said to be longer . I never heard of shortening them, but believe it can be done. Broncograveyard does sell 1980-1997 Ford Bronco & Ford Truck Running Board Support Bars @ 1980-1997 Ford Bronco & Ford Truck Running Board Support Bars https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-1997-Ford-Bronco-Ford-Truck-Running-Board-Support-Bars/productinfo/35510/ The bars tend to rust.Have you tried Craigslist? There's almost always people parting them out on there. For YARD SEARCH on-line, I use; https://www.hollanderparts.com A yard that uses Hollander Interchange can search other yards and have it shipped. "...For over eighty years, Hollander has been making the best tool for fast, interchangeable part matches. The new Edition Hollander Interchange contains more interchangeable options than ever before. The Hollander Interchange provides auto recyclers and auto collectors, rebuilders, and others with the easiest and most comprehensive solution for identifying interchangeable auto parts..." See their yard Directory @: https://www.hollanderparts.com/SellerDirectory Can select certain parts Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles If a specific part, such as the tailgate torsion bar isn't listed, search again for the next higher assembly, such as in this instance, the tailgate. ¤ or http://www.car-parts.com/ Can select certain parts Can search by year range, such as 92 through 96 & has best item condition descriptions such as "COVER BAD LEATHER PWR BKT GRY" Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles incl. interior/dash, back seat, front & rear and engine bay ¤ http://www.picknpull.com This is a Company name w/yard locations in various states Can NOT Select certain parts Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles ¤ http://row52.com/Search Can NOT Select certain parts Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles AND Want a Part? It's Easy... 1. You create a Parts Wanted Listing. 2. Parts Pullers respond with offers. 3. You pick the best one. A Parts Puller gets the parts you need. ¤ For obsolete parts by Ford long version pn: http://www.partsvoice.com/ http://www.rearcounter.com http://www.greensalescompany.com https://nospartsltd.com & For new discounted Ford parts: https://consumerlink.oeconnection.com/91554453363118850 (suggested by JScatt!) ¤ Stop by a local Ford dealer parts department and ask. They will look it up in the Interchange Guide data base. The Ford bean counters deleted the public Interchange Guide and Buyer's Guide a few years ago to save their $ & make it more difficult for us to maintain our Broncos. As an example, here is Ford Motorcraft's buyers guide info for a ""Motorcraft basic pn": "12A646 is a relay.EEC power, mostly found under the hood next to the fuel pump relay on EFI vehicles. . RELAY, ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (ASSEMB DY-865 [Universal Relay] 2 Bbl.; E1VB-12A646AA,E3AF-12A646B1A,E3UF-12A6461A1,A2A, B1A,,B2A,E3TF-12A646A1A,A2A,B1A,B2A and from the Buyers Guide: Part No.: DY-865 Manufacturer: MOTORCRAFT Part Type: ELEC ENG CONT ASSY RELAY Total No. of Vehicles: 275 FORD (202) 1983-1994 AEROSTAR (9) 1986-1992 1992 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U 1991 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U 1990 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U 1989 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U 1988 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U 1987 L4-140ci 2.3L F/I Vin A 1987 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U 1986 L4-140ci 2.3L F/I Vin A 1986 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U BRONCO (18) 1983-1991 1991 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1991 V8-351ci 5.8L F/I Vin H 1990 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1990 V8-351ci 5.8L F/I Vin H 1989 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1989 V8-351ci 5.8L F/I Vin H 1988 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1988 V8-351ci 5.8L F/I Vin H 1987 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1987 V8-351ci 5.8L 4 BBL Vin H 1986 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1986 V8-351ci 5.8L 4 BBL Vin H 1985 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N 1984 V8-302ci 5.0L 2 BBL Vin F 1984 V8-351ci 5.8L 2 BBL Vin G 1984 V8-351ci 5.8L 4 BBL Vin H 1983 V8-302ci 5.0L 2 BBL Vin F 1983 V8-351ci 5.8L 2 BBL Vin G ETC." ¤ Pull-A-Part SEARCH INTERCHANGEABLE PARTS INVENTORY, @ https://www.pullapart.com/inventory/...-parts/search/ Handy_andy_cv64 01:08 PM 11-01-2014 Times three on the truck info. That always helps. El Kabong 02:07 PM 11-01-2014 $350 seems awful high. If you are patient you should find one for less. Around here they seem to run about $50-$100 when they show up on CL. Did your Bronco originally have an external spare? Part of the reason for the bumper spare carriers is that there is internal bracing for the carrier that isn't there on trucks that didn't originally have the external carrier. The bumper versions also carry more weight without body damage. Mine was an internal carrier originally. Here are the details about the addition of the external carrier: Quote: Originally Posted by El Kabong 22- My Bronco doesn't have an exterior tire carrier. Can I add one? Yes, but... Broncos that came with a stock external tire carrier have additional supports behind the sheet metal that trucks with internal carriers don't have. If you don't add interior support, the carrier will rip the sheet metal. Some have had trouble with large spares damaging the tailgate even with the stock supports. The strongest solution seems to be a rear bumper with a tire carrier built on it. Several of us have added the stock type spare carrier, with various results. If you add a stock external carrier, you'll need to add support inside both the tailgate & the fender. I added an external carrier to my 90. It has been ok so far. I carry a 33" BFG m/t on an aluminum rim, so it is not as heavy as some spares. I wheel it, but I'm not crazy with it. No jumping. I can see some flex in the quarter panel when the spare is all the way open. I am always careful when it's opened. It seems solid & tight when it's closed. It is somewhat misaligned in that the rubber block at the bottom hits before the latch. I think it keeps it tighter & may prevent damage. I also kept the interior spare carrier. It's pretty much out of the way with no spare it, gives me something to lash to, & makes it easy to carry 2 spares on the trail (Some guy named Tom told me early on I should always have 2 spares ). For the tailgate, you probably want to use the stock support for inside the tailgate. It's just way too easy to install the stock brace to even consider making one. It has to tie into the structure inside of the tailgate to distribute the load. It can be unbolted from one truck & bolted into the next. If you add a carrier to