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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size


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About Justshootme84

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    Supreme Commander
  • Birthday 07/05/1963

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    Palacios, TX
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    4wd trucks, hunting, fishing, music

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  1. Rest in Peace Randy, my friend.

    Randy helped many here in the Zone and at https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/index.php

    He never hesitated to assist others with their Bronco issues.

    Randy is Sadly Missed, but Never Forgotten.


  2. Yes, you can inspect the tranny/ t-case mount and/or bushings for wear. The double-bushing style on my 84 Bronco with the NP208 is pradtically obsolete, but i do have pics of the mod I did using 79 Bronco t-case bushings. Ford calls these isolators instead of rubber bushings. This style is only for the NP208/ C-6 auto combo, so your 3-sp manaul may have a single tranny/ t-case mount. JSM84
  3. That's fairly close to my 84's original two-tone, except the medium Ford blue was paired with the dark or indigo blue. To separate the colors, you might consider a thin stripe of that gray about 1-4"-1/2" from the break, inside the lighter blue. If I can find a pic of my hood, I'll post it up, JSM84 http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/74416/fullsize/thwbronco14.jpg The factory two-tone had a chrome trim piece on the fenders, but a doublepinstripe of lighter blue on the top portion where the colors met.
  4. The 89-96 Broncos used the E40D auto tranny, so your 94 would have that model. JSM84
  5. Check out Miesk5's Homepage of Bronco links for info on that lower-front shock stud. It's pressed in from the back side, and not easily replaced as stated. If you are able to weld, a better design is to replace the single stud with a standard rear shock mount lower breacket for more support. If I find some thing in more detail, I'll post it up, JSM84 http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17765 The main idea is to box in the lower mount to accept a bolt thru two sides instead of a sinlge stud.
  6. For your Early Bronco, the "B8" codes out to a 3.50:1 ratio rearend with factory L/S. The "Q" is most likely a factory front L/S with the power steering option as well. JSM84
  7. Mike is correct i nthat you should not need to use a slide hammer to pull out the axleshafts, as it's only needed to remove the bearing races from the axle housing/ tube. In some cases, however, it will feel like the axle is stuck and will not come out, either due to a frozen bearing, damaged splines, or some other problem. It may take a bit of force to pull the axleshaft free in that case, or if the axleshaft doesn't easily slide out. I've seen guys bolt the drum back onto the end of the shaft to get more leverage and pulling power if you need it. If you do have to replace the bearing and/ or outer seal, it's best to take it to a shop with a 20-ton press to remove & install these parts. You can rent a slide hammer for no cost at AutoZone or most parts stores to pull the race out. Just leave a deposit with your credit card, and that is refunded when you return the tools. You will need a bearing race install set, or the appropriate-sized pipe to drive in the race to the proper depth. Hopefully, the race doesn't just fall out on it's own or the new one is too small and fits loosely. IF so, you have a bigger problem of a wornout axle tube from excessive bearing/race wear. You might check out Miesk5's Homepage of Bronco Links, as he has alot of good info on the Ford 9" repair. JSM84
  8. There was a factory option for an inside spare tire carrier, which was bolted to the passngr-side rear quarter panel inside behind the wheelwell. You may be able to find the inside mount from a used one, usually for about $50. IT doesn't allow for much of any size tire over stock though. If you remove the rear seat or even just fold it up & forward, the center floor latch is a good spot to anchor down a spare tire and wheel laid down flat in back. idid this on the 84 Bronco after taking off the outside carrier to get the Bronco painted, and also chain the spare to the floor on the 78 Bronco. JSM84
  9. The Ford F-150 and Bronco series 8.8" axles use standard 31-spline axle shafts. In my experience, the Lock-Right is not as strong as the Trac-Lok, but they do claim install can be done in about an hour. If you have already 'grenaded' a factory Trac-Lok while rock crawling, then you prolly need the TrueTrac or Detroit Locker. Most of the problems I've run into with the factory L/S has been due to worn clutches, or a few trips down the drag strip. JSM84
