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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size


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About husmann

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    It's Only Money, Right?

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  • Location
    Southcentral Texas
  • Interests
    My wife, my kids, Jesus, Broncos, gardening, shooting, motorcycling, etc.

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?
  1. It actually does not matter when you lock the hubs, in relationship to actually putting it into 4WD. Of course, you won't have 4WD if the hubs are not locked, no matter what the transfer case is doing. You have to put it into 4Hi before you can put it into 4Lo. With the original auto-locking hubs that came on your Bronco, you could engage 4Hi at something up to 30mph. The important thing was to make sure that you stopped and went at least 10ft in reverse once you were out of 4WD to disengage the hubs. Otherwise those auto locking hubs would fry. I have a '93 that now has Warn manual locking hubs. I have found that sometimes they don't want to disengage even after I've unlocked them, so I try to go in reverse a little once I'm done with 4WD. To engage 4Hi, you can be in Park, Drive, Neutral, or Reverse. Same for getting out of 4Hi. To engage 4Lo from 4Hi, you have to be in Neutral AND stopped. If it does not want to go into 4Lo, then drive a few feet forward or reverse, put it into Neutral, and try again. Getting out of 4Lo is just the reverse process. Step by Step: 1. Manually lock the hubs. 2. Engage 4Hi in whatever transmission mode you want. 3. Put vehicle in Neutral. Engage 4Lo. If it won't go easily, move forward or reverse a few feet. Try again. 4. Have fun and don't crash. 5. Put vehicle in Neutral. Disengage 4Lo. 6. Disengage 4Hi. 7. Unlock hubs. 8. Drive in reverse a few feet (not mandatory). Hope this helps. Husmann
  2. For what it’s worth, I have a ‘93 XLT with a 5.8L and the towing package. Back in 2005 I had a 2” lift, 33s, and Bilstein shocks. I put a Class IV hitch on it and towed a completely packed and very heavy 6x12 tandem axle U-Haul trailer from Jackson, Mississippi, to Tucson, Arizona. The chassis, engine, and transmission had no problems at all. The Bronco can handle more than you would expect, and I think if you are willing to take your time and not try to keep up with traffic, you should not hesitate to use it. In 2008 I used it to tow the same type trailer with just as much weight from Tucson to Brenham, Texas (about 1,000 miles). It did better than the moving truck we rented, which nearly got killed by bad diesel fuel. Over the past few years I’ve used it to tow a buddy’s 2006 Air Nautique 226, which is a huge boat. The Bronco is not happy about it, but it can do it. And now I have a 4” lift and 34s and 4:10 dif gears. As for the air springs, they would be nice, but not necessary, as long as your shocks are decent. As for towing in overdrive, it is not recommended, but I have done it a lot and my E4OD has held up just fine. It depends a lot on the conditions and terrain. I will admit that I am a bit of a risk taker. I hope this helps, God bless your move, and don’t apologize for towing massive stuff with your Bronc. Derek
  3. husmann