a Bronco that never had one, use that support. Here's a pic of the tailgate support (Pic borrowed from Dustball, the last I heard he's still selling this part). The top is at the left. You can see the 3 holes for the latch. The other holes mount to the structure inside of the tailgate. Quote: Originally Posted by Dustball There is also a support inside the fender, but it can't be removed from a good truck without a lot of work/damage. It's better to get that part from a truck that's being parted out, or to make a new one. If you use the stock fender support, you may have to cut it to fit it into place. My internal fender supports are made from 3/16 plate, bent to fit. They are each bent twice with 2 flats that contact the fender at the bolt holes, & a center portion that doesn't contact around the curve. The edges are ground round, to try to keep from them punching through. They don't connect to each other or to the existing internal bracing like the stock brace does, but it would be stronger if they did. I may still modify them to do so. It's easier to make the supports to fit the shape & hole pattern of the carrier hinge brackets. The hinges are the same shape as the fender, & it's much simpler to work with the hinges on the bench than trying to bend the steel to match the truck. Here is a sideways view of the stock support inside the rear fender from Mickaila's Bronco build. Quote: Originally Posted by mickaila Here is an overall view, again, ITS UP SIDE DOWN, as you can see the top portion of the panel (where the soft top sits) on the ground presently: And a shot through the taillight opening of one of my homebuilt braces (It's getting rusty in there, it should have been painted. Even inside of the quarter panel in California ). You can see how it isn't formed to the fender at the curve, but takes a straight line across. Be aware that the design of the latch changed (I think the break is between 89 & 90, but I'm not sure). The older ones have a long release lever & sort of a hook strike, while the newer ones have a short release handle & a latch mechanism similar to the doors. Make sure that the strike you buy matches your carrier. My experience is with a 90. I have heard that the hinge brackets are a different shape to match the rear fenders of 78-79s, 80-86s, & 87-96s, so be sure to use the matching hinge brackets for your fenders. I have also heard that the carriers themselves will swap between 78-79s, 80-86s & 87-96s if you use the correct hinge brackets, but don't know that personally. They also went from 2 holes mounting the latch to 3 at some point. The 2 & 3 hole parts may work with each other, but you might have to drill a 3rd hole & add a nut behind. My internal tailgate brace had only 2 holes. They matched 2 of the strike holes, & I drilled the 3rd. Here's an earlier strike (89 & before?): Somewhere there's a pic of the later strike (90 & later?) When I find it I'll add it. III%er 12:02 AM 11-04-2014 I am just missing the carrier and I have to drill and tap or easy out one hole. When I repair my tailgate I will see what I can do to beef up the support on the tailgate. It looks like the damage on the top of the gate is from having spare tire plus years of rain getting in there. I keep looking for the carrier and hopefully I find one, but I don't need it till after Christmas, because that's when I am doing the body work. dlogeston 03:49 PM 11-06-2014 I like jeffs bronco grave yard. But I find a lot of good stuff on ebay. GetBent4x4 07:29 AM 11-09-2014 row52.com by Taboola Sponsored Links You May Like 2019 Audis Worth Considering, and WhyKelley Blue Book 20 Historical Photos They Dare Not Show You In SchoolSoGoodly Common Signs of Psoriatic ArthritisPsoriatic Arthritis | Search Ads Michigan Brothers Unearth 220 Year Old TreasureOmgCheckItOut Beautiful Cross Breed Dogs That Will Leave You Wondering Why People Still Buy Dogs From BreedersLivestly 20 gardening hacks that will make your neighbours jealousTip Tricks The Wild Secrets Buyers Learned About Their Homes After the Deal Had ClosedRealtor.com 5 Luxury Cars So Amazing You Won't Believe They Cost Under $50kStuff Answered Reply Up Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc. 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  3. Yo 93, If your 4WABS system is not working, You can tap into the 4WABS Control Module Connector Jumper 14 (CKT 530, LG/Y)to 21 (CKT 519 (LG/BK) Jumper & 39 (CKT 491 (O/LB)to 22 (CKT 523, R/PK)..." Source: by Turbo Ghost Or if 4WABS Is Working, open the harness to Connector and splice into those four wires about 4 inches from Connector.
  4. Yo fyre, I believe leak may be from a freeze plug. 3 freeze plugs behind the exhaust manifold on both sides.
  5. Yo RR, YW! Url Tag Img Thumb DoorGsktFiller.JPG | Hits: 1773 | Size: 75.14 KB | Posted on: 12/19/12 | Link to this image To rejuvinate collapsed door gaskets, insert foam caulk backer rod. Larger foam will fit, but this is sufficient, and fairly easy to install. I was able to push about 5 feet directly in, and then use needle-nose pliers through the vent holes to pull the rest through. A long wire fed through beforehand would have made pulling the rod in even easier. Any leftovers can be used in the doors: Immediately after this, the doors should be fully aligned to prevent further damage to the seals. http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?6884-Door-Alignment Finally, apply silicone spray lube &/or teflon dry lube to the gaskets to keep them soft, clean, and silent doorfrontfill.jpg | Hits: 1546 | Posted on: 1/29/13 | View original size (392.18 KB) This scrap of caulk-saver rod from the door gasket filler will prevent small pebbles & parts from jamming in the narrow gap, causing dents or rust. The bottom is open to allow water to drain rearward. It can also be used above the rear wheel arch reinforcements, and inside the door seals
  6. Yo R-R, Stuff happens! Been there, done stuff too!😎 Problem with the "new look" here, our signatures don't show our Bronco or F Series years, nor engine, etc, so; I figure you need this; Two ECTs, one for the TEMPERATURE GAUGE and other for the EEC IV (ECT). ECT = engine cooling temp sensor which threads into the "octagonal" tree shaped tube that's threaded into the lower intake manifold and has a small TB cooling tube and hose AND another metal tube/hose threaded into the side which goes to the heater core inlet IIRC.This "octagonal" tree shaped tube is available at Rock Auto for: 1993 FORD BRONCO 5.87 V8 : for exampleHeat & Air Conditioning : Heater Hose / Pipe Suggest buying Motorcraft, all day, every day!MOTORCRAFT KT81 Click for more information about this part {#E8TZ18B402C} HVAC Heater PipeTube to manifold$46.79 btw, this is a priced drop of $2.00 since June 2016!!! Same for 93 5.0. BTW, Ford advises to apply pipe sealant or Teflon® tape to the threads of the new temperature gauge sender.
