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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Whipsaw

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About Whipsaw

  • Rank
    Duck Tape L'fixer :)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    In the process of an incremental restoration of my Dad's '93 Bronco, 5.8L.

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Bronco Year?
    1993
  1. This thread helped me get my 1993 Bronco, 5.8L V8 up and running. It stopped running, I swapped the horn and fuel pump relay, and it ran, once. Then no start... after another month and time to troubleshoot, no power to the fuel pump (no 1-2 seconds with ignition key to 'on'). I cleaned the grounds behind the left rear tail light and by the inertia switch in the passenger kick panel. Checked voltages, 12V at the 20A fuse and at the relay, then no voltage from the PCM to close the relay. Came up to research and you mentioned above to swap the horn and PCM relay, which I did, and boom, heard the pump spin up and she started! Will be replacing more relays... Thanks again!
  2. The DieselHub site page for BorgWarner BW1356 Transfer Case maintenance ( http://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/bw1356-fluid.html ) calls for MERCON synthetic ATF, 2 quarts, to fill the transfer case when changing the fluid. As fluids have improved and changed, what is the recommended fluid for this application?
  3. Thanks! The Coil Spring Insulators are probably a good call, the ones in there are likely original and at best tired. I've been checking out some videos on the ball joint replacement, pretty much have to take the whole side of the front end down to parade rest and build it back up again to put them in. The video below is pretty good, though if I were this guy, I would have hosed all the mud out the vehicle before starting out. Mine isn't that dirty, but rust is an issue. Have been wire brushing and spraying with PB blaster for a few weeks now as I've been painting the frame. Will need to gather a few more items (bushings, the insulators, a ball joint press, maybe bearings? Hell, U-joints for the axle even... with the work involved to get to the ball joints, might as well). Its going to be a little while longer before I get to this.
  4. I've pulled together the parts to replace the quad shocks with Monroe Gas-Magnums and the springs with Moog OEM, the existing parts look to be original. I'm working to paint the frame (remove rust w/wire wheels, treat w/ospho, brush on Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and Rustoleum flat black top coat). I would like to disassemble to where I can paint the frame components (i.e. the shock mounts, swing arms, etc) as the previous paint has all peeled and the frame is rusting. Are there diagrams and torque specs available? Related issue, when driving and coming to a stop I can feel a mild 'thud' in the left front as though something is sliding forward when coming to a stop, any likely suspects to look at while I break it down? Anything else to get at while I'm in there?. I do have new Moog ball joints to replace the existing, though not sure I want to take that on. Appreciate all help and advice.
  5. Just a quick update, the Bronco is running like a champ! It has been interesting to note the performance improvements as I drove it after the new computer was installed. I replaced all the stock speakers (at least one was blown) with a new set, sounds great. I ran the code scanner, the only code it threw was the 'you forgot to hit the gas for the dynamic test' code. Not too shabby! No other progress due to weather and time constraints, though I do have new spark plugs on hand for when the opportunity presents itself.
  6. I'm back, I go by Ray... Yesterday I checked the resistances on as many of the sensors that I could (ECT, ACT, EVP; the Idle Air Control Valve was full of gunk, so I replaced that; checked for grounds using the break out box (I guess shop manuals are needed to get them most out of it, next on my list)). I decided to exchange the HEGO this morning, extracted that (threads stripped bad) and it was covered with soot. I exchanged that, and picked up an O2 Sensor thread chaser to re-tap the mounting hole. After chasing the threads, the new HEGO screwed right in. I had the old battery out so I pulled the battery tray, painted it with a galvanize type paint and replaced the body clips that held it in (they rusted through). Installed a new 850 CCA battery. Then I pulled all the break out box cables out, tried the old PCM once more (still with the CEL and the fuel pump on constant). Disconnected the battery, pulled the old PCM and replaced it with the Blue Streak reman (interesting... Canadian company, the PCM came from Mexico). Buttoned it up, connected the battery... crossed my fingers... and it fired right up! I let it warm up and the CEL light didn't come on. Drove it, runs smooth, shifts nice; pulled in the driveway, shut it down, restarted it. Shut it down again and let it cool off, then drove it again later. I think its a full up round. Need to run the code scanner in the next few days to see if anything shady is going on behind the scenes. Thanks for all the excellent gouge, I found myself thinking through the operating modes as I was driving... Still some other projects to hit: - When I pulled the ACT sensor, it was covered in black gunk, so the intake manifold needs cleaning (any suggestions? Thinking Gumout spray or SeaFoam, would rather not pull it if I can help it). Assuming that is from the PCV, is that abnormal? - The 4WD won't engage, press the button on the dash and nothing happens. - Need to treat and paint pretty much the entire underside, its rusting. - The rear defogger only has only one line that heats up, need to get the paint kit and fix that. - Spark plugs are due.
  7. When my '93 left me at work with no spark, turned out the PIP in the distributor had gone bad. I didn't have time to tear down the distributor, so I had to replace the whole thing.
  8. Check to see that the bumper is correctly aligned, if it is too far in towards the body, the tire may rub in a turn. Same thing in my Explorer, when backing up and turning the wheel, body shop didn't reinstall it correctly when having some work done after a fender bender.
  9. Check to make sure there isn't a wire pinched under the valve cover. That happened to me when I had a set of heads installed.
  10. This is awesome,thanks! I'll go through this. I've gotten the engine compartment grounds, and the one on the rt side frame rail. I have a new MAP, will likely return the O2 sensor tomorrow as the problems somewhat correlate to its install. You talked about not going into closed loop, would the same cause it to go into 'limp home mode'? Of what I've been able to find, its caused by the pcm getting an out of spec value from a sensor. Unable to determine what senors might be the likely culprits.
  11. Hi Everyone, I've been visiting this site for a year or two now. I had what I think was a multiple failure with my Bronco (1993, 5.8L, E4OD, VIN 1FMEU1543PLA48028, PCM F2TF-12A650-CC). One day, leaving work, it wouldn't start. There was no spark, traced it to the hall effect sensor in the dizzy; replaced the dizzy... installed a new coil and TFI module while I was at it. Got spark, still no start, then I found on this site that the fuel pump running with the key on is bad. Had it towed home. Sure enough, the PCM capacitors were shot. I had them replaced at the local TV repair shop It then started and ran, but would go into limp home mode when it finally warmed up (open loop to closed loop, I think?!). After a week or so of driving it, having it regularly fail into limp home mode, replacing what I though were associated sensors (ACT, ECT), cleaned all the grounds I could find... finally I got a code scanner, which passed with no faults (???), still the problem ensued. Finally, the PCM quit with the fuel pump running key on again. I got a breakout box, have been checking for other issues (I replaced the Idle Air Control Valve this morning...), running through the Haynes manual checks... (A friend thinks it could be the HEGO, which is only a few months old). I'm about to install the new PCM, but want to be sure I check all the circuits so that it doesn't fry too. I'm thinking I should disconnect the old PCM from the harness and look for grounds. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
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