ignition cylinder Removal

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

digitalexpl0it

New member
Joined
Jun 11, 2017
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Hello, I am trying to replace the ignition cylinder switch in my 1982 Ford Bronco Full Size. I took off the steering wheel and took out the 3 screws for the turn signal assembly. I was able to push in the little button on the ignition cylinder while having the key in and turned the ignition on and the ignition cylinder moves out a few centimeters then is stuck. I am unable to remove the ignition cylinder. Any ideas or help is appreciated. 

 

Skitter302

Active member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Nov 25, 2012
Messages
749
Reaction score
147
Location
WA
Seems like with thse you had to turn the key to diferent positions as you were ulling it out, but that is probably the newer style that I'm thinking of.

 

BMAD01

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2010
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Location
Broomfield, Co.
I replaced the cylinder in my 88 a while back.  Had the same results as you.  I used a flat blade ***** driver to pry it out of the column.  All sorts of crap inside there after 29yrs!

 
OP
OP
D

digitalexpl0it

New member
Joined
Jun 11, 2017
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Thanks for the replies. I have watch that video and thanks for that. I wonder if I need to spray some carb cleaner or something I was also going to try and drill out the little pin on the cylinder. Thing is really stuck

 
Last edited by a moderator:
OP
OP
D

digitalexpl0it

New member
Joined
Jun 11, 2017
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
I have drilled out the little PIN and it still wont come out, used some disc cleaner to clean out around the cylinder as well. At this point I may just cut the starter linkage and replace the houses for the steering wheel  

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
9,071
Reaction score
1,019
Location
Floating in the Pacific
Yo digitalexpl0it,

Try this Lock Cylinder Replacement in an 85

Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at ignitioncylinder

"The easy way:

Insert the key into the cylinder, turn to the "on" position, press the pin in that is located on the underside of the steering column. Now you just pull the cylinder out. You may have to wiggle a bit, or turn the key just a little, but that is all there is to it.

To install the new cylinder, just slide it into the column until the bottom tab goes into the square housing, and make sure the little pin locks into it's hole, and you are done.

The hard way:

There is no easy way of doing this if you can't get your key into the cylinder, or if you can't turn the key to the "on" position. If this has happened to you, you will need a drill, an assortment of sharp drill bits, and lots of time. Yes, you have to drill out the center of the cylinder. Start with a small drill bit, and work your way to a larger one, until you have drilled out the center (the part that rotates) of the cylinder. Once you have done this, you can then get a flathead screwdriver, put it in what is left of the cylinder, and turn the bottom piece (as if you were turning to the "on" position). Now you can pull the rest of the cylinder out. Again, you may have to wiggle the cylinder bit, or remove some burs left from drilling, but it will come out. Slide the new cylinder in, then get a vacuum to clean up all the metal shavings.

I did mine the hard way, and took me almost 8 hours. About 3 hours of that was drilling and cursing, and the rest was running around getting the part, towing the truck home, and figuring out how the heck to get the cylinder out. Not the day I had planned, so if your key sticks at all, CHANGE IT NOW!! A $20 part is not worth the aggravation."

****

Lock Cylinder Release Pin pic in an 85

lckpin.jpg

Source: by JDApollo (John A)

there is a difference in tilt and non-tilt...

Steve wrote, "For older non-tilt, remove the steering wheel, turn the key to RUN, & press the button near the lock cylinder."

Here are the Chilton instructions for 83, but it does not appear to be accurate:

"With Key

Disconnect the battery ground.

On tilt columns, remove the upper extension shroud by unsnapping the shroud from the retaining clip at the 9 o'clock position.

Remove the trim shroud halves.

Unplug the wire connector at the key warning switch.

Place the shift lever in PARK and turn the key to ON.

Place a 1/8 in. wire pin in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder and depress the retaining pin while pulling out on the cylinder.

When installing the cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the RUN position and depress the retaining pin, then insert the lock cylinder into its housing in the ****** casting. Assure that the cylinder is fully seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This will allow the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder cast housing hole.

The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal."

 
OP
OP
D

digitalexpl0it

New member
Joined
Jun 11, 2017
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Yo digitalexpl0it,

Try this Lock Cylinder Replacement in an 85

Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at ignitioncylinder

"The easy way:

Insert the key into the cylinder, turn to the "on" position, press the pin in that is located on the underside of the steering column. Now you just pull the cylinder out. You may have to wiggle a bit, or turn the key just a little, but that is all there is to it.

To install the new cylinder, just slide it into the column until the bottom tab goes into the square housing, and make sure the little pin locks into it's hole, and you are done.

The hard way:

There is no easy way of doing this if you can't get your key into the cylinder, or if you can't turn the key to the "on" position. If this has happened to you, you will need a drill, an assortment of sharp drill bits, and lots of time. Yes, you have to drill out the center of the cylinder. Start with a small drill bit, and work your way to a larger one, until you have drilled out the center (the part that rotates) of the cylinder. Once you have done this, you can then get a flathead screwdriver, put it in what is left of the cylinder, and turn the bottom piece (as if you were turning to the "on" position). Now you can pull the rest of the cylinder out. Again, you may have to wiggle the cylinder bit, or remove some burs left from drilling, but it will come out. Slide the new cylinder in, then get a vacuum to clean up all the metal shavings.

I did mine the hard way, and took me almost 8 hours. About 3 hours of that was drilling and cursing, and the rest was running around getting the part, towing the truck home, and figuring out how the heck to get the cylinder out. Not the day I had planned, so if your key sticks at all, CHANGE IT NOW!! A $20 part is not worth the aggravation."

****

Lock Cylinder Release Pin pic in an 85

lckpin.jpg

Source: by JDApollo (John A)

there is a difference in tilt and non-tilt...

Steve wrote, "For older non-tilt, remove the steering wheel, turn the key to RUN, & press the button near the lock cylinder."

Here are the Chilton instructions for 83, but it does not appear to be accurate:

"With Key

Disconnect the battery ground.

On tilt columns, remove the upper extension shroud by unsnapping the shroud from the retaining clip at the 9 o'clock position.

Remove the trim shroud halves.

Unplug the wire connector at the key warning switch.

Place the shift lever in PARK and turn the key to ON.

Place a 1/8 in. wire pin in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder and depress the retaining pin while pulling out on the cylinder.

When installing the cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the RUN position and depress the retaining pin, then insert the lock cylinder into its housing in the ****** casting. Assure that the cylinder is fully seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This will allow the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder cast housing hole.

The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal."
Thanks for the reply, I ended up taking the Column Cover off then drilled the little pin some more and the ignition cylinder came out. That was a fight. After looking at the cylinder I noticed there was some yellow glue that was hard and sticky. Think they is what didn't allow if from coming out. 

Thanks for your guys replies. 

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Skitter302

Active member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Nov 25, 2012
Messages
749
Reaction score
147
Location
WA
Glad you got the old one out. The new one sould go in no issue now.

 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
22,520
Messages
135,982
Members
25,125
Latest member
ReturnToHangar
Top