  7. Yo George, Post the codes here. True, always something in a 23 yo Bronco!😎
  8. Yo J, EDIT: STARTER DOESN'T CRANK ENGINE ? OR; STARTER CRANKS ENGINE OVER, BUT ENGINE DOESN'T RUN? ¤□¤ THESE TESTS SEEM OVERWHELMING, however this is what a Ford mechanic would do. So at least you know the procedures. Do what you can for now, starting with easiest. ■ P0401 - EGR Flow Insufficient Detected. The EGR system is monitored during steady state driving conditions while the EGR is commanded on. The test fails when the signal from the DPF EGR sensor indicates that EGR flow is less than the desired minimum. Vacuum supply EGR valve stuck closed EGR valve leaks vacuum EGR flow path restricted EGRVR circuit shorted to PWR VREF open to D.P.F. EGR sensor DPFE sensor downstream hose off or plugged EVR circuit open to PCM VPWR open to EVR solenoid D.P.F. EGR sensor hoses both off D.P.F. EGR sensor hoses reversed Damaged EGR orifice tube Damaged EGRVR solenoid Damaged PCM Source: by miesk5 at FSB DPFE Testing in a 96 5.0; "...my 96 5.0 DPFE Sensor tested @ 15.0 VDC during KOEO test between REF & Ground. TOMCO says it should read 0.45 +/- 0.25 volts for this original Aluminum sensor . See attachment When pulling REF hose off, fine particles fell out of DPFE. DPFE Sensor was bad according to Ref voltage and particles... by miesk5 Differential Pressure Feedback (DPFE) TSB 97-22-1 for 95-97 F Series, Aerostar, Econoline, Windstar (Bronco not Listed); miesk5 Note; test info & diagrams/depictions are correct for Bronco as well Source: by Ford (http://www.stangnet.com/images/stori...s/97-22-01.pdf) Testing & Vacuum/Voltage Parameters & pics on both older Aluminum & Newer Plastic Version; Source: by tomco-inc.com http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt36.pdf ¤¤¤ Causes of Engine Misfire Trouble Codes P0300 P0301 P0302 P0303 P0304 P0305Misfire codes don't tell you why your engine is misfiring, only that one or more cylinders are not running properly. The OBD II system tracks misfires by detecting subtle changes in the speed of the crankshaft via the crankshaft position sensor while the engine is running. A misfire causes a slight loss of speed in the rotating crankshaft, which the OBD II system logs as a misfire. A few misfires are normal, but if the engine experiences an excessive number of misfires within a given period of time, it will set one or more misfire codes. The last digit in the code indicates the number of the cylinder that is misfiring. Cylinder specific misfire codes (such as P0301, P0302, etc.) tell you that a specific cylinder is misfiring, but the code does not tell you why. The cause might be ignition-related (worn or fouled spark plug, bad plug wire or coil-on-plug ignition coil), fuel-related (dead or dirty fuel injector; or injector connector dislodged or fouled), or compression-related (bent or burned valve or leaky head gasket).All of these possibilities must be investigated to rule out the cause of the misfire. Faulty spark plugs or wires check each wire for connection integrity first. Ensure that routing is ok;Look at that VECI Label on top of radiator; look at the spk plug wire routing diagram carefully.Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order TSB 94-04-10 for 87-93 5.0 & 94-96 5.0 & all 5.8 - enginemiss, spark knock, buck/jerk, surge and other driveability concerns Source: by Ford via Steve83http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/sup...y/media/470416excerpts; The firing order for 1994 -1996 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On these vehicles the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire. To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap. □■□ DTCs P0172, P0174, P0171 AND P0175: FUEL SYSTEM AT THE CORRECTED ADAPTIVE LIMITSDiagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0171 bank (1) (cylinder #1) and DTC P0174 bank (2) indicate the fuel/air ratio is too lean. miesk5 NOTE; FORD'S naming convention is that bank one is the same bank as where the number one cylinder is; sensor one and two are in the Y before the cat & sensor 3 is after the cat. SourceThe fuel adaptive system is at the rich correction limit. DTC P0172 bank (1) and DTC P0175 bank (2) indicate the fuel/air ratio is too rich. The fuel adaptive system is at the lean correction limit.DTCs HO2S Reference list:HO2S-11 = DTCs P0171 and P0172DTCs P0174 and P0175Possible causes:Fuel systemExcessive fuel pressure.Leaking fuel injector(s).Leaking fuel pressure regulator. Pull vacuum hose off, any fuel or aroma, replace FPR.Low fuel pressure.Contaminated injector(s)Induction system:Air leaks after the MAF. check tubes from MAF TO TB Vacuum leaks. See my Vacuum leak test @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...odes-idle.html ... post #11. Restricted air inlet from atop radiator support through air filter through throttle body. Check air intake for leaks, obstructions and damage.Fuel purge system. Check vapor cannister, hoses to Vapor Management Valve (VMV) & TB.Improperly seated dip stick.EGR, Leaking gasket. Stuck open EGR valve. Leaking diaphragm.Base engine:Oil overfill.Cam timing.Cylinder compression.Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S's.Verify integrity of the PCV system. Check vacuum hose & valve itself.....Are there any of the above concerns?Yes SERVICE as necessary. RERUN Quick Test.No, GO to Pinpoint Test Step DC25. If MAF reading is within specification, return to Pinpoint Test Step H42. Check MAF for contamination; see below) *** Over oiled K&N Air filters can cause this ***H42 INITIATE KOER SELF-TESTKey off.Scan Tool connected.Disconnect fuel vapor hose from TB and plug fitting at TB.Start engine and run at 2000 rpm for 1 minute and return to idle.Enter Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.Are HO2S DTCs P1127, P1128 P1129, P1131, P1132, P1151 or P1152 present?Yes If DTC(s) P1127, P1128, or P1129 are present, GO to Section 5A, Powertrain Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Charts and SERVICE those DTCs first. If DTC(s) P0131 and/or P0151 are present in Continuous Memory, SERVICE DTC P0131 