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1980 - 95 Bronco Haynes Manual


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#1 Skitter302

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Posted 22 August 2017 - 08:07 PM

Ford Pick-Up and Bronco 1980-'95 < Link

 

I'll just put this link here for Anybody who needs a copy to look at. Most of us have the printed version but I like having a digital one too.

 

Just wanted to Share.


1989 Bronco XLT -- 302in³ EFI 5.0L (4942cc) -- AOD -- Borg Warner 1356 -- Manual Hub(s) -- 31x10.5 R15
1991 Bronco Eddie Bauer ~ 351w EFI 5.8 (5752cc) ~ E4OD ~ BW1356 (Manual) ~ Manual Hub{s} ~ 265/75 r15
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#2 Skitter302

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Posted 22 August 2017 - 08:07 PM

PM me if the link ever breaks.


1989 Bronco XLT -- 302in³ EFI 5.0L (4942cc) -- AOD -- Borg Warner 1356 -- Manual Hub(s) -- 31x10.5 R15
1991 Bronco Eddie Bauer ~ 351w EFI 5.8 (5752cc) ~ E4OD ~ BW1356 (Manual) ~ Manual Hub{s} ~ 265/75 r15
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#3 miesk5

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 07:01 AM

Yo Skitter,

Thanks much!

Mind if I placed this thread as a Sticky?

Here is the 1990 Bronco Pre-Delivery Shop & Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual  (EVTM), Partial by Kingfish999 in Google Drive

Slow scrolling.
Find page # of item desired in contents, then flip screen flip down like spinning a bearing then stopping periodically to see what page you are on. 


96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Manual BW 1356, manual hubs. See my partially recovered Bronco site. I need to clean up dead links & add many more. Thanks you Mr, Schwim! http://schwimserver5.com/?index=1128
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

#4 Skitter302

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?:1993

Posted 23 August 2017 - 12:16 PM

Stick it at the top!


1989 Bronco XLT -- 302in³ EFI 5.0L (4942cc) -- AOD -- Borg Warner 1356 -- Manual Hub(s) -- 31x10.5 R15
1991 Bronco Eddie Bauer ~ 351w EFI 5.8 (5752cc) ~ E4OD ~ BW1356 (Manual) ~ Manual Hub{s} ~ 265/75 r15
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#5 CASPER208

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?:1970

Posted 01 November 2017 - 04:58 PM

Tailgate window problems how to fix it? It is stuck inside tailgate how to get it back up?

#6 miesk5

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Posted 02 November 2017 - 04:08 AM

Yo CASPER208,

Welcome!

Be sure your tailgate latch is locking in on driver side. Push hard on tailgate about 8 inches down from top edge. Then try with key switch or cab switch.
If the motor runs but doesn't move the glass, push the glass up for access. The glass is strong enough to support its own weight fully extended, but no extra weight.

If the motor doesn't run, remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side - see below) that hold the regulator tracks to the glass brackets. Bend the regulator arms down slightly to pull the studs out of the brackets, and then push the glass up or down as needed. Be careful of the regulator!!!
If your regulator is still in good shape, you should prevent the arms from moving before taking out the motor. I used a bolt and a bracket I found around the garage to secure the arms from snapping together.
glass.jpg
Remember to FULLY lower or remove the glass before lifting or closing the t/g.

Remove the access cover, remove the 3 screws holding the motor on. push the motor out of the way. Lower the window by hand. It is heavy.

May also try and run the tailgate motor from a 12v cordless tool battery, usually with a little help you can get them down. Run from the battery straight to motor. 
A shortcut for moving the window if they motor is good, on the center support for the access panel. On the backside of it is the main plug for the motor. Just unplug it and power it with jumper wires to a 12v source. They should be yellow and red wires.

Read this by jowens1126
Tailgate

But instead of disconnecting the battery, use a 12 vdc portable drill battery. 

...

 

Check glass run for damage or debris and the "rollers" can go bad and even mess up the tracks if let go long enough.

