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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

miesk5

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About miesk5

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    Coronado, CA

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    1996

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  1. miesk5

    6 inch lift on 1995 bronco

    Yo D, Superlift® 6 inch coil to BDS 4 inch lift coil measurements & pics in a 95 at https://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/media/245222 Significant excerpt; "... dscn0912.jpg | Hits: 1265 | Posted on: 9/17/05 | View original size (665.58 KB) Uncompressed Superlift 6" lift coil on top, measures at 21.5 inches compared to the BDS 4" lift coil on bottom measuring at 18 inches. Superlift® 4 to 6 inch Installation in 80-96 Source: by Steve W at http://www.tamor.org/techreports/ford/superlift/default.htm Superlift® 6 inch Conversion from a SL 4 inch in a 91 Source: by Eric L (The Rig, SOLD) at http://supermotors.net/site/erlong/progressive/041999/suspensionlift/index.html Get another estimate from a shop that does lifts. Good luck!
  2. miesk5

    low heat after thermostat replacement

    Yo D, Sorry, have to rush this reply. "... the spring side of the thermostat goes into the intake manifold. take the upper hose off and make sure its the right direction.." After running engine to normal operating temperature; BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS;FEEL heater water hoses. If the heater water hoses are too hot to hold, the thermostat is OK. If the heater water hoses do not get too hot to hold, check coolant flow to confirm water pump is moving coolant. If ok, replace the thermostat. If only one heater water hose gets hot while the other remains cool, a plugged heater water hose or heater core is indicated.Heater water hoses.CHECK condition and routing of hoses . Visually inspect condition of heater water hoses for pinched or collapsed conditionsCHECK COOLANT FLOW THROUGH HEATER COREStart vehicle and allow to reach normal operating temperature.Place temperature control knob in the full warm position.Grasp inlet and outlet heater water hoses. Both heater water hoses should be warm to the touch due to coolant flowing through them. ● temperature blend door may be stuck closed. Depending upon its position, the temperature blend door in the heater air plenum chamber directs a given amount of air through the heater core to provide a desired amount of heat. If the amount of air directed by the blend door through the heater core is reduced, less heat will be directed into the passenger compartment. Conversely, a fully open blend door, in response to a fully WARM setting of the temperature control knob, will provide maximum heat into the passenger compartment. ...The diverter door (panel, defrost, floor) is totally independent of the blend door (hot/cold), and it's vacuum-operated, so it'll always be slow; possibly temp blend door is stuck or loose & flopping around on its own. The easiest way to see it is to fully lower the glove box, pull the ~8 screws from the heater core cover, & look inside to the L (driver's side). You'll see the cable & control lever (in top L of 2nd pic) as soon as you fold the glovebox down, so inspect it first. "...The module I MISlabelled as "Airbag" is actually the Wiper Control Module (WCM). The Airbag Diagnostic Module (ADM) is light blue, wrapped in black foam, above the gas pedal..," by Steve ... "...If all the controls are functioning and you can actually see the cable moving the actuator lever, and you still can't get warm air then most likely your problem is going to be the blend temp door inside the HAVC box. The door is hinged by a piece of flexible plastic, the hinge wears out and breaks then it is not forced into the hot air position by the cable. I found a good one in the junk yard and replaced mine. You have to take most of the dash apart to get to the thing. It takes a while to complete this repair..." Source: by JDApollo (John A) at FSB ... The 3rd shows the whole cover - it's the large section in the top center with tiny white numbers inked near its bottom edge. .The diverter door (panel, defrost, floor) is totally independent of the blend door (hot/cold), and it's vacuum-operated, so it'll always be slow. Concentrate on the blend door for now. pull the cover & look at it..." bybSteve As advised and by Ford in 1996 Bronco Workshop Manual (partial) @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual See section 12-00: Climate Control System, Service DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING Symptom Chart — Climate Control System Insufficient, Erratic, or No Heat Low radiator coolant due to coolant leaks. CHECK radiator cap pressure. REPLACE if below minimum pressure. FILL to specified coolant level. PRESSURE TEST for engine cooling system and heating system leaks. SERVICE as required. Thermostat. FEEL heater water hoses. If the heater water hoses are too hot to hold, the thermostat is OK. If the heater water hoses do not get too hot to hold, REPLACE the thermostat. If only one heater water hose gets hot while the other remains cool, a plugged heater water hose or heater core is indicated. Heater water hoses. CHECK condition and routing of hoses. GO to Pinpoint Test A @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series □ "Vacuum Leak Diagnosis: The air