or P0151 in the order they are displayed. GO to H27.All others, GO to H43.No For DTCs P1130, P1150, P0171, P0174, P0172 and P0175: GO to H43.If DTC(s) P1132 and/or P1152 are no longer present, RECONNECT fuel vapor line. GO to HW43.All others: The fault that produced the DTC is an intermittent. GO to Pinpoint Test Step Z1 with the following data: HO2S-11, 21 PIDs and list of Possible Causes.H43 CHECK FUEL PRESSUREWARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS PRESSURIZED WHEN THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING. TO PREVENT INJURY OR FIRE, USE CAUTION WHEN WORKING ON THE FUEL SYSTEM.Key off.Install fuel pressure gauge.Verify vacuum source to fuel pressure regulator.If engine will start:Start engine and idle. Record fuel pressure.Increase engine speed to 2500 rpm and maintain for one minute. Record fuel pressure.No Start:Cycle key on and off several times. Record fuel pressure.Is the fuel pressure between 30-45 psi (210-310 kPa)?Yes Fuel system is capable of required fuel pressure. GO to H44.No Fuel pressure out of specification. GO to Pinpoint Test HC.H44 CHECK SYSTEM ABILITY TO HOLD FUEL PRESSUREFuel pressure gauge installed.Cycle key on and off several times.Verify there are no external leaks (repair as necessary).Does the fuel pressure remain within 5 psi of the highest reading after one minute?Yes For DTCs P1130, P1150, P0171, P0172, P0174 and P0175: GO to H45.For No Starts: GO to H46.For fuel control DTCs displayed with misfire DTCs: GO to H47.All other DTCs: GO to H51.No No Excessive pressure loss. GO to Pinpoint Test Step HC3.H45 CHECK SYSTEM ABILITY TO HOLD FUEL PRESSURE WITH KEY ONFuel pressure gauge installed.Cycle key on then off several times.Turn key on and engine off, monitor fuel pressure gauge.Does the fuel pressure remain within 5 psi of the highest reading after 10 seconds?Yes For DTCs P1130, P1150, P0171 and P0174: GO to H47.No For DTCs P0172 and P0175: GO to H49.H46 CHECK ABILITY OF INJECTOR(S) TO DELIVER FUELPressure gauge installed.Cycle key several times.Locate a6nd disconnect the Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) Switch.Monitor pressure gauge while cranking the engine for at least five seconds.Was there a pressure drop greater than 5 psi (34 kPa) while cranking the engine?Yes The EEC-V System is not the cause of the no start. REMOVE the fuel pressure gauge. RECONNECT the IFS switch. REFER to Symptom Flowcharts, Symptom Flowcharts, for further diagnosis.No, REMOVE fuel pressure gauge. RECONNECT IFS switch. GO to H47.H47 CHECK RESISTANCE OF INJECTOR(S) AND HARNESSKey off.Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.Note: This erases Continuous Memory DTCs.Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.Note: If misfire DTCs are displayed with the Fuel Control DTCs, use the misfire DTCs to determine the injector circuits requiring testing.Measure resistance between suspect injector Test Pin(s) and Test Pin 71 or 97 at the breakout box using the chart below.Cyl# Test Pin# Cyl# Test Pin#1 75 5 732 101 6 993 74 7 724 100 8 98Is the resistance between 11.0-18.0 ohms?Yes Fuel injector and harness resistance is OK. GO to H50. No GO to H48.H48 CHECK CONTINUITY OF FUEL INJECTOR HARNESSKey off.Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.Disconnect injector harness connector at the suspect injector.Measure the resistance between Test Pin 71 or 97 at the breakout box and the VPWR pin at the injector harness connector.Measure resistance between the Injector Test Pin(s) at the breakout box and the Injector Signal Pin at the injector connector. (Refer to chart in H47 for Injector Pin location.)JIs each resistance less than 5.0 ohms?Yes GO to H49.No SERVICE open harness circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and fuel injectors. RERUN Quick Test.H49 CHECK INJECTOR HARNESS CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER OR GROUNDKey off.Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.Suspect fuel injector harness disconnected.Measure resistance between the injector Test Pin(s) and Test Pin 71 or 97, 24, 76 and 103 at the breakout box (refer to chart in H47).Measure the resistance between the Injector Test Pin(s) at the breakout box and chassis ground.Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?Yes GO to H50.No SERVICE short circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and all fuel injector(s). RERUN Quick Test.H50 CHECK INJECTOR DRIVER SIGNALRequires standard 12 volt test lamp.Key off.Breakout box installed.Connect PCM to breakout box.Connect test lamp between Test Pin 71 or 97 and each injector Test Pin (refer to chart in H47).Crank or start engine.Note: Properly operating system will show a dim glow at idle on the test lamp.Does test lamp have a dim glow while cranking or running engine?Yes REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM. GO to H51.No, No light/Continuous bright light. REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RERUN Quick Test.H51 FLOW TEST FUEL INJECTOR(S)Flow test fuel injector(s).Use the Rotunda Injector Tester 164-R3750, SBDS Injector Tester or equivalent to flow test the injectors according to the instructions for the injector tester.Is the leakage and flow within specification?Yes DTCs P0171, P0172, P0174 and P0175: The fault that produced the DTC is an intermittent. GO to Pinpoint Test Step Z1 with the following data: SF1, SF2, LFT1, LFT2 PIDs and list of possible causes.No REPLACE injector. RERUN Quick Test.Z1 INTERMITTENT TEST PROCEDURENote: All Intermittent Procedures are used in conjunction with the Intermittent Symptom Charts and the Typical Diagnostic Reference Values at the end of the pinpoint.If directed here from another pinpoint test, refer to PIDs, circuits or components that were recommended or else refer to the Symptom Chart at the end of the pinpoint for the proper selection.Based on the Intermittent Prioritization Chart, choose an Intermittent Diagnostic Procedure below:Input Test - This test is used on sensing devices such as temperature, position, oxygen, etc.Output Test - This test is used on output devices such