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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

EvlFaust

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About EvlFaust

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    Bronco Mechanic
  • Birthday 07/14/1983

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    http://www.RottenAppleIndustries.com
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Las Vegas
  1. Hello; I have a 1987 Bronco that did not originally have power windows. When I got the truck the previous owner had swapped out the driver side door and it had a power window regulator. So at first I had power windows on just one side. While going through parts the previous owner had given me I found a motor and regulator for the passenger side. After hooking it up both windows worked perfectly using stock switches the previous owner had given me. The driver side worked like it was new and the passenger side strained a bit like it didn't have too much life left in it. These worked for six months and then after a day of higher speed powerline trail type dirt road off roading the passenger side no longer worked. I had just figured that the rattling and vibration finally put it out of its misery. The driver side worked perfectly fine for a few weeks longer. Come today, I realize the driver side power window no longer works anymore. I have tested all of the individual circuits at both switches along with at both motors. Everything checks out that power is being supplied properly to the motor, along with the proper ground. I disconnected the motors at their harness and used jumper wires to go straight from the battery to the motor, both up and down on both motors. Neither motor responded, telling me that they are definitely dead. What I want to know is if they both, coincidentally, died at the same time just from being that age, or if there is a possibility of something i haven't noticed that may have killed them. Like I said, I checked each individual circuit from the switch and at the motor harness for proper grounding and power with no noticeable problems. Thanks!
  2. Hello; My 1987 Bronco's 351w has a pretty substantial blowby issue. I'm getting pretty irritated with the amount of condensation and oil coming out of breather. I understand that it needs a ring job, but that isn't realistic at the moment. I live in Las Vegas so temperature ranges from moderate to high. I am wondering what weight oil would be recommended to help with the blowby until I am able to do a rebuild. Thanks!
  3. Well... I finally found the problem. After cleaning up some of the caked on dirt from the ages I found that all of the wires that went into the harness connector, just before the wiring dropped down to the frame rail, had pulled back their insulation and started crosswiring. Fixed it all and finally have all my gauges and lights up and working again. Thanks for the help.
  4. Thanks for the wiring diagrams. Between the diagrams and searching other topics in the forum I was able to get all of my gauges to work, except one. Seems that It was the pigtails on the alternator that was causing the fuse to blow to knock out all of the gauges. Everything is working except the fuel gauge, and I have hit a wall chasing that problem. It seems that at some point the previous owner had an alarm of some sort installed as I have found multiple wires under the dash T tapped, mainly the lights and various power wires. Looks like the Yellow/White sender wire for the fuel gauge was T tapped by mistake and just left. Time proved to cause the wire to break at the T tap so I started with the fuel gauge pinning past full. After some time searching I found the break and repaired it to now have it pin past empty. The weird part now, at least for me, is that the gauge stays pinned past empty until I hit the brakes, causing the gauge to then swing past full. Also the gauge will bounce up and past full if right turn signal is turned on (but not the left), as well as the hazards. I have been chasing wires under the dash and have followed what I can see of the sender wires back to the tank. At the moment I have had to take a step back to keep my sanity and wanted to see if anyone had any ideas on where to resume looking. Thanks.
  5. Hello; I recently purchased a 1987 Bronco with a 351w run on a 4bbl carb. I am learning that it was an odd year in the series seeing that it was stock with a 4bbl carb. With that said, I am having an extremely hard time locating a wiring diagram for the Bronc. I am having an issue that all the gauges will lose power after the fuse blows anytime a decent bump is hit. I know there is a short somewhere and need to start tracing wires. Would love to have a wiring diagram to help out if anyone can link one up for me. Thanks!
  6. Hello; Buddy of mine has a 302 that has been stroked to 347 that is mine if I want it. I would like to drop it in my 1995 Bronco but would like to know if the computer has to be modded at all? Also anything else I might need to consider would be helpful. Thanks!
  7. Howdy; The 302 in my 1995 Bronco currently runs to get me from here to there, but is definitly limping at times. My buddy has a 302 block out of an 83 Mustang (casting #E0AE D3C 3J16) that I would like to use to build up using a set of heads that I got off of a 302 out of a 96 Bronco (don't have the casting number available at the moment). I wanted to know if there is any variation in the 302 block from year to year, mainly wanting to make sure that the block out of the Mustang will work as a rebuild for my Bronco. I want to have the engine rebuilt and ready to go so that all I have to do is swap the intake and accessories off my current engine and drop it in. Thanks.
  8. Sure enough it was the starter. It doesn't seem that any of the wires shorted out, but the starter itself just crapped out. Put in a new one, checked the wiring and its good as gold. Thanks for all the help!
  9. Wow! Seriously, you have no idea how much this has helped! It did smell like an electrical fire from underneath AND I just put a new starter in about 3 weeks ago. That will be the first thing I check when I get it home tomorrow. Thanks for the info!!!
  10. This morning when arriving to work my 1995 Bronco 5.0 decided that it didn't want to shut down. I parked, turned the key off and the engine started dieseling pretty hard. It was making an odd sound high pitched sound and i wasn't able to get it to stop until i put it in gear and then shut down (even then it made quite a noble attempt to continue dieseling). After it finally stopped i had quite a bit of smoke coming from under the hood. After work I took a quick look under the hood and vehicle and didn't notice any fluids that could have caused the smoke. At the moment i can not start the vehicle (can hear the starter solenoid click but it isn't turning the engine over) and will have the vehicle towed back to my place come wednesday. Any advice will help. Thanks.
  11. Howdy; I need a bit of help finding tie rod flip inserts and a reamer tool. I have scoured the net but can not find anything so far. I am putting a 5.5" suspension lift on my 95 Bronco that already has 4.5" in the rear from a shackle flip and 2" up front from a leveling kit. I would like to get a Superlift Steering System but the combined 7.5" goes beyond it's limit. I figure that a tie rod flip would remedy that problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  12. Thanks for the info Miesk. The tests done were KOEO because it is hard to get it reliably running for KOER tests. We will be checking on the Hall Effect in the distributor to see if that may be an issue. Bronco410w, it's not surging. Bassically it either runs or it doesn't. Usually it will start up and then just cut out and die after a few mins (if that).
  13. Hey there; I just recently took a look at my buddies 1990 5.0 Mustang since he has been having trouble with it. I guess it has been down for the last few months with it intermittently stalling out on him. It is a completely random event where it may run perfectly fine for a while 1-2 hours and stall out, or it will not even start. Here is a list of what he has already replaced. Computer Ignition control module Plugs Wires Coil Fuel Pump General tune up (oil, filters, etc) O2 Sensor He has also checked the fuel pressure on the rail and it is reading at 35psi which is within spec according to Chilton. All fuses and electrical connections have been checked out. Scan tool has been used to check for any codes that may lead to an answer. I took a quick look at his Stang and with everything that has been replaced already I am at a loss. All I can think is that there may be an issue with the injectors. The day we looked at it everything ran fine for about 10 min and from then on was problematic (sometimes starting and running for seconds to minutes and sometimes not starting at all). Any ideas?
  14. Howdy; I am currently looking for a set of used heads for the 302 in my 1995 Bronco. Once I find a set I plan on taking them down to a machine shop to have them worked over. If I am just looking for a clean set of good working heads what services should I have done while it is in the machine shop? Also what would be estimated cost of each service? Thanks
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