I have a 79' custom Bronco and i ran it through the mud and when i parked it i tried to bring the hubs out of lock and they wouldn't turn so i took them off and they were all mud!? Is there something wrong or are they not sealed?
Off that subject kinda can you purchase automatic locking hubs for the 79'?
Thanx
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79 custom Why can't I get the hubs wet?
#2
Posted 20 June 2005 - 07:15 PM
Water, being thinner then grease, will find any crack or open to flow into. The seals on the back sides of your hubs may be bad and this is how the mud is getting into your hubs. Every manual, or even the instructions for the hubs themselves, tell you to clean the hubs out after slogging through mud or water. I would also check your axle pumpkins as well as water may have gotten in through the breather hose. This is what happened to my front axle pumpkin to the guy I bought it from and I had to replace everything.
79 Bronco with a 351M bored .030 over.
Edlebrock intake and cam.
C-6 w/ AO4D guts upgrade.
33 MTR's w/ 3 inch Rancho lift.
4.11 gears w/locker in the rear.
Encoding altimeter from a CH-46D
Cockpit map light from a MH-53E
Edlebrock intake and cam.
C-6 w/ AO4D guts upgrade.
33 MTR's w/ 3 inch Rancho lift.
4.11 gears w/locker in the rear.
Encoding altimeter from a CH-46D
Cockpit map light from a MH-53E
#3
Posted 20 June 2005 - 10:29 PM
Well since you're gonna have it all torn down anyway....
You should probably replace the wheel bearings and the wheel bearing seal, pull the spindles off and replace the spindle bearing and associated seals as well....
There should be a rubber o-ring on your locking hub... it may have deteriorated and fallen out, or someone failed to replace it. Your spindle seals may have failed as well.
When greasing a locking hub of any type, I use nothing thicker than either white lithium or red spray type grease.... anything thicker will prevent the hub from locking up in colder weather... As you go to assemble the locking portion to the bearing hub, put a bead of silicone around the o ring surface, it will help keep water etc from entering the hubs.
You could retro fit a set of auto hubs to your truck, but why???
A well maintained set of quality manual hubs should outlast your truck!!
You should probably replace the wheel bearings and the wheel bearing seal, pull the spindles off and replace the spindle bearing and associated seals as well....
There should be a rubber o-ring on your locking hub... it may have deteriorated and fallen out, or someone failed to replace it. Your spindle seals may have failed as well.
When greasing a locking hub of any type, I use nothing thicker than either white lithium or red spray type grease.... anything thicker will prevent the hub from locking up in colder weather... As you go to assemble the locking portion to the bearing hub, put a bead of silicone around the o ring surface, it will help keep water etc from entering the hubs.
You could retro fit a set of auto hubs to your truck, but why???
A well maintained set of quality manual hubs should outlast your truck!!
Visit the shop here, www.modernmotors.com
Serving Canadians since 1948.
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Running tally...16 over the last 20 years.
2nd owner 68, well used 69, two 73s and a 77 are currently in the stable.
Serving Canadians since 1948.
(O===O)
There's a fine line between a hobby and a mental illness...
Running tally...16 over the last 20 years.
2nd owner 68, well used 69, two 73s and a 77 are currently in the stable.
#4
Posted 28 June 2005 - 04:41 PM
i agree with them
mine has been through mud and water to the moulding on the sides and i havent had any problems unless it sits in water for extended period of time.
mine has been through mud and water to the moulding on the sides and i havent had any problems unless it sits in water for extended period of time.
Justin K.
78 bronco custom
351m (approx.350 hp 400 tq) blowed it up, now stock 400
6.5 inch superlift
39.5 tsl
finally got 4.88 gears
detroit locker in rear
my super motors page
78 bronco custom
351m (approx.350 hp 400 tq) blowed it up, now stock 400
6.5 inch superlift
39.5 tsl
finally got 4.88 gears
detroit locker in rear
my super motors page
#5
Posted 06 July 2005 - 02:06 PM
like the others have stated.
if you really want auto hubs ya get a set from from the late 80's to 95 F150/bronco's and they'll swap right in. but be for warned auto hubs suck.
if you really want auto hubs ya get a set from from the late 80's to 95 F150/bronco's and they'll swap right in. but be for warned auto hubs suck.
