No power and fuel pump relay connector issues

Hey all, 

First post here, and I need you guys help before I ended calling a mechanic. I'll do it in cliff notes to make it easier to read.

1.Drove home on the HWY and car just died.

2.Found out that my v belts broke and messed up all the wiring. Yes the wiring is messed up from the previous owner try to hardwire the LED lights etc etc 

3.Try to crank it and won't start, start one time with starting fuel (fuel pump issues).

4.Did not hear the fuel pump prime when trying to start the key to acc.

5.Check the relay and there is no power on the relay.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/...-relay-tests-3

6.CheCk the ECM and relay and there is low voltage coming from the ignition to the pcm.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/...-relay-tests-3

7.Replaced the broken fusible link, and still has no power to fuel pump relay connector. I was able to hear the fuel pump by jump starting it but now the battery is dead.

8.Recharge the battery, connect everything and now there is no power at all even in the compartment where there usually a buzzing sound when I open the door.

Please help, i wasted 185 Bucks on this guy that claimed that he can fixed it. He rewired it, told me that the circuit breaker is blown, replaced the breaker but still no power.

Thanks.
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Yo laurentj23,

Welcome!

What year is it?

Here are some wiring diagrams to get you started: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

I really can't help you much to confirm that the wiring is ok now from here.

Let's begin with the ignition KEY switch.

Does it feel ok going to each position?

Does it "spring back? from start to run?

Do accessories such as the radio work in acc posiition?

Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) @ http://broncozone.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=6659

Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

.

Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in 80-91 & 92-96 @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/831772

...

Back to the tests:

Did you do this test?

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/eec-power-relay-tests-1

.

Can you confirm these tests? I am using acheap tablet and it freezes when I jump between windows so going from your cliff notes, I lose track.

CASE 1: The 12 Volt test light came On (and stayed On the whole time the engine was cranking). This is the normal and expected test result and it confirms that the fuel injection computer (EEC Electronic Control Module) is activating the fuel pump relay.

Or

"CASE 2: The 12 Volt test light DID NOT come On. Make sure that you're probing the correct wire and repeat the test one more time...

... If your 12 Volt automotive test light still does not come On, then the PCM is not activating the fuel pump relay. I can tell you that it's extremely rare for the fuel injection computer to go BAD and not activate the fuel pump relay (but I'm sure it happens)."

You'll need to pull the PCM AND INSPECT FOR LEAKING CAPACITORS OR CIRCUIT DAMAGE. Many owners are finding that the old capacitors tend to leak.

Depending on your year, the PCM is removed either through the cab up to 91 or the engine bay via fender liner in 92 - 96

...

Yo,
I just added more info in my previous  post.
■PCM (aka computer or EEC IV) Removal up to & include 91. " It's behind the drives side kick panel. To remove it first disconnect the battery and then get a 7/16" box end wrench and unbolt the wiring harness from inside the engine bay. Then pull the plastic kick panel from inside the cab and remove the retainer clip keeping the EEC in the fender pocket. Remove it by lifting the rear slightly and wiggling it out of the pocket, the rubber gasket at the firewall will have a pretty good grip on the connector so it will take some persuasion to free. Apply some petrolium jelly to the outside of the connector on the replacement EEC to help ease it back in" by Conanski
& Ted wrote "Should be one small metal ***** holding it. Just slide it out, but be careful with the gasket for the firewall. Don't mess it up and you can reuse it."
 
■
PCM Removal in 92 to 96 jowens
Disconnect the Battery.
2. If you have Cruise control, unbolt the cruise control module from the fender for easier access. Lay it aside across the engine to get it out of the way.
3. Use a 10mm Socket to remove the big Cable bundle connected to the EEC.


4. Remove the two nuts holding the EEC gasket/cover in place. They are located on the Top and Bottom of the Gasket as seen below.