handling system is designed to provide defrost when no vacuum is applied to any of the three air door vacuum motors in at least 92-96. This is done to prevent a situation where defrost cannot be obtained due to a system vacuum leak. Instead, a leak in the vacuum control circuit will send all airflow to the defroster outlets. This condition may occur during acceleration (slow leak), may exist at all times (large leak) and may happen only when certain specific functions are selected, indicating a leak in that portion of the circuit. ... The air handling system is designed to provide defrost when no vacuum is applied to any of the three air door vacuum motors in 92-96. This is done to prevent a situation where defrost cannot be obtained due to a system vacuum leak. Instead, a leak in the vacuum control circuit will send all airflow to the defroster outlets. This condition may occur during acceleration (slow leak), may exist at all times (large leak) and may happen only when certain specific functions are selected, indicating a leak in that portion of the circuit. Such as; A/C Switches to Defrost in MAX Mode Vacuum Line Repair in a 92; "...began pulling out the tubing. To my surprise, the tubing that inside the plastic tubing was like new..." read more Source: by JohnMcD348 at https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/175808-how-i-fixed-my-c-vac-leak.html mesk5 Note, John repaired the Outside Recirculate Door Vacuum Motor vacuum hose Outside Recirculate Door Vacuum Motor pic in a 90; Shiny piece in upper left near passenger hood hinge, ... "The air handling system is designed to provide defrost when no vacuum is applied to any of the three air door vacuum motors. This is done to prevent a situation where defrost cannot be obtained due to a system vacuum leak. Instead, a leak in the vacuum control circuit will send all airflow to the defroster outlets. This condition may occur during acceleration (slow leak), may exist at all times (large leak) and may happen only when certain specific functions are selected, indicating a leak in that portion of the circuit. The vacuum hoses used in the passenger compartment control circuit are constructed from PVC plastic material. The vacuum hoses used in the engine compartment are constructed of Hytrel. Because of the materials used, the vacuum hoses should never be pinched off during diagnosis to locate a leak. Use Rotunda Vacuum Tester 014-R1054 or equivalent to locate vacuum leaks. A wood golf tee can be used as a plug when it is necessary to plug one end of a vacuum hose for leak test purposes. " ●See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl some jowens HVAC Control Panel pics/info @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/206824-help-dtc-codes-idle.html □ TSB 96-13-7 AIR CONDITIONING/HEATER - LOW OR NO HEAT/AIR CONDITIONING - HIGH EFFORT TO TURN TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB - POOR TEMPERATURE MODULATION - LOW OR NO HEAT/COOLING - VEHICLES BUILT THROUGH 2/27/95 Publication Date: JUNE 17, 1996 LIGHT TRUCK: 1992-1995 BRONCO, F-150-350 SERIES, F-47 ISSUE: The temperature control knob may be difficult to turn on some vehicles. There may also be a low or no heat/cooling condition accompanied by poor temperature modulation. This may be caused by the single cable temperature door operating system being used. ACTION: Replace the A/C Temperature Control Cable Assembly with a new pull/pull cable design. The new design cable will provide improved control of the temperature door. Refer to the following Diagnostic and Replacement Procedures for details. DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE 1. If the vehicle exhibits high effort turning the temperature control knob or poor temperature modulation, a new cable must be installed. Refer to the Replacement Procedure listed in this article. For a low or no heat/cooling concern, continue on with the Diagnostic Procedure. 2. Check vehicle's coolant for the correct level, concentration and operating temperature with the thermostat open. If a concern is found in one (1) of these areas, refer to the appropriate Service Manual for repair procedures. The repairs must be done before proceeding. 3. Verify proper A/C system charge and operation. Repair as necessary. 4. If the concern still exists, perform the Cable Adjustment procedure listed in the appropriate F-Series/Bronco Service Manual, Section 12. 5. If the concern still exists, replace the temperature door cable. Refer to the following Replacement Procedure for details. REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE REMOVAL 1. Remove glove compartment and module assembly, if present. 2. Detach cable from plenum using Tool D91T-18532-A. Remove and discard cable. 3. At the cable bracket on the plenum heater core cover, cut away the bracket using a hacksaw blade or similar tool. 4. Remove the 5/16" headed screw from the top of the cam. Discard the cam and screw with spring clip. 5. At cam post, add post extension and secure with the new screw, torquing the screw to 1.7 N-m (15 lb-in). 6. Remove the upper left screw securing the plenum heater core cover and install the A/C plenum chamber support bracket between the ribs to the right side of the bracket which was cut off. Make sure the hole from the previously removed screw is lined up with the hole in the plenum chamber support bracket. INSTALLATION 1. At the plenum chamber, move the temperature door arm to the "full warm" position (counterclockwise) and be sure it remains there throughout the installation procedure. 