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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

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  1. Yesterday
  2. Yo Mike, Purchase the Red orifice tube for r134a. See https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/246081-going-convert-r134a-i-want-do-right.html post by pfun41 for more info. ○ see my site for more conversion links @ http://schwimserver5.com/index.php?index=498
  3. Skitter302

    87-92? AC Orifice Tube Replacement - How to

    Looking to convery my system to the 134a stuff, what is the new Orifice size I should buy? At NAPA I see the red one on the shelf and Red is also the color included in the photo. Is that indeed the correct part that I need to buy?
  4. Last week
  5. Yo e, Thanks! Looking FWD to your flush article. Again, thank you. Al
  6. entity-unknown

    87-92? AC Orifice Tube Replacement - How to

    You're welcome Mike! Your site is where I started 16 years ago and I try to help you out when I can. I even added tags I'll post a pic of my flush setup here soon too. Easy peasy cuz tools with a full rebuild puts you on a budget
  7. Yo e, Thanks much! Here is the A/C Orifice Tube Replacement in 1996 Bronco/F-Series from the 96 Workshop Manual @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjc3a40.htm ○ And, A/C System Filtering @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjc3a46.htm Ford wrote this up as part of compressor failure inspection & replacement.
  8. Hopefully this is the best pic you will ever see to explain how to replace this I searched around and sure diagrams and written explanations but sometimes a pic just helps.... You need the 1/2 plastic A/C / Fuel line disconnect tool. You also need a set of long, skinny needle nose pliers. I used Harbor Freight Item#63815 I need a 3/4 wrench and 5/8 wrench for the two disconnection points closest to the accumulator for the nuts near the radiator for the condenser. Remove the large nut suggested above with the 3/4 wrench using the 5/8 to hold onto the fixed hex nut closest to the nut you're working on for support. Use the 1/2 A/C line separator tool and slip it ON to the metal tube going to the evaporator just BELOW the larger round section at the end of the hose that goes to the condenser. Press up and seat the 1/2" A/C line separator tool into the condenser hose to you expand the spring lock ring. You'll feel it but spin it around once you feel you're good to make sure you're good. Because you were smart and disconnected the condenser line near the radiator, you can now spin the hose near the evaporator and pull up. Do it with precision and finesse and it will pop out. Don't force it or you'll bend the line and hate life. NOW you can see your orifice tube!!! If you look at an angle with a nice shiny light from above and your head isn't in the way. Yes it's kinda deep in there. Now comes the "fun". Pour some new refrigerant oil meant for your new setup and let it sit for a few minutes. 10-15 is good. Grab the top of the orifice tube down deep in there with the tips of the needle nose pliers. Keep them mostly compressed so you can grab that tiny lil tab on the top. Now comes the hardest part. Do NOT F' this up. JUST BARELY like 1/16, Twist a bit to the right then to the left. Start very gently with barely any movement. You will feel it begin to move easily and then increase then turns just a tiny lil bit more. If you exceed an 1/8 of a turn you'll probably break it and have fun extracting. Now you feel it's reasonably loose, squeeze hard on the pliers and pull STRAIGHT up. Brace yourself and try to use both arms to pull straight up because you need the most precision and both arms will offer it even if your back hates you. It will slip a few times and then pop out. Roughing up the inside tips of your new pliers will help provide some traction. I used a file and cut .5 mm separate lines with 2 cuts 1 each at opposing 45 degree angles. It will come out. Just keep trying but if you did the above it will be the easiest you'll chance you have. Have fun! So now you have it out! Just drop the new one in exactly as you see it aligned on the pic with the long red/blue part facing the sky and the short white part facing down. Hopefully that's exactly the same orientation when you pulled it too
  9. Earlier
  10. Yo, Here ya go pal! Camper Top; Cross-Section Structure pics in 80-96; Chris said that thye metal structure is about an 1/8-3/16" thick Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) The steel "roll bar" inside the factory 78-91 Bronco camper shell is glued into the fiberglass, but not bolted to the bedwalls. All fullsize Broncos (78-96) have a steel "roll bar" integrated into the rear edge of the fiberglass camper shell. In 92, the bar was improved & extended forward so it could be retained by 2 of the bolts, and the alignment pins were moved onto the bar, pointing down into the bedrails..." Shortened info & pics in a 91 Source: by jtg (Jackson) at "The flat part of the top is pretty thin, how ever you can reinforce the flat section by laminating a flat section from an other top to the in side. I've done this to a couple of tops that I have shortened and it makes a big difference." Here is some pics of a cut up top and inside laminated of a shortened top.    Painting info; 1 DO NOT use chemical stripper (I was stripping the entire truck) it's made of SMC(sheet molded compound) and the texture is sprayed on 2 Dont use a DA. You'll sand the splatter pattern off it 3 Scuff it with red scuff pads (3M) 4 Seal with epoxy primer (I used PPG DP-40) 5)Paint, but mix with the desired amount (25-30%) of flattening agent (PPG DX685 - this stuff is weird/smells bad but works; unshaken/unstirred it looks like a sticky golf ball soaking in what I perceive elephant *** would look like). Too much flattening agent and the top will become chalky after a few yews and too little makes it look funny (too glossy). My truck is the newer '98 Expedition white (paint code YZ maybe). I used PPG, DAU product line on this one. If you do this is how I mixed: Color (DAU)16oz; Hardener(DU2)16 oz; Flattener(DX685)10oz (up to 12); Reducer 1.5- 2 oz. The PPG DX685 Chart on the cut sheet is helpful on other PPG lines; Form P-162 (9/96)..." Source: by j. r. Nice (J. R. N)
  11. hey guys, i picked up a second top for my bronco yesterday once i determine which one has the best seals, i will knock the glass out of the other one and make it a "summer top" i also want to cut a hole in the roof, and then make a custom "tonneau cover" in case i get caught in the rain so, anything i need to know before i start this project?
  12. miesk5