5. Remove the first 4 or 5 screws holding the Inner Fender on. You will want to be able to flex the inner fender downward to clear the EEC as it is removed. I used a 3 foot section of 2x4 to push straight down on the inner fender just in front of the relay box. If you push hard enough the inner fender will flex down enough so you can pull the EEC out.
6. Use a T15 torx bit to remove the cover and inspect it for burns. Refer to the pictures in following post to see examples of burned EEC Capacitors.
■
EEC IV Capacitor Repair by seedpress @ http://broncozone.com/topic/20788-fuel-delivery-problem/

Yo,

Check grounds in engine bay: especially the small black wires; for example:

Location in Engine Bay pics: G100 @ LH front of engine compartment on upper radiator support-in front of WS washer/Coolant overflow tank; G101 front of fender apron-between starter relay & headlight; G200 behind RH kick panel; G103 (battery to engine) Lower RH front of engine; Same as Bronco in a 95 F Series 
Source: by Ford via subford (Bill K)  @ http://s54.photobucket.com/user/subford/library/Electrical/Grounds?sort=4&page=1

Locations in a 90 from 90 Bronco EVTM; "...G100 LH side of Radiator support; G101 RH side of Radiator support; G102 RH side of Radiator support; G103 LH rear side of engine near knock sensor; G104 LH rear side of engine compartment, near electronic engine control (EEC) module, on the left fender close to the firewall; G105 LH Side of engine; G106 RH fender apron, near voltage regulator; G107 RH fender apron, at starter relay; G108 RH fender apron, at voltage regulator; G109 RH fender apron; G201 LH rear side of I/P (looking at the diagram it is at the bottom of the driver's side dash assembly. Screwed to the bottom edge, just to the left of the steering column. It is the ground for the instrument cluster); G202 Behind RH cowl panel; G203 RH rear side of radiator support; G204 On steering column; G205 Behind Center of I/P (Dash); near speed control amplifier; G400 LH side of cargo area; near rear light assembly; G401 Below LH side of cargo area; near crossmember; G500 Inside driver's door; near left door speaker" 
Source: by BroncoJoe19 (Joe) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Locations in 92-96; "...Haynes manual. They list 10 separate grounds... A-J. A. Starter mounting bolt B. Right front of Engine compartment near the battery C. Lower left front of engine D. Right front of engine compartment on upper radiator support. E. Left front of engine compartment Upper radiator support F. Bottom of cowl panel G. Rear of left fender apron H. Behind bottom of right cowl panel I. Left rear corner of cargo area near rear lamp assembly J. Under center rear of vehicle on rear cross member..." 

Source: by Haynes via BroncoJoe19 (Joe) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Al,

Thanks for your help. I did the Relay test from the link. Here's what I found weird. When I use the multimeter and probe the connector, it will not show any volt with black lead on the battery and red lead on the connector. It did show power on both red/yellow wire with key on ignition with red lead on the battery and black lead on the connector. Does it mean I put it on back wards on the starter relay? After putting the relay on the connector and ignition on, I did not hear the fuel pump prime even though it is showing power on both red and yellow wire on the connector.

I have check the fusible links and turned out the large yellow wire was blown, replaced it and now it's back on. I also replaced the black wire fusible link (20G) which I think is the one that supplies the fuel pump relay connector. If not which one? 

I have a new issues. I tried to start it but only hear click at the solenoid and the starter will not turn the engine.I went and get it tested and they said it was bad.  I removed the starter which has two wires. Red (small) and red(2/4g) wires from the stock starter. The new starter that I got, has only one place to mount the wire which I ended up mounting the bigger wire. Refer to pic.

I tried to start it again, and the problem still persists. Just a clicking noise from the solenoid. I tried to jump start it with one cable to the + battery and one end to the small post (ignition wire) and still just making clicking noise as well as the big cable that connects the starter jumped. I tried to use a ***** driver to jump start one terminal (big) to another big terminal and nothing. 

I have checked the battery cable that is mounted to the solenoid + and show 12 v. I check the - battery cable and ground to chases and both show 12 v. I checked the wire that connect the starter to the solenoid and it has 12 v. Where do the small wire goes in the new starter? 

I am at lost here. One problem after another and need your help. It sounds like easy electrical but has no other way of fixing it.

thanks.