2. At the small end of the cable (control head), remove the temperature control bracket from the cable by releasing the three (3) snaps using Tool T94P-18532-A or a thin blade screwdriver to allow the cable to be pushed back through the instrument panel toward the control head. 3. Be sure the new pull/pull cable is in the "full warm" position. Check the molded-in arrow at the control head portion of the cable. Normally the cable is shipped in the "full warm" position. 4. At the plenum, position the cam end of the cable over the post. Make sure the temperature door arm can move into the slot of the cam and push down until the cam is engaged on the post. An audible click can be heard. If it is necessary to remove the cam cable head, use moderate finger pressure on the plastic tab at the top of the cam cable head, moving it back so the cam may be pulled out off the post. 5. Place the twin cables in the center slots of the A/C plenum chamber support bracket. If adjustment is needed later, the cables can be moved to the other adjacent slots. 6. Route new cable through the instrument panel following the same path as the old cable. 7. Check the new temperature control bracket to be sure it is in the "full warm" position. The tab should be in the slot in the bracket. 8. Push the temperature control bracket onto the control assembly and turn it to catch under the retaining tab. Secure with the new screw previously saved. 9. Place the knob on the temperature control. 10. Push the cable head onto the temperature control bracket (make sure gear pilot centering hole is lined up correctly) until the three (3) lock into position (you should hear a click of three (3) tabs). 11. Install temperature control assembly in instrument panel. 12. Swiftly rotate temperature control knob to each extreme (cool-warm) and listen for the sound of the temperature door closing in both directions. If no audible close is heard, move the cable into different slots at the A/C plenum chamber support bracket covered in Step 4 of the Installation Procedure until there is an audible close in each direction. 13. Bring vehicle to operating temperature and verify proper heating and cooling by measuring the temperature of the discharge air at the outlets. 14. At A/C plenum chamber support bracket, secure cable to bracket with a tie strap to keep cable in place. Obtain an Authorized Modifications Decal and list the date, dealer number, and summary of alterations performed. Select a prominent place adjacent to the Vehicle Emission Control Information Decal suitable for installing the Authorized Modifications Decal. Clean the area, install the decal, and cover it with a clear plastic decal shield. The Temperature Control Cable Kit (F5TZ-19988-CA) consists of: One (1) Temperature Control Cable One (1) Temperature Control Bracket One (1) Plenum Support Bracket One (1) Post Extension One (1) Screw One (1) Tie Strap One (1) Instruction Sheet (I.S. #6630A) PART NUMBER: Temperature Control Cable Kit PART NAME: F5TZ-19988-CA OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage OPERATION: 961307A DESCRIPTION: Install Pull/Pull Cable Retrofit Kit TIME: 0.8 Hr. ⊙ Burping the coolant system; this is by Ford;WARNING: DO NOT STAND IN LINE WITH OR NEAR ENGINE COOLING FAN BLADE (8600) WHEN ENGINE (6007) IS RUNNING.WARNING: NEVER REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP (8100) UNDER ANY CONDITIONS WHILE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE COOLING SYSTEM OR ENGINE OR PERSONAL INJURY. TO AVOID HAVING SCALDING HOT COOLANT OR STEAM BLOW OUT OF THE RADIATOR (8005), USE EXTREME CARE WHEN REMOVING THE RADIATOR CAP FROM A HOT RADIATOR. WAIT UNTIL THE ENGINE HAS COOLED, THEN WRAP A THICK CLOTH AROUND THE RADIATOR CAP AND TURN IT SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. STEP BACK WHILE THE PRESSURE IS RELEASED FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM. WHEN YOU ARE SURE ALL THE PRESSURE HAS BEEN RELEASED, PRESS DOWN ON THE RADIATOR CAP (STILL WITH A CLOTH), TURN AND REMOVE IT.1. Fill the radiator with a 50/50 mixture of the specified engine coolant concentrate and water. Allow several minutes for trapped air to escape (bubble out) and for engine coolant to flow through the radiator.2. Replace the radiator cap to its fully installed position, then back off to the first stop. This will prevent high pressure from building up in the cooling system during this part of the fill procedure.3. Start and idle the engine until the thermostat opens and the radiator upper hose becomes warm.4. Shut off the engine and allow the engine to cool. Cover the radiator cap with a thick cloth and cautiously remove it. Step back while the pressure releases. 5. Finally, check the radiator and add more engine coolant if needed, following the procedures noted above. Reinstall the radiator cap securely, when finished.6. If more engine coolant is necessary, fill the overflow reservoir to the appropriate level marked on the bottle..."if ok;If the heater water hoses are too hot to hold, the thermostat is OKInstall the water thermostat in the intake manifold opening with the copper pellet or element toward the engine (6007) and the thermostat flange positioned in the recess. If the water thermostat is improperly installed, it will cause a retarded flow of coolant.and by KINGFISH;
  3. miesk5

