So today my 1990 Ford bronco XLT decided to die at the stop light. The tach jumped around a little then it died. It started right back up and didn't do it again. Now it has done this before but I thought maybe because the power brake booster was bad I was getting a vacuum leak so I changed it and my master cylinder. It seemed to work but now it did it again. I just bought this bronco it has 73000 on it . It looks like the idle control was recently changed also the TPS and the ERG is new sorry if my terms are not right still learning about this stuff. I ran codes and it passed so I'm stumped any help would be great. It idles at around 700 at a light if that helps.
Bad idle
- Thread starter Rojo
- Start date
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Yo Rojo,
Welcome!
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.co...7&mode=threaded
Some basics;
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.
Do KOEO test First
Post Code(s) here according to:
[SIZE=34.2507px]KOEO [/SIZE]& [SIZE=34.2507px]KOER[/SIZE]
..
Some no code usual suspects by Ford;
See my vacuum leak test in post # 20 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/?p=125535
Air filter, is it relatively clean?
Air inlet atop radiator support to filter box and to throttle body; look for obstruction; damaged tubing
Fuel quality; Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. You can check stored gasoline by pouring some into a clear glass container and comparing it side-by-side with known fresh gasoline. If your old sample looks noticeably darker than the fresh gas, you have strong evidence the gas has gone bad.
Electrical connectors; inspect at IAC, TPS, Coil, PCM, etc. especially those with broken locking tabs or wire harness wrapping ripped apart.
...
Next time, please fill out your Signature with year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. for better responses.
Click your name in right black panel in upper right;
In pop up,
Click, My Profile
Click, Edit My Profile in right side black panel
In left panel, Click, Edit Signature
Enter info
Click, Save Changes
...
To post a pic from your PC, TABLET, etc., just below the reply box in lower right corner, click More Reply Options
Screen will change
See Attach files
pick out the pic
Click Attach This File
or click, Try our advanced uploader (requires Flash 9)
...
Keep each post limited to one issue.
...
Our sponsor, Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.
http://broncograveyard.com
Here are some wiring diagrams (partial, 86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96) @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd
Sometimes non-Ford parts especially the IAC, TPS, etc are iffy.
Does the IAC passageway look clean?
Idle Air Bypass (IAB), aka IAC Test and info @ http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page39.html
Welcome!
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.co...7&mode=threaded
Some basics;
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.
Do KOEO test First
Post Code(s) here according to:
[SIZE=34.2507px]KOEO [/SIZE]& [SIZE=34.2507px]KOER[/SIZE]
..
Some no code usual suspects by Ford;
See my vacuum leak test in post # 20 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/?p=125535
Air filter, is it relatively clean?
Air inlet atop radiator support to filter box and to throttle body; look for obstruction; damaged tubing
Fuel quality; Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. You can check stored gasoline by pouring some into a clear glass container and comparing it side-by-side with known fresh gasoline. If your old sample looks noticeably darker than the fresh gas, you have strong evidence the gas has gone bad.
Electrical connectors; inspect at IAC, TPS, Coil, PCM, etc. especially those with broken locking tabs or wire harness wrapping ripped apart.
...
Next time, please fill out your Signature with year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. for better responses.
Click your name in right black panel in upper right;
In pop up,
Click, My Profile
Click, Edit My Profile in right side black panel
In left panel, Click, Edit Signature
Enter info
Click, Save Changes
...
To post a pic from your PC, TABLET, etc., just below the reply box in lower right corner, click More Reply Options
Screen will change
See Attach files
pick out the pic
Click Attach This File
or click, Try our advanced uploader (requires Flash 9)
...
Keep each post limited to one issue.
...
Our sponsor, Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.
http://broncograveyard.com
Here are some wiring diagrams (partial, 86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96) @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd
Sometimes non-Ford parts especially the IAC, TPS, etc are iffy.
Does the IAC passageway look clean?
Idle Air Bypass (IAB), aka IAC Test and info @ http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page39.html
Yo,
Also, 1990 Bronco Pre-Delivery Shop & Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) by Kingfish in Google Drive @ https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0BzRTW4yeT2u4UkhzR0ZydDd3MzA?usp=sharing&tid=0BzRTW4yeT2u4NXB6NW5neFRoZGc
Slow to scroll through so find applicable subject page number in Contents, open manual, scroll down to the page number while drinking coffee
Also, 1990 Bronco Pre-Delivery Shop & Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) by Kingfish in Google Drive @ https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0BzRTW4yeT2u4UkhzR0ZydDd3MzA?usp=sharing&tid=0BzRTW4yeT2u4NXB6NW5neFRoZGc
Slow to scroll through so find applicable subject page number in Contents, open manual, scroll down to the page number while drinking coffee