    Need help with Bronco dimensions and measurements

    Yo, I have some Exhaust Sound Clips @ http://schwimserver5.com/index.php?index=574 Other 78-96 Bronco sites are: https://m.facebook.com/FullSizeBronco maintained by https://www.fullsizebronco.com which is best place to obtain sound clips. http://www.superford.org/forums/threads.php?topicid=21 same owner as here! http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/cmps_index.php http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/9-ford/ https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum44/ but I see you are there already http://www.blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/forum/46-bronco-forum/ https://www.fordforumsonline.com/forums/ford-bronco.33/ not much activity http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?s=fb776abecde5cb9c8a0be5ac04647dc9&f=1089 not much activity http://www.offroadexchange.com/modforums/index.php?PHPSESSID=lq18prv1rr93qadkva33em69d6&#c5 not much activity https://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/ has some Bronco owners http://bb.bc4x4.com/forumdisplay.php?12-Ford has some Bronco owners GL! Al
  13. DavidMWilmes

    Need help with Bronco dimensions and measurements

    Sweet i really appreciated everything you've done already!!!!! i didnt notice you were on the other bronco page aswell do you know any facebook ford or bronco groups? Thank you so much, guys!!!!. great stuff! ill be getting to the 78 in due time. I want a whole fleet of Ford trucks 1 of each gen pretty much! Okay guys, here is something I need done, probably from a handful of people. SOUND these I will have to keep track of so that I have at least 2-3 copies of each. Do you know of any other bronco/ford group or forums? shot me the link or tell them about my project. I need all the help I can get. okay for the details. three positions- Driver seat (windows up), Engine bay, exhaust(close by not close enough that its all distorted.) 1. Cold start 2. Warm Start? 3. Starting idle 4. normal idle I will need a decent variety of RPM sounds also 1k 2k etc as high as someone will go. now these rpm sounds have to be held at that particular rpm for a very short amount of time in single clips. Now I cant send you any audio equipment for this and I wish I could to get the sounds perfect. but I can do that later honestly. So making sure there aren't people talking or background noise. Little things I should be able to cancel out... but I need just truck sounds. Also sound of the back window rolling up and then rolling down. I can try to put the power steering pump whine noise too if someone can get it for me... Thanks everyone!
  14. Bully Bob

