coolant visibly draining into oil!!!???!!!

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kbohn83

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I have a 93 5.0 that I fired up for the first time in a long time idled fine for about an HR maybe longer no problem radiator held fluid oil was clean I took it for a 3 mile spin and couldn't make it temp gauge was off the charts and I lost about 2 quarts of coolant into the oil pan. No fluid/ minimal steam coming out of the exhaust but the million dollar question is, is it a cracked block?? Or bad gaskets??? Remember I can physically watch the coolant level drop when hot with no visible leak... Thank u in advance!!!

 

miesk5

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Yo kbohn83,

Welcome, but wish the circumstances was better!

Hopefully, its just an intake gasket leak.

 

Try a coolant leak test, see following for an overview:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolant_leaks.htm

Coolant System Pressure Test by Ford*

For some of the tools/test devices, check with local parts stores for a loan a tool program, with refundable depositl

And if needed a Compression Test*

"If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on pistons does not increase compression, cause may be a cylinder head gasket leak between cylinders. Engine oil and/or coolant in cylinders could result from this problem.

Cylinder Leakage Detector*.  When a cylinder produces a low reading, the use of Rotunda Pressurization Kit 014-00705 or equivalent will be helpful in pinpointing the exact cause. The leakage detector is inserted in the spark plug hole, the piston is brought up to top dead center on the compression stroke, and compressed air is admitted.

Once the combustion chamber is pressurized, a special gauge will read the percentage of leakage. Leakage exceeding 20 percent is considered excessive.

While the air pressure is retained in the cylinder, listen for the hiss of escaping air. A leak by the intake valve (6507) will be audible in the throttle body (9E926). A leak by the exhaust valve (6505) can be heard at the tail pipe. Leakage past the rings will be audible at the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) connection. If air is passing through a blown gasket to an adjacent cylinder, the noise will be evident at the spark plug hole of the cylinder into which the air is leaking. Cracks in the cylinder block (6010), or gasket leakage into the cooling system may be detected by a stream of bubbles in the radiator (8005)."

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*By Ford in 96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) by FORD via

http://www.diesel-da...stj/stjleft.htm

96 is same as most earlier years especially 92-96, except for:
92 through 95 uses the Electronic Engine Control, version Four (EEC-IV, aka On Board Diagnostics (OBD-I)) engine management computer
96 uses the OBD-II (EEC-V) engine management computer;
4WABS (93-96);
RABS (87-92);
Air Bag (94-96);
3 ***** Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.);
R134a in 94-96;
2-piece Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS) used on 5/95 to 96 Broncos & F Series 1/2-ton 4WD;
Mass Air Flow in 95 5.8 California models and in all 96s, other years used Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP).
96 5.8 do not have the Air Injection (AIR), Secondary Air Injection; Pump (Smog Pump), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoids; Diverter, Check & Bypass Valves, Cross-Over Tube, etc. But 96 5.0 does have the system.
The 96, Vapor Management Valve (VMV) replaces the canister purge valve (CanP valve) used in EEC IV. But manual still shows CanP valve probably because it was a late addition to the 96 production line.
The Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) in a 93 Bronco is located on the driver side frame rail, but in 94 through 96 it is on the master cylinder.
Still researching other differences.

 
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kbohn83

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I can test the cylinder compression but to check the coolant system for a leak is going to be a waist of time I can literally watch the fluid level drop in the radiator and watch my oil level rise.... When hot I watched my oil level rise a considerable amount on the dipstick it rose about a half an inch on the oil dipstick with in 10 mins it was an extremely fast progression sadly I'm thinking I need a salvage yard engine to make it right again to lose that much coolant that fast into the oil it can't be good....

 

miesk5

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Yo,

Ok.  It took me awhile to post that reply because I had to do some exercuses  and by the time I  got back to finish the reply I forgot about the coolant level drop.

GL!

 

Para

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Wow a gusher! What about draining all the coolant and pumping AIR in to the system to chase down the leak? They make this little hand pump with a radiator cap on the end u can use to pressurize the syst.

of course its such a gusher you may need a compressor to feed air in vs a hand pump....

 

miesk5

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Wow a gusher! What about draining all the coolant and pumping AIR in to the system to chase down the leak? They make this little hand pump with a radiator cap on the end u can use to pressurize the syst.

of course its such a gusher you may need a compressor to feed air in vs a hand pump....
Yo,

Did you read the Ford instructions I posted via the hot link?

Here it is, "Pressure should be held between 69 and 90 kPa (10 and 13 psi) and should not drop during this time."

 
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kbohn83

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I'm thinking it's my intake manifold gasket after doing some research the engine runs great so it can't be a block problem and alot of guys I know say it's the intake manifold gasket especially sense I'm not burning fluids just leaking them from radiator to engine oil

 

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