    Odd issue

    MLPS TEST w/ Connector Pin Diagram w/colors by RLA at 1993_f_series_mlps_pinout_and_testing_2cb56e2ae312f5db2a43e732b5c9092d719e2c82
  4. miesk5

    Happy Holidays

    Yo Ron, Thank you! We wish you, your family and friends a joyful & peaceful holiday!
  5. miesk5

    Odd issue

    Yo, Ok, assuming it was 11for both koeo and koer; Concerns: No 1st Gear In Drive, Engages In Higher Gear Possible Component Reference/Action 215 — ELECTRICAL ROUTINE Powertrain Control System Electrical inputs/outputs, vehicle wiring harnesses, powertrain control module, shift solenoid 1, shift solenoid 2, transmission range sensor Run On-Board Diagnostics. Refer to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual for diagnosis. Perform Service Manual Pinpoint Tests A and D using the Rotunda Transmission Tester 007-00085, Cable and Overlay 007-00107 and the Transmission Range (TR) Sensor Cable "B" (MLPS Manual Lever Position Sensor Cable) 007-00086 or equivalents as outlined in this manual. Service as required. Clear codes, road test and rerun On-Board Diagnostics. This is self test 315 — HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL ROUTINE Shift Linkage (Internal/External) or Cables, Transmission Range (TR) Sensor Damaged, not connected, misadjusted Inspect and service as required. Verify linkage adjustment as outlined. After servicing linkage, verify that the transmission range (TR) sensor is properly adjusted. Refer to In-Vehicle Service in this section. Main Controls Bolts not tightened to specification Retighten bolts to specification. Gaskets damaged, misaligned Inspect for damage and replace. Shift solenoid 1, shift solenoid 2 stuck or damaged Refer to Electrical Routine No. 215. Solenoid regulator valve, 2-3 shift valve, 3-4 shift valve, D2 valve — stuck, missing, misassembled, damaged Inspect for damage. Service as required. Air bleeds for S1-S2 circuits missing Inspect for damage. Replace case. Wrong components used in rebuild Verify that proper components were used. Service as required. Mechanical Band servo, clutches damaged Refer to proper disassembly procedures in this section. For diagnosis related to a specific gear, use Transmission Tester to determine gear Refer to the following routine(s) for further diagnosis No Shift 1-2, Routine 220/320 No Shift 2-3, Routine 221/321 No Shift 3-4, Routine 222/322 Reverse Ring Gear Damaged gear lugs to reverse carrier Inspect for damage. Service as required. Low One-Way Clutch Damaged, misassembled Inspect for damage, proper assembly. Service as required
  6. miesk5

