ABS Problem

So I may buy a new 96 Bronco and it has issues. One of the issues that may make me buy it or not is that the ABS light is on. 

If its a wheel sensor no problem, if its the ABS hydraulic computer, forget it. After what I went through with a Jeep I had forget it. Half of the used ones never work. I ended up buying an entrire car to get one that worked, not doing that again

Anyways, I had the idea of connecting an OBDII code reader and have it tell me. Prev owner says you can not do that and you need to connect to some different connector or harness, etc

Any ideas on how I can easily tell if its the module vs a wheel sensor?
 
 
 

Yo Para,

Welcome!

Our 96's 4WABS modukes microprocessers decided to self-destruct.  Went through two yard equally bad modules,  then decided to jump out the module's harness connector to allow tgr E4OD to shift normally, the cruise control to operatie (if equipped) ; and removed the ABS light from cluster.

Haven't missed the 4WABS  at all.

See if seller will let you do the  4WABS Self Test & Test Connector Diagram, Component Locations, DTCs, 93-96; USE THIS PROCESS! "...The 4WABS TEST Connector is red; located at the left-hand side (driver's side) of the engine compartment and marked ANTI-LOCK TEST; Light Flash Technique 1. Note: If 12V test light is not available, the amber ABS warning light also flashes during this test. Locate test connector in the engine compartment and install 12V test light between Pins C and E. 2. With the ignition off, jumper Pin E to B. 3. Turn key to RUN position. 4. Remove jumper between Pins E and B after 5 seconds. 5. Count light flashes of test light or amber ABS warning light..." read more; miesk5 Note; do test twice and with a helper, if possible.

Source: by **DONOTDELETE** 

See the codes that address the front wheel sensors such as 31 & 32; and 33, Rear Axle Speed Sensor, but the module could be the culprit there too due to connector  terminal damage or backed out.  Connector terminals can be inspected visually. 

To confirm, the pin-ppoint tests have to be performed.  I have them if you're interested. They include the Ford break-out box that can be ignored by using wiring diagrams along with all the connectors' pin diagrams.

4WABS Self Test Connector pic in a 95 (near driver's side hood hinge) 



Source: by s8c2 (the wagon)

Sorry for the multiple posts and thanks !!

I think this will do it !

Yo Para,

YW!

While editing the text font size, I deleted the following:

Also the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it. 
Is CEL ON when starting or while driving?

Same for:
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) , it is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). 
Is it flashing while driving?
For a 96 get it checked for codes free at Parts Stores if you don't diy with a scanner.

We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule.

One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).
Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

Check VIN for Model Year & Engine Type (for example; 5.0, 5.8, 4.9 or 351W CID 5.8 4 BBL Carb, etc.) .
Check on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN), must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.
Ask for maintenance records. If no maint records are avail; check and replace if needed all filters and fluids.
Order a CarFax. Although not all accident info is provided other important info is providee @ https://www.carfax.com
While you take a test drive, have someone stay behind or follow and check for leak puddles, exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc. 
dash_cam offers very good advice on having an independent inspection done at sellers location! If you cant inspect it yourself, post Location in the noobie section and ask members for their help or seek out an ASE certified shop in area to inspect it for you.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for: 
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- auto tranny - E4OD in 90 to 96 had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing - look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator). 
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.
- engine rear main/timing chain cover seals, etc.
- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements at a body shop, but some diy.
check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass 
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings 
- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96), make sure it works; look for a slight waver in the needle at highway speeds. 
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc. 
- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com 
- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
- body mount deterioration and frame rust
-transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop and/or the motor connector is fouled, etc.

Cash is King.

As craigslist advises, "Avoid scams, deal locally Beware wiring (e.g. Western Union), cashier checks, money orders, shipping"
A summary of questions to ask the seller;
* Do you have the title in hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?
* How do I get the title?
* Has the vehicle been in any accidents?
* Are there any document or preparation fees?"

GL!

miesk5 said:

Yo Para,

Welcome!

Our 96's 4WABS modukes microprocessers decided to self-destruct.  Went through two yard equally bad modules,  then decided to jump out the module's harness connector to allow tgr E4OD to shift normally, the cruise control to operatie (if equipped) ; and removed the ABS light from cluster.

Haven't missed the 4WABS  at all.

Click to expand...

Hey Miesk5, Can you elaborate on this? I drove around for a long time with the ABS bulb pulled from the cluster,but now that I'm fixing up the truck, I'd like to disable or fix the ABS system and I'm leaning toward disable.

Thanks

Yo Eddie B,

Welcome!

My 96's 4WABS Module's microprocessors burnt-out and 2 yard Modules were also bad; so I removed the 4WABS Bulb & jumpered the Module out as Turbo Ghost describes below.
"To bypass the 4WABS module @ it's harness's connector & feed the 4WABS signal directly to the PSOM, 
Disconnect module (under coolant recovery /ws washer tank) & in connector, jumper LG/Bk to LG/Y, and R/Pk to O/LB..." 

• Lik

Notice orientation of the connector pins.

4WABS Control Module Removal in 93-96; "...Disconnect the plug from it, remove the 10mm bolt holding it in and slide it out of the keyway" (see lower image) 
Source: by Froggmann (Ken P)

I unwrapped harness covering to expose the wires and cut the four wires 4 inches away from the coonector and spliced wires shown in turboghost's pic.
I used weather resistant in-line (butt) crimp connectors. Covered connector with a surgical glove , leaving small opening facing down.
Tied connector to radidtor's neck.

...

to restore;

[SIZE=23.9997px]4WABS Bulb needs to be replaced first.[/SIZE]

Do this  4WABS Self Test & Test Connector Diagram, Component Locations, DTCs, 93-96; USE THIS PROCESS! "...The 4WABS TEST Connector is red; located at the left-hand side (driver's side) of the engine compartment and marked ANTI-LOCK TEST; Light Flash Technique 1. Note: If 12V test light is not available, the amber 4WABS warning light also flashes during this test. Locate test connector in the engine compartment and install 12V test light between Pins C and E. 2. With the ignition off, jumper Pin E to B. 3. Turn key to RUN position. 4. Remove jumper between Pins E and B after 5 seconds. 5. Count light flashes of test light or amber ABS warning light..." read more; miesk5 Note; for all Resistance tests, battery needs to be disconnected; remove Negative cable at battery. @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/255501_1

Post code (s) here.

....

Also, Try a Self Test for EEC IV Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded
Some basics;
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First

Post Code(s) here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
GL! 

Thanks!!

Yo Eddie,

Let us know how it goes.