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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

miesk5

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About miesk5

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    http://schwimserver5.com/?index=1128

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    Coronado, CA

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    1996

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  1. Yo 94, No one that I know has a pic of the "clip" . A friend of mine jury rigged a replacement clip, but never snapped a pic of it. Ask at a Ford dealership parts section. Show them the attached Bronco Graveyard diagram showing a depiction of the clip.. The tailgate Vertical interlock "rod assembly" guide clip snaps into the "Lower Torsion Bar Bracket" and upper part connects to Control Mechanism, aka Center Mechanism, . It "jams" the inside handle until the glass is all the way down. This bracket is bolted on. See how BikerPepe` "Also a good time to consider removing the "window down" safety feature... fixed it by securing the center mechanism Removing the L bracket and the rod... eliminates the safety feature If you choose to go that route... you need to be mindful that dropping the tailgate with the window still raised enough to contact the edge of the gate, can easily shatter the glass and potentially cause inury, or at least a considerable mess and major hassle, replacing said glass/defroster/etc. Handle according to your ability, confidence and that of others you may let use your rig.That said... removing the L bracket is easy. I simply took a grinder to the rear of the rivet at the center of the L bracket, on the back side.Once you've done that... no need to install the safety catch rod (or a place to put it, for that matter) and you might be able to re-use that same rod keeper, plastic clip... if it's in better shape than one you're keeping in service. If not... I've seen them available somewhere but have no idea to link you. This is the lever to remove if you want to delete the "window down" safety feature... passed" it by deleting the "window down" safety feature... This is the lever to remove if you want to delete the "window down" safety feature... See the two attachments below. Go through http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2742/12689-2 For a vg good collection of Big Bronco tailgate tech by Steve.
  2. Yo B, Best is to call Holley®. GL!
  3. Yo PRERUNNER BRONCO, Welcome, Please cite your year if you have any questions. GLz!
  4. Yo B, Are you using an electric fuel pump? Which brand pressure gauge/sender? Holley states: Please call Tech Support at 1-866-464-6553, M-F, 8-6 CST. Please have the part number of the product on hand when you call. Connect the fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter and the filter to the inlet port of the pump. Connect the carburetor feed line to the outlet port of the pump. Use of 3/8” fuel hose is recommended.A #6 (3/8") line size is sufficient for all street performance applications and some racing applications. #8 (1/2") fuel lines are used on everything else, including alcohol applications. Avoid using rubber fuel lines, or use them sparingly, for two reasons. First, rubber is more resistant to the flow of fuel than any hard line. An actual pressure loss can be measured over distance. Carbureted vehicle fuel pump; Most electric fuel pumps, including Holley are gravity fed and require mounting below the fuel tank. "MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS FOR ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPS: Due to the current poor quality gasoline that’s available, it is recommended that periodically a can of dry gas be used to absorb the water out of the fuel delivery system. The fuel filter element should be blown clean with compressed air every 6,000 miles and replaced every 12,000 miles to assure maximum protection. If your fuel pump fails to pump or fails to maintain adequate pressure, check the following: 1. Check the voltage at the pump to ensure 12-volt supply. 2. If this doesn’t solve the problem, turn the pump on and listen for a hum from the top of the pump. If there is no hum, the pump’s electrical system should be checked by a competent mechanic. If the pump hums, it probably only needs to be cleaned. 3. Check the fuel line (especially the fuel filter) for any obstruction. Use compressed air to blow the line free."