    Odd issue

    Yo, Ok, I understand. BTW, a Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) flashing is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
  7. miesk5

    Odd issue

    Yo skitter, Check for codes yet¿ Is Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) & flashing¿ Some possible TC related codes: DTC 62 or 628 Converter Overheat, High Line Pressure; E4OD/4R100 transmissions often have problems with converter overheat, codes 62, 628,, high line pressure and low cooler. The pressure regulator valve can close off critical converter/cooler circuit under high-demand situations, causing the TCC to drag on and glaze the lining at idle, or restricting converter/cooler charge during high load causing converter slip codes, overheat and lube failures. Or, DTC 629, Output circuit check, generated only by electrical condition. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition. Symptoms: Failed on; engine stalls in drive at idle, low speeds with brake applied or manual second.
  8. Good! I wonder about some load ratings too, especially because of your Centurion's weight.
  9. Ignition Switch Removal & Installation in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty, F-Super Duty Motorhome and Bronco Workshop Manual; same as 92 through 95 and possibly earlier years. "... Ignition SwitchRemovalDisconnect battery ground cable (14301). Remove the upper steering column shroud (3530) by removing the self-tapping screws.Remove four bolts retaining lower steering column shroud and remove lower steering column shroud.Remove lock screw and disconnect the ignition switch electrical connector.Rotate the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) to the RUN position.Remove the two screws retaining ignition switch (11572).Disengage the ignition switch from the actuator.InstallationNOTE: A new replacement ignition switch assembly will be set in the RUN position as received.Adjust the ignition switch by sliding the carrier to the RUN position.Make sure the ignition switch lock cylinder is in the RUN position. The RUN position is achieved by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder approximately 90 degrees from the LOCK position.Install the ignition switch into the column actuator hole. It may be necessary to move the ignition switch back and forth slightly to align the ignition switch mounting holes with the lock cylinder housing threaded holes.Install retaining screws. Tighten to 6-8 Nm (53-71 lb-in).Connect the electrical connector to the ignition switch. Tighten lock screw to 0.8-1.3 Nm (7-11.5 lb-in).Connect battery ground cable. Check ignition switch for proper function, including START and ACC positions. Also, make certain that the column is in the LOCK position.Install the upper steering column shroud and lower steering column shroud."
  10. Yo, That's a bummer! See https://www.aa1car.com/library/tirefail.htm We checked for a squirrel nest on engine, driver side. They nibble on the vacuum hoses and fuel injector connectors. We bought concentrated peppermint to drop around area and top of driver side front tire.
  11. Yo, A previous owner or shop may have swapped a 94 through 96 5.0 or even a 5.8 in. Check the casting number; on the small block V8, it's is above the starter. For example; http://s420.photobucket.com/user/th3jessejames/media/Picture111.jpg.html F4T = 94 Truck: 4C1 = March 1 1994 See http://reincarnation-automotive.com/casting-numbers-page-2-ford-casting-numbers-explained.html https://classicmustang.com/decoding-part-numbers/ ○ 94 through 96 5.0 and All 5.8 have same firing orders, 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 . On these vehicles, the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire. To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap. ○ If you still have DTC 33, it must be solved. DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing.... To prevent the EGR valve from opening when the engine is cold, vacuum is not allowed to pass to the valve until the engine is warm. EGR isn't needed when the engine is cold, only when it is warm and under load. ○ "Dotted needle"; is in my vacuum leak test hot link; such as