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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Rusty shackleford

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About Rusty shackleford

  • Rank
    Bronco Mechanic
  • Birthday 07/09/1985

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • Interests
    Racing, off-roading, BBQ, Nolan Ryan, dove season, '92 oilers

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?

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  1. Rusty shackleford

    How to read bolt heads

  2. Rusty shackleford

    Hardware plating question

    Been looking for a plating company that can plate an entire frame with electroless black nickel. I think that kinda gives a good idea of what kinda build I’m working on. I’m really ocd and detail oriented and before I take any step, I have to learn every facet of that decision on every level down to information usually reserved for engineers. This is my first time doing something like this and I feel like everything I’m doing is a huge extravagant mistake but I’m having fun between the meltdowns of wanting to give up and claw my eyes out, it’s actially kinda funny cause I’m not putting a single dollar into the body except the undercarriage and inside of the body panels that I’m sanding/coating
  3. Rusty shackleford

    Hardware plating question

    Haven’t decided what the trucks gonna be used for quite yet, I’ve been doing a lot of grinding and sanding with wire cups, grinding discs, and detail sander, I’m almost ready to paint the undercarriage and return most of the rust converter I purchased. Right now I’m removing all the hardware and replacing it all with domestically manufactured yellow zinc grade8 hardware and ARP fasteners and getting a lot of parts plated with electro-less nickel but I’m about to start doing the rest in black nickel cause it’s starting to get too shiny under there and I don’t want it to end up looking like a low rider. Next it’s going to the mechanic to replace entire braking system, fuel system, power steering, rcv axles for the d44 up front, still haven’t decided what to do with the rear axle which is currently a ford 9”. Been thinking about building a dart sbf iron eagle but it starting to seem like a bad idea, even started considering the jon kaase boss 9 but seems like a 408 stroker would be the best bet. Then after I decide on the engine I’m gonna get painless wiring and all the front end top end stuff. Then get custom headers and exhaust, then ship all that to Jet-Hot for coating. While it’s at the mechanic I’m sending the np-435 and Dana-20 to get rebuilt, I’ve considered changing the tranny/transfer combo but Ive heard bad things about the nv4500 and still doing homework pairing an np435 with the atlas options. Then it’s going to the fab shop for suspension, heim steer, roll cage(welded to frame), custom bumpers and possible crawlers edge or throttle down frame swap if it makes sense but I really don’t know what I’m doing. I guess at the end of the day I just wanna take it out to the deer lease in the Texas Hill country and moderate mudding in east Texas swamps and towing around a 15 ft John boat but I’m having the suspension built by a Baja racing/pre runner fab shop in southern California. I’m kinda just doing everything and gonna just see what happens, regardless, the result should be unique/interesting
  4. Rusty shackleford

    Hardware plating question

    That rod end has an internally greased ball that swivels but the plating process stripped the grease and damaged the nyloc
  5. Rusty shackleford

    Hardware plating question

    SORry forgot to attach the weld pic, nevermind file too big to upload, its about three holes in the weld the size of a small paper clip tip to fit in, its in the rear caliper mounting bracket where the Protruding threading is welded into the substrate
  6. Rusty shackleford

    Hardware plating question

    Got some self lubricating rod ends nickel plated and now it’s no longer greased and difficult to manipulate tho not impossible, also some of my bolt threads are rusted from being dipped in acid prior to plating, each bolt only has one rusted thread(at the point where the wire it was hung by wrapped around the thread) could that one rusted thread cause the bolt to fail, this hardware is for suspension/shock hoops, shouldi just get new hardware? It also discolored and hardened the nyloc on some of the nyloc nuts Also anyone have any input on the porosity in this weld? Would it compromise the welds integrity?
  7. Rusty shackleford

    Zinc plating

    Electro plating, Im also planning on electroplating all my suspension hardware/steering tubes prior to install but am worried about diameter changes and wether the nuts and bolts will fit right after the plating, also does the process add any significant weight to the substrate? Also want to plate the Sherman tank from Wild Horses but it's already painted, can you electroplate over paint or would I need to sand it first, is the tank even worth plating
  8. Rusty shackleford

    Zinc plating

    Just got turned on to zinc plating and starting to get a little carried away. Basically I'm wondering how far can I go with this, I'm doing all my hardware and stuff like that but I was wondering if I can plate my fuel tanks, heim steering tubes, floor boards, cross-members, exhaust, etc. Are there better coatings for different applications like nickle or chrome. I really like the look of yellow zinc. Does it have a high enough heat tolerance for automotive applications like exhaust?
  9. Rusty shackleford

    Frame on rust repair

    Whoa that east wood site helped a lot, thanks
  10. Rusty shackleford

    Frame on rust repair

    Should I apply paint or some type of spray on bedliner or undercarriage coating, I don't want it to look too textured, any product recommendations?
  11. Rusty shackleford

    Frame on rust repair

    How long after applying primer do I have before I need to apply paint
  12. Rusty shackleford

    Frame on rust repair

    So my body has a decent amount of surface rust on the inside of the panels, frame has some too. My current plan is to sand it till I see clean metal, and clean it with metal prep, but I don't wanna prime it myself for fear of doing a sloppy job and the coat not looking uniform, is it ok to just get it to bare metal, clean it and leave it, or does the exposure to the atmosphere immediately begin oxidizing the surface. My method is gonna go as follows: Degrease frame, axle housing, drivetrain component housings, t-case, drive shaft, etc Then clean off degreaser with dawn/water, then rinse that off with boiling water and rags Then wipe it dry and start sanding frame/body, maybe some loctite naval jelly (not sure what this can offer that elbow grease and sanding blocks can't) sand down to clean metal, clean with metal prep, then I'd like to just leave it as is but I've been told it starts oxidizing immediately once the bare metal is exposed to the atmosphere(even indoor garage) ?) I'm nervous about priming it myself cause I don't wanna remove brake/fuel lines etc but I don't want it to look sloppy, I also don't wanna use aerosol primer cause I dont trust my capabilities to spray the coat evenly, is there a good brush on primer y'all recommend that has a nice looking finish for undercarriage or should I just tape off all parts I don't wanna get overspray on and just spray away with aeresol primer
  13. Rusty shackleford

    Aluminum vs iron block

    Or should I just put this thing on my existing iron block and get some pulleys and call it a day, this is pretty new to me and theres so much to learn and I can't stop thinking about it, trying to learn everything myself and order parts so I can make her pretty and loud just to keep her in the garage to look at and wax on the weekends, I think I had too much coffee this morning lol people ask me what type of use are you going to be using this rig for and I say bunch of romantic fantasy type stuff like towing a bulldozer out of a swamp but in reality I'll probably just drain all the fluids and hang out with her in the garage drinking Budweiser listening to Keith Whitley testing out fancy imported paint glaze and wax products or I'll just sell her to the next sucker and get back on the lake and terrorize some bass
  14. Rusty shackleford

    Aluminum vs iron block

    I know there's tons of literature out there on this subject, just wondering what some of y'all think. Shopping for a block to build and there's just too many options. Hoping some experience can point me in the right direction. Iron/aluminum block Hydraulic/mechanical roller/tappet combo There's a voice in my conscience saying go iron block with hydraulic roller camshaft but then there's this idiot saying aluminum block with mechanical roller camshaft Not building this for street, but don't want high maintenance constant valve adjustments etc I imagine myself driving it on the street sometimes but speed limited to 55-60 mph topspeed and having to pullover and cut the engine if I encounter traffic
  15. Rusty shackleford

    Diff cover clearance

    yeah I'll just contact Arb, but I really wanted to drive it around this weekend and show off my red diff cover