The "rollers" in question are actually plastic, square blocks that slide back and forth in the tracks as the scissors move them up/down.
Check weatherstrip for grime, lack of lubrication.
Ford does recommend, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and window weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain door window alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip. Use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B to lubricate door and tailgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."

miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China.

apply dry (Teflon) lube to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass; dry lube prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; take off the TG access cover and spray Tri-Flow in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy" by JKossarides

Is window regulator rusted badly? If so, lube it with multi purpose grease.
Are Glass rollers ok?
Ensure that the motor is mounted properly to the back of the regulator
Tailgate could be mis-aligned

Troubleshooting Synopsis; "...The tail gate circuit is pretty easy to resolve with a meter. Attached is a diagram of the circuit. Note that there are two fuses or cIrcuit breakees in later years that you may have already found out. One powers the dash switch which is powered only when the key is in RUN or ACC. The other powers the tail gate switch and that line is hot at all times. If the motor is definitely good, (which can be verified by using a set of jumper leads directly to the motor connector). Once it is verified that the motor works then the common problems are:
1. The Latch Safety switch in the left side latch, This is often a problem when the tail gate fails from both switches.(you can pull the connector and jumper it out, which many people leave permanently jumpers out). The problem can be as easy as the latch needs adjustment. So if the jumper makes it work then either leave it jumped, adjust the latching stud for a tighter fit, or replace the latch switch if testing indicates it is bad. The function of the switch is to make sure the tail gate is latched before putting the window up. I like it bypassed because it makes it easy to get the window out of the way when working inside the tail gate. I think I'm smart enough to put the window back down before closing the tail gate . The only suggestion if leaving it jumped is to support the window if it is in the up position with the tail gate down. Else it could be broken by someone leaning on it.

tgmotorwiring.jpg

Click to enlarge.

2. The ground return for the tail gate switch uses the same two lines the dash switch does, (the grounding point is under the dash. The dash switch changes the function of the two leads running to the tail gate window motor by grounding one and putting 12V on the other. The tail gate switch uses the two leads for the ground connection, (it requires the dash switch to be in the neutral position in order to work). Depending on the year of the truck there are 2 or 
3 connectors involved that often get corroded, sometimes to the point that the wires break off the connector. In your truck, there is on connector behind the left tail light, the next common failing connector is the one on the left side of the rear frame crossover member, (it is gray, if you can still see the color, and just under and behind the bumper). So to make it short, if you can operate the motor with a set of jumper leads and the window goes up and down that way, then the problem is a connection or the Latch Safety Switch. If you can't get the tail gate open to work on it, crawl in the back and remove the tail gate panel and find the motor leads attached along the bottom edge of the opening. Disconnect them and use a long set of leads or another battery in the back with you to test the motor. Once the window is down you can open the gate to make it more comfortable to work on the problem. In the diagram you will see a black with white striped wire that goes to the tail gate key switch, you should have 12V there at all times. To get at it, you will need the window in the up position. The other two leads, (with the dash switch in the center position) should indicate that they are grounded when doing a continuity check of them).

You can also check the entire path from dash switch to the tail gate key switch by using a meter and probing the wires the purple with light green stripe and the dark green with light green stripe. Have someone (with the key in RUN or ACC) moving the Dash switch from UP to Down while you check those leads for 12V. If you don't get 12V then the problem is in a connector between the two switches or a broken wire (a broken wire would most likely be where they transition between the body and tail gate due to constant flexing). The procedure would be; 12V missing on one of the wires, move back to the connector behind the tail light (missing there), move to the connector on the cross member (missing there) move back to the connectors in front, until you find where you have 12V on the line you are probing. Once you find 12V the problem is between the last point probed and where you find 12V..." 
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) 

I periodically remove harness wrapping between tailgate shell and body to inspect wires and wrap with harness tape or plastic spiral wrap.

 

Next time, please fill out your Signature with year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. for better responses.

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Post any TECH questions in a new thread in 80-96 Ford Bronco Tech Support section & keep it limited to one issue. Mainly so that old farts such as I don't get confused.
To show off your Bronco, such as any build-up or modifications post, in 80-96 Ford Bronco section.

Here are some wiring diagrams (partial, 86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96) @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd Just register for free.


96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Manual BW 1356, manual hubs. See my partially recovered Bronco site. I need to clean up dead links & add many more. Thanks you Mr, Schwim! http://schwimserver5.com/?index=1128
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!



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