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#1 kjones

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?:1983

Posted 13 June 2017 - 04:27 PM

I have what I believe is a bad signal switch in my 83. I found a new one for an 84 on eBay significantly cheaper than one for an 83. Will it work or do I need to buy for 83?

#2 miesk5

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Posted 14 June 2017 - 04:11 AM

Yo k,

Welcome!

@ first I was about to write they're the same, but then I looked at rockauto.com for both years and see different part numbers for tilt or non-tilt steering wheels.

 1983 is @ https://www.rockauto...nal switch,4832

BUT NO INDICATION IF FOR AUTO OR MANUAL TRANSMISSION. 

...

1984 is 

https://www.rockauto...nal switch,4832

 

I tried Our Sponsor, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard,  but none are listed.

...

 

https://www.1aauto.com has one  for 1983 Ford Bronco Turn Signal Switch without Tilt Steering Wheel

&

Two switches for:

1984 Ford Bronco Turn Signal Switch for Models with Automatic Transmission & Tilt Steering

&

1984 Ford Bronco Turn Signal Switch for Models with Tilt Steering & Manual Transmission

...

 

1983 Ford Bronco Turn Signal Switch w/ Tilt Wheel @ http://www.ebay.com/...SA/162311221204


96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Manual BW 1356, manual hubs. See my partially recovered Bronco site. I need to clean up dead links & add many more. Thanks you Mr, Schwim! http://schwimserver5.com/?index=1128
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

#3 miesk5

miesk5

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Posted 14 June 2017 - 04:24 AM

Yo,

I couldn't type on the page any more , so here are the 83  switches with and w/o tilt:

1980-83 FORD BRONCO TURN SIGNAL SWITCH (W/O TILT)
SM53F - Sh-Mr - 1766

Price: $58.66
1980-83 FORD BRONCO TURN SIGNAL SWITCH (WITH TILT)

SM63F - Sh-Mr - 1843

Price: $77.45
...
1984:
1984-91 FORD BRONCO TURN SIGNAL SWITCH (W/O TILT)
SM56F - Sh-Mr - 1802
Price: $55.29
...

1984-91 FORD BRONCO TURN SIGNAL SWITCH (WITH TILT)
SM66F - Sh-Mr - 1867

Price: $63.05
...
Turn Signal Switch Replacement & Repair Info w/Tilt Wheel in a 90; similar to 80-91 by SeattleFSB
Turn Signal Switch Replacement & Repair Info w/Tilt Wheel in an 89; "...The white plastic that takes up half the column is the turn signal switch. The red box in the top right is the steering wheel lock. When you turn the key, it goes down. The switch is only held down by two screws. One where my screw driver is, and another, same spot, on the bottom. When I removed by wheel, I saw my top screw sitting at the bottom of the column. Once I put the screw back in and tightened them both up, everything was fine. The switch now stays in place, and the lever is now able to push the tilt bar backwards, releasing the wheel. I didn't have to replace my switch, but you see how easy it is now if you must do it. I thought about it - everything's off right now...spend 30 bucks and never think about this again... But then again it took me 10 minutes to get to the switch - I'll save my 30 and go drop it at poker. Check out last photo... If your turn signal does not snap back after turning, read on. Wanted to quickly explain how that works. When you lit the lever, the switch locks in place (green box in pic). There is a little ring around the steering shaft. As you turn, that ring rotates around the shaft until a little block on the ring hits an arm (red box) and the arm releases the lock. When my whole switch was loose, it moved the ring up the shaft a bit, and the little block wasn't hitting the arm. If your lever doesn't snap back after a turn, either the ring moved up, or the plastic lever and/or arm on the switch broke..." 
Source: by Brahma502 at SuSuperMotors.net
 