in #2, "NORMAL READING DURING RAPID ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION... "engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading." Note that the dotted neeedle is shown near zero on the gauge. Section 03-00: Engine, Service Workshop Manual SERVICE PROCEDURES Intake Manifold Vacuum Test Bring the engine (6007) to normal operating temperature. Connect Rotunda Vacuum/Pressure Tester 164-R0253 or equivalent to the intake manifold (9424). Run the engine at the specified idle speed. The vacuum gauge should read between -51 and -74 kPa (15 and 22 in-Hg) depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. SUBTRACT 5.5 kPa FOR EVERY 500 METERS ABOVE SEA LEVEL. SUBTRACT ONE INCH FROM THE SPECIFIED READING FOR EVERY 1,000 FEET OF ELEVATION ABOVE SEA LEVEL. The reading should be quite steady. It may be necessary to adjust the gauge damper control (where used) if the needle is fluttering rapidly. Adjust damper until needle moves easily without excessive flutter. Vacuum Gauge Readings, Interpretation A careful study of the vacuum gauge reading while the engine is idling will help pinpoint trouble areas. Always conduct other appropriate tests before arriving at a final diagnostic decision. Remember that vacuum gauge readings must be interpreted with care. Most vacuum gauges have a "normal" band indicated on the gauge face. Following are potential gauge readings. Some should be considered as normal; others should be investigated further. NORMAL READING: Needle between -51 and -74 kPa (15 and 22 in-Hg) and holding steady. NORMAL READING DURING RAPID ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION: When engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading. When throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure. NORMAL FOR HIGH LIFT CAM WITH LARGE OVERLAP: Needle will register as low as -51 kPa (15 in-Hg) but will be relatively steady. Some oscillation is normal. WORN RINGS OR DILUTED OIL: When engine is accelerated (dotted needle), needle drops to 0 kPa (zero in-Hg). Upon deceleration, needle runs slightly above 74 kPa (4 in-Hg). STICKING VALVE(S): When the needle (dotted) remains steady at a normal vacuum but occasionally flicks (sharp, fast movement) down and back about 13 kPa (4 in-Hg), one or more valves may be sticking. BURNED OR WARPED VALVES: A regular, evenly spaced, downscale flicking of the needle indicates one or more burned or warped valves. Insufficient hydraulic lash adjuster clearance will also cause this action. POOR VALVE SEATING: A small but regular downscale flicking can mean one or more valves are not seating. WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates (swings back and forth) over a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed, the valve guides (6510) could be worn. As engine speed is increased, the needle will become steady if the guides are responsible. WEAK VALVE SPRINGS: When the needle oscillation becomes more violent as engine rpm is increased, weak valve springs (6513) are indicated. The reading at idle could be relatively steady. LATE VALVE TIMING: A steady but low reading could be caused by late valve timing. IGNITION TIMING RETARDING: Retarded ignition timing will produce a steady but low reading. INSUFFICIENT SPARK PLUG GAP: When spark plugs (12405) are gapped too close, a regular, small pulsation of the needle can occur. INTAKE LEAK: A low, steady reading can be caused by an intake manifold or throttle body gasket (TB gasket) (9E936) leak. BLOWN HEAD GASKET: A regular drop of approximately 33-50 kPa (10-15 in-Hg) can be caused by a blown head gasket (6051) or warped head-to-block mounting surface. RESTRICTED EXHAUST SYSTEM: When the engine is first started and is idled, the reading may be normal. As the engine rpm is increased, the back-pressure caused by a clogged muffler, kinked tail pipe, etc., will cause the needle to slowly drop to zero. The needle then may slowly rise. Excessive exhaust clogging will cause the needle to drop to a low point even if the engine is only idled. When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. ALWAYS SERVICE VACUUM LEAKS.
  12. miesk5

    Need Help Troubleshooting!