as relays, coils, solenoids, etc.Water Soak Test - This test is used on both input and output devices. Especially useful on spark plug wires, relays and hall effect sensors.Road Test - This test is used on both input and output devices. Four modes of engine operation are monitored for intermittent.Note: The electronic ignition (EI) system tester is not capable of diagnosing coil on plug (COP) systems.Ignition Test - This test is for non coil on plug only and used to diagnose the ignition system using the Electronic Ignition (EI) System Tester. Coil on plug applications will use the input, output, water soak and road test only. Select the next priority from the intermittent prioritization chart.Have you chosen an Intermittent Diagnostic Test procedure?Yes for the Input Test: GO Z10.For Output Test: GO to Z20.For Water Soak Test: GO to Z30.For Road Test: GO to Z40.For Ignition Test: GO to Z50.No To diagnose other driveability symptoms, GO to Symptom Flowcharts, Symptom Flowcharts.Z10 INTERMITTENT KOEO INPUT WIGGLE PROCEDUREWARNING: USE CAUTION WHEN PERFORMING ANY OF THE TEST STEPS. ALWAYS BE AWARE OF HANDS, CLOTHING OR TOOLS NEAR COOLING FANS, ENGINE DRIVE BELTS OR HOT SURFACES.Key off.Connect Scan Tool to DLC.Access PIDs based on information from the pinpoint test or Intermittent Symptom Charts at the end of this pinpoint test.Go to the area of the suspected wiring or component fault.Key on, engine off.If input is a switch-type component, turn on manually.Lightly tap on component while viewing PID values. Wiggle and pull each component wire (Signal, Signal Return and VREF, if applicable) at the component.Look for abrupt changes in PID values. Compare the actual PID values to the KOEO Diagnostic Reference PID Values at the end of this pinpoint test.Are any PID values out of range or suddenly drop out and back into range?Yes Possible wiring or component problem. CHECK each wire for corrosion, bent or loose terminals and poor wire terminal crimps. SERVICE as necessary. Otherwise, REPLACE component. VERIFY repair. If unable to verify, REINSTALL original part and GO to Z11.No GO to Z11 for PCM wiring checkWARNING: USE CAUTION WHEN PERFORMING ANY OF THE TEST STEPS. ALWAYS BE AWARE OF HANDS, CLOTHING OR TOOLS NEAR COOLING FANS, ENGINE DRIVE BELTS OR HOT SURFACES.Key off.Connect Scan Tool to DLC.Access PIDs based on information from the pinpoint test or Intermittent Symptom Charts at the end of this pinpoint test.Go to the area of the suspected wiring or component fault.Key on, engine off.If input is a switch-type component, turn on manually.Lightly tap on component while viewing PID values. Wiggle and pull each component wire (Signal, Signal Return and VREF, if applicable) at the component.Look for abrupt changes in PID values. Compare the actual PID values to the KOEO Diagnostic Reference PID Values at the end of this pinpoint test.Are any PID values out of range or suddenly drop out and back into range?Yes Possible wiring or component problem. CHECK each wire for corrosion, bent or loose terminals and poor wire terminal crimps. SERVICE as necessary. Otherwise, REPLACE component. VERIFY repair. If unable to verify, REINSTALL original part andNo GO to Z11.Z11 INTERMITTENT KOEO INPUT WIGGLE PROCEDUREContinue to monitor the information from the previous step.Go to the area of the suspected wiring or component fault.Turn ignition key to the ON position.Wiggle and pull each sensor wire (Signal, Signal Return and VREF, if applicable) from the component back to the PCM connector.Look for abrupt changes in PID values. Compare the actual values to the KOEO Diagnostic Reference PID Values.Are any PID values out of range or suddenly drop out and back into range?Yes Possible wiring or component problem. CHECK each wire for corrosion, bent or loose terminals and poor wire terminal crimps. SERVICE as necessary. Otherwise, if the value dropped out while checking the PCM harness connector and there is no evidence of a fault, REPLACE PCM. If unable to verify, REINSTALL original PCM. Return to Z1 and choose another procedure to follow. Unable to verify fault.No GO to Z12 KOER Wiggle Test.Z12 INTERMITTENT KOER INPUT WIGGLE PROCEDUREWARNING: USE CAUTION WHEN PERFORMING ANY OF THE TEST STEPS. ALWAYS BE AWARE OF HANDS, CLOTHING OR TOOLS NEAR COOLING FANS, ENGINE DRIVE BELTS OR HOT SURFACES.Key off.Access PIDs based on information from the pinpoint test or from the Intermittent Symptom Chart.Go to the area of the suspected wiring or component fault.Key on, engine running.Lightly tap on component while viewing PID values. Also wiggle and pull each component wire (Signal, Signal Return and VREF, if applicable) at the component.Look for abrupt changes in PID values. Compare the actual values to the HOT IDLE Diagnostic Reference PID Values.Are any PID values out of range or suddenly drop out and back into range?Yes Possible wiring or component problem. CHECK each wire for corrosion, bent or loose terminals and poor wire terminal crimps. SERVICE as necessary. Otherwise, REPLACE component. VERIFY repair. If unable to verify, REINSTALL original part, and GO to Z13.No GO to Z13 for PCM wiring check.Z13 INTERMITTENT KOER INPUT WIGGLE PROCEDUREContinue to monitor the information from the previous step.Go to the area of the suspected wiring or component fault.Key on, engine running.Wiggle and pull each component wire (Signal, Signal Return and VREF, if applicable) from the component back to the PCM connector.Look for abrupt changes in PID values. Compare the actual values to the HOT IDLE Diagnostic Reference PID Values.Are any PID values out of range or suddenly drop out and back into range?Yes Possible wiring or component problem. CHECK each wire for corrosion, bent or loose terminals and poor wire terminal crimps. SERVICE as necessary. Otherwise if the value dropped out while checking the PCM harness connector and there is no evidence of a wiring fault, REPLACE PCM. If unable to verify repair, REINSTALL original PCM and RETURN to Z1 and choose another procedure to follow.No Unable to verify fault. RETURN to Z1 and choose another procedure to follow.....
