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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size


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About MaineBroncoBeast

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    It's Only Money, Right?

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?
  1. Thank you SeaBronc, I checked fuel pressure and no problem. Only thing left to check was accelerator pump and after a small adjustment I finally could rev the engine without bogging down. Now I can step on it and it’s right there. First on race day! about the mixture screws, they are not accessible and it’s impossible to do the quarter turn sequence. I’ve tried it many times and even have the flexible adjustment tool and bought new mixture screws too. That is why I asked for your best old school starting point. I don’t mind removing the carb and making adjustments but it’s difficult to access if it’s getting better with the vacuum gauge making a small change every time. I did build a new house last year and used the bronco to haul everything up to my mountain retreat on a half mile drive way one way.
  2. 351W 4V HO 4180C carb Having a problem with the Bronco. When I press the gas pedal, it the carb bogs down. Can’t drive down the road without pumping the pedal to keep moving. It does start and idle okay. Has new cats, dist, rotor, wires, plugs. The carb is a rebuild from RockAuto. I put on a manual choke. Timing set at 10 bdtc. Vacuum at 19 in. New crate engine last year. I have adjusted the idle mixture screws to 2.5 turns (2front 2back). I would like the grand masters to advice me on the number of turns for both front and back screws. I will be checking the fuel pressure. I have already replaced fuel filter. I haven’t touched the accelerator pump. This vehicle has no obd connector or any way to get codes. Any advice appreciated. Thank you.
  3. Great, that's what I will do. I ordered the o2 sensor from rockauto. Thank you Miesk5
  4. Thank you... I didn't believe there were any o2 sensors and needed verification. I replaced my exhaust manifolds when I did a complete rebuild. The driver side manifold has a bung on each cylinder with a plug installed. I was wondering if the o2 sensor would work properly installed in the last one before the exhaust goes down the side pipe? Thank you for sharing your knowledge, David
  5. 1984 Bronco XLT 351W 4V H.O. I'd like to wire up an air-fuel ratio gauge. To do that, I need to find the O2 sensor location to read the signal. I have 12v key-on fused source and ground connections. This truck uses Duraspark Ignition control module with blue tab. I've checked the manifolds and down pipes but none are installed. This truck has stock emissions including air pump and bpv. Not sure if an O2 sensor is in with that or not. Can someone please fill me in on the easiest way to connect the gauge. It is the HOTSYSTEM New Auto Car 2" 52mm Digital Color Analog LED Air/Fuel Ratio Monitor Gauge. Thank you.
  6. Hey SeaBronco... you've seen my new engine, I made the combined diagram for emissions you posted. Nothing is wrong, just wanted to read the codes and fix anything that may have been found. As I said, everyone said there should be a 6-sided connector but heck if mine did and I had it stripped down to the frame. I just wanted someone to confirm if there actually was an obd connector or not in this year. I found the ford list yesterday that confirmed no obd connector and now you have confirmed it also. My Bronco has "H" in the serial indicating 1985 build. The engine runs and sounds great. The truck is back on the mountain. Now I have a code reader I can't use. LOL, it's from Amazon so I can return it. Thanx for helping me solve this mystery.
  7. I still haven't found the 6-sided connector that most trucks have and I had the entire front end stripped down to the frame and firewall this summer when I put in a new engine. I know every connector that's in the engine compartment and I have never seen the obd connector. I've looked under the dash but nothing obvious. I have a Chiltons but no info. I've searched google and 1984 is a year that seems to be missing. Does anyone know for sure what obd test connector is used, what it looks like, and where it is for the 1984 Bronco? Updated edit: I found this from ford.... It seems my truck does not have an OBD test connector. Ford vehicles without self-diagnostic capability 1982 and earlier Any with EEC-I or EEC-II. The scan tool can test 1980 and later EEC-III, EEC-IV, and MCU systems with test connectors. 1982–83 3.3L, 6-cylinder carbureted engine (VIN code B for 1982; X for 1983). 1983–85 1.6L, 4-cylinder carbureted Escort, Lynx, EXP, and LN7 (VIN codes 2 and 4). 1986 1.9L, 4-cylinder carbureted Escort and Lynx (VIN code 9). 1983–84 3.8L, V6 carbureted engine (VIN code 3 & C). 1983–85 5.0L, V8 carbureted HO engine in Mustangs only (VIN codes F, 1983; M, 1984). Has a self-test connector, but no tests are available. 1983–87 5.8L, V8 carbureted truck engines (VIN codes G for 1983–85; H for 1985–87). 1981–87 7.5L, V8 carbureted truck engine (VIN code L). 1989–95 7.3L, V8 Diesel (non-Powerstroke). scan tool tests automatic transmission only.
  8. It's a 4180C 4bbl carb. I have the manual already and have looked for the connector already. My Bronco has "H" in serial and it doesn't show in the manual. I may need someone with the same year vehicle to give me the scoop. The manual kinda skips over and around 1984.
  9. 1984 Ford Bronco XLT 5.8L 351W 4V H.O. Is there a diagnostic OBD test connector for this truck? I have a Innova 3145 Ford Digital code reader. I've done some looking around but I can't locate it. So, my questions are... Is there a diagnostic test port? If so, where is it and what's it look like? If no diagnostic test port, is there a way to read trouble codes? Thank you
