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  1. Today
  2. Engine Acc. Brackets

    Had a 302 and currently have a 351 that was rebuilt by the previous owner 46k ago. I like how the 302 intake fits lower in the engine bay due to the shorter height of the block, the engine ides smoother, snappier to the throttle, and has a lighter sound then the 351. I don't think the 351 is a bad engine I just like the 302 better.
  3. Freelance Mechanic looking to give back to the broncozone community (i

    thanks man. appreciate your feedback on many of the topics on here. this forum's been a big help to me for a lot of ford stuff. i hope to give some info back and whatnot.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Cant adjust my timing

    yo, read this to make removal of the wires going to the injectors and all the sensors and such easier, I needed to disconnect the fuel lines using this tool to unlock the connection my finger is pointing in the direction the tool has to go in order to unlock the connection and there is another, larger connection to the left of this one If I show the wrong location, ask the AZ person for the correct tool. Quick-Disconnect Fittings Overview & Diagrams; Fittings.JPG | Hits: 7412 | Size: 78.22 KB | Posted on: 7/12/03 | Link to this image Fittings : i don't know what is in your 89, so look through this info: "I prefer the small scissor (5/16" & 3/8"). The large scissor is for the fuel rail fittings, and some A/C quick-connects. Older trucks use a duckbill plastic clip to retain the fittings, so only a flathead screwdriver is needed. " read and see more pics" @ http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2742/12737-2
  6. Cant adjust my timing

    So I removed the Alan wrench and changed out my lower intake gasket. It took awhile because the 2 front bolts on the lower intake busted. It looked like whoever worked on this before me filled the the threading located in the heads with some sort of silicone/jb weld. Had to drill and tap. So I got everything put back together and fired her up. Immediately smelled gas and found the disconnect line leading to the rail (under the FPR) was leaking a copious amount of gasoline. It's snapped in and secure. It looks like the leak is coming from the back of the stupid disconnect connector thing. I'm about to get a ride to autozone to get some hose clamps and I'll see if that will work for the time being. Any idea on how to replace the bugger? The fuel line WILL NOT come off the connecter/thing on the back. Almost feels like there is a spring or something holding the fuel line on....
  7. Engine Acc. Brackets

    why in the world would you want to go with that much a smaller engine? just rebuild the 351
  8. Last week
  9. What Did you Do With Your Bronco Today???

    Who knows at this point, could of been random and come loose, could of been stolen.When replacing the nut I just wanted all of my lugs to match and the Local LesSchawb had these fancy ones for the right price so I went for it. And I made sure these were tight. Speaking of Fancy things added this too,
  10. Yo, Think someone needed a lug nut?
  11. Yo Robert, Good to see you here again! Razorback hasn't logged in here since Dec, but may have seen your reply. Be well! Al
  12. Fixed: alternator overcharging/runs battery dead with key off

    nice! happy that worked out for you in the long run upgrading to the 3g. the 2g's have crummy connectors on them too which overheat/fall off because the tab broke off a decade ago. the regulator itself features a solid state transistor which can fail in open or closed state. it's pretty easy to id a 'failed open' regulator as the voltage drops like a typical dead alternator does. but a failed closed regulator will typically look great at idle (sometimes overcharged) and then ya hit the gas and it's boiling the battery.
  13. Freelance Mechanic looking to give back to the broncozone community (i

    @Razorbackdidn't see this till now haha. i don't log in very often unfortunately but hope you got the blower figured out as it's been a while. with stuff that's been rewired it can be a little tougher to resolve the issue, but if you have experience with a multimeter or test light i'd try to get a voltage read at the blower motor first and see if it's missing the voltage or ground side of the circuit. if the wiring is somewhat like how ford wired it still, than the positive side is fed by a fused circuit which get's power from the ignition switch, and the negative side is returning to a chassis ground via the dashboard blower switch and the blower resistor. try to backprobe the connector with the red multimeter lead (black lead to a stable ground like neg battery terminal) and see if you have 12 ish volts on either terminal. if you have 12v on both connections, it means the ground side of the circuit failed. if you have no voltage on either, then i'd look upstream of the voltage side. if the ac compressor doesn't cycle when you turn it on, it might indicate a voltage issue as the ac and blower i believe do not share grounds... these systems do draw a lot of current so they are subject to thermal stresses from usage. i have seen a fair share of burnt connectors on those blower circuits... ac clutches draw an ok amount too. hope this helps you (or someone) out there. cheers!
  14. What Did you Do With Your Bronco Today???

