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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

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  2. miesk5

    upper radiator hose

    99Yo Skitter, The bypass hose is available by Dayco; RADIATOR Bypass HOSE PART NUMBER: 70646 Back to results ATTRIBUTES SPECIFICATIONS Type Dual I.D. Hose Small ID (Frac) A 5/8 Small ID (Dec) A 0.63 Large ID (Frac) B 3/4 Large ID (Dec) B 0.75 Hose Length 5 1/2 Branch 0 More DAYCO parts @ http://www.daycoproducts.com
  3. diymirage

    upper radiator hose

    So what your saying is...i started a trend? I think that 5/8 hose actually has 2 different I D s, so keep an eye on it
  4. Skitter302

    upper radiator hose

    Ya know, I didn't have a coolant leak till I join'd in on this conversation. 🤣 Thankfully mine is just a bad 5/8 hose going from the intake to the water pump. Stop by O'reilly tomorrow and get a new one.
  5. diymirage

    upper radiator hose

    Yup, did that too Still leaking, so I bought an o ring water neck Should be here by Friday
  6. Looking for one or a set of this wheel. Cragar 3655155 15X10 5x5.5 3.75" BS. These wheels were also sold under different brand names. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, C
  7. Skitter302

    upper radiator hose

    One issue I had the the thermostat trying to fall out of the groove when I attached the water neck back on. I used a small dot of RTV to hold the T-stat in place and had no issues.
  8. diymirage

    upper radiator hose

    thanks SKitter, i went throught all the steps to get it right blocked the neck and the intake side to make sure nothing was warped mocked it up without washers to make sure the bolts werent bottoming out lines up the gasket with the intake, then filpped it over and lined it up with the waterneck to find out the bypass hose nipple was off by a bit, enough to leave hardly any meat for the gasket to seal on switched it our for a carquest version and everything seemed good for a few days went for a little ride yesterday, and found more water on top of the timing cover i will double check everything is tight, but it if is, im putting on a water neck with O rings
  9. Skitter302

    upper radiator hose

    I just had that issue with a paper gasket I try'd to install recently. It act'd like it melted. Got mine form O'reilly. Blue RTV and no more issues.
  10. Bully Bob

    75 brake issues

    KEWL..!!!! We here won't give up on ya..., it's probable just some little thing.... Those brakes should put ya thru the windshield...
  11. cdaye

    75 brake issues

    Yes, I did bleed in the sequence stated. I got the mc at Autozone, so I’ll take back and exchange and do the pads like you stated. I think that is what I did though. I’ll post some pics later. Chuck
  12. Bully Bob

    75 brake issues

    My bad.., mine has no adj. either. (must have been the Land Cruisers) Where you're at now.., sounds like the M/C still has issues. When I do drum brakes.., I put the drums on with the shoes lightly rubbing the drum when turning the drum by hand. That way, you don't have to mess with that adjustment tool. (they will break-in soon anyway) That's the only other thing that would cause what you describe. (way too loose shoes) EXCEPT.., you can get a new/faulty M/C these days. PS When you bled the wheel cyl. did you do right rear, left rear, right front, left front..? (this usually insures no air in the lines.) WHEN are we gonna see some (resto-rig) pics...?????
  13. cdaye

    75 brake issues

    It is non-power. I’ve done brakes before. I did bench bleed the mc before putting on. It is a dual reservoir. The issue before replacing the last mc (after replacing lines, wheel cylinders etc. during restoration)was if driving for awhile and you hit the brake, it would go to floor, but would pump up and work with constant use. Before all the lines, cylinders etc. replaced, not sure if they worked because that is when I got it and did the restore. Now the brake pedal goes toward floor and hard, but can’t pump up. Not sure what you mean by the push rod having to be adjusted. I don’t remember there being an adjustment. Chuck
  14. Bully Bob

    75 brake issues

    BTW., I have 4 wheel drums & my rig stops on a dime & gives 5c change. (no P/B) Ford built these rigs to "STOP" as well as ""GO" ----- don't let anyone tell you different.
  15. Bully Bob

    75 brake issues

    Hi cdaye.., A couple questions.. Do you have good experience working on power/non power hydraulic brakes.? BTW., which do you have.? Is the pedal hard when it stops moving or "squishy"..? "pressure differential valve" (porp. valve) is simply a "restrictor" ...., allowing LESS pressure to the rear so in medium/hi braking.., the back wheels won't lock up/skid. These rarely fail. However, they can get plugged with improper fluid maint. You likely have the dual M/C ...? They can be tricky to fully bleed. Also, the brake peal "push-rod" has to be adjusted properly or the M/C won't re-set correctly when pressure is released. Were the "good brakes" present B/4 you did these up-grades.? New shoes yes/no.? ---- "OVER" ----
  16. diymirage

    3rd row options

    got the third row in if it ever stop raining ill toss up some pics i decided to use square U bolts instead of door strikers, because it was one less thing to buy it all went pretty easy once i dropped the gas tank to get at the nuts in the back
  17. cdaye

    75 brake issues

    I have a 75 Bronco with drums all around. I’ve been having problem with the brake not applying. Pedal won’t go to the floor, but has limited braking. No leaks found. I have replaced all the brake lines, wheel cylinders, and master. I’m positive I have it bleed. The only thing not replaced is the proportioning valve and I can’t find a replacement. I searched and found this may also be called a pressure differential valve. Can this valve be rebuilt or does anyone know of this problem. I used to have good brakes.
  18. Earlier
  19. diymirage

    upper radiator hose

    Not quite, the Water neck is leaking Not pouring, about a drip every 2 seconds at idle I guess I'll tear it apart tomorrow and only use rtv instead of a papergasket with a thin coat of rtv like I did this time
  20. miesk5