  5. Yo Zack, Welcome! Following is what a mechanic would check. Try to do as much as you can yourself. Feel free to ask more questions. For slow cranking:Inspect for loose battery posts, connectors, cables and visible wire strands & under insulation an inch or so under coonectors:- inspect for corrosion, damage or looseness.- include ground cables from battery post & connector to engine, frame, intake manifold, hood, etc.;- and positive cable from battery to relay to starter.- check starter relay body to inner fender for tightness to a clean, non-rusted/grime -free surface.- check battery for full charge; Voltage; "...a normal battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts, not just 12.0 V. by El Kabong "Cheesy clamp on end. Do not use for a long term repair. Only to get you home when nothing else is available. If you have one of these, suspect it before anything else" El Kabong @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...lies-faqs.html- use the red and black battery anti-corrosion felt "washers".Slow Cranking or a Grinding Noise; "... Problems with the negative battery cable is a major cause of starting problems in Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. Bad battery cables can cause slow cranking or a grinding noise when trying to start an engine. On some late model vehicles, the wire connection inside the battery terminal connector corrodes easily.➡️miesk5 note, look for greenish corrosion under insulation neat the connector.This will cause a voltage drop in the cable and result in low voltage being supplied to the starter. You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..."Source: by genco1.com"...Why are the cables and battery so important? The starter circuit pulls a lot of amperage, up to 500 amps depending on the starter, the engine load, and battery condition. This kind of amperage stresses all of the components in the starter circuit, including the battery, battery terminals, the cables including the ground path. Problems with these components are hard to find because they appear fine at rest or under a light load, but generate high resistance under heavy amperage draws. The result will be low voltage to the starter during cranking, resulting in heavier amperage draw and increased internal heat in the starter. Over time, this will cause starter failure. Voltage measured at the starter during cranking should always be above 9.5VDC..."Source: by powermastermotorsportsIf all passes, pull starter for a free starter no-load test @ local parts store. ● Shuts Off While Driving: Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19Post Code(s) here according to:KOEO & KOERA helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTSOr ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you. The majority of parts chain stores tests just OBDII vehicles now.Or purchase a coder reader such as;"Innova ODB-1 and we generally recommend getting the extension cord with it, so you can work the ignition key in the cab while watching/holding the reader. It will save the codes but knowing when to go through the cycles and ensuring you get it right the first time can save time and hassle, especially if you're working on it by yourself, as most of us do." by BikerPepe`. Some Code for now; DTC 14 & 18; If the distributor mounted Thick FiIm Ignition Module is failing from heat, it can give off computer codes 14 (PIP) and 18 (SPOUT). Stalling or sputtering when, hot but runs when it cools off can be caused by a faulty Module and the biggest culprits are heat. Another culprit can be a wire grounding out. Stall, NO Start - This bulletin addresses loss of module ground due to salt and moisture entering a module mounting screw. NO Start/Stall at Idle - New Ignition Module: This TSB talks about an internal short-circuit in some model TFI modules. Driveability Concerns - Moist EEC-IV Connectors: This bulletin asks the tech to check for unsealed EEC-IV connectors and check for moisture or corrosion. Wiring: Always check your wiring. Here is a picture of SPOUT (Spark Output signal) wire that was grounding out. The yellow spark output signal wire is without a section of insulation. This section happens to run through a shield ground that provided a convenient ground source for the SPOUT signal. Just the right bump in the road or vibration from the engine would provide a path of lesser resistance for the SPOUT signal, killing the coil trigger. SPOUT Connector pic in an 88 5.0 by jem270 BTW, the SPOUT connector is pulled out when timing the engine. ... This is where the TFI Modile plugs in to the distributor to get the PIP signal. Notice the defective insulation. Heat Is Your Enemy!: The top three leads (for PIP signal) can lose continuity with the back plate (ground) on the module when the unit is hot. You should consider a remote mounted TFI. Ignition Control Module (ICM) Location pic @ distributor in an 89 it's the rectangular object with wires on right side. Source: by Handy_andy_cv64 (Ed ) Take your ignition module off and have it tested. Have them test it up to three times. If it fails any one of those times, replace it. It is located on. Ignition Control Module (ICM) Removal Tips @ distributor; "...To remove the TFI = thick film integrated module you need to loosen the saftey "lock bolt" at base of the distributor so you can TURN the distributor for better access and removal but make a referecne mark so you can turn the distributor back exactly where it was otherwise you'll have to re-set the timimg so it will start and run properly. There's a special tool "ignition module socket, mfg by Powerbuilt # 648420 so you can remove the screws on the module to replace it BUT to test it you just need to turn the ignition key to the "RUN" position, engine off. don't remember what I paid for the "socket" maybe $15.00 range...?Source: by our late