#6
Posted 06 July 2005 - 02:44 PM
Just another FYI - if the bearings are too tight they will creat heat.
Heat is what will cause a sucking action in water. So instead of holding back the water with a seal it actulaay sucks the water past them, good or bad.
Heat is what will cause a sucking action in water. So instead of holding back the water with a seal it actulaay sucks the water past them, good or bad.
302, NP435, NP205, HPD60, D70, 5:13 Gears, Detroits, 3/8" Diff Covers, 35 Spline Yukon Chromoly Shafts, Ator Drive Flanges, Cage 5.5" lift, Trail Ready Bead Locks, 38" SSR's, 1350 Drivelines, Ram Assist Steering, Stone Crusher Steering/ trac bar, 98" wheel base.
#7
Posted 30 July 2005 - 05:20 PM
There's supposed to be a rubber o-ring between the hub and the lockout. I'd guess your orings are missing. I've seen duct tape help out before.
79 Bronco 460, C6, Dana 60HP with Electrac locker, Dana 70HD with detroit locker, 44's, Milemarker 10.5k Hydraulic
78 Bronco 460, C6, Dana 44HD, Dana 70U with detriot locker, 36's, Milemarker 9000lb electric, dual batteries
78 Bronco 460, C6, Dana 44HD, Dana 70U with detriot locker, 36's, Milemarker 9000lb electric, dual batteries
#8
Posted 10 September 2005 - 04:17 PM
i get mud in the hubs all the time. i also clean and regrease every 2 wheeling trips. and i change gear oil 2 times a year... or as needed. i am going to extend my f/r breathers to the top of my truck this winter. with as much slop as i run through matenence is almost a monthy thing
[SIZE=1]87 bronco -
78 chasssis/ 87 body
6" progressive springs/ superlift shocks/damper front
5"block/ slapper assembly rancho 9000 5way adjustable shocks rear
thick, shimmed leaf packs/w 3/4 leaf added, 2" shackles
custom 2.5 leveling body kit
4:56 gears rear posi
fabricated bushguard
1966 289 /propane/ 4 core rv allum rad
c-6 small tranny
13/45 borg transfer case
summer tires- 35/15.5/15 super swamper sx
winter tires- 35/12.5/15 trail cutters
78 chasssis/ 87 body
6" progressive springs/ superlift shocks/damper front
5"block/ slapper assembly rancho 9000 5way adjustable shocks rear
thick, shimmed leaf packs/w 3/4 leaf added, 2" shackles
custom 2.5 leveling body kit
4:56 gears rear posi
fabricated bushguard
1966 289 /propane/ 4 core rv allum rad
c-6 small tranny
13/45 borg transfer case
summer tires- 35/15.5/15 super swamper sx
winter tires- 35/12.5/15 trail cutters
#10
Posted 02 February 2009 - 11:47 AM
Big0, on Oct 24 2005, 05:06 PM, said:
my 79 bronco has the same problems as urs brad i went out this weekend and got stuck cause mine quite locking and then my passenger hub wont unlock all the way.
Why go through all that work and waste of money-time after time in your standard American 4 WHEEL-------AND solve your problem once and for all--get a duece and a half and all your troubles are solved-,but some of you may want to go to a 5 tonn since it is POWER STEERING.--You standard truck--WAS NOT MADE TO THE RIGGERS-YOU WANT THEM TO DO. Its not fun getting stranded and you may have to walk along way out--like 30 miles or more.
Have you thought going around -r the hole may be deeper then it looks or their could be a big rock in it to bust your houseing or other parts. I rember ontime I was out rideing in fields in my care in high grass---when I decided tostop and have a look ahead. Good thing I did--their was a high wall(the earth had been dozed out------and it was about 300 feet drop straigh down-so use some caution-it may safe your life .
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