Replaced the fusible link as well. But what does this wire supply? Is this the fuel pump relay fusible link?

Yo,

What year is it?

I can't open the pics with this pos tablet. 

Which relay were you testing?  EEC or FP?

Starter Relay pic in an 88 

Source: by Jem270 

big red cable is from battery +

large black cable on othe side goes to starter

small wire at top is from ign switch via neutral safety switch .  It has  a pull off, push on connector.  Should be blue/white.

Starter Relay Wiring Diagrams & pic in an 83 (see Fig. 3) 

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W)

Starter Relay id in a 90



by SeattleFSB 

Hopefully someone can jump in and open the pics.

fp relay and 86

Yo,

 86 starter relay wiring diagran @ 

1986\FM\WRFM86BRON015b

small wire at "S" post on the starter relay is from ign switch via neutral safety switch .  It has  a pull off, push on connector.  Should be red/light blue stripe.

Below relay in your 86 doesn't use the i terminal.

Yo,

Fuel Pump Relay Wiring Diagram in an 86 
Source: by Xris

i can't find a better diagram.

Fuel Pump Relay Socket Corrosion Info; "...if you had corrosion in your relay socket, then you probably have it other places. one at a time unplug all relays and connectors on that fender and spray them down with contact cleaner. then after you let that do it's job for about 30min-1hr, go back and unplug each relay and connector again (one at a time) this time put them together with di-electric grease. you can buy a tube of it from any electrical/electronics supply or auto store. make sure you get everything plugged back in..."

Try again Using the http://easyautodiagn....-relay-tests-3.

I can't follow it along with yiur description and possible wiring hack by tge person that you paid.

Hopefully, Seabronc, Bully Bob or Rons beast can help, especially to look at your pics. 

Yo L,

Here is the 

1986 ELECTRICAL & VACUUM TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL, partial by Gary!  @ http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.htmlsee Start & Ignition (Gasoline Engines) for whatever engine yiu havem such as 5.0 EEC IV

& Electric Fuel Pump Control

& 

ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (EEC)I GUESS YOU HAVE A 5.0, SO;

Fusible Link N (red) 19 gauge fron starter relay  to Yellow wire that goes to EECRELAY

OK Just an update..

I replaced the starter and bought a remanufactured one from auto zone. I also replaced the starter relay that I bought from rock auto. I tried to jump it again with a wire from + battery to S terminal. The engine will turn but not strong. I tried turning it with key, it will crank twice than make the same issue as before. I also tried re jumping it again and this time make a fast clicking noise and the engine won't turn. The only thing I can think of is maybe the wire that connects the starter to the relay is bad? (even though it has 12 volt?). I also haven't check the ground from block to chasis...What else am I missing here?

yo,

The ground would be my #1 concern, every day, all the time.

"...Why are the cables and battery so important? The starter circuit pulls a lot of amperage, up to 500 amps depending on the starter, the engine load, and battery condition. This kind of amperage stresses all of the components in the starter circuit, including the battery, battery terminals, the battery disconnect switch, the cables including the ground path, and any remote solenoids. Problems with these components are hard to find because they appear fine at rest or under a light load, but generate high resistance under heavy amperage draws. The result will be low voltage to the starter during cranking, resulting in heavier amperage draw and increased internal heat in the starter. Over time, this will cause starter failure. Voltage measured at the starter during cranking should always be above 9.5VDC..." 
Source: by powermastermotorsports "...Why are the cables and battery so important? The starter circuit pulls a lot of amperage, up to 500 amps depending on the starter, the engine load, and battery condition. This kind of amperage stresses all of the components in the starter circuit, including the battery, battery terminals, the battery disconnect switch, the cables including the ground path, and any remote solenoids. Problems with these components are hard to find because they appear fine at rest or under a light load, but generate high resistance under heavy amperage draws. The result will be low voltage to the starter during cranking, resulting in heavier amperage draw and increased internal heat in the starter. Over time, this will cause starter failure. Voltage measured at the starter during cranking should always be above 9.5VDC..." 
Source: by powermastermotorsports