friend, JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) Go through this guide;Part 1 -How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).How To Test The Ford Ignition Control Module (Distributor Mounted) @ https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/ignition-control-module-tests-1 ●Some other Stalls When Hot Tests without a Code: "Long crank times may be traced to a sticking Idle Air Control (IAC) valve (TSB 97-9-5, April '97); "...After a 1-4 hour engine soak time, long crank times and/or long crank to start followed by a stall may occur on some vehicles. No further stalling or rough idle will occur after the engine is running. The long crank and/or stall may be due to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve sticking. Replace the IAC Valve with a revised IAC Valve if no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present." ● "Unplug the MAP sensor on the passenger side firewall and see if it starts. If it starts, you have a bad MAP sensor. Typically the computer will throw a MAP communication code for that one though".by Lil' RedMAP Location picby Richard C (Bigric, Money Pit)¤Unplug/test the IAC by SeattleFSB @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...-your-iac.html ●Some no code usual suspects by Ford;Vacuum Leak; "One way to do a quick check is to grab a vacuum gauge. Some parts stores will loan you a gauge with refundable deposit.The vacuum gauge should read between 15 and 22 in-Hg depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. SUBTRACT ONE INCH FROM THE SPECIFIED READING FOR EVERY 1,000 FEET OF ELEVATION ABOVE SEA LEVEL.The reading should be quite steady. .When engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading. When throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost."see my leak diagnosis link in post #11 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...odes-idle.htmlAir filter, is it relatively clean?Air inlet atop radiator support to filter box and to throttle body; look for obstruction; damaged tubing, openings in tubing, loose fit at throttle body or if at MAF sensor.Fuel quality; Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. You can check stored gasoline by pouring some into a clear glass container and comparing it side-by-side with known fresh gasoline. If your old sample looks noticeably darker than the fresh gas, you have strong evidence the gas has gone bad.Electrical connectors; inspect for corrosion, etc at coil, firewall, ICM, distributor, PCM, etc. especially those with broken locking tabs. GL! Al
  6. miesk5

    Hey all new here

    Yo RICKYg76, Welcome! We have a 96 too, bought new. It is the best vehicle in our family's history. No engine, transmission, differential (s) issues. Mainly due to fluid changes according to Ford's severe duty schedule. Find out if speed control, if equipped, recall work completed by a dealership. Call local dealer or register and view status @ https://owner.ford.com; or @ https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/ ... have VIN ready."Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ml#post6530073Note that the 93 recall is different than the 94-96 recall. □ Here's the 96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) via 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual 96 Bronco Owner's Guide, Maintenance Schedules & Parts and Accessories by Ford @ https://www.fleet.ford.com/partsands...owner-manuals/ 96 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ https://www.supermotors.net/registry/3549/15947-2 ... scroll down 96 Bronco Quick Tips Brochure Excerpts & some Eddie Bauer options @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/80431-2 Free registration for some wiring diagrams (partial, 86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96) same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products | TSB's & Wiring Diagrams Register to see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @ http://owner.ford.com . GL with your 96! Al
  7. Yo Trecar, Welcome and THANKS for coming back with your solution! Find out if speed control, if equipped, recall work completed by a dealership. Call local dealer or register and view status @ https://owner.ford.com; or @ https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/ ... have VIN ready.The affected vehicles were previously repaired using a wiring harness that is not compatible with the vehicle circuit polarity. As a result, the fuse is located in the output circuit rather than in the intended input power feed circuit, and may not offer the intended protection in the event of an electrical short to ground. This could result in an underhood fire. Dealers will install a new wiring harness, or replace the mating electrical component. east302 provided following for his 93 "I found the recall information on alldata...didn't know it was even there so that's a plus. Mine has the updated harness with two fuses instead of one, so it looks like the recall was addressed correctly."Use this guide by jowens1126 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ml#post6530073Note that the 93 recall is different that the other years. Here is the 1993 Bronco Dealer Brochure in Google Drive @ https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-x...NNcGprQTA/view1993 Bronco Dealer Training Video via silver70 @ https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=Fvne3bosE3s1993 Bronco, Venezuela Commercial @ Free registration for some wiring diagrams (86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96), same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products | TSB's & Wiring Diagrams
  8. Yo Billy, Google "Big Bear fullsizebronco" for you tubes, etc. See https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/32-west-coast-chapter/17379-big-bear-bronco-bash-04-a.html Enjoy!
