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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size


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    Bronco Mechanic
  • Birthday 09/20/1964

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    Wrenchin' on the Bronco, School (Criminal Justice), and tryin' to relax....

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  1. So far so good! The drive-shaft is solid and connected to the pinion yoke with zero movement and the clunk is gone. I still have a slight vibration but there are other things I need to rule out like my tires which I recently purchased used and are slightly cupped on the outer edges. They are directional and I think the PO may have run them backwards for a bit by mistake. I had the truck aligned again today after driving it for a while and re-torquing the lift brackets, radius arms, and the new rear u-bolts I just replaced. I have to check tomorrow because I remember having a problem tightening the two long bolts that go into the radiator support body bushings after I put the motor back in and put the front end back on. The vibration seems to be coming from the front and the drive-shaft was shortened and balanced and in the rear so I wonder if the front end starts to vibrate/wobble because the bolts aren't completely tightened so it's letting the front radiator support and fenders etc. start to shake as the speed increases, especially if the road is choppy or not quite smooth. If the road is smooth and level it doesn't do it near as much...... -Kevin-
  2. Just saw this, did you ever figure it out? -Kevin-
  3. So my buddy came over Wed and we decided to use the old pinion nut so that we had the original mark still on it and in the right place. We ended up having to use two pipe wrenches and a piece of pipe and a breaker bar to tighten the nut down enough. The compressor and impact gun got close but we decided to finish it up by hand to be sure and not pass the two marks. We adjusted it just a little past the mark to be sure and to keep it under tension. The yoke is tight and no more wobble and the conversion joint fits into the 1330 slip-shaft and the 1350 yoke perfectly! So as far as I can tell everything is fine and there is no more loud clank from the back as I put in into gear. Plus I feel better knowing the u-joint fits into the yoke tighter.... -Kevin-
  4. So another update to my previous update. We took the pinion nut off and the yoke came off with only the force of the seal lightly pushing behind it. That wasn't good right off the bat since they usually need a little tap to get them on. The yoke also wobbles back and forth more than normally so it looks like the shop either used possibly a front yoke or whatever 31 splined Ford one they had laying around. The u-joint caps never did fit completely right so I'm wondering if it fit a 1310 instead of a 1330 which is what the Bronco has on the slip shaft. Either way I searched everywhere and couldn't find a 1350 yoke at any drive shaft shops or aftermarket parts houses so I finally went to Ford and ordered one at my cost which was $105 out the door listing for $170 I was going to get in touch with a buddy that works at Pick-N-Pull but decided I wanted one that had a new sleeve since mine was grooved and caused the pinion seal to leak on the inside and the outside. I also wanted to change up to the 1350 for strength and all I had to buy was a conversion u-joint that has two 1330 caps for the slip-shaft and two 1350 caps for the larger pinion yoke. Later all I have to do is get in touch with Eric at Ericautopart one of FSB's vendors and he makes rear shafts loaded with 1350 joints that will bolt straight up to the 1350 yoke on the Sterling making everything much stronger. I almost went with a 1410 yoke but wasn't sure if their was a conversion joint available and what the other caps were, maybe one size down 1350's. I didn't want to spend the money replacing the slip-shaft in case they were 1350's because I would have just replaced the whole drive shaft instead and I just had the whole thing shortened, balanced, and new 1330's replaced all around. I even bought two new strap kits for the yoke since it's threaded and since they fit the 1350 caps nice and tight. Weird thing is that they fit Dodge's etc and have one big strap and one littler one so you have to buy two kits to get two big ones. We looked and the ring/pinion gears are contacting real nice and deeply into the ring gear so at least it looks to be set up correctly after 850 miles of breaking it in. Here is a list of the part numbers for anyone wanting to swap diffs and upgrade to a bigger yoke...... Ford 1350 yoke off a '80-'89 F350/FSD (E7TZ-4851-A) Precision brand conversion u-joint from O'Rellys/Kragen (# 448) Two MTM strap kits from O'Reillys/Kragen (# 81020) -Kevin-