  10. Well I got to the bottom of and it starts like it's supposed. First I figured out that the 351W H.O. requires a high torque starter and Napa indicated it was a 10-tooth high torque starter. 1. I bought a 3/32" 2-bolt ford shim. 2. I bought the 10-tooth high torque starter from Napa. 3. I mounted the shim with the starter bolts and saw that the shield between the engine and bell housing was off center pushing the starter up and in toward the flexplate. Same with the bolt holes. I took my chain saw file and opened up the shield starter and bolt holes to be even with the shim. 4. I bought a yellow tab ignition module. No more slamming or excessive loud cranking. I will keep the shim because the starter works well with it. If it had been missing the flexplate teeth I would have taken it out. Opening up the shield to match the shim ID was a good idea and the 10-tooth high torque starter starts it very quick. The yellow tab ignition module is probably not needed as I detect the starter still spinning after the engine starts. I'm very happy to have solved this problem.
  11. Thank you for the replies. I did install a 3/32 ford shim and I didn't notice as much initial slamming but is still sounds pretty loud when it cranks over. Kenh... that was a great thread. I think it may be my problem. I've replaced the ignition module a few times and it hasn't started right since then. That fellow went through every hoop and then some but the final solution of the module retarding the timing causing the late start condition makes perfect sense. I have the blue stamped modules. Rockauto has the yellow connector ignition modules for my vehicle for $14. I ordered it to arrive tuesday. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
  12. I looked at the catalog but it was just basic info. I'll call them tomorrow. This is a new re-manufactured 351W with zero miles, new harmonic balancer. The offset is 5/8" from starter mount to flexplate. I've included photos of the teeth. The offset should be 3/4". So it looks like I need to shim 1/8" of an inch? I never needed shims before and I didn't inspect the last good fitting starter before returning it as a core. I've looked up the high torque starters and it seems they are 10 tooth. Is that right? The starter I have is 9 tooth. I'm wondering if my problem is the wrong number of teeth or I have the correct number of teeth but it needs to be shimmed. I just checked my local advanced auto and they have 3/32" 2-bolt ford shims for $6. I'll pick one up in the morning and install it then I'll let you know how it went. Thank you.
  13. Since this is a High Output 351W, I've read that it requires a high torque starter. Is this the 10-tooth starter? I remember having good results with my local napa and I just called them and they have a standard 9-tooth and an alternate 10-tooth starter for this year. Perhaps I replaced the 10-tooth starter from napa with a 9-tooth starter from advanced auto parts which only showed a 9-tooth starter in their database?
  14. 1984 Ford Bronco XLT 5.8L 351 Windsor. I'm at the end of my rebuild. I replaced the automatic transmission because the driver side bell housing bolts and guide pin had been cracked and alignment would be out causing the flexplate to warp and fracture and could cause other damage to the engine. Now I've just filled the tranny and started the engine for the first time with the new tranny (new to me). The starter engaging the flexplate sounds off to me. It sounds too loud when it cranks and sounds like it slams into the flexplate teeth prior to cranking. I've gone through 2 flexplates with the old engine and tranny and 2 or 3 starters. Maybe it's coincidence, but after installing the last starter in the old engine/tranny, it also seemed to slam and crank hard followed soon after with the shearing of the flexplate. I seem to remember not hearing the starter strain like that before. I'm wondering if a shim is required? It didn't have any when I got the truck but that doesn't mean I don't need them. I bought the last few starters from advanced auto parts. I'd appreciate any thoughts on cause and effect... I could be missing something. If I do require shims, where can I get them or how can I fab them. Thank you.
  15. No need... thanx for the tips. The used transmission I bought came with a few surprises. The pan was dented in many places up to the filter, the exterior shift lever was badly bent in 2 directions, and it wasn't shifting through the gears properly. I contacted the seller and he was very sorry and willing to pay for a tranny shop to fix it. I said I'd fix it. I removed the pan and took down the pump plate and inspected the internal shifting lever and parts. The rooster (cam for gears) was also badly bent in 2 directions as was the internal kickdown lever. The rest of the internals were clean as a whistle, no metal shavings or anything. I took the pan and shifting parts off my old trans and repaired the new one and filled it with fluid. I tested the trans but it acted like it only wanted to go in reverse. I had moved the manual valve when I repaired the shift parts and did not know to make sure it lined up on the shift lever point when putting it back together. So I drained it and fixed it and the transmission worked great ! But that's not the best part... After I fixed the transmission I called the ebay seller to settle up. I was very nice and patient over the entire time and I didn't make any claim against the seller on ebay who has a 100% positive feedback on 90 transactions. As a result, I asked for $300 back on the transaction to cover the parts and my labor. They immediately sent me $300 on paypal. I paid $174 for the transmission because I remained calm and figured it out and did the work myself while knowing I would be fairly compensated. Make lemonade out of lemons, catch more bees with honey. I'm driving my new 1984 Bronco XLT on the road for the first time to vote today. It sounds and runs amazing and the ride is great with all new radiator and body mounts.
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