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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

fordblood

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About fordblood

  • Rank
    Bronco Mechanic

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    Male

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?
    1986
  1. heres an update. I got a dana 50 center section from a junkyard in oregon. they pulled it and shipped it out of a truck that i saw the odometer and a picture of the vehicle before buying the part. cost $200 shipped. came with 4.10 gears and the stub and slip shaft. Ive been using it for about 4 months and its is doing awesome!
  2. Put a battery in it and try again. Jumper cables are to small of a gauge to handle the current needed to efficiently turn that starter.
  3. How much is the porting costing you?
  4. With no voltage with key on, still check the fuse with your meter to ensure it is good. Then if it is good check for continuity in the wire from the fuse box to the window motor. Probably wouldn't hurt to see if you have voltage at the fuse box supply side of the fuse also.
  5. Have you checked for voltage where the harness plugs into the motor? Have you checked for voltage at the power window switch?
  6. Problem 3: When you try to follow the windows down, do you hear the power window motor turnin
  7. What I have been reading is that you reuse your dan44 stub shafts because the splines are the same and the knuckles are too small for the d50 stubs. They are a relatively easy to find center section and not expensive. I have to rebuild my front aND rear diffs and was thinking that this would be a good way to get the front taken care of.
  8. Anyone on here used a dana 50 center section in their ttb? It's seems like an inexpensive way to get 4.10s in my front axel being as, from what I'm reading elswhere, is the most common gear ratio in these. Any thoughts?
  9. The only thing mentioned is slight bumper rub. Bigger tires cause bigger stress on all components but I haven't noticed any issue with my 33s on my 86.
  10. whats the torque supposed to be on the spindle nut?
  11. Sometimes, especially when you have an aftermarket stereo, a wire can make it way down there and get things jammed up. Had to fix this on mine when I bought the truck.
  12. Has a chain and not a belt. It's not unheard of for a chain to jump a tooth bUT not common either. It would have to have a lot of slack to do so. With these engines I wouldn't be worried about it being a huge expense unless it jumped several links. You can check how much slack you without taking everything apart by pulling a valvl cover and turning the crank by hand an see how long it takes for any rocker arm movement. If even on e moves then you know the chains tight and engaging. If you move the crNk a few degrees and the Ricker arms don't then you may need a new chain. If your over a 100k miles and it hasn't been caged then you are probably due for one anyway.
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