  5. Well a little update. I removed the u-bolts that came with the Sterling and went over to Loomis Ca. about 10 minutes from my house to RuffStuff and picked up some new one's. I bought the spring plates from them and they were 1/4" and very beefy so I checked their website and grabbed four- 5/8" by 3 5/8" by 10" u-bolts with washers and nuts cheaper than I could have got at O'Reillys and went home and put them on. They tighten up much better, my old ones were shot, the front leaf spring to bracket bolts were loose so that was my swaying problem so now the diff is back under control. I found I have a pinion seal leak and I heard the early Sterling's have a short pinion problem till '93 but I'm not screwing with the crush sleeve and backlash etc till I swap in a locker later. I drained the fluid which was black from being assembled and sprayed it out with parts wash. I even used a floor jack to lift both sides to drain the fluid out of the tubes as good as possible. I bought new fluid and a couple bottles of friction modifier and a new pinion seal and a new nut. I have a mechanic buddy of mine from the Ford dealership we worked at coming over Saturday to look at everything before I put fluid back in to be sure it looks and sounds ok. He's bringing a pinion torque wrench to measure the torque on the nut before we remove it so we can put it back as close as possible and I used a punch to mark the pinion and the nut just to be sure and counted the exposed threads. I'm a little pissed because I had this 10.25 re-built by the guy who was selling me the used axle and I mentioned reading an article about the short shafts but I heard the newer ring and pinions already had the longer ones upgraded. I mentioned this after he was finished but he seemed to not know this so now with the leak I'm wondering what else he may have skimped on without me knowing. I had him put the 4L56 gears in to match the front and replace the pinion bearing and seal because he said they needed to be done but he said the spider gears looked fine. Even though the limited slip clutches looked good I had him replace them anyways. Guess we'll see this weekend...... -Kevin-
  6. I came into this post late but wanted to give you my opinion for what it's worth. I have run a few Holley's in my day and they seem to always need attention from getting dirty and the needle and seats plugging up and leaking. I finally switched to Edelbrock carbs because there are no gaskets below the fuel bowl line so they can't leak and they tune super easily. I also changed the float with a off road (side) float kit so when you climb up steep inclines the float won't sink and stall the vehicle. Which makes stopping without power brakes while rolling downhill backwards quite a challenge! Basically you can throw on a "New" Edelbrock for $299.95, close the hood, and forget about carb problems for good. I finally used one with the float kit on my '74 F100 and when I bought my '77 F150 it was the FIRST thing I changed. If I ever switched back to a carb vehicle, from an EFI one which I won't, I would buy a 1406 right away! Just something to think about in case you have any future problems with that Holley again....oh here's a link for the carb! -Kevin- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1406/ Plus look at the accessories!! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1203/?rtype=10 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-4443/?rtype=10 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-E-1088/
  7. Sunny California totally fer sure dude but also because mine is different on my '96 Fred. The top is still mounted to the upper radiator support but the bottom was mounted (stock) to the side of the support next to the radiator. They both pulled in fresh air but the bottom one sat really low so I removed it. I have mass air with a air temp sensor in the side of the air-box and the small coolant hose off the radiator fill neck that goes to the throttle body to help with cold weather starting and so the throttle plates don't freeze open but I've also heard it's because coolant is cooler than the fuel vapor that is going in the canister purge port on the opposite side of the throttle body (IAC side) from the canister purge solenoid. It gets plenty of air anyways the way it is and with the larger K&N inlet it pulls it in fast, probably 5-6 inch plastic tube with dual ends for the throttle body. The mass air was adjusting for the increase so I put an oil soaked piece of red pre-filter, that goes around the K&N cones, in the air inlet on top of the radiator support to slow it down a tad and the idle smoothed right out and it runs strong. I like to do improvements even if it only slightly increases H.P./Torque or M.P.G. Because if you add up all the improvements they help each other out and the overall performance is worth it. My '96 is still the original motor and trans and I bet it's running better than when it left the factory 16 years ago but I'm always on top of things before they happen like hoses, vac lines, tune-up parts. It's sort of like therapy but cheaper than the couch! -Kevin-
  8. Get rid of those E3's because they will flag a check engine light and when they do you'll have no idea what it is for. Throw in a set of regular old Autolite 24's or Motorcraft non-platinum's and don't worry about the expensive ones. Put a new cap and rotor on and a higher volt coil about 48,000 and a decent set of plug wires like 8.8mm or higher, gap the plugs to 55 and advance the timing to 13.5 Just make sure it doesn't "ping" when you drive it or you will need to back it off down to 13 or so. Here's a link man: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63592&highlight=6litre+tune Make sure your air filter is clean and the same with the fuel filter on the frame rail.Check your tire pressure like Al said because it really does make a big difference. Good Luck man... -Kevin-
  9. I torqued the u-bolts to 160 ft lbs after putting the stock 6 deg wedges back and removing the bottom two leafs and now it is making noise and the wheels sort of "click" and when I move from forward to reverse and back again the pinion and drive-shaft move up and down quite a bit?? I think the tubes are possibly moving too but not sure, hard to see underneath. I'm not driving it till I figure this out because I don't want to screw anything up. I can try pulling the wheels and cranking the bolts tighter, torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs. It's amazing that the u-bolts, plates, and wedges welded to the diff tubes are all that keep the rear-ends from twisting with that much torque.... -Kevin-