    Rebuilt Engine

    Stock 351W from Gearheads.com
  4. Seabronc and miesk 5, Thanks so much for the input. I think I'll keep most everything as is and see how it does when I put it all back together and fire it up. Rebuilt engine was delivered today and have the old one broken down except oil pan, oil pump, and timing chain cover. Have only broken about 4 bolts. Exciting stuff. Thanks, Husmann Will post pics when I get the chance.
  5. Hey ya'll, I'm getting a rebuilt 5.8L long block for my 1993 Bronco. The engine was actually running fine prior to pulling it, except that it would not keep it's oil pressure up when driving (had about 235k miles). I had no CELs or driveability issues. When I transfer everything over to my rebuilt engine and put it back in the vehicle, what sensors, valves, sending units should I replace? I'm talking about things like: PCV valve, EGR valve, O2 sensor, TPS sensor, intake air temp sensor, etc. Thanks, Husmann
  6. fyreduck1921, Here are some of my thoughts on bolt-ons and other mods for this generation Bronco with the Speed Density ECU: Air Intake and Fuel Delivery: 1. K&N Air Filter for stock box--have had this for years and like it; may keep it. 2. Cold Air Intake--thought I was definitely going to do this, but not sure now; most of these systems do not have ducting for fresh air from the grill and do not use the stock intake ducts; therefore, they may get a little higher volume of air, but it is hot air from the engine compartment; Seabronc said it's not worth it and I think I agree. 3. Higher flow injectors/adjustable fuel pressure regulator--I've decided because of the inability to change the computer, it is not worth messing with these things; I plan on getting my stock injectors rebuilt. 4 Throttle Body--not sure if any mods will make any difference, but doubt I will do anything with this; don't want CELs. 5. Intake plenum--thought about getting the Edelbrock Performer intake plenum, but it looks more stupid than stock, and I kinda doubt it will give enough bang for the buck. Heads: I don't think any mods are worth doing because of the computer; I'm getting the stock heads that come with the rebuilt engine. Camshaft: I've read that you can do a very mild changed cam, but I am not sure if this is really worth it; I'm still trying to find someone with enough knowledge to help me decide this issue; I think I'll be fine with stock; we'll see. Block/Crankshaft/Piston/etc.--all staying stock. Exhaust: 1. A few years ago I put on a high-flow cat, 3" single pipe, and Magnaflow muffler, and I love it; I will keep all of this, though I might remove the cat if it will not mess with the ECU/Smog/cause CELs. 2. Already ordered JBA ceramic coated shorty headers; I think my exhaust mods will probably give me more gain than just about anything else (besides finally getting the right gearing in my difs). Ignition: 1. Already got MSD Distributor cap, rotor, and wires, and I'll keep these. 2. Will probably do MSD coil. 3. Considering new MSD Distributor and 6AL Ignition box, but not sure if these will be worth it. Oil system: 1. Getting Milodon oil pan, Milodon oil pickup, and Melling oil pump--I have often in the past had oil pickup problems when offroading, and would have my valves clattering badly; would have to stop, turn off engine, and let things settle, then keep going; I am doing these mods to prevent that problem; also, the increased capacity oil pan will keep the oil and engine temps a little lower. 2. Plan on using synthetic oil in the new engine. Cooling: 1. Getting a Flowcooler water pump. 2. Staying with stock radiator and fan setup; I don't think the horsepower gains from electric fans are worth it, plus I don't want to rely on electronics to keep my engine cool; I don't think there is any need for a "better" aftermarket radiator, as the stock is plenty effective. Is that enough? If anyone has any thoughts about what I've listed, or can answer any of my unresolved issues/questions, let me know. Thanks, Husmann
  7. Hey ants95bronco, Thanks for the heads up. It's nice to know that you can still have a great truck without having a 600Hp racing engine in it. I think in the long run I'll be much happier with basic bolt on mods and a very streetable truck that can still hang with just about anyone off-road. For me, I have never had stock size tires (I now have 33's) and I have never changed the gearing in my difs, so I think just doing that will make a huge difference. Some of the most fun I've had in my truck has been when I've put it in 4 low in the dirt, mud, or on gravel roads, because you get such nice throttle response and torque. The gearing makes such a difference. I plan on buying a rebuilt engine and swapping it out. I've done enough research to know that there are a ton of shops that sell rebuilt engines, but I do not know if there are any that are a lot better than all the rest. I was thinking about using the Engine Guy, because he is a veteran and a Texan like myself. If anyone has a strong recommendation, let me know. Thanks, Husmann
  8. miesk5, Thanks for your voluminous and speedy input. It is as I suspected. After reading through your post and the links that you included, I am fully convinced that a Mass Airflow conversion is not something I really want to tackle. In the meantime, I settled in on a bunch of bolt on mods that I think I will be really satisfied with and that will make my ride very street-able. Also, I am almost at the point in the teardown when it is time to pull the engine. At the same time, I would love to hear from any folks who have done the Mass Airflow conversion on this generation Bronc. Thanks again, Husmann
  9. It's finally time to build my 93' Bronco XLT 5.8L. I plan on getting a remanufactured engine because I really do not have the time or equipment/shop/tools to do an engine rebuild. The biggest issue is how much can I mod this engine in light of the speed density system and non-programable ECM? From what I understand, you can do some bolt-ons and perhaps a light cam, but anything more will not work with the stock ECM. A buddy of mine said that you can convert to a mass airflow system and then do whatever mods you want. In my reading through this forum, I have not come across anyone who has done this in my generation Bronco. I can't find any info on Mass Airflow Conversion here. My specific question for this post: Can this generation be converted to Mass Airflow? If so, is it even worth doing?
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