    Finally got a nice day to work on the Bronco, but not what I had planned. Lost my lug nut some where so I had to make that a priority. Went ahead and replaced all 20 with new ones from LesSchawb. Done.
  15. Random pop-up on my Youtube stream of this Boss Bronco. Thought I would share, As of the time of this post this video is only a week old. What do you guys think, did Ford make a mistake by not putting the Boss Bronco into Production?
  16. Engine Acc. Brackets

    Lol, thats a lot of info for what I was hoping was just a yes or no question Just wondering beause I wanted to save on the cost and hassle of new brackets. Thanks for all the links. The deal for the 1994 302 HO fell through but I'm keeping my eyes open for another engine.
  17. Engine Acc. Brackets

    Yo, 96 5.0 front view http://s837.photobucket.com/user/chrisrudeau/media/96 bronco/IMG_5020_zpsicnz7fwl.jpg.html http://s837.photobucket.com/user/chrisrudeau/media/96 bronco/IMG_5020_zpsicnz7fwl.jpg.html by Njbronco74
  18. Engine Acc. Brackets

    Yo, TS 90150 wrote; "When I swapped my 90 from 302 to 351 the brackets are the same. Just more holes. The 351 uses the widest while the 302 uses the narrower ones. This is on a serpentine pulley system," he has a 90 F150, but I'm pretty sure it is same as Bronco.
  19. Engine Acc. Brackets

    Yo, 1996 5.0 Source: by David C (Zak the Bronc, Big Green and Ugly, Dangling Dave) - Bronco Air York OBA installation, Saginaw installation
  20. Engine Acc. Brackets

    Yo pal, Here are pics of a 130 amp (3G) Installation in an 93 Bronco 5.8 by Bobby showing location. http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/35149-93-bronco-95-amp-130-amp-conversion.html My 96 5.0 has alternator in same location. 93 5.0 Alternator pic by kingpinfarr (My Lil Mule) ... same as in my 96 5.0 I checked Engine Conversion Kits for Bronco & Ford Trucks (sales catalog w/pics & descriptions) at http://www.landlproducts.comSource: by L&L landlproducts.com butnothing for your year, but give them a call. 1994 5.0Source: by rooster454 (Hellga) - engine bay pic, passenger side w/fender, bumper, grille & head light trim removed in a 95 5.0 @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/19133/71488-2 1994 5.0 Saginaw Power steering pump brackets: Source: by pfun41 1995 5.0 Source: by exfrog1985 - engine bay pic from front 1995 5.0 Source: by just_a_warning (Gronco) - engine bay pics hI http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/933953/thumbnail/100_2304.jpg[/img] See more pics at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/24908/79955-2 Same as my 96 5.0 Will look for bracket pics soon
  21. Engine Acc. Brackets

    Are the Accessory Brackets on my 351w the same as a 302? Only reason I'm asking is I want to put a 302 in my Bco. I'm in the planning stages now and want to make sure I don't need different Brackets for the A/C or Alt or stuff like that. Currently working on a deal for a 302 HO that is out of a 1994 Mustang.
  22. Yo, As a guess, PCV valve is on passenger side.
  23. Long story short, I just changed my egr tube and was about to start putting the upper intake back on when I thought I would make sure my FPR was on tight enough. That's when I dropped my Alan wrench down one of the runners....like a dumbass I didn't cover the lower intake up lol. So I pulled the lower Intake out to retrieve that little bastard and I decided to pull the valve covers to clean/change gaskets. That's when I noticed that there was a large amount of build up under the P/S valve cover and the valves were extremely dirty. However the D/S was extremely clean. Like suspiciously clean... Any ideas? Bad headgasket? Thanks for helping a noob. Bought my bronco almost 2 years ago and havnt looked back since
  24. Yo,

    Hope all is well my friend!!!!

  25. Earlier
  26. Yo, Manual Hub OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS: ONLY use fingers to turn dials. DO NOT USE PLIERS. Set the hublock dials to FREEand transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive. To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to LOCK and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low. Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks. Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel rive because it can cause drive train damage. Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between FREE and LOCK or it will damage the hublocks. Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage. Driving with the hublocks in Free ™ and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage. To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..." Source: by Warn® Many owners when driving on in snow/icesurfaces and then getting on dry surfaces usually keep hubs locked, then shift to and from 4x4 high. Some drive train wear can occur, but I haven't anything happen since buying our 96 new and driving in a snow state. "...The t-case disconnects the front driveshaft from the transmission, and the hubs disconnect the axleshafts from the wheels. The driveshaft is ALWAYS connected to the diff & axleshafts. Depending on how tight your diff is, both axleshafts MAY turn when you turn the d'shaft while BOTH hubs are unlocked, but at least one of them has to no matter what. If the d-shaft won't turn with both front wheels off the ground (or the hub locks removed), then the t-case is still in 4. If either axleshaft won't turn with its hub UNlocked AND the t-case in 2 or N, then that hub is stuck locked. I suspect you'll find some carmelized grease, and some surface rust on the lock rings, and probably a spring or 2 heavily rusted, to the point that they're ruined. But that's just a guess. Take both hub locks OUT of the hubs, and then roll the truck a little. You don't need to remove the tires, or even jack the front end up since the locks don't bear ANY weight. If the d'shaft still turns, the problem is in your t-case....."by Steve
  27. 87 Bronco 351 auto manual hubs let me run this by you guys, see if i understand it correctly in order to shift from 2H to 4H i need to lock both front hubs what would happen if i run the transfer case in 4H with the hubs free? will it just act as a "open rear end" spinning whatever wheel has the least traction, or will this cause actual damage? and i guess the same goes for running with the front hubs locked in 2H, any negative effects of this?
  28. How to read bolt heads

  29. The '66 year model (most) has the vin tag on the driver side kick-panel.., just left of the clutch pedal.
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