  10. It's got 3.54 in the front and 3.55 in the rear so 4.56 would be fine like Wileec said. That will be plenty on the street and will work fine off road when you do too. If you plan on wheeling it you may want to just install a locker instead of a limited slip in the rear. I wouldn't go up to 4.88 with an 8.8 because it is a lot of stress on the case with just 33's so 35's would be worse. If you spend most of your time on the street, camping or light wheeling you'll be fine. Light wheeling doesn't mean you have to pussyfoot around, it just means if you plan on rough wheeling or a lot of big rock crawling you'll want to consider changing out the diff to go up to 4.88's or larger. I can fly down the freeway at 75 no problem and the rpm's are very low and it is plenty quick off the line. I would like 4.88's only because I want to lock the diffs and want to crawl over bigger rocks and hit some taller hills and basically bulletproof the drive train to limit how much breakage I will have. Plus I like building things solidly so I don't have to put too much into them later when I'm having fun. Make sure to do the 6liter tune-up so help with performance off the line and so your E4OD doesn't downshift as much when going up hills on the freeway or when the cruise is on. http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63592 Good Luck Man! -Kevin- BTW, have you seen this thread for soft tops? http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192899&highlight=soft+top This a a member on FSB with a rig that looks like mine so now I can see what mine will look like so now it's KILLING ME! http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n486/oneilj18/
  11. Before you take it off you could run a ground wire to the battery itself, if you haven't fixed this already, to verify it's the ground. If it works unbolt and clean if not, check the relay or bypass it to rule out the positive wire itself. This is a side note but my wife works at Harbor Freight and we just put a "Bad Boy" horn from there on her 4Runner and it was about $35 dollars, comes with it's own compressor built in, and actually is loud and sounds decent in case you want a new one sometime... -Kevin-
  12. My '96 did everything you're talking about. I changed the radiator cap and then the thermostat and gasket and still it leaked. I finally replaced the water pump and hoses because the pump started leaking out the weep hole. I was working on it in my garage one day and the neighbor's handyman came over and said man not another freakin' Bronco, I hate those things. I looked at him and said dude this truck is in killer shape other than this coolant leak I've been trying to fix. He looked at me and said no offense man it's just that I worked for a used car dealership and everything one of these came in I had to replace the timing cover. The gaskets basically turn to jelly and leak like a sieve. Oh, I had also replaced my intake manifold gaskets but the leak was still there. I would find it on the ground but couldn't trace it down. The reservoir would always leak coolant from the cap even if I had just a splash of collant inside and if it had a 1/4 full it was everywhere. Wait till you can afford to, but use a Motorcraft water pump, thermostat and radiator cap and replace the hoses and coolant with whatever brand you like. I use Prestone 50/50 pre-mixed because I've always used Prestone and the pre-mix is just easier! If you can or want to, rot out the radiator or replace it and your problems will be over. Make sure you use good sealant. I used to swear by gaskacinch by Permatex but have been using a new Permatex called ("The Right Stuff one minute gasket" item # 25229) in an aresole can sort of like "cheese wizz" but the nice thing about it is you can bolt the parts together "immediately" to the correct torque setting without waiting for it to cure or set and it says you can put the vehicle into service right away with zero leaks! They're right I've used it for my trans pan, all the cooling stuff, and my wife's thermostat yesterday and she was driving it 10 minutes later, no leaks.... -Kevin-
  13. Hey Al I don't remember, how far back do inertia switches go in Fords? It really is an easy way to leak down the fuel rails and as of yet I haven't had to bleed the schrader valve to remove any trapped air in the fuel rails. -Kevin-
  14. I was going to suggest maybe some gasket sealant was keeping the thermostat partially open/closed and trapped one heck of a air bubble somewhere inside the motor because of it collapsing the coolant hose. You would see some oil floating in the radiator and some white smoke out the tailpipe if it was a head gasket and it would run rough. The steam is probably the heater core starting to go and probably just a small drip now but will get worse so replace it or like Bully Bob said bypass the core with a plastic coupler till you can. Pop a new thermostat in and make sure the little jiggle valve is at the top because it vents out any trapped air. Double check the degree which is probably 180 but my '96 uses a 192 so be sure because some sensors are set to only work at the correct temp which may be higher than 180. It's a good time to do the bypass since you're draining off coolant to do the thermostat anyhow and you can cut the heater hoses in the engine compartment and couple them together. When you do the core later you can use the coupler on one hose and put one of those plastic Prestone flush kits in the other to do engine flushes..... -Kevin-
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