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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Skitter302

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  1. Yo, Have you done much work on Ford Rangers? I've got a question about the electrical system.

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. Skitter302

      Skitter302

      I'm a HVAC service tech by trade. Tracking down bad wiring or finding bad parts is what I do. I busted out the user manual and try'd to locate the bad fuse or fuses by description. When that didn't work I pulled all the fuses looking for a bad one. Not finding any bad fuses I pulled the radio and the HVAC controls and probed the back of them to find that no 12v was going to the knob that controls fan speed. I then moved on to the flasher relay to find 12v going to the pin that controls the hazards but no 12v going to the other half of the relay. If your correct and their is no fuse-able links then the wiring harness has a open in it. That is the only conclusion I can come up with since all the fuses were good.

      I even pulled and bypassed the blower relay and the blower works great. So what ever 12v signal goes through the relay to close it, isn't making it when the key is on. What ever the issue is its up stream of the fuses. What do you think?

    3. ShadetreeSeattle

      ShadetreeSeattle

      sounds like we have the basics here for a no 12v situation over a no ground one... however we would benefit from some electrical documentation to fully understand the electrical circuit going on here... i'm just shooting in the dark here unfortunately as i am less experienced with post 96 stuff so bare with me.... i do know that the blower motor circuit on older (pre 96) ford rigs @ the fan switch is a negative controlled side of the circuit if i remember correctly,  which means it may not show 12v even if working properly, depending on which terminals were probed. i might advise picking up a PDF copy of the Factory service manual on ebay, since it seems there's not too much wire harness documentation out there on these newer rigs... it could be similar to what i know, but i'm still unsure.  the F.S.M. will provide detailed schematics that a chilton's will never... let alone a user manual. it seems lke you have the troubleshooting knowledge but not the documentation... a situation that i find myself in more than i'd like to admit. haha. local libraries sometimes have copies of the fsm for applicable years on many vehicles as well. according to the wiki page, the ranger you got is a third gen, from 98-2012 and if i'd have a bet in anything the electronics may have not changed much between those years, as far as the heater controls go, let alone the hazards or other systems, i'm speaking off the top of my head. they do tend not to change up things like this too much between generations from what i have seen. anyways, i'd try to get some electrical schematics on the rig... then you can see where the circuit begins, what devices are involved and where it terminates back to ground.

      i'd imagine though if relativly unchanged, the circuit's hot (12v) side originates from an ign switch feed from the engine bay fuse box, goes thru the ign switch, or a relay driven by said switch, then goes to a secondary (lower amperage) fuse in the passenger compartment, then to the motor. the motor should show 12v when the key's on basically. but it won't run till the return path is made (the negative side of the circuit) via the blower's dashboard switch. this switch on newer vehicles may not actually be a part of the blower circuit either, (like on older rigs) but rather, the switch tells a controller to 'ground' the motor's neg side a certain amount for desired blower speed. older rigs utilize a 'blower motor resistor' to accomplish typically 3 or 4 speeds. the switch on it's highest setting direct connects the blower's neg side to chassis ground, while the slower settings on the switch connect the motor to ground via several resistors that 'waste' a certain amount of energy to accomplish the desired speed. modern blower motor systems on some other vehicles i have worked on utilize a transistorized controller, which gives a much larger scale of control, and it's solid state. i'm unsure of if these 05's use these but it could be a thing... either way, demystifying these systems starts with getting good literature... otherwise i'm just shootin in the dark. hopefully i have given some useful info so far though. 

    4. Skitter302

      Skitter302

      Did some more looking the circuit isn't ground switching. I'll have to find a diagram and find where the missing part of the puzzle is. If that doesn't work then I'll wiring the features back in using new wires with fuses in them.

  2. How's the new forum layout working on your tablet?

  3. Been having fun with my Bronco in the Snow. Only had a 2wd vehicle last year so its nice to go up hills this year.

    Bronco MPG.PNG

  4. I'll miss the avatar of my old Bronco but I like my red one.

  5. I have a Bronco again!

  6. I miss my Bronco.

  7. Got a 2" reciever on my Bronco now. Now I can stop using Dad's truck to tow my trailer.

  8. Put in the Rplacement T-case in my Bronco! 4x4 actually works now :D

  9. Dana Rocks! Gallery is back and so is the Recent Topics section.

  10. BZ members must be out having fun!

  11. I think I'm getting 12-13mpg... And my gas gauge works just fine. :NotBadFace:

    1. Skitter302

      Skitter302

      normal is 8-9mpg. This is different...

  12. "Bronco Mechanic" ... You have no Idea.

  13. I thought about swithing the front clip on my Bronco and up dating it to a '92-'96. But, after seeing all the cool broncos on this site, I thought better about it.

  14. I wonder what features can be brought here from another forum? Hmmm...

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