  9. Yo, I checked other year Bronco and F 150 fan clutch specs and they too don't list the 5.8 either. Local dealer service manager may be able to help. However our local Ford dealers managers just want to rack up bogus "needed repairs". Did find one Bronco Technical Service Bulletin (TSB). A TSB is used to correct errors in manufacturing, changes to components, etc.TSBs frequently (but not always) address a recurring problem and include illustrated instructions for repair, a list of the parts needed, the warranty status and the labor charge. Here it is, but no 5.9 Specs TSB 92-15-14 Fan Clutch DiagnosisPublication Date: JULY 15, 1992LIGHT TRUCK: 1987-92 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES1988-92 F SUPER DUTYISSUE: A comprehensive diagnostic procedure has been developed for determining if the engine cooling fan clutch is functioning properly. A fan clutch that is not functioning properly may cause engine cooling concerns and/or vibration.ACTION: Use the following diagnostic procedure to determine if the fan clutch is functioning properly. A fan clutch that is not functioning properly should be replaced.CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MODIFY THE BI-METALLIC COIL ON THE FACE OF THE FAN CLUTCH.DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURENOTE: PROCEED ONLY AFTER COMPLETING THE ENGINE COOLING DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE IN SECTION 03-03 AND THE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TENSION PROCEDURE IN SECTION 03-05 OF THE APPROPRIATE SERVICE MANUAL.1. Turn off the air conditioner, heater-A/C fan and radio.2. Check for viscous drag...a. Before starting the engine, rotate the fan and clutch assembly by hand. It should have some viscous drag, but it should turn smoothly during the full 360� of rotation.b. Replace the fan clutch if it does not turn smoothly or does not turn at all. Refer to the Dealer Master Parts Catalog for correct parts usage. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual, Section 03-05, for service details.c. Replace the fan if there are only cracks.d. If this is not the concern, go to Step 3.3. Check for lack of viscous drag...a. If the fan clutch spins with no viscous drag when it is cold, and it has not been run for an hour or more, it should be replaced. Refer to the Dealer Master Parts Catalog for correct parts usage. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual, Section 03-05, for service details.b. If this is not the concern, go to Step 4.4. Check for excessive fan clutch bearing clearance (cold fan clutch)...a. Hold the tip of the fan blade between the thumb and forefinger.b. Lightly pull toward the radiator, then push toward the engine. c. Repeat the motion several times.* The total rocking movement at the end of the fan blade should be 2/10" (5.1mm) or less when no more than eight ounces of force is applied.* A force greater than eight ounces may deflect the fan blade with erroneous results.d. Replace the fan clutch if more than 2/10" (5.1mm) of movement is observed. Refer to the Dealer Master Parts Catalog for correct parts usage. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual, Section 03-05, for service details.e. If this is not the concern, go to Step 5.5. Install a temporary engine tachometer if the vehicle is not equipped with a tachometer.NOTE: DURING THE FOLLOWING TESTS, BE SURE TO MONITOR THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE BY THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE IN THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. SHUT OFF THE ENGINE IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THE MAXIMUM RECOMMENDED LIMIT FOR THE ENGINE OR IF COOLANT IS DISCHARGED OUTSIDE THE SYSTEM. THE TESTS CAN BE RESUMED USING THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURES AFTER THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE DROPS TO A NORMAL OPERATING LEVEL.NOTE: IF THE HOOD IS LEFT OPEN, THE FAN NOISE MAY BE EASIER TO HEAR.WARNING: DO NOT STAND IN LINE WITH THE FAN.6. Start the engine.7. Check for fan disengagement and be aware of the following operational characteristics.* The fan clutch may be engaged when the engine is first started. This will be apparent from the noise level of the fan which has a distinctive roar.* The fan clutch engagement is due to the viscous silicone fluid draining back and filling the gap between input and output components.* Running the engine at a constant speed of about 2000 rpm should pump the fluid back to its reservoir, disengaging the fan clutch after no more than five minutes.* As the fan speed declines, the noise will drop off to a level inaudible to most observers.a. Continuing the test, If the fan clutch does not reengage after five more minutes at 2000 rpm, the fan clutch should be replaced. Refer to the Dealer Master Parts Catalog for correct parts usage. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual, Section 03-05, for service details.b. Repeat the test procedure after fan clutch replacement to confirm the fix and to assure customer satisfaction.c. If this is not the concern, go to Step 8.8. Stop the engine.Cut and install a piece of cardboard large enough to cover the front of the radiator with a six inch diameter hole in line with the fan clutch.If it is not possible to install the cardboard directly against the radiator, attach it to the A/C condenser.9. Start the engine.a. With the gas engine at 2700 to 3000 rpm or diesel engine at 2100 to 2300 rpm, the vehicle temperature gauge will rise steadily as the engine warms and then appear to level off for a short time when the thermostat opens.b. Make note of the temperature gauge position when the thermostat opens. The engine coolant temperature will continue to rise until the fan clutch engages.10. Check for fan engagement...a. Continue to observe the coolant temperature gauge. As the fan clutch engages, the fan noise will continue to increase and then level off at full engagement. The fan clutch may cycle off-and-on a few times during the initial engagement.b. If the fan clutch does not engage before the maximum indicated safe operating engine coolant temperature is reached, it should be replaced. Refer to the Dealer Master Parts Catalog for correct parts usage. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual, Section 03-05, for service details.c. Repeat the test procedure after fan clutch replacement to verify the fix and to assure customer satisfaction. The rate of rise of the coolant temperature will slow down after clutch engagement, but it will continue to rise as long as the radiator remains covered.d. If this is not the concern, go to Step 11.11. Check for fan disengagement...a. After completion of the above tests, shut off the engine.b. Remove the cardboard cover from the front of the radiator.c. Restart and return the gas engine to 2700 to 3000 rpm or diesel engine at 2100 to 2300 rpm, continuing to watch the coolant temperature which will begin to decrease. The fan rpm will drop to a reduced noise level where it was before the cycle began which indicates that the fan clutch has disengaged.d. If the fan clutch remains engaged and the coolant temperature has dropped below the thermostat opening temperature (as noted in Step 9) for at least five minutes, the fan clutch should be replaced. Refer to the Dealer Master Parts Catalog for correct parts usage. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual, Section 03-05, for service details.e. Repeat the test procedure after fan clutch replacement to confirm the fix and to assure customer satisfaction.OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONEWARRANTY STATUS:Eligible Under Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage For 1992 Models, Basic Warranty Coverage For All Other ModelsOPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME921514A Diagnosis Only - F-Series And Bronco 0.6 Hr. fanclutchtest.jpg | Hits: 7484 | Posted on: 1/25/06 | View Low-Res TSB 92-15-14 Fan Clutch Diagnosis