  10. I agree with Seabronc, as a fully-locked rear or even a locker such as the Detroit can have trouble turning on pavement and can be scary on snow or ice. The TrueTrac is a gear-driven limited slip (L/S), and will cost about $440-$450. I prefer it over the factory L/S Dana Trac-Lok, which will only cost about $300 from BG. If you do more than 50% driving offroad, I would lean toward the TrueTrac. But if you drive more often on the street, the normal Trac-Lok would be a better choice, even though it's not quite as strong. JSM84
  11. ogre, that's asweet-looking rig!!! sniper, you will likely get slight rub on the radius arms with 33's -35's when turning full lock, even with a kit with extended radius arms that are 'bent' inward. Whther or not you get rub on the fenders or front bumper will depend alot on the actual size of tire and rim combo you go with, along with the actual lift height of the lift kit. Even with a 6" Skyjacker Class II lift kit on my 84 Bronco, I still had tire rub on the forward edge of the rear quarter panels. I ended up installing a 1" block under the rear springs to solve that. The same kit was installed on another 84 Bronco after I sold it and the axles, and the new owner was able to run 37" Iroc's. There is considerable differenc in clearance among the 80-96 year models, too, but almost any brand of lift kit will work fine with 33" tall tires. If you list the year model of your bronco and the brand of kit you're interested in, that will help a ton. JSM84
  12. I would also agree to go with 4.56:1 gears for 35" tires. That was the setup I had on the 84 Bronco for some time. My 78 Bronco has 4.88:1 gears with 38" tall tires, and the 4-sp manual NP-435. One thing I would look into if you plan to rebuild the axles for 35" tires or larger is to consider an upgrade to chromoly axleshafts for the Dana44 front. I've broken a few stock shafts and u-joints with the 38's , and even on the 79 F-150 with 35's, just crawling around slowly offroad or loading onto the trailer. JSM84
  13. Welcome to Bronco Zone!!! The seal itself is cheap ( <$10 ) but the labor to drop the transmission will run about $400. The E40D auto trnnay in that Bronco can cost close to $2800-$3000 to have a shop rebuild and re-install it. Good Luck, JSM84
  14. Welcome to bronco Zone, and thanks as well for your service!!! While the Dana60 SAS on my 84 Bronco uses the leaf springs in front and rear, I did plenty of searching on 4 links and such. You can install a triangulated 4-link and coilsprings or coilover shocks in the rear, but I would suggest doinga 3-link on the front D60. A really good option I considered was using the Cage offroad arms, along with an adjustable tracbar. I decided that while I may do that at some point in the future, I wanted to first get the 1-ton axles under the Bronco and get her running on some trails. I also had some interference issues with the frame outriggers for my rollcage and modified tranny crossmember. These issues are something to address with any type of SAS (Straight Axle Swap), as things quickly become cluttered underneath the frame rails. The leafspring setup was far more simpler to install as well. The parts list for DOM tubing, Heim joints and mounts was a bit over $2200, but that was five years ago. I would suspect these parts to run about $4000 now, excluding the donor axles. I'm not even sure is Cage is still in business? one of the best websites I've found for serious suspension mods is Pirate4x4.com for all types of offroad rigs. You can also check out the extensive SAS forum section over at Fullsizebronco.com, which has many members with SAS'd Bronco's. You may also look up Miesk5's Homepage of Bronco Links and visit the suspension sections. JSM84
  15. If you are planning to install 2" leveling coils in the frontend, then you will likely need new, adjustable camber bushings. There is a sticky or pinned topic on page 1 of the 80-96 forum thaqt explains the geometry of the bronco TTB frontend and the problems with lifting kits. you will need new shocks designed for a 0-2" lift kit, and I would recommend one of the better offroad brands such as Rancho, Explorer Pro Comp, Superlift or Skyjacker over any of the cheapies from the local parts store. You will also need a new frontend alignment after installing the leveling coils, so try to find a shop that has knowledge of the Ford Bronco suspension, JSM84
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