Front driveshaft stays engaged in 2 wheel dive

Hi! My front driveshaft is staying engaged in 2 WD. Rebuilt transfer case, new shift motor, new mile marker manual lock hubs. Everything is working as should be. Starting to think it may be the electro-magnet in the transfer case not holding range fork in place.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Yo Will,

Welcome!

Have you tested the new manual hubs yet?

Electronic Shift Operation

The transfer case (7A195) is equipped with a magnetic clutch, similar to an air conditioning compressor clutch, which is located inside the transfer case adjacent to the lockup collar. The clutch is used to spin up the front drive system from zero to vehicle speed in milliseconds. This spin-up allows the shift between 2-high and 4-high to be made at vehicle speeds listed in the vehicle owner's guide. The spin up engages the front locking hubs. When the transfer case rear and front output shafts reach synchronous speed, the spring-loaded lockup collar mechanically engages the mainshaft hub to the chain drive sprocket and the magnetic clutch is then deactivated. 



There may be a problem with power to the clutch from the shift control module, the clutch ground or the clutch itself. Check the wiring harness as well.

Will try to find a test for the magnetic clutch

Yes Al, tested hubs...all good. the transfer case shift motor is working fine, but like i said, it has to be a problem with the magnetic clutch hold fork in wrong position

Yo,

Ok, I figured you tested the hubs, but needed to ask anyway.



Check the brown wire;

"The magnetic clutch is energized to hold the 4WD sprocket. The transfer case control module then rotates the internal cam with the electric motor to lock the 4WD sprocket. Once the transfer case is in 4HI, the magnetic clutch is released.

Clutch is 1.5 to 5.0 Ohms

Disconnect the Flat 8-pin square connector. Measure the magnetic clutch resistance between the harness side pin 5 and ground. It should be 1.5-5.0 ohms. With the transfer case in 2WD and the engine off, apply 12 volts to the harness side of pin 5 for a second. The clutch should click to lock the 4WD sprocket. At the 8-pin square connector, apply 12 volts to pin 4 and ground pin 6 for about one second. The electric motor should rotate clockwise stopping at the 4L position. Reverse the polarity and the electric motor should rotate counterclockwise stopping at the 2H position. Reconnect the 8-pin square connector. " by Ford

Yo,

"those blisters from the heat are a result of it spinning behind the "gear" its pushing against" by kf4amu



Item Part Number Description 1 7017 Input Shaft 2 7A398 Front Planet 3 7100 High-Low Collar 4 7177 Sprocket, Drive 5 7G361 Electromagnetic Clutch 6 7106 Lockup Sleeve 7 7D126 Lockup Spring 8 7061 Output and Fifth Gear Drive Shaft, Rear 9 7289 Shift Fork, 4WD 10 7219 Lockup Release Spring 11 7G360 Transfer Case Shift Motor 12 7A029 Drive Chain 13 7061 Output and Fifth Gear Drive Shaft, Front 14 3B396 Hub, Auto Locking 15 7N095 Shift Shaft 16 7W074 Range Shift Spring 17 7289 Shift Fork, Range
by Ford

thanks for all help. i think i have a bad bearing that's causing the noise issue i just don't know which one. the noise is mostly in wind down mode (deceleration) loud in drive, louder in L2, very loud in L1. if i tickle the accelerator a touch it quiets down a bit. Still stumped! Can't figure. Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Yo,
At @ Ford dealer, a mechanic would put it on a hoist and use a mechanic's stethoscope  (or a piece of garden hose for the diyer) to track the noise down.  But I haven't  heard of stripping it down to the needle bearings or the bore seal of the front wheel spindle. 

Pic by waltman  in an 89.  More pics @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/10222/62538-2
The spindle woukd need to be removeed to inspect thr needle bearings.  Most likely these bearings haven't been lubed; often ovelooked by most shops.
...
What year do you have?
 
Dana 44 Spindle Differences 94-95; "...In addition to the ~'92 loss of a spindle stud (leaving 5) and the addition of 2 notches in the spindle ****** for the 4WABS sensor used on '93-96 Broncos only, the spindle was also redesigned in ~'95. to match the revised 2-piece inner wheel seal. F150 spindle flanges were never notched or drilled for the 4WABS sensor, but are otherwise identical to the corresponding Bronco's. I suspect the slot was lengthened around '86 for the self-locking spindle nut, but I haven't confirmed that. '87-early '88 spindles for manual (top-hat ******-style) hub locks are significantly shorter overall, and have 6 stud holes..."