    Yo Yeti, It's likely the EEC Relay (BROWN CONNECTOR) is hanging closed; If the EEC relay goes bad, it could be sending the signal to the fuel pump relay to turn the fuel pumps on; One easy test for this is: Without the key in ignition, bump the starter over @ the starter relay using a screwdriver. If it is the EEC relay, the truck will start without the key in the ignition..." You have ruled out the FP relay hanging closed. MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; When the ignition is switched to the ON position, it turns the EEC Power Relay on. The EEC Power Relay provides power to the EEC-IV processor and the control side of the fuel pump relay. Power for the fuel pumps is supplied through a fuse link attached to the starter relay (battery side). From the fuse link, current flow is through the fuel pump relay and Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch to the fuel pumps. The IFS switch is a safety device used to shut off the fuel pump in the event of a collision. If the IFS switch is "tripped," it must be reset by depressing the white or red button on the top of the switch. The fuel pump relay is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, the fuel pumps will operate. If the ignition switch is not turned to the START position, the PCM will shut the fuel pumps off after approximately one second. The PCM will operate the fuel pumps when the ignition is in the START position to provide fuel while cranking. After the engine starts, the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pumps unless the engine stops, engine speed drops below 120 rpm, or the IFS switch is "tripped." ○ Wiring Diagram in an 89 ○ Consider EEC & Fuel Pump Relay Swapping to Bosch Style Relays & Color Codes in all pre-'92 EFI Bronco & F-series; "...Working on ONE relay at a time, remove the terminals from the stock connector & discard it. I collected these Bosch-style sockets in junkyards, but they're available at most parts stores, from Ford, or several online suppliers like RJMInjectionTech.com as crimp-on kits for a near-factory look. Being careful to connect the wires to the proper terminals (using the list below), securely connect the old wires to the terminals of the new sockets. Try to keep the wires the same length so there's not a huge ratnest. EEC PWR 30 - Y (battery always 12V) 87 - Bu, DB, R (out to EEC) 85 - Wh/LB, R/LG (12V in from ig.sw.) 86 - Bk/LG, Bk (ground); FP: 30 - Y (battery always 12V) 87 - Pk/Bk, Br, DG/Y (out to inertia sw.) 85 - R (12V in from EEC PWR relay) 86 - T/LG, LB/Or (ground from EEC)...It's OK to reverse 30 with 87, or 85 with 86 on either relay. It's possible to just use common insulated flat blade terminals to connect the bare wires to the relay terminals without a socket, but it's not as secure or convenient. Now the truck will be MUCH more reliable, and can use the cheaper, heavier-duty, more common ISO relays that are easier to swap. Tape up the harness & secure the relays to a safe mounting location. Not all relays have mounting tabs like these, but the sockets or harness can be zip-tied to something solid..." @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/507187 ○ Here is the 1989 EVTM, Emissions & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @ https://drive.google.com/drive/mobil...?usp=drive_webSlow scrolling for me with lousy Comcast service.. Find page # of item desired in contents, then flip screen flip down like spinning a bearing (a no-no) then stopping periodically to see which page you're on. ○ Free registration for some wiring diagrams (86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96), same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products @ http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb/ Here are some PCM KILLER perpetrators and other causes:Old leaky capacitors, see https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ore-codes.html by jowens1126Smell around the PCM. If it smells like dead fish, it's bad. Bad Intel 8061 chip or bad Intel 8361 memory chipBad Voltage Regulator, ee http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/images/eec085.gif by Ryan MBurned PCM printed circuit board circuits (brown burn marks). Water damage from cowl leaks, ESPECIALLY if you you have wet carpet or mat near driver kick panel; or on PCM Connector due to a bad hood seal near cowl panel, viewable with hood up.The alternator could be generating an AC voltage spike due to bad diode(s),Bronco was jump started on reverse polarity.Overheated PCM. gl! Al