  10. Yo T, Following in 1996 Bronco Workshop Manual (partial) via http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm Starting from the basics first; B1 CHECK COOLANT LEVEL; NOTE: If engine is hot, allow engine to cool down before proceeding. Remove radiator cap and check coolant level at radiator coolant recovery reservoir. Is coolant level OK? Yes No GO to B2. REFILL as outlined. REFER to Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleedingin the Cleaning and Inspection portion of this section. GO to Pinpoint Test A. B2 CHECK COOLANT CONDITION Check coolant for contaminants such as rust or corrosion. Also, check for color discoloration. Is coolant condition OK? Yes No GO to B3. FLUSH system. REFER to Cooling System Flush Procedure in the Cleaning and Inspection portion of this section. RETEST system. AS Skitter advised: ●B3 CHECK FOR AIRFLOW OBSTRUCTION Visually inspect A/C condenser core and radiator for obstructions, such as leaves or bugs. Is there any obstruction? Yes No REMOVE obstruction and CLEAN A/C condenser core and radiator in the Cleaning and Inspection portion of this section. RETEST system. GO to B4. ●B4 CHECK WATER THERMOSTAT OPERATION Allow engine to run for 10 minutes. Feel the inlet and outlet heater water hose and the underside of the upper radiator hose. Are the upper radiator hose and heater water hoses cold? Yes No REPLACE water thermostat. REFER to Thermostat, Water in the Removal and Installation portion of this section. RETEST system. LEAVE engine RUNNING. GO to B5. ● B5 CHECK COOLING FAN● Check for proper cooling fan clutch operation. ●Perform Fan Clutch Test. Refer to Component Tests in this section. Did cooling fan clutch operate OK? Yes No CHECK the following: Rust or scale in radiator Water pump shaft and impeller Collapsed lower hose REPLACE fan clutch. REFER to Cooling Fan Blade and Fan Clutch in the Removal and Installation portion of this section. RETEST system. ¤¤¤¤ Fan Clutch Test Spin the fan. A light resistance should be felt. If there is no resistance or very high resistance, the minimum and maximum fan speeds must be checked as follows: Refer to Fan Clutch Specifications at the end of this section. Minimum Fan Clutch Requirement Test — Cold WARNING: TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE, DO NOT OPERATE THE ENGINE UNTIL THE FAN HAS BEEN FIRST EXAMINED FOR POSSIBLE CRACKS AND SEPARATION. Using a suitable marker, mark the water pump pulley (8509), one of the fan blade retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley (6312). Connect a tachometer to the engine. Install a throttle adjusting tool. Connect a Sun Strobe Light or equivalent. This can be an SLT-1 or SLT-2 Strobotach or an STA-1 Strobe Trigger adapter for the Sun Distributor Test Stand. A Digital Photoelectric Tachometer 055-00108 or equivalent may also be used for this test. Start the engine and run it at approximately 1500 rpm until engine temperature has normalized. Adjust the engine to the testing speed in the Specificationsat the end of this section. Operate the strobe light at water pump test speed and aim it at the water pump pulley. Adjust the engine speed until the light flashes and the water pump pulley marks are synchronized. Aim the timing light at the fan retaining bolts. Adjust the strobe light until it is synchronized with the marked fan retaining bolt (fan appears to stand still). The fan speed must not be greater than the specified fan test speed at water pump test speed. Turn the engine OFF. If the fan speed was greater than the specified fan test speed, check for proper parts usage. If the correct parts are used, replace the fan clutch (8A616). If the part(s) are not the correct ones, replace the part(s) and perform the test again. If the engaged fan clutch requirement test is going to be performed, do not remove the tachometer, strobe light or throttle adjusting tool. If a Maximum Speed Fan Clutch Requirement test is not going to be performed, remove the tachometer, strobe light and throttle adjusting tool. Maximum Speed Fan Clutch Requirement Test WARNING: TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE, DO NOT OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE HOOD OPEN UNTIL THE FAN HAS BEEN FIRST EXAMINED FOR POSSIBLE CRACKS AND SEPARATION. If the disengaged fan clutch requirement test was not performed, follow Steps 1 through 5 under Minimum Speed Fan Clutch Requirement test. Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille (8200), this will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed. Place the air conditioning selector, if so equipped, in the maximum position and the blower switch in the high position. Adjust the strobe light to water pump test speed. Start the engine and adjust it until the water pump pulley is synchronized with the strobe light. This will be near the engine testing speed given in Specifications. Synchronize the timing light with the fan to fan clutch retaining bolt. The fan speed must meet or exceed the specified minimum fan blade test speed at water pump test speed. If the fan speed was less than the specified fan test speed, replace the fan clutch. Specifications @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj33040.htm#spec330 ¤¤¤ Burping the coolant system; this is by Ford;WARNING: DO NOT STAND IN LINE WITH OR NEAR ENGINE COOLING FAN BLADE (8600) WHEN ENGINE (6007) IS RUNNING.WARNING: NEVER REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP (8100) UNDER ANY CONDITIONS WHILE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE COOLING SYSTEM OR ENGINE OR PERSONAL INJURY. TO AVOID HAVING SCALDING HOT COOLANT OR STEAM BLOW OUT OF THE RADIATOR (8005), USE EXTREME CARE WHEN REMOVING THE RADIATOR CAP FROM A HOT RADIATOR. WAIT UNTIL THE ENGINE HAS COOLED, THEN WRAP A THICK CLOTH AROUND THE RADIATOR CAP AND TURN IT SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. STEP BACK WHILE THE PRESSURE IS RELEASED FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM. WHEN YOU ARE SURE ALL THE PRESSURE HAS BEEN RELEASED, PRESS DOWN ON THE RADIATOR CAP (STILL WITH A CLOTH), TURN AND REMOVE IT.1. Fill the radiator with a 50/50 mixture of the specified engine coolant concentrate and water. Allow several minutes for trapped air to escape (bubble out) and for engine coolant to flow through the radiator.2. Replace the radiator cap to its fully installed position, then back off to the first stop. This will prevent high pressure from building up in the cooling system during this part of the fill procedure.3. Start and idle the engine until the thermostat opens and the radiator upper hose becomes warm.4. Shut off the engine and allow the engine to cool. Cover the radiator cap with a thick cloth and cautiously remove it. Step back while the pressure releases. 5. Finally, check the radiator and add more engine coolant if needed, following the procedures noted above. Reinstall the radiator cap securely, when finished.6. If more engine coolant is necessary, fill the overflow reservoir to the appropriate level marked on the bottle..."if ok;●If the heater water hoses are too hot to hold, the thermostat is OKInstall the water thermostat in the intake manifold opening with the copper pellet or element toward the engine (6007) and the thermostat flange positioned in the recess. If the water thermostat is improperly installed, it will cause a retarded flow of coolant. ¤¤¤"... the spring side of the thermostat goes into the intake manifold. take the upper hose off and make sure its the right direction.." by kingfish
  11. Yo RR, Good on the inspection! all A-OK? Here is tge USMC POV INSPECTION CHECKLIST https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.albany.marines.mil/Portals/75/Docs/Safety/Motorcyle%20Vehicle/POV-Inspection-Checklist.pdf%3Fver%3D2017-05-12-104620-947&ved=2ahUKEwiN94f205rhAhXimuAKHc5qA2QQFjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw3OyrDzW0lJW75iVwfZ6SAi
  12. Yo, Expect the worse such as rust. I bought the 96 Bronco 1/4 panel patch panels from MILL SUPPLY, Cleveland, OHTheir body parts On-line Store site is rustrepair.com.They are primed and of 18 gauge steel - exact fit around wheel well arch and packaged very well for shipping.Upper wheel arch area 16"H x 40"L 87-98 $29.00 & RHfrom the horizontal crease below camper top down to wheel arches and around the archesexact fit = was able to weld w/no adjustments to it or the 1/4Order their Catalog(s)Printed Catalogs do not list price though.FORD TRUCKS PDF PAGES 86-97 Aerostar 66-77 Bronco 78-79 Bronco 80-86 Bronco 87-91 Bronco 92-96 Bronco 84-90 Bronco II https://www.millsupply.com/auto-body-rust-repair-panels/ford-pickup-suv-van/ford-bronco/66-77-ford-bronco/ Or, https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Steel-Body/products/124/ https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/category/66-77-bronco-body-panels GL!
