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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

shift1313

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About shift1313

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    Bronco Commander
  • Birthday 03/14/1981

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    shift1313
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    VA
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    Motorcycles, cars, trucks, jetskis.
  1. it must have been just the xlt lariats and not xlts then. I have had and seen several non towing package xlt lariats with dual shock fronts. For most steering stabilizers you will have to drill the cross member for one end of the mount. the other end uses u-bolts on one of the steering links
  2. Did your shift kit come with instructions on modding the gasket, opening passage sizes or removing any parts such as a ball bearing?
  3. you will get some rotation. The amount will depend on how "tight" your rear diff is. If there is excessive lash between the ring/pinion you will get more.
  4. on the 4x4 issue. is the lever on the Tcase physically moving when you shift into/out of 4x4? With the truck off, tranny in N and wheels blocked so the vehicle cant roll(and E brake) put the Tcase in 2hi and move your rear drive shaft, then put it in 4hi and do the same. On the key issue. Can you explain a little more on whats going on. After you swapped the cylinder, did it ever work? did you buy a cylinder/key set new or did you pull it from another vehicle.
  5. by the way the two suspension systems are totally different setups. Your TTB setup vs a solid axle trailing link setup. the articulation of the suspension members on the solid axle would be more severe than yours since it pivots on one point rather than floating on 4 points.
  6. 6" ttb lift with stock housings? Im not clear either on what you are trying to do with the tube through the spring. Are you talking about the bump stop on a TJ? here is a skyjacker 6" lift with 35s and a limit strap
  7. Well you have a few things to consider. An open diff is obviously an open diff, no mystery there. The stock 8.8 LSD rear end has clutch packs in it. Under normal driving it operates as an open diff until one wheel slips. You can change the friction or rather the amount of slip which it takes to "lock" by changing the plate configuration around. Lots of guys with mustangs do this. It sounds like this is what you want to do. Really your only other option is a Locker so you can select when both axles are locked together.
  8. No they dont. Standard was a single shock(upper coil mount bracket). You can convert by replacing the upper coil bracket(single is $90, dual is $100ea). on the bottom an additional bracket is added. I dont remember the exact conditions of the dual setup but i believe all xlt and xlt lariats came with duals as well as trucks with the towing package. I dont think motor options had anything to do with the setups.
  9. what year bronco? 96? there are a few different style spindle nuts but you will need the socket for your type. earlier hubs had a nut with holes that lines up with a washer with pins to help retain it. Later on ford went to a spring loaded setup. The same socket will work on both. even later(i think 92 but im not sure) saw a different style which i believe takes a different socket. Other than that you will need standard tools like allen keys, tools to remove internal and external snap rings, sockets and so on. How do you know you broke these parts if they havent been removed? What happened?
  10. you can pick rolling chassis and bodies up for not too much and cut what you need. The windsheild area will probably be the hardest. A new front 1/4 is about $100 from JBG or other vendors. Everything is fixable but like you said is it worth it. Im starting a resto now thats most certainly not worth it but the truck has sentimental value to me. You just have to decide what that magic price is for you and if its worth it.
  11. depends on your rims. a 12.5" tire will be a different width on an 8" rim vs a 10" rim. What are the specs of the rims you plan to run? I have 33x12.50s with no rubbing issues on wider/offset rims, but 31x10.50s rub the radius arm on stock rims.
  12. 80-91 were all pretty similar but i think92 made a big jump. I think if you replace all the way to the steering box maybe but i dont think the physical columns are interchangeable. Ive never tried though so its only a guess.
  13. so how many qts of fluid did you use? Did you check the level warm after running through the gears like joe said? What kind of fluid did you use? It sounds like the clutches are slipping. If it is a C6 tranny you should have used type CJ fluid. Its specifically made for C6 tranny.
  14. so did you get anywhere with the Tcase? Ive seen the fluid damped motor mounts split completely in half. If for some reason your motor mounts are shot and your tranny mount is shot I could see all this stuff moving. Does the Tcase move and the tranny and adapter stay still?
  15. a seal kit is like $15 to fix the leak. Either way you will need to pull the pitman arm. Also if there is slack in the steering box there is an adjustment on top that will preload the gears. Wandering could be a problem with your alignment. If you have some toe-out in the front end, the truck will want to wander. You want 0-1/8" of toe in and the truck will track better. I would figure out if the steering box is the problem before you swap it out. If you do its fairly straight forward once the pitman arm is off(which is usually a big paint).
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