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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

cszalai

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About cszalai

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    Where's My Hammer!?!
  1. Hi all, I put a Yukon limited slip (from the graveyard)in the rear end of my bronco and when I am turning a corner from a stop I feel something like the brakes dragging (I checked they are not dragging) when I back into a parking spot I feel like the brakes are on and are trying to stop me.... not chattering... like the brakes are on but they are not.... another thing too if I jack up the whole rear end and put the truck in neutral I feel a real hard drag from the rear end not the brakes dragging not like when I had an open diff(the little bit of play in the gear moves very easily. I paid a guy recommended by the bronco graveyard to set up the rear end for me.... there is limited slip additive in the diff... is this normal for a new limited slip...... everything was replaced.... axle shafts, ring, pinion, carrier, all bearings....etc..... just getting a little nervous here... I need to get the trans rebuilt but I don't want to do that and then have this blow up because something wasn't done right (or it just wasn't good out of the box)
  2. Hi all I have kind of a strange problem.... I have heat from the vents, and the floor but when I put the heat on the defroster I get cold air..... any ideas????
  3. the second picture is what i am talking about .... them 3 wires are on the motor side of the plug http://i71.photobuck.../1267164445.jpg and to disconnect or change the motor them 3 wires have to be cut..... When i get home tonight ill take a picture and post it
  4. I am wondering.... on my 94 Bronco around the rear driveshaft output there is a thing with 3 wires on it and they attach to a ring looking thing and the drive shaft goes through the middle of it what is that and what does it do..... My truck won't go into 4x4 and i am sure its the motor but.... there are these 3 wires that are on the motor side of the harness.... I was told it's nothing just cut the wires.... but i haven't been able to find out what it is..... If it is really something not needed can i remove it with the 3 torx bolts holding it and remove it... I can take a picture if you want... but i am sure someone here knows what it is
  5. I stumbled into a problem the other day while driving somewhere....i was driving down the road doing about 40mph i figured turn on the speed control and sit back as i had a 20 min trip to make it was morning and kinda dark still so i turned on my lights and when i did my speed control shut off. If i am thinking correct that tells me without even looking at anything i have a bad ground and it is back feeding and picking up the ground from the lights so today i finally got a chance to dig into it a little and look at the obvious stuff the body grounds on the LF core support, the RF by the battery, the main cable hooking to the engine, the left and right rocker panels and they are all good and tight (i checked for power at each one with a volt meter to check for voltage drops)I have the truck manuals on microfiche (the originals) and it says one of the grounds are at G-200 (the right rocker), and the other ground is in the left rocker at G201 (the places i checked)....any ideas?...when i first got the truck the power locks didn't work so i ran a fused power lead into the door and hooked it up and they worked....could this be related? are there plugs in the driver corner on the main harness that i can't see? am i going to need to pull the dash to find this ... I'm looking for ideas for where to look, i am laidoff from the auto industry and attending college full time so i don't have a whole lot of time to dig into this till after the end of the semester but when i get a minute here and there i take some time and look and check some stuff... thanks in advance
  6. It's a 4WD, and it's possible that yours has open diffs F&R. But it's still not a "3WD"; if you only count one front wheel because of the open diff, then you can only count one rear wheel. So that only leaves 2WD, which isn't correct, either. Almost every vehicle on the road is a 2WD; Broncos are 4WD. Land Rovers are AWD (they have a differential in the t-case, and most of those are open diffs). Just glance at the back of your passenger axle beam and look in the corner of the sticker (it's upside-down) to see if yours is STD (open) or limited slip. The effect of an open diff is that the tires get the proportion of torque related to the OPPOSITE tire's traction. So if the L tire has 0% traction for that axle, then the R tire gets 0% of the torque coming to that axle. If the tires have equal traction (50% each), then they each get 50% of the torque coming into the axle. The effect of a LSD is that it maintains a slight bias (which varies with how it was built) so that there's always SOME torque going to each wheel, even if one has no traction. A worn-out LSD has 0 bias, and behaves like an open. An LSD that has been built with an extra-strong spring or an extra clutch in each pack will have more bias than a new stock LSD, so it'll behave more like a locker. The effect of a locker is that it always splits torque evenly UNTIL it reaches a certain strain condition (depending on its design) at which point it momentarily unlocks & instantly relocks. So on dry pavement, some lockers make an audible popping as they operate. The last type is a torque-biasing, which varies the bias effect mechanically to work smoother than a