    75 brake issues

    Well......????
  15. miesk5

    1994 302 into a 1993

    Yo CJ, Speed Density to Mass Air Conversion & Parts List with Cost in a 93 F150, 5.0, E4OD; "...For this article, I will be doing a 93 Ford F-150, 5.0, E4OD trans. Because they don't make a kit for this, I will be re-wiring the harness, and using a PCM and MAF out of a 95 f-150, 5.0, E4OD. If you have a truck with a non-electronic Trans, like the old AOD's, or C-6's, etc, you can use a MAF conversion kit..." Read More Source: by Mike C at http://web.archive.org/web/20101008161856/http://www.eecperformance.com:80/mafconversion.html Speed Density to Mass Air Conversion for Bronco & F 150; "...To convert SD trucks with E4OD/AODE transmissions to MAF, some people use the CA 5.8 MAF/E4OD (F5TF-12A650-BYA). Mike Wesley says he uses the F5TF-12A650-HB (95 CA 5.0 MAF/E4OD) on a 750+ HP daily driver 415 stroker Lightning with a Vortech S trim. It runs open loop, has been reprogrammed, drives like stock, gets 17 MPG and will run low 10’s at 130+ in the 1/4 mile and A/C and cruise work great. Both of these EEC’s are set to use 4.10 gears. If a smaller ratio is used, say 3.55, you could use the F5TF-12A650-GB. There are probably 15-20 EEC’s available to convert a SD (later model) to MAF (some of these may compromise the ability to stay emissions legal). If you have an early SD truck with AOD, re-wire to the Mustang EEC (Ford MotorSport sells this kit). You’ll have to move/add quite a few wires, and you might not like the results if you’re not able to re-calibrate the EEC (like the Pro-M ’low cost’ kit, Kenne Bell, LCA and Downs Ford come pre-re-calibrated). The engine shuts down at 85 MPH, shifting is fairly sloppy and too early (at least on a Lightning). All Ford EECs shift poorly -- except for the Lightning, which is only slightly firmer. To use the Mustang EEC on a truck with an E4OD/AODE, you would need to run two EECs in parallel. The Mustang EEC runs the engine, the existing truck EEC controls the trans. Pro-M sells a kit like this..." READ MUCH MORE Source: by Tom C □
  16. miesk5

    1994 302 into a 1993

    Yo CJ, Ford 5.0 went to HO in 94 with different firing order and plug wire routing, ○ 93 5.0; From a fading memory, the HO has a MAF sensor, IF SO, you will need the PCM, AKA, EEC IV from the 94 and if you have E4OD, the PCM must be from an E4OD equipped Bronco.
  17. miesk5

    1994 302 into a 1993

    Yo CJ, Ford 5.0 went to HO in 94 with different firing order and plug wire routing, ○ 93 5.0;
  18. I have rebuilt a 1994 302 and placed it into a 1993 bronco. Not able to start engine. Engine cranks but will not fire. Have spark and fuel to injectors. I have the 1993 wiring harness in place. I need some ideas on which direction to head in the troubleshooting process. Is it an air sensor issue? Is this something that can be jumped out just to make it run? Any help would be appreciated.
  19. diymirage

    clunk clunk clunk

    thanks, will do
  20. miesk5

    clunk clunk clunk

    Yo, Ok, check wheel bearing. Buzzing Noise in Front Axle in Two-Wheel Drive, Shortly After Four-Wheel Drive Usage Right or left side hublock. REPLACE hublocks as necessary.
  21. diymirage

    clunk clunk clunk

    thanks Miesk, but the noise is coming from way down low, by the front wheel in fact, its the inside wheel (doesnt matter which way i turn)
  22. miesk5

    clunk clunk clunk

    Yo D, Here are some possible perpetrators from Ford in a 96; Noise in Steering Column Clunk Steering column intermediate shaft coupling bottoming. ALIGN or ADJUST as required. Loose steering column intermediate shaft coupling to steering column bolt. TIGHTEN to specification. Improperly adjusted steering gear. ADJUST to specification (meshload only). REFER to Section 11-02B or Section 11-02D. Miesk5 note, avoid doing this! Power Steering or Accessory Belt Squealing Check belt for proper tension or glazing. For C-II pump, the pump would be damaged due to excessive fluid temperatures of 149°C (300°F) or higher. Dark fluid with a burnt smell will confirm. TIGHTEN or REPLACE belt as required. REFER to Section 03-05.For CII pump, REPLACE pump and PURGE old fluid. ADD Motorcraft MERCON ® ATF XT-2-QDX or MERCON® equivalent. Pump Noisy Low fluid level and possible leakage. REFILL to specified level. PURGE air from system. CHECK for leaks. REPAIR as required. If noise persists, REPLACE pump. Swish Type Noise Fluid flow into the bypass valve of the pump valve housing with fluid temperature below 55°C (130°F). Normal noise. Whine Type Noise Aerated fluid or cam contour damaged. Worn or damaged valve O-ring seal. PURGE system of air. If condition not resolved, REPLACE pump. GO to Pinpoint Test D .
  23. miesk5

