Steering Problems

Just bought a 75 Bronco. Truck about changes lanes at highway speed when on really rough road or when holes are hit. Have 35 X 12.5 X 15 tires and smaller than stock steering wheel. The previous owner lifted but didn't do any steering upgrades. The power steering system has no noticable slack. Any help would be appreciated in solving this problem. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

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You also mention that you know the p.o. didn't modify the steering linkage.

If the track bar and the drag link don't have similar angles, you will end up with some pretty nasty "bump steer"

Depending on the amount of lift you have, you may need a track bar drop bracket, an adjustable track bar, a drop pitman arm, "custom" steering linkage or any combination of the above.

Since there are no other "mods" done to correct for the lift, did the p.o. use poly bushings or radius arm drop brackets to correct for caster?

Thanks for the reply STLKIKN but were you speeking greek? Sounded like greek to me. The po told me the alignment was correct. Bump steer sounds like the correct definition for what happens but I am not very familiar with steering components. Is there a more ENGLISH remedy you could propose or maybe I should just take it to a repair shop since none of those part names are familiar to me

If you took it to a shop and they told you the alignment was good then they hade to of checked the steering components. does it only pull at higher speeds or does it do it all the time?

I haven't taken it to a garage. The po told me it was in line. Is the track arm what I would call the tie rod linkage. And just so I understand, the pitman arm connects to the drag link and the drag link connects to the tie rod linkage. The tie rod linkage has ball joints on both ends and is used to set the tracking of the front tires via adjustment of the connecting rod tube?

So, as I see it, the pitman arm/drag link angle should have changed when the po rose the body. Since I didn't see the Bronco before the mods I have no idea what it looked like before. So in short, if those two armsare not parallel to each other the steering system is inadequate and needs to be corrected.

Hey rookie,

sorry if I was too technical!

the tie rod runs from wheel to wheel.

the drag link runs from the tie rod to the steering box.

the pitman arm is the connection from the drag link to the steering box

on these points you were correct

The track bar does not connect to any of these components.

Instead it is located just behind the steering linkage.

it is bolted to the differential (just behind the tie rod) and connects to the frame just behind the steering box.

The track bar and the drag link need to be as close as possible to parallel

IN RELATION TO EACH OTHER!

The attached pic is for reference only.... it was taken from an angle with the wheels turned, and therefor doesn't show a true parallel relationship.

(also I must add, the pic was taken off another EB website showing a Chev tre swap)

I bet its the trac bar. The bushings do not last long. I have to replace mine every 6 months. Soon I'll get heim joints to fix this. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth with the engine off and tires on the ground and you look at the trac bar mounts and steering knuckles and see if they are moving back and fourth. If so you need to replace them. If the steering wheel can go back and fourth with engine off the steering box can be tightened up on the allen on top of the box. Only turn one or two turns max. This will take out the slop in the steering box.

Check the wheel bearings by jacking up a tire and wobbeling it around.

Eric

DO NOT turn the adjustment ***** more than 1/8 of a turn at a time. You can ruin an otherwise good box very easily by over tightening this adjustment witout test driving it between adjustments.

( Sorry Broncoholics, but he is VERY green at turning his own wrenches)

On a side note to Broncoholics, why do you go through so many track bar bushings?? I have had the same set of poly track bar bushings in my 69 for about ten years, (four different lifts) and have had NO problems with them.

A little harsh on the greenhorn arn't we. we all appreciate the expert info you have to offer but if you have to belittle, personaly , I'd rather not take your advise or your s#*t. We all started somewhere you might do well to remember that!!

I agree you should only turn the adjustment ***** 1/8 turn at a time inbetween test driving but don't go over one full turn...

I go thru the trac bar bushings fast because I run a wristed rasiud arm and have tons of front axle flex and use the bronco for off-road use only. Also I drive her hard and we go to the dunes often so all the erratic and wreckless driving takes a toll. The 38.5" tires could also have something to do with it. )

To wildbill...

Check your e-mail.

To Eric,

now I understand....

i bought 1 several months ago and it was doing the same thing and i came to find out that the trac bar bushing were bad and replaced them and now it steers like a porsche

and the bushings r like 3 dollars