locker, but tighter than an LSD when needed, and almost like an open most of the time. They're expensive & sometimes delicate. Then there are selectables which combine some functions, like the ARB Air-Locker & the Eaton E-Locker which can be manually switched from open to locked. Auburn makes one that switches from LSD to locker, but they don't seem to last. This thread contains links to most of the mfr's sites with more info about each model. The Ex 8.8" uses the same Eaton Traction-Lok LSD as the Bronco & F-series, but some only have 28-spline side gears, so they won't work in a fullsize. Eaton also produces the TrueTrac torque biasing diff, the PosiTraction LSD (once owned by GM), and the entire TracTech line which includes the famous Detroit Locker. Thanks for the info when he told me about this i knew it didn't sound right and i even said "you mean i kinda have 3-wheel drive" and he said yes so i turned here, it might act or feel like 3-wheel drive right now because of wear. This truck sat for 5 yrs (for the most part) it sat more than it was driven, the axles are stiff it pulls real hard to the right when i put it in 4 wheel and while the ball joint and tie rods / drag links are all good i can still feel a looseness in the front that i cant find....(when i get into the worn parts of the road (like a 2 track) with bumps in it the truck gets hard to control and wants to (i guess id call it this) drift, when i find this problem then i can start rebuilding the other things like the front axle, the transfer case, changing fenders and other rusted body parts
  7. I heard something the other day and want to confirm it....i have a94 bronco with the original front axle in it, it is an IFS axle the only thing thats been changed is the hub locks they are manual and then i have the electronic shift transfer case......is this front axle a one wheel spinner.....if it is ..to be technical then i have a 3 wheel drive not a 4 wheel drive, i know i have a limited slip in the back i'd love to get a 8.8 locker from an explorer i heard they are well built
  8. I changed the pivot bushing on one side and i just found after i listed this post that i might not have installed it right here is a picture of it if you look close there is a spacer in the bushing filling the area where i should have pressed in (i think it goes on the other side) what your saying Seabroc is what i thought but the guy where i went owns a bronco also so i went here for a second opinion, looks like i was right....thanks, I think im going to rent the ball joint press mentioned in another thread and reinstall it the correct way....it might throw off my alignment again but at least it will be correctly installed also any ideas to get the bolt out for the other side.....i broke a snap-on 1/2inch drive, 18mm socket trying to get that bolt out Thanks cszalai
  9. I bought a 94 bronco for 200 bucks, and have fixed everything bad on it, except for a couple of odds and ends like, front springs, and shocks (all 4 in the front). Are all Broncos like this?......belle tire says i have memory steer .....the direction of the the pull in the steeriong seems to change while im driving down the road. I have changed the entire rear suspension (the whole thing), the passenger radus arm bushing and bracket, the passenger pivot bushing, (frozen bolts are stopping me from doing the driver side bushings otherwise they would be done allready, but they were left for now because they don't look bad) the sway bar bushings (front and back), myself and belle tire have checked the tie rods, and ball joints (belle tire did an alignment which means they checked the fron end twice) when i am driving on the freeway it feels like something is loose, when i get into sections of road where the lanes are worn in it gets real hard to control, while im not looking for it to handle like it was new, i do want it to drive without being all over the road. today in michigan (oct 23rd) i was driving home from a dr appt for my daughter in the rain and hit a flooded section (just a big puddle) of water in the right lane and instead of steering to the left to keep the truck straight in the lane i found i was steering to the right, i know the short wheelbase, will make the steering sensitive but this feels like something is loose or about to break, but when i get under it everything looks good I am a laidoff from the auto industry, and am currently going to college to get a degree in computers so i don't have alot of money, but everything i have changed did need to be changed, weather it be because of the part being worn out, rotted, or rusted away, i just want this thing to feel safe and it dosn't any ideas
  10. cszalai

    My new truck

    This is my first time doing a blog it dosn't seem too hard hopefully i do it correct. I bought this 94 bronco for $200.00 the tailgate didn't open, the tach, didn't work, neither did the door locks, and it wouldn't go into 4 wheel drive...oh it also needed a new temperature cable.......everything is fixed now except for the tach , and the exhaust(hopefully the heat works too )....the fenders are rusty but the core body and frame is solid....if the heat works when i get the engine hot then all i have to worry about is the exhaust (the donut is blown out at the manifold)...The interior is in almost perfect condition.....My neighbor who i got it from says there is something wrong with the engine....says it won't strand me but it will run real bad.......i have yet to see this problem when i do ill post and hopefully someone can help me track it down
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