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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Skitter302

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Posts posted by Skitter302


  1. The only hope for fuel economy is to rebuild the engine and change your gear ratio. Even then a '17 truck will still beat it. And the issue isn't springs and shocks.

    The question is does anybody make a OBS F-sreies quick ratio steering box?

    And how the freak does one get rid of the mushy brake pedal?


  2. The Axle width of the 5.8 is the same as the 5.0. Don't know who was saying those were different.

    MAX trailer weight with the 351w is rated for 7100 with 10 to 15% of that being on the ball. If I was you, I would take the time to install air shocks in the rear to help stabilize the Bronco under load. The E4OD is a strong transmission and will work great but you have to turn over drive off. Towing with the 351 isn't bad.


  3. This thing is so crazy I had to share.

    Quote

    1994 Ford Bronco NO RESERVE FORD BRONCO DUALLY 4X4 MANUAL 5.0L V8
    - 1994 Ford Bronco Dually conversion 4x4!
    - 5.0L v8 runs and starts right up
    - Clutch is very strong
    - No warning lights of any kind.
    - Brakes stop the vehicle well
    - This is a very interesting truck and defiantly a head turner and a great conversation piece.
    - Drive-train from a ford f350 allowing the extra 2 wheels.
    - Exterior paint does not have many scratches or dents, however given the age and miles, surface rust is starting to creep up from the bottom.
    - I included a photo of the undercarriage at the bottom of the listing, undercarriage is not in great shape and needs some work.
    - Grey Interior is in great condition, no tears in the seats or nasty mars on the dash. The interior of this truck in this color is very difficult to find.
    - All matching Kenda Kevlar tires look nearly brand new and have plenty of tread life remaining.
    - I have many photos below of the Jeep inside and out. Please refer to those for the best and most accurate description of the vehicle.
    - Please review the accident free Carfax below.
    - There is a $299 Document and prep fee that allows us to sell for NO RESERVE

    GkZwelG.jpg
    97CsQIX.jpg
    qn44AEp.jpg
    Sl2OjJE.jpg
    19yPv1h.jpg
    RtH55wy.jpg

    eBay link -> https://tinyurl.com/4x44350


  4. 11 hours ago, miesk5 said:

    Yo Skitter,

    Too bad about the Power...

    I use Motorcraft brake parts since we purchased our 96 New.

     

     

    The Powerstop Pads are great after the bed in process. The Drums were from O'reilly. I've never had a heat issue with my brakes so I don't know how they warped. Oh well all better now.


  5. No photos for this update but I did get around to relocating the IAT sensor on the '91 from the SD position to the MAF position. Throttle response is a little crisper now. Makes me smile. Week before last I took the Bco in to our local drive line shop. They have done great work for my family in the past so I wasn't shy about letting them  on my vehicle. I know that the u-joints on the rear drive line were all shot so I had the fronts replaced too. (gotta do 1 might as well do them all). I also requested that the balance of both get checked. The front was perfect as expected, but the rear needed to be re-weighted. $450 later and it rides so smooth now. No more stupid vibration. Money well spent.

     


  6. There are a couple of thoughts I"m having here.

    When I went to solve my over heating issue I found mud in the A/C condensing coil (the part infront of the rad). I also had to flush the mud from between the fins for the rad. Once I had all the external parts clean I took the radiator and ran the garden hose through it. Lots of orange muck came out. I spent 45min going back and forth between the inlet, outlet, and cap to fully flush the tubes. Whats nice is you skipped most that work be going with a new radiator. However it would be interesting to revisit the condensing coil. 

    I also flushed the block and heater core. I got some orange junk from out of the block so based on that experience I would recommend it if you havn't done so already. The only other thing I can think of is the pump and thermostat. But you said that the thermostat has been tested so the only think left is to inspect the water pumps ability to move the coolant through the system.

     

    However all that might be going too far. The first basic step might be to install a real temp gauge and see if a over heating problem is present or if your gauge goes wack when the engine is under load.


  7. On 3/23/2019 at 6:07 AM, RR-Texas said:

    Will do sir

    Seems now all I want to do is buy the 5 or 6 Broncos at the car lot by me, plus I know where 2 others are sitting in fields.  May be too late for one of them?  Wonder if I can start a government funded, non-profit Bronco Rescue Organization?  I’ll need a shop, with a drive on lift and a regular frame lift too.  

    Was gonna drive in to work this morning, but decided I should crawl back under her and check everything out now that she has 70 or so miles on her

    If you get that Non-Profit going let me know. I've learned that I need to stay off Craigslist and FB Marketplace. I've almost bought 2 Broncos in 1 day because of those sites.


  8. Rather then asking for money out right ya might try making something for people to see, something like a Youtube channel. Take your time making a video, cover a topic on your Bronco people are interested in. I know that there are alot of Auto channels out there but not all of them cover OBS Ford and Bronco content. Could even create a simple 1 color design that could be printed on a White T-Shirt and have it featured on our YouTube page.

    I guess the message I really want to convey is create something people can spend money on.


  9. My Red '91 got a new heater core today.

    rccbgM6.jpg

    Also changed out my 180°F Stat for a Hi-flow 195°F stat. The 180° thermostat was just too cool for my 351. It was always in the 160 to 170 range. Even in the summer the Bco ran too cool. This resulted in some issues with my EEC jumping in and out closed loop. With the new 195° the throttle response is smooth.


  10. Sunday, I was following the F150 in front of me when I dropped through the top crust and my rear slid off to the side. I was just too heavy for the snow trail, the Bronco behind me was floating along.

    AWL4gf4.jpg

    2P4PxsB.jpg

    Took a polaris razor with mattracks to pull me out of the rut I made for my self. Not a bad day.


  11. Re reading my own post I can see I wasn't being clear enough with 1 question.

    The Factory springs from 87-91 and 92-96, are they the same? If so could this lead to other hood parts being compatible between the 2 generations?

    Alot of the time they don't list the other generation because they didn't test it on those years of vehicle.


  12. This news just hit Facebook.

    Fiveology Racing

    Removing emissions related sensors/solenoids can cause idle quality and drivability issues, especially when it comes to the Thermactor System. This eliminator kit makes it possible to remove the Thermactor System Solenoids (TAB,TAD) from your main engine wire harness while keeping the EFI system functioning normally and the check engine light from coming on.

    TAB-TAD%20Delete%20(Product%20Photo).jpg

     

    Link -> fiveologyracing.com

    (832) 405-9518

    sales@fiveologyracing.com

     

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