  9. Yo Billy, Yes, lock both hubs first, start engine, E4OD in park or Neutral, push the "4x4 button located on the instrument panel. This shift can be done at a stop or at speeds up to 55 miles per hour (88 km/h)." "...❑Do not drive the vehicle in 4H or 4L with the manual locking hubs in the FREE position. ❑Do not drive the vehicle with the left and right manual locking hubs set to different positions. However, the front driveline will remain engaged to the front wheels until the manual locking hubs are disengaged. To disengage the manual locking hubs, stop the vehicle and rotate both hub lock selector knobs counter-clockwise to the FREE position. ] Operating in 2H with the hubs in the LOCK position increases fuel consumption, noise, vibration, and wear. For prolonged 2H operation on dry pavement, set the manual locking hubs to the FREE position." BY FORD IN 1996 Owner Manual. Except Ford didn't want to mention manual locking hubs. Download a free copy @ https://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandE4OD in park orservice/owner-manuals/
  10. Yo Dameon, Welcome! Here ya go! Code reader or self test stops, try this "Scan Tool Won't Initiate Self-Test Due to Poor Grounds", Corroded Wiring, etc.; read more on how to Ground the STI & Proceed w/ Test;Source: by jermil01If still no codes, see No Codes by Ryan M @https://web.archive.org/web/20161015...om/page44.htmlDwell on items that can be easily tested such as battery voltage, etc. ● FYI; When the ignition switch is ON, it turns the EEC power relay ON. The EEC power relay provides power to the powertrain control module (PCM) . Check the relay, as long as horn can honk, swap horn relay in place of EEC power relay. EEC IV Power Relay is served by Maxi Fuse I (eye) in under hood power distribution box (PDB) . AND Maxi Fuse U serves Ignition Sys, PCM Power Relay Coil. PDB Diagram in a 95 by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) ● Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) Troubleshooting in 92-96; "...because wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown #17 fuse in TSB 92-22-5 for 92 Bronco & all Light Trucks. Had almost the same situation in my 96 a few yrs ago;Fuse #17 blew due to a harness short under steering column that affected the OD Cancel Light (it blinked randomly, no Trouble Codes or tranny malfunctions though); Here is a TSB that deals with it; for a 92 though.. and may apply... even tho year range is off... and your OD sw is in dash and 96's are on end of tranny stalk....but... itsa pure guess on my part..and it's an ez no $ check anyhowz1992 Ford Truck F 150 4WD Pickup V8-351 5.8LVehicle Level Transmission and Drivetrain Technical Service Bulletins Customer Interest Electrical Systems - Multiple MalfunctionsElectrical Systems - Multiple MalfunctionsArticle No. 92-22-5 10/21/92LIGHT TRUCK: 1992 BRONCO, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIESISSUE:The transmission control switch wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown # 17 fuse. The following symptoms may be associated with this concern.Early shifts Loss of power Poor acceleration3-4 shift cyclingTransmission control light cycling ON/OFF or inoperativeTransmission control switch inoperativeRear Anti-Lock Brake System (RABS) electronics (dash lights on, etc.) inoperativeLoss of instrumentation (tach, fuel gauge, etc.)Unable to read Self-Test codes (solid tone only)ACTION:Inspect the transmission control switch wiring for damage and repair or replace as necessary. Refer to the following procedure for service details.1. Remove the steering column cover. Refer to the 1992 Bronco/F-Series Service Manual, Section 11-04B, for the removal procedure.2. Examine the transmission control switch wiring for damage, Figure 1. (I don't have this Figure)3. Repair or replace the wiring as necessary.4. Install the steering column cover. Refer to the 1992 Bronco/F-Series Service Manual, Section 11-04B, for the installation procedure.CAUTION:DURING REASSEMBLY, ROUTE WIRING AWAY FROM ATTACHING SCREW SO AS NOT TO PINCH OR DAMAGE WIRE.OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONEWARRANTY STATUS:Eligible Under Bumper To Bumper Warranty CoverageOPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME922205A Repair Wiring 0.6 Hrs.DEALER CODINGBASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE15A808 X1 ● Was speed control, if equipped recall work completed by dealership? Call local dealer or register and view status @ https://owner.ford.com; or @ https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/ ... have VIN ready."Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."See this guide by jowens1126 to confirm recall status @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ml#post6530073Note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96.Here is the 1995 Bronco Dealer Brochure GL! Al