Turn Signal Replacement in an 88; similar to 80-91; "...When I purchased my Bronco a few weeks ago the turn signal switch would not lock on a right turn. Minor annoyance is all, except for the fact that I'm also trying to teach two teenage boys how to drive. I'd rather they keep both hands on the wheel while turning a corner so I decided to spend the $35-40 to replace the switch. The neighborhood Autozone had it in stock, to my surprise so last weekend I undertook trying to replace it. You DO NOT have to disassemble your steering column to run the wire connector for the new switch. I wasted a good 3 hours trying to figure out how to disassemble my steering column when it wasn't necessary. I found a diagram in my Haynes that mentioned in a side note that you actually remove the connector from the wires. Wish I had found that a few hours ago. Step 1: Remove sterring wheel. - (Note: If there are no notches on the steering wheel and steering shaft to help you line them back up later, use a white grease pen to mark them.) This is a simple operation but you do need the right tools. on my '88 (with cruise) there are two screws holding the center cover of the steering wheel on and three wires. The wires are simple disconnects once you have the cover off, and you cannot put them back on the wrong way. Just take a second to look at them before you start yanking so you know where that one ground wire is supposed to hook up. Once you have the center cover off you need a steering wheel puller to get the wheel off the splines holding it to the steering shaft. Step 2: Remove the old switch. First find the switch connecter at the bottom end of the steering column. You can look at your new switch to see what it looks like, but it should be a gray connector with two rows of pins that is curved (crescent shaped?). Disconnect the connector. You can either disassemble the connector (see Step 3 below) or do what I did and cut it off. Don't cut it too short as you can still use it as a wiring guide in Step 3. The switch takes up almost the entire diameter of the steering column. There are two screws holding the switch down just to the left of center (under the switch locking cam arms). The switch arm itself screws into the switch mechanism so get yourself a small wrench or a crecent wrench to loosen it then unscrew it. There is one more screw that holds a wire on the right side by the ignition. Keep this screw and the two holding the switch down.Step 3: Install new switch. - This is where we get fancy. First, either draw a diagram of the connector on the new switch or compare it to your old switch to verify the wire colors are the same. We will be pulling all of the wires off the connector so you need to know how it goes back together. If you look at the face of the connector there is a piece of plastic that runs between the two sets of pins (mine was orange). You can pull this piece of plastic out by poking something small into the hole on the side of the connector (I used a multimeter probe) to pop it up enough to get your fingers on it. It pulls out pretty easily. Once you pull that piece out it is pretty simple to pull the wires out of the connector. You may need to use a small probe to loosen the prongs that hold the wires in, but without the center plastic piece this is very simple. Here's the hardest part of the whole operation. Tape the wire ends together to keep them from getting hung up (I used masking tape) then feed the wires back through the steering column. There is a little metal loop about a third of the way down that the wires run through. It is a good idea to hit that loop as it helps keep the wires from rubbing in the wrong place. Getting the wires through the metal loop and also down the rest of the column is pretty tight. It might be easier to use electrical tape on the wire ends and leave a long pigtail of it to help guide it. As soon as you can get a hold of the ends under the dash it makes it a little easier to pull it through. Using your earlier diagram or the old connector (with cut wires?) reinsert all of the wires into the connector and replace the center plastic piece to hold them all in. You might need the probe again for this piece as you have to make sure the little prastic prongs all end up on the correct side of the plastic piece or it will not hold in the wires. Screw the wire back down on the right side. The connect on the end of this wire had a small plastic cover to protect the connector as it is just a small piece of flat copper. Remove that cover and screw the connector in place by the ignition. Then replace the switch itself and screw those two screws under the cam arms. Screw the switch arm back in place. Connect the connector under the dash. Here's a tip. If your horn comes on while plugging this back in, you got your wiring diagram reversed. (Don't ask!) If all is quiet after connecting, this is a good time to test the switch. Step 4: Replace Steering Wheel: This is very simple. There is a notch on the steering wheel and a notch on the end of the shaft to help line it up (at least on my '88 there was). Alternately you hopefully marked it so you can line it back up. Once it is lined up and started on the splines of the shaft put the nut back on and screw it down. I used my cordless drill-driver for this (with a socket adapter and a large socket). Then it just took about another half turn or so with the wrench to finish it off. Replace your wires, put the cover back on, and replace the two screws that hold the cover in place..." 
Source: by Pukwudji (Brian "Puk" V) 

96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Manual BW 1356, manual hubs. See my partially recovered Bronco site. I need to clean up dead links & add many more. Thanks you Mr, Schwim! http://schwimserver5.com/?index=1128
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!



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