    New EEC, Code 212

    Yo, DTC 211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall. Possible causes: Loose wires/connectors. Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.). On-board transmitter (2-way radio). ISSUE: '93-95 light truck vehicles with 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, or 7.5L gas engines may exhibit various driveability symptoms, such as no start, no spark, hesitation/stumble/stall/miss and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211. The symptoms may occur during any drive mode or at idle. These concerns may be caused by the shielding drain wire (Circuit 48.) cutting through the insulation of, and shorting to, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) wire (Circuit 395) or the spark output (SPOUT) wire (Circuit 929) near the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 60-pin connector. A protruding wire from Splice 145 may also cause the same concern as the wire strand shorts to the PIP, SPOUT, or the foil wrap surrounding the drain wire. ACTION: Inspect PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), Ignition Ground (IGN GND) - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK) for possible cut insulation from Circuit 48. Also, inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Mastic Tape. Refer to the following procedure for service details. SERVICE PROCEDURE 1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. If vehicle has the speed control option, remove the speed control servo bracket and position it out of the way for improved access. 3. Disconnect the connector at the Ignition Control Module (ICM - formerly TFI). 4. Unbolt the 60-pin connector from the PCM and pull the wiring up to work on. 5. Remove the 1" (25.4mm) diameter convoluted tubing from the wiring assembly. The date code tag will remain taped to the convoluted tubing. 6. Remove/cut the tape of the wiring assembly. Work toward the the ICM connector (pull back convoluted tubing as needed). 7. Unravel aluminum foil tape and electrical drain wire (Circuit 48.) from main bundle, exposing the junction or "Y" splice between the ICM tapeout and the PCM tapeout. Be careful with the foil wrap because it will be reused. NOTE: THE FOIL WRAP LENGTH WILL BE ABOUT 5" (127mm) BEYOND THE "Y" BRANCH. THE END WILL BE TOWARD THE ICM CONNECTOR. 8. After the foil wrap is removed, look for the three (3) "grouped" wires in question at the "Y" splice. The three (3) wires are: PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), IGN GND - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK). 9. Locate the (bare) electrical drain wire. Wire end is toward the ICM connector, again, about 5" (127mm) from the "Y" splice. Unravel wire from the top (ICM) end and down to the area where the bare wire makes contact with the three (3) wires mentioned above. 10. Inspect for any damage to the insulation of the three (3) wires in question. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Electrical Moisture Sealant-Mastic Tape (3M Part No. 054007-06147). 11. Inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands (Figure 3). If stray wire is found, apply pressure on the wire with pliers to bend the wire down and wrap the splice with three (3) layers of flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent, to ensure the wire does not make contact with other wires or the foil wrap. 12. Carefully rewrap the bare electrical drain wire and foil. Work backward, toward the ICM connector end. Tape end of foil wrap to secure. 13. Retape worked area securely (between PCM and ICM connectors) with flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent. 14. Reinstall all convoluted tubing and tape ends of tubing to the tubing with flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent. 15. Reinstall PCM connector to the PCM. 16. Reinstall the ICM connector. 17. Reinstall the speed control servo bracket (two bolts) if applicable, and tighten bolts to 15-18 N-m (11-13 lb-ft). 18. Reconnect battery ground cable. If you need the depictions, let me know.
  21. Skitter302

    New EEC, Code 212

    Been doing some google searching and had this thought, Code 212 and 211 are different issues correct? Or could they be the same?
  22. diymirage

    3rd row options

    in this video you can clearly see how the stock mounts are almost flush with the floor i understand it is nice to have a flat loading area, but it just isnt a concern for me, so i think the strikers are the way to go (in my application) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVKDqmEvUoI
  23. miesk5

    3rd row options

    To, ok, wish I knew that plan before
  24. diymirage

    3rd row options

    Considered doing that, 2 reasons I don't want to First of, cost. It seems the going rate for a set of brackets is 50 dollars, and I need 2 of them More importantly, they would not be a direct bolt on On the tahoes, these brackets lay across a pocket, and the latch of the seats Goss in that pocket, so if I want to use the stock brackets I would need to either raise them up, or build those pockets into the floor Either way, it would require more work then going with door strikers (Not to mention, I used to work for a company that makes these for GM, so I think I can get 24 matched ones for a good price)
  25. miesk5

    3rd row options

    Yo D, Check e may for mounts because 06:28 PM 08-18-2009 Quote: Originally Posted by EODTRAVELER Very sweet on the Tahoe seats. How much modding did you have to do to make them fit? If I can find TWO third row seats i'm going to do it. How much did you pay? Bronco-In-Training replied, "I got both sets of tahoe seats on Craigslist. There always seems to be some on there because I guess some people don't need them. It took quite a bit of fabrication on the middle row because the front of the seats mount over the ledge. Total cost for both sets was about $650. I was going to try and fab up the mounting brackets, but I decided to just buy some off ebay."
  26. miesk5

    upper radiator hose

    Yo, Good job!
  27. diymirage

    upper radiator hose

    Looks like I got this figured out
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