  11. Yo T, AOD is correct! ● Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19Post Code(s) here according to:KOEO & KOERA helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTSOr ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you. The majority of parts chain stores tests just OBDII vehicles now.Or purchase a coder reader such as;"Innova ODB-1 and we generally recommend getting the extension cord with it, so you can work the ignition key in the cab while watching/holding the reader. It will save the codes but knowing when to go through the cycles and ensuring you get it right the first time can save time and hassle, especially if you're working on it by yourself, as most of us do." by BikerPepe` Following should be verified at a trusted transmission shop or Ford dealership Service department, especially the throttle valve cable adjustment! Mis-adjustment can wreck the transmission internals!!! following in bold for some unknown reason` My AOD works fine in Park, Reverse, and Neutral, and will move forward in OD, D, and Low, but is always in first gear, what could cause this?There are a few common causes for this. The first is a disconnected or missing TV linkage. If the TV linkage is disconnected the transmission should default to full TV pressure which will make the transmission shift as if it were at Wide Open Throttle all the time. It is also possible that the TV valve in the valve body is stuck in the high pressure position. The easiest way to see if this is the case is to perform a TV pressure test as shown on our TV Linkage Adjustment Page. @ https://www.becontrols.com/tvlinkage.shtml If you are using a valve body with some mileage on it there may be enough of a ridge from the original range of travel to cause the TV valve to get stuck when it travels past the ridge.You could also have a stuck governor, or a stuck 1-2 shift valve. If the governor is sticking it will cause a delayed, or no upshift, depending on how bad the condition causing the sticking is. If the 1-2 shift valve is stuck, and will not stroke, the transmission will not shift out of first gear." byBaumann Electronic Controls, LLC ● by Jasper Engines & Transmissions ● See attached AOD INFO. ● 1989 Bronco Brochure @ http://www.lov2xlr8.no/brochures/ford/89bronco.html ● And 1989 Bronco Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM), Shop Manual, Emission Manual, etc by mrnewland1 https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0Bz1eScc6s4raOHd0WlVnMUw4WjQ?usp=drive_web Download it in case it is deleted from the internet. ● GOOD LUCK! Al
  12. Yo B, One possibility is "float needle valve is responsible for regulating the flow of fuel into the float bowl. When the tip of the valve becomes worn or debris prevents the closing of the valve, fuel flows continuously into the bowl thus flooding the engine. Under severe conditions gas may soak the air filter or overflow out of the carburetor and onto the ground while parked. Worn or stuck float valves are very common following prolonged storage or when gasoline has been allowed to sit inside the carburetor and begins to lacquer with age. Another common cause is the use of fuel containing any Ethanol. Many states now include anywhere from 5-15% Ethanol which can be detrimental to certain rubber parts over time. If the fuel in your state or region contains more than 10% Ethanol you may need to replace certain soft parts more often, including the float needle valve and the accelerator pump diaphragm." by CV Performance.
  13. Yo Jake, Welcome! Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19Post Code(s) here according to:KOEO & KOERA helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTSOr ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you. The majority of parts chain stores tests just OBDII vehicles now.Or purchase a coder reader such as;"Innova ODB-1 and we generally recommend getting the extension cord with it, so you can work the ignition key in the cab while watching/holding the reader. It will save the codes but knowing when to go through the cycles and ensuring you get it right the first time can save time and hassle, especially if you're working on it by yourself, as most of us do." by BikerPepe`. See my Vacuum leak test in post of Posted October 9, 2013 @ Air filter, is it relatively clean?Air inlet atop radiator support to filter box and to throttle body; look for obstruction; damaged tubing, openings in tubing, loose fit at throttle body or if equipped, at MAF sensor.Fuel quality; Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. You can check stored gasoline by pouring some into a clear glass container and comparing it side-by-side with known fresh gasoline. If your old sample looks noticeably darker than the fresh gas, you have strong evidence the gas has gone bad.Electrical connectors; inspect for corrosion, etc at coil, firewall, ICM, distributor, PCM, etc. especially those with broken locking tabs. A usual suspect is the Ignition Control Module mounted on driver side inner fender. some parts store may be able to test it, but ask them to test it at least 3 times so it heats up. 94-96 Broncos use BLACK CCD Ignition Module Motorcraft #DY1077. The parts stores and even Ford show incorrect part numbers, so go with DY1077 if it test bad and a related trouble code pops up.
  14. Yo B, Ok, if it doesn't work out find a Local NAPA store tgat has someone who can pull out fittingd cross reference books. You shoukd need to take in adapter, etc. Our NAPA store good guy looked up many parts for our John Deere RX mower ranging from OEM air filter source to switches.
  15. Yo B, I don't have that info, but to assist others, do you have an AOD or C6? Try asking sweet_performance @ https://www.ebay.com/contact/sendmsg?&recipient=sweet_performance&message_type_id=14
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