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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Skitter302

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About Skitter302

  • Rank
    Bronco Pimp
  • Birthday May 8

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  • Website URL
    http://skitter302.weebly.com/index.html
  • Yahoo
    Gmail: Skitter302@gmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    WA
  • Interests
    Anything with 4 wheels and a motor.

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Bronco Year?
    1993

Recent Profile Visitors

2,532 profile views
  1. If you don't know about the Web company called Custom Offsets you probably should. Most these "kids" know more about wheels and tires then the guys working at your local tire shop. Junior is one of the staff members at this web company and is building up his Bronco. I've been following the Youtube videos for a while now and these guys make some fun stuff.
  2. Thats formatted nicely.
  3. The only hope for fuel economy is to rebuild the engine and change your gear ratio. Even then a '17 truck will still beat it. And the issue isn't springs and shocks. The question is does anybody make a OBS F-sreies quick ratio steering box? And how the freak does one get rid of the mushy brake pedal?
  4. The Axle width of the 5.8 is the same as the 5.0. Don't know who was saying those were different. MAX trailer weight with the 351w is rated for 7100 with 10 to 15% of that being on the ball. If I was you, I would take the time to install air shocks in the rear to help stabilize the Bronco under load. The E4OD is a strong transmission and will work great but you have to turn over drive off. Towing with the 351 isn't bad.
  5. Thankfully Not key'd. Old pinstripe job from the early 2000's.
  6. Buying another one sounded good at the time. 1994 Custom Package
  7. This thing is so crazy I had to share. eBay link -> https://tinyurl.com/4x44350
  8. The Powerstop Pads are great after the bed in process. The Drums were from O'reilly. I've never had a heat issue with my brakes so I don't know how they warped. Oh well all better now.
  9. Did new Powerstop brake pads on the '91. Also took the rear drums off and drove them across town to have them look'd at. After only 2 oil changes worth of miles they were warped. had them re surfaced and now the vibration in the rear is gone.
  10. I would stick with EFI. You can do a MAF swap from http://www.fiveologyracing.com and follow it up with a 'QuarterHorse' for Fords to tune it right. Or you can try a stinger-performance PiMPxshift Powertrain Management System with Transmission Control for the same price of a MAF swap.
  11. Put a g3 in the Centurion. Got the alt from a Pull-A-Part yard in Boise. $20 and it works.
  12. No photos for this update but I did get around to relocating the IAT sensor on the '91 from the SD position to the MAF position. Throttle response is a little crisper now. Makes me smile. Week before last I took the Bco in to our local drive line shop. They have done great work for my family in the past so I wasn't shy about letting them on my vehicle. I know that the u-joints on the rear drive line were all shot so I had the fronts replaced too. (gotta do 1 might as well do them all). I also requested that the balance of both get checked. The front was perfect as expected, but the rear needed to be re-weighted. $450 later and it rides so smooth now. No more stupid vibration. Money well spent.
  13. There are a couple of thoughts I"m having here. When I went to solve my over heating issue I found mud in the A/C condensing coil (the part infront of the rad). I also had to flush the mud from between the fins for the rad. Once I had all the external parts clean I took the radiator and ran the garden hose through it. Lots of orange muck came out. I spent 45min going back and forth between the inlet, outlet, and cap to fully flush the tubes. Whats nice is you skipped most that work be going with a new radiator. However it would be interesting to revisit the condensing coil. I also flushed the block and heater core. I got some orange junk from out of the block so based on that experience I would recommend it if you havn't done so already. The only other thing I can think of is the pump and thermostat. But you said that the thermostat has been tested so the only think left is to inspect the water pumps ability to move the coolant through the system. However all that might be going too far. The first basic step might be to install a real temp gauge and see if a over heating problem is present or if your gauge goes wack when the engine is under load.
  14. If you get that Non-Profit going let me know. I've learned that I need to stay off Craigslist and FB Marketplace. I've almost bought 2 Broncos in 1 day because of those sites.
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