  13. Yo RR, Congrats on the inspection! Look for a Corbeau in a yard queen. I've seen them in Stangs, Camaros and the other usual suspects.
  14. Yo 93, The gauges don't travel through nor are controlled by the computer. The sender's should work on the 408. On the 408 ensure all ground straps etc are attached to block. Some of the wiring diagrams: Pin Number Circuit Circuit Function 1 904 (LG/R) Charge Indicator Lamp 2 932 (GY/W) High Beam Indicator Input 3 57 (BK) Ground 4 450 (DG/LG) Fasten Belt Indicator Input 5 29 (Y/W) Fuel Level Input (with Tachometer) 6 19 (LB/R) Instrument Cluster Illumination Input 7 57 (BK) Ground 8 2 (W/LB) Right Turn Input 9 648 (W/PK) Tachometer Input Signal 10 398 (BK/Y) Tachometer Ground (for 8 Cylinder) 11 784 (LB/BK) Low Range Indicator Input 12 210 (LB) 4x4 Indicator Input 13 640 (R/Y) Power Supply in RUN and START 14 16 (R/LG) Charge Indicator Input C1 instrument Cluster Connector ¤ Pin Number Circuit Circuit Function 1 875 (BK/LB) Unique Ground to Gauges 2 658 (PK/LG) "Check Engine Indicator" Input 3 603 (DG) Anti-lock Brake Warning Indicator Input 4 977 (P/W) Brake Warning Indicator Input 5 — Not Used 6 29 (Y/W) Fuel Level Input (Without Tachometer) 7 3 (LG/W) Left Turn Input 8 31 (W/R) Oil Pressure Input 9 875 (BK/LB) Unique Ground to Gauges 10 39 (R/W) Temperature Input 11 531 (DG/Y) Brake Level Switch Input 12 608 (BK/Y) Air Bag Indicator 13 640 (R/Y) Power to Gauges, Hot in START or RUN 14 — Not Used C2 instrument Cluster Connector ¤ BRONCO Pin Number Circuit Circuit Function 1 54 (LG/Y) Battery Input 2 676 (PK/O) Ground 3 296 (W/P) Power (Hot in RUN) 4 491 (O/LB) 4WABS Signal Input 5 530 (LG/Y) 4WABS Signal Return 6 — Not Used 7 679 (GY/BK) Speed Output to Instrument Cluster, Speed Control Amplifier to Powertrain Control Module, and Compass ●Speed Control won't work 8 — Not Used 9 567 (LB/Y) PSOM Programming Connector 10 — Not Used 11 — Not Used 12 — Not Used BRONCO Pin Number Circuit Circuit Function 1 54 (LG/Y) Battery Input 2 676 (PK/O) Ground 3 296 (W/P) Power (Hot in RUN) 4 491 (O/LB) 4WABS Signal Input 5 530 (LG/Y) 4WABS Signal Return 6 — Not Used 7 679 (GY/BK) Speed Output to Instrument Cluster, Speed Control Amplifier to Powertrain Control Module, and Compass 8 — Not Used 9 567 (LB/Y) PSOM Programming Connector 10 — Not Used 11 — Not Used 12 — Not Used In 92 through 96, the rear axle mounted VSS provides a 72,900 to 86,900 pulses per mile signal via the 4WABS module to the Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM) aka Speedometer/Odometer; PSOM then converts this signal to 8,000 pulses per mile. The correct PSOM vehicle speed signal to the PCM is an AC square wave that rises to 5 volts positive and drops back to 3 volts negative, with a frequency of about 120 Hz at 60 mph. That signal is sent out to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) aka Computer or Electronic Engine Control (EEC) that controls the shifting of the Electronic 4-Speed Overdrive Transmission (E4OD) if equipped, and then to:speed control amplifier, if equipped;and overhead consoles compass/outside temperature display module, if equipped. Overhead console module uses the PSOM signal to estimate the accuracy of the outside temperature sensor that uses a high-speed counter to monitor vehicle speed to determine whether engine heat is causing erroneous readings. •• See Computer Pin outs @ http://web.archive.org/web/20120118104425/http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/truckpinouts.html
  15. Yo, That's it!😎 I need a smog pump now. But since new, no engine nor E4OD issues except for a DPFE, two O2 & TAD sensors; 4WABS module (jumpered it out); two muffler hangers; shocks (3 times); ball joints (twice); gas tank and leaf spring hangers. It's been our best vehicle ever! BTW, all because we maintain it according to Ford's Severe Duty Schedule ++ +
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