  13. Yo j, Hello again J! Let me post these tests again for your review and posterity; DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing;Testing & Operation; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor monitors the position of the EGR valve pintle. The EVP sensor converts the mechanical movement of the pintle into an electrical voltage signal which is relayed to the PCM. The EVP sensor is a linear potentiometer in which resistance varies with the EGR valve pintle movement.Voltage is fed to the EVP by the signal return circuit. As the EGR is opened the EVP directs more voltage to the EEC and less down the voltage reference circuit. The EVP sensor provides the PCM with information on EGR flow and EGR system failures. The EVP should read between 0.24 and 0.67 volts at idle with a closed EGR valve..."http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...placement.html by Seattle FSB EGR Valve Test; "...these procedures are based around a typical OBD II Ford system but the overall principals should hold on most vehicle lines. Engine running, so be careful and use proper care! Find the EGR valve and disconnect the vacuum line going to the top of the valve. There should be no vacuum there at this time. If there is then check for proper EVR (EGR vacuum regulator) operation and vacuum line routing. Repair and continue testing. Hook up your hand vacuum pump to the EGR valve and slowly apply a vacuum. If the EGR valve is functioning then the engine should begin to run poorly and stumble. If you apply full vacuum and notice no RPM change or can’t pull a vacuum at all, then check for a faulty diaphragm in the valve or a restriction of the EGR tube, exhaust or intake manifold EGR ports. I have run across many concerns where the EGR passages in the intake manifolds become plugged with carbon and prevent EGR flow, so try to keep this in mind during testing. Repair and continue testing..." by ?Damaged EVP sensor pull vac hose off @ EVP - I pull it off and use the straw sucking test; one finger over one end; and... ya get the idea? Or grab a hand held vacuum pump with gauge availableat local parts store for a refundable deposit.•Corroded or dirty connector•Damaged EGR valve•➡️Faulty Vacuum system•Broken wire in harness•Grounded harness•Damaged Computer □ Misfiring/Pinging due to Improper Spark Plug Wire Routing for 5.0; Diagrams for 5.0, 87-93 & 94-96 5.0 HO - INCLUDES 5.8 Source: by Ford via Tank92 (Tank) °Try my vac leak test @ http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...Test%3B+idlingpost #11 Inspect PCV valve for correct operation and its vacuum hose. Pull it and shake it. Should hear a rattle if good. Air filter; is it relatively clean?Air inlet atop radiator support to filter box and to throttle body; look for obstruction; damaged tubing, openings in tubing, or loose fit at throttle body. Fuel quality; Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. You can check stored gasoline by pouring some into a clear glass container and comparing it side-by-side with known fresh gasoline. If your old sample looks noticeably darker than the fresh gas, you have strong evidence the gas has gone bad. May need to test pressure and filter if all other possible perpetrators are cleared of this crime.Electrical connectors; inspect for corrosion, etc at coil, firewall, ICM, distributor, PCM, etc. especially those with broken locking tabs. Check for correct base timing. Check distributor cap, adapter, and rotor. Inspect spark plugs and plug wires.. Power and Grounds Check from batty post, terminasl to starter relay and alternator . Check both battery posts, and cables, connectors for looseness and corrosion. If you see corrosion on a cables wires strands between connectors or lugs and leading into the insulation, peel back the insulation to see how far back it reaches. check grounds from battery to frame, block, upper intake manifold and small black wires on inner fender near hood hinge on driver side. G100 @ LH front of engine compartment on upper radiator support-in front of WS washer/Coolant overflow tank; G101 front of fender apron-between starter relay & headlight, etc. Restricted Exhaust is much less likely: Inspect the exhaust system for crushed, bent or otherwise restricted pipes. Replace or repair as required. If pipes look good, temporarily remove the O2 sensor ahead of the converter. If symptoms are still present inspect for internal air gap pipe restriction ahead of the converter. If symptoms are no longer present, reinstall the front O2 sensor, remove the O2 sensor behind the converter and retest the vehicle. If symptoms are still present the converter is causing the restriction. Check for rich condition, excessive oil consumption, misfires or other root cause of failure. If symptoms are no longer present with the rear O2 sensor removed, the restriction is in the muffler or resonator. Inspect and replace resonator or muffler assembly as required. Here is the 1989 EVTM, Emissions & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @ https://drive.google.com/drive/mobil...?usp=drive_webSlow scrolling for me with lousy Comcast service.. Find page # of item desired in contents, then flip screen flip down like spinning a bearing (a no-no) then stopping periodically to see which page you're on.1989 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1989 Ford BroncoFree registration for some wiring diagrams (86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96), same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products: http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb/
  14. miesk5

    Defoger

    Yo, For sure Joe!
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