    installing rear wheelstuds

    Yo D, This is by Ford for 96 Bronco, but same for your 85, Wheel Hub Bolt SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number C-Frame and Clamp Assembly T74P-3044-A1 Removal Raise the vehicle and install safety stands. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04. Remove the brake drum (1126) from the axle shaft or wheel hub bolts as described in this section. CAUTION: Never use a hammer to remove the stud. Damage to the hub or bearing may result. Using C-Frame and Clamp Assembly T74P-3044-A1, press the wheel hub bolt from its seat in the rear hub (1109). The lug bolt (1107) may also be removed by pressing it out using an appropriate sized socket and C-clamp. Discard the wheel hub bolt. Installation Insert new wheel hub bolt in hole in the axle shaft (4234) or rear hub. Rotate wheel hub bolt slowly aligning serrations with those made by the original wheel hub bolt. Place four flatwashers over the outside end of the wheel hub bolt and thread the lug nut (1012) with the flat side against the washers. CAUTION: Do not use air tools as the serrations may be stripped from the stud. Tighten the lug nut until the wheel hub bolt head seats against the back side of the shaft or hub. Remove lug nut and washers. Install brake drum and wheel (1007). Lower the vehicle. I used large copper cable lugs
  24. diymirage

    installing rear wheelstuds

    hey guys i had a bit of adverse luck with my bronco today and i need some advice i lost a wheel, snapped off one stud and galled up the other four i going to replace them all BUT i do not want to pull the axleshaft out (it a rear one) now, there is enough room there with the backing plate still installed that i can feed the studs in from the back normally i would use a press or a BFH to seat them, but i cant do that with the axle still in can i put a few washers down and just use a lugnut to draw it in? or do you guys have a different trick ?
  25. diymirage

    clunk clunk clunk

    thats how the front end sounds when i turn slowly oh, and add some scraping to that as well now, i know this is a very broad description, but does it sound familiar to anyone?
  26. miesk5

    Bushwacker Extend a Flares

    Yo 7879, Hang in here, never know when they will pop up. Also look at https://broncograveyard.com/registry/vehicles?for_sale=1 I did a very quick search with no results,so, try periodically. Jeff's is our sole sponsor. ⊙ For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;https://www.hollanderparts.comA yard that uses Hollander Interchange can search other yards and have it shipped.Can select certain partsHas Vehicle Pics for some vehiclesIf a specific part, such as the tailgate torsion bar isn't listed, search again for the next higher assembly, such as in this instance, the tailgate. So, I just dis a very limited search for; for 1979 Ford Bronco Rear Body Quarter Panel Assembly 02141L Left . Some pics show one rear side, so click on pics that don't show either rear quarter. If no-go, search for right side....orhttp://www.car-parts.com/Can select certain partsCan search by year range, such as 92 through 96 & has best item condition descriptions such as "COVER BAD LEATHER PWR BKT GRY"Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles incl. interior/dash, back seat, front & rear and engine bay...http://www.picknpull.comThis is a Company name w/yard locations in various statesCan NOT Select certain partsHas Vehicle Pics for some vehicleshttp://row52.com/SearchCan NOT Select certain partsHas Vehicle Pics for some vehicles AND Want a Part? It's Easy...1. You create a Parts Wanted Listing.2. Parts Pullers respond with offers.3. You pick the best one.A Parts Puller gets the parts you need.****for obsolete parts by Ford long version pn:http://www.partsvoice.com/http://www.rearcounter.comhttp://www.greensalescompany.com https://nospartsltd.com&For new discounted Ford parts:https://consumerlink.oeconnection.com/91554453363118850 (suggested by JScatt!)
  27. 7879Bronc

    Bushwacker Extend a Flares

    Bump- still looking
  28. miesk5

    Need help with Bronco dimensions and measurements

    Yo David, I edited the tire info etc in my post of Saturday at 08:54 AM all apply to our 96 XL. Most apply to other years depending on which options the buyer chooses. One issue is that my 96 